Discussion
Genuine ebony or ebony substitute?Ta. Genuine, I'm pretty sure. I bought some supposed guitar fretboard blanks several years ago - too thin for good fretboards so I've used bits in various things. This was an offcut from one that I used for accent stripes in a bass I made.
I've got a big chunk of macassar ebony that I'm too scared to use,but it seems daft to have it sitting on a shelf. Time to get some practice in...
I've got a big chunk of macassar ebony that I'm too scared to use,but it seems daft to have it sitting on a shelf. Time to get some practice in...
How should I approach this?
I have ~30m of Oak boards that need a drip-stop and a recess for a LED light routed into it. The drip-stop I'll do on the tablesaw, but should I try and get as much material out of the recess with the tablesaw first and then tidy up with an 8mm straight router bit? Or will a 8mm bit last in Oak if I take several passes?
I have ~30m of Oak boards that need a drip-stop and a recess for a LED light routed into it. The drip-stop I'll do on the tablesaw, but should I try and get as much material out of the recess with the tablesaw first and then tidy up with an 8mm straight router bit? Or will a 8mm bit last in Oak if I take several passes?
Before I start a small woodworking project, I thought I'd ask for ideas and recommendations regarding construction methods and techniques!
I'm going to be making a notice board for my local Church but it will be made out of whatever I have lying around (and I have lots or 'stuff' but not everything!). My initial thoughts are to use 2 substantial uprights (probably approx 2 x 4"), the bottoms of which will be buried (after having been treated with creosote etc) to provide the support / stability, the tops then continuing up to make the sides of the board to give an overall height of around 5' (about 2' buried?). Top and bottom pieces will be similar timber probably but might be 1" rather than 2", possibly just 'let into' the sides, almost like a door lining sides would be let into the top. The rear will simply be boarded with some old tongue and groove boards I have but the inside will be lined with hardboard (to provide a smooth surface) which will then be painted (few coats) with magnetic blackboard paint. Posters etc can then be 'stuck' to the noticeboard with magnetic pins.
I have 2 sheets of 4mm toughened glass (approx 670 x 385mm) and my thoughts were to simply cut a 4mm channel down the centreline of some timber (to slot the glass in) which I'll use to provide the frame (possibly roof batten - 25 x 38mm give or take) and then do a half overlap joint on the corners (if that's even the right term?). Glass 'doors' hinged onto the side pieces with 'simple' hinges. Possibly a lock of some description to keep the 2 panels closed / secure
The timber will be 'smooth' finished not rough sawn (I can try out my new planer thicknesser!!) and then treated with exterior grade stain / varnish / whatever I've got left over from when I did my wooden garage doors etc (IIRC it has a 5 year 'life' on external wood).
Thoughts / comments / recommendations gratefully received.
I'm going to be making a notice board for my local Church but it will be made out of whatever I have lying around (and I have lots or 'stuff' but not everything!). My initial thoughts are to use 2 substantial uprights (probably approx 2 x 4"), the bottoms of which will be buried (after having been treated with creosote etc) to provide the support / stability, the tops then continuing up to make the sides of the board to give an overall height of around 5' (about 2' buried?). Top and bottom pieces will be similar timber probably but might be 1" rather than 2", possibly just 'let into' the sides, almost like a door lining sides would be let into the top. The rear will simply be boarded with some old tongue and groove boards I have but the inside will be lined with hardboard (to provide a smooth surface) which will then be painted (few coats) with magnetic blackboard paint. Posters etc can then be 'stuck' to the noticeboard with magnetic pins.
I have 2 sheets of 4mm toughened glass (approx 670 x 385mm) and my thoughts were to simply cut a 4mm channel down the centreline of some timber (to slot the glass in) which I'll use to provide the frame (possibly roof batten - 25 x 38mm give or take) and then do a half overlap joint on the corners (if that's even the right term?). Glass 'doors' hinged onto the side pieces with 'simple' hinges. Possibly a lock of some description to keep the 2 panels closed / secure
The timber will be 'smooth' finished not rough sawn (I can try out my new planer thicknesser!!) and then treated with exterior grade stain / varnish / whatever I've got left over from when I did my wooden garage doors etc (IIRC it has a 5 year 'life' on external wood).
Thoughts / comments / recommendations gratefully received.
Sporky said:
Sorry - I meant how long the boards of oak are, and used exactly the wrong word!
Just thinking about the relative ease of working with them on a tablesaw vs the other options.
Ah, you make a good point! The boards are 3m long which will be workable on a table saw but easier to do with a track saw.Just thinking about the relative ease of working with them on a tablesaw vs the other options.
Right, need some expert advice! I’ve just acquired a boat (17ft CJR fishing boat) and, to put it bluntly, it’s f
ked! I’ve had it out on the water, so it’s not a sieve, but it looks like a dogs dinner so I’m going to renovate it over winter.
