Woodwork 101

Author
Discussion

Mr Whippy

29,042 posts

241 months

Saturday 16th March
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It looks like oak to me.

Assuming wood is dimensioned then chisels and router plane, or just chisels would be sufficient I think.

Austin_Metro

1,215 posts

48 months

Saturday 16th March
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Cheers. Those router planes aren’t cheap. Tempting to buy a router instead.

akirk

5,390 posts

114 months

Sunday 17th March
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I have just used those in a shoe rack…
Wood on workbench clamped down
Metal edge (track saw track) clamped on top
Ran router along and took off 2mm at a time…

Easy and six done within a few minutes…

Chisels will work but are hard to get accurate unless you are expert with them…

Stegel

1,953 posts

174 months

Monday 18th March
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I just wanted to express my admiration of this thread and the pieces of work posted. I tripped over this thread when it happened to sit alongside the “tools you wish etc.” and after flicking back a few pages, I read it start to finish.

Keen amateur woodworker, although I ought to work “lapsed” into that description. I hand built our previous kitchen in ash, including laminating up iroko worktops, and I also made the window frames for house extension number 1. Children and long working hours put paid to that sort of thing, and my bandsaw probably didn’t see action for over a decade. I retired at the end of 2023 and the completion of house extension number 3 (I had the windows made!) is in sight so hopefully some woodwork can be squeezed into other retirement plans. I’ve placed a few orders with Axminster, and taken the first steps into Festool tartdom with a plunge saw purchase.

Embarrassingly the most important lesson I’ve learned from this thread relates to my Elektra Beckum planer thicknesser. I purchased it around 1997 and I purchased the wheel kit at the same time. It was only spotting someone else’s EB planer in a workshop photo I realised I had attached the handle wrongly (it was attached beneath the fixed outfeed table) and all those years of struggling to move it while twisting my upper body out of the way made sense. I swapped the handle yesterday and did a few victory laps of the drive to celebrate the ease of movement.

Mr Whippy

29,042 posts

241 months

Wednesday 20th March
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akirk said:
I have just used those in a shoe rack…
Wood on workbench clamped down
Metal edge (track saw track) clamped on top
Ran router along and took off 2mm at a time…

Easy and six done within a few minutes…

Chisels will work but are hard to get accurate unless you are expert with them…
I’m thinking about a tool for rebates/grooves etc.

I’ve had mixed luck with power tools for finesse.

On fixed installations (ie, workshop bench tools) then yeah great, fixed cutting and move the work.
But moving the power tool over work can require so much setup and inprecision.

Then hand tools can really be great but as you say, they need practice to be good, and come with all the setup/sharpening/use idiosyncrasies.


I’m limited on space so for me it’s hand power tools, or hand tools…

I keep flip flopping from router/plough plane to a router and jig type setups.


I’ve got other hand tools and power tools and neither have been a panacea… I often think they’re best used together.

Ie, power planer for fast prep, and hand planer for finishing.

But that’s twice as expensive and even more space needed!


Sorry, had a bad day with my oak shelf projects. Every cut I make, or mm of material planed off, seems to end in movement.
Then when they’re near flat, the grain seems to run in both directions in places, with no way to get it flat without a fraction of a mm divots forming which only a cabinet scraper will fix… another tool I need… or ironically the brutish power planer which leaves it like glass… but also leaves tracks in the board at the edges of its cutter (oh for cambered blades!)

I swear I bought the two worst rough sawn oak boards possible hehe

Error_404_Username_not_found

2,202 posts

51 months

Thursday 21st March
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A new project is taking shape in the Shed of Wonders (House of Blunders).
A lady friend has asked for a pine blanket chest.
I have noticed that pine T&G flooring is pretty accurately machined and fits together well with minimal if any correction needed to flush the joints so here goes.
If I don't cock it up I'll show you who wins.
Might take a while because of my fixation with hand tool only working, and because I have other work to do resurrecting a dead engine in a fishing boat.

Retirement can be fun after all.

Error_404_Username_not_found

2,202 posts

51 months

Thursday 21st March
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By the way I have previously noted that the #80 cabinet scraper is worthless on softwood but I have to add a caveat to that opinion, following my recent learning on how to set it up and sharpen it.
It's still next to useless for broad surfacing on softwood but I must say it's great for cutting down knotwood on white pine, as long as you don't overdo it.
I don't know why it's called a scraper, it's actually a crossbreed species of half spokeshave and half plane.
Nice tool, I'm getting rather fond of it.