There’s a wood line all around it that looks like it’s not been touched since the boat was made in the 70’s, save for a few self tappers in there to hold it together…! I’m jumping between renovating the wood or getting rubber strip to replace it, but I would prefer to keep the wood if possible as it’s a nice touch! I have a couple of questions;
1) any idea what wood this might be?
2) is it salvageable in its current state?
3) any tips for a nice finish?
ked! I’ve had it out on the water, so it’s not a sieve, but it looks like a dogs dinner so I’m going to renovate it over winter.There’s a wood line all around it that looks like it’s not been touched since the boat was made in the 70’s, save for a few self tappers in there to hold it together…! I’m jumping between renovating the wood or getting rubber strip to replace it, but I would prefer to keep the wood if possible as it’s a nice touch! I have a couple of questions;
1) any idea what wood this might be?
2) is it salvageable in its current state?
3) any tips for a nice finish?
Jonboy_t said:
Right, need some expert advice! I’ve just acquired a boat (17ft CJR fishing boat) and, to put it bluntly, it’s fked! I’ve had it out on the water, so it’s not a sieve, but it looks like a dogs dinner so I’m going to renovate it over winter.
There’s a wood line all around it that looks like it’s not been touched since the boat was made in the 70’s, save for a few self tappers in there to hold it together…! I’m jumping between renovating the wood or getting rubber strip to replace it, but I would prefer to keep the wood if possible as it’s a nice touch! I have a couple of questions;
1) any idea what wood this might be?
2) is it salvageable in its current state?
3) any tips for a nice finish?
I think its teak.ked! I’ve had it out on the water, so it’s not a sieve, but it looks like a dogs dinner so I’m going to renovate it over winter.There’s a wood line all around it that looks like it’s not been touched since the boat was made in the 70’s, save for a few self tappers in there to hold it together…! I’m jumping between renovating the wood or getting rubber strip to replace it, but I would prefer to keep the wood if possible as it’s a nice touch! I have a couple of questions;
1) any idea what wood this might be?
2) is it salvageable in its current state?
3) any tips for a nice finish?
Get some Wessex Chemicals two part teak cleaner and give it a go, follow intructions, dont be a t
t like me an ignore the advice to wear gloves.Huntsman said:
Jonboy_t said:
Right, need some expert advice! I’ve just acquired a boat (17ft CJR fishing boat) and, to put it bluntly, it’s fked! I’ve had it out on the water, so it’s not a sieve, but it looks like a dogs dinner so I’m going to renovate it over winter.
There’s a wood line all around it that looks like it’s not been touched since the boat was made in the 70’s, save for a few self tappers in there to hold it together…! I’m jumping between renovating the wood or getting rubber strip to replace it, but I would prefer to keep the wood if possible as it’s a nice touch! I have a couple of questions;
1) any idea what wood this might be?
2) is it salvageable in its current state?
3) any tips for a nice finish?
I think its teak.ked! I’ve had it out on the water, so it’s not a sieve, but it looks like a dogs dinner so I’m going to renovate it over winter.There’s a wood line all around it that looks like it’s not been touched since the boat was made in the 70’s, save for a few self tappers in there to hold it together…! I’m jumping between renovating the wood or getting rubber strip to replace it, but I would prefer to keep the wood if possible as it’s a nice touch! I have a couple of questions;
1) any idea what wood this might be?
2) is it salvageable in its current state?
3) any tips for a nice finish?
Get some Wessex Chemicals two part teak cleaner and give it a go, follow intructions, dont be a t
t like me an ignore the advice to wear gloves.There are a lot of places where it’s split or one layer has separated slightly from the others, I was wondering whether to try and get hold of some teak saw dust from somewhere and make a filler with epoxy or a glue of some sort. Get it properly stuck in the gaps and then sand it all back before finishing?
Jonboy_t said:
Brill, cheers. Figured it might be teak, but not one I’ve worked with before!
There are a lot of places where it’s split or one layer has separated slightly from the others, I was wondering whether to try and get hold of some teak saw dust from somewhere and make a filler with epoxy or a glue of some sort. Get it properly stuck in the gaps and then sand it all back before finishing?
I'll find you a scrap of teak to make the filler. Epoxy will work, but will fail due to UV long term.There are a lot of places where it’s split or one layer has separated slightly from the others, I was wondering whether to try and get hold of some teak saw dust from somewhere and make a filler with epoxy or a glue of some sort. Get it properly stuck in the gaps and then sand it all back before finishing?
loughran said:
Hi, I did use Textrol on my latest batch of oak garden benches. It went on much the same as any other oil finish and a month later looks much the same as any other oil finish. I kept one bench for myself this time so I'll be able to see how the Textrol finish turns out but my initial thought is that I wish I'd fumed my bench a bit before oiling to take the edge off the I'M A NEW BENCH ! look. A couple of hours in a tent with a saucer of 25% pure ammonia would have made all the difference.