Edited by Error_404_Username_not_found on Thursday 21st March 22:39

gtidriver

3,344 posts

187 months

Thursday 21st March
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We needed a new knife rack so I made this recently, the magnets are set in the wood but im not happy with it, mk2 coming in a few weekends.

Edited by gtidriver on Thursday 21st March 23:52

Austin_Metro

1,215 posts

48 months

Thursday 21st March
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gtidriver said:
We needed a new knife rack so I made this recently, the magnets are set in the wood but im not happy with it, mk2 coming in a few weekends.

Edited by gtidriver on Thursday 21st March 23:52
I think that’s a good idea. Any way you could get some Uber powerful magnets and the put them in a piece of wood with a veneer covering them so they sat against wood alone? I’d quite like one of those!

gtidriver

3,344 posts

187 months

Friday 22nd March
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Austin_Metro said:
gtidriver said:
We needed a new knife rack so I made this recently, the magnets are set in the wood but im not happy with it, mk2 coming in a few weekends.

Edited by gtidriver on Thursday 21st March 23:52
I think that’s a good idea. Any way you could get some Uber powerful magnets and the put them in a piece of wood with a veneer covering them so they sat against wood alone? I’d quite like one of those!
This is it pre hung. Was going for a different look. More industrial maybe.

wolfracesonic

7,002 posts

127 months

Friday 22nd March
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Austin_Metro said:
gtidriver said:
We needed a new knife rack so I made this recently, the magnets are set in the wood but im not happy with it, mk2 coming in a few weekends.

Edited by gtidriver on Thursday 21st March 23:52
I think that’s a good idea. Any way you could get some Uber powerful magnets and the put them in a piece of wood with a veneer covering them so they sat against wood alone? I’d quite like one of those!
Or drill from the back with a flat bottomed Fortstener bit to within a few mm of the face, then epoxy in some neodymium magnets?

wolfracesonic

7,002 posts

127 months

Friday 22nd March
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Error_404_Username_not_found said:
A new project is taking shape in the Shed of Wonders (House of Blunders).
A lady friend has asked for a pine blanket chest.
I have noticed that pine T&G flooring is pretty accurately machined and fits together well with minimal if any correction needed to flush the joints so here goes.
If I don't cock it up I'll show you who wins.
Might take a while because of my fixation with hand tool only working, and because I have other work to do resurrecting a dead engine in a fishing boat.

Retirement can be fun after all.
Cock ups on this thread, are you sure?laugh Opportunities for correction, I think you’ll find.

Mr Whippy

29,042 posts

241 months

Friday 22nd March
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wolfracesonic said:
Austin_Metro said:
gtidriver said:
We needed a new knife rack so I made this recently, the magnets are set in the wood but im not happy with it, mk2 coming in a few weekends.

Edited by gtidriver on Thursday 21st March 23:52
I think that’s a good idea. Any way you could get some Uber powerful magnets and the put them in a piece of wood with a veneer covering them so they sat against wood alone? I’d quite like one of those!
Or drill from the back with a flat bottomed Fortstener bit to within a few mm of the face, then epoxy in some neodymium magnets?
Would need to test with heaviest knife vs magnet depth.

And be very accurate on depth.

Test pieces, calipers, and a pillar drill would make it a nice task.

But doing 20+ holes just right would be hard work… one wrong and it’s start over again biggrin


But yes that’s what I thought would be the way to go. Nothing like making a job harder for yourself hehe

Austin_Metro

1,215 posts

48 months

Friday 22nd March
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gtidriver said:
This is it pre hung. Was going for a different look. More industrial maybe.
I can see the attraction of the symmetry with that shot. My suggestion is based on my ‘ocd’ of not liking the clack of the knife clamping to the magnet.

Wolf races Forstener bit would work for me.

crmcatee

5,694 posts

227 months

Friday 22nd March
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Acquired a box of bits from a friends garage clear out (all of which will be handy I'm sure at some point in the next three decades).

Anyway; in the box was a marking gauge which had seen better days.



A very pleasant hour or so listening to Radio 4 in the shed whilst it was dismantled, cleaned up and oiled to become a thing of beauty again.





Error_404_Username_not_found

2,202 posts

51 months

Friday 22nd March
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crmcatee said:
This is indeed a thing of very considerable loveliness.
I have one rather similar, but not as pretty as yours.
Well done.

loughran

2,747 posts

136 months

Friday 22nd March
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Agreed, that's a great result. I have a pencil sized hole (9/32) drilled in one end of my marking gauge which I find makes it a really useful tool. It's not always you need a scribed line and a pencil line is less invasive.


crmcatee

5,694 posts

227 months

Friday 22nd March
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loughran said:
Agreed, that's a great result. I have a pencil