I did read the advice that Textrol should not be used on new wood but the list of benefits were so great I thought I'd try it anyway.
It is unusual for an oil finish in as much as it doesn't develop a sheen. It's rather matt with a slightly agricultural feel.
I'm not sure why Seasonite should not be applied to oak, it appears to be formulated for softwoods only, perhaps it contains something that reacts with the tannins in oak.
Like many of the wood finish manufactures Owatrol offer a wide range of products, each specifically formulated to tackle a particular threat to my garden bench and it's tricky to know which one to use first.
https://owatrol-international.com/en/housing/exter...
Maybe D1 Pro is the way to go ?
Whilst you're deciding, have a read of this thread from over on UK Workshop. (I think it was posted here sometime earlier ?}
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/external-irok...
But to answer your question, It's much too soon for me to say whether Textrol is good enough. I'll let you know how things have gone when, at the end of September, I pack my bench away inside for the winter.
Till then...
Bench looks fantastic.I did read the advice that Textrol should not be used on new wood but the list of benefits were so great I thought I'd try it anyway.
It is unusual for an oil finish in as much as it doesn't develop a sheen. It's rather matt with a slightly agricultural feel.
I'm not sure why Seasonite should not be applied to oak, it appears to be formulated for softwoods only, perhaps it contains something that reacts with the tannins in oak.
Like many of the wood finish manufactures Owatrol offer a wide range of products, each specifically formulated to tackle a particular threat to my garden bench and it's tricky to know which one to use first.
https://owatrol-international.com/en/housing/exter...
Maybe D1 Pro is the way to go ?
Whilst you're deciding, have a read of this thread from over on UK Workshop. (I think it was posted here sometime earlier ?}
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/external-irok...
But to answer your question, It's much too soon for me to say whether Textrol is good enough. I'll let you know how things have gone when, at the end of September, I pack my bench away inside for the winter.
Till then...
The UK workshop guy did another multi year test with more options - https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/sadolin-ultra...
Huntsman said:
Jonboy_t said:
Brill, cheers. Figured it might be teak, but not one I’ve worked with before!
There are a lot of places where it’s split or one layer has separated slightly from the others, I was wondering whether to try and get hold of some teak saw dust from somewhere and make a filler with epoxy or a glue of some sort. Get it properly stuck in the gaps and then sand it all back before finishing?
I'll find you a scrap of teak to make the filler. Epoxy will work, but will fail due to UV long term.There are a lot of places where it’s split or one layer has separated slightly from the others, I was wondering whether to try and get hold of some teak saw dust from somewhere and make a filler with epoxy or a glue of some sort. Get it properly stuck in the gaps and then sand it all back before finishing?
If you had any scraps, I can turn them in to man glitter in the shed and I’d be forever grateful! PM me if you find any, will obviously cover anything you want for it.
If you're looking for something a bit different or a bargain then GandMtools are selling off loads of WW equipment cheap, they're also having an auction as part of a big clearout, go to their site for more details.
They're in Sussex, not sure what the deal will be on posting and nothing to do with me, just passing on the info.
They're in Sussex, not sure what the deal will be on posting and nothing to do with me, just passing on the info.
Quick Q:
I want to make a folding workbench for my garage. Plan to run a bit of 2x4 across a 2m span then hinge a worktop to it. I'd really like the hinge to be hidden, the workbench to fold upward and also not have a gap between workbench and wall when folded down. Is there such a hinge? Or smart way to do it?
I will have fold out legs also, to support the front.
Only thing I can think is to use a flush hinge to the wall from the top of the worktop.
I want to make a folding workbench for my garage. Plan to run a bit of 2x4 across a 2m span then hinge a worktop to it. I'd really like the hinge to be hidden, the workbench to fold upward and also not have a gap between workbench and wall when folded down. Is there such a hinge? Or smart way to do it?
I will have fold out legs also, to support the front.
Only thing I can think is to use a flush hinge to the wall from the top of the worktop.
illmonkey said:
Quick Q:
I want to make a folding workbench for my garage. Plan to run a bit of 2x4 across a 2m span then hinge a worktop to it. I'd really like the hinge to be hidden, the workbench to fold upward and also not have a gap between workbench and wall when folded down. Is there such a hinge? Or smart way to do it?
I will have fold out legs also, to support the front.
Only thing I can think is to use a flush hinge to the wall from the top of the worktop.
No bright ideas here, but if you have it folding down rather than up, then you don’t lose that useful shelf space above where the worktop will be when ‘deployed’I want to make a folding workbench for my garage. Plan to run a bit of 2x4 across a 2m span then hinge a worktop to it. I'd really like the hinge to be hidden, the workbench to fold upward and also not have a gap between workbench and wall when folded down. Is there such a hinge? Or smart way to do it?
I will have fold out legs also, to support the front.
Only thing I can think is to use a flush hinge to the wall from the top of the worktop.
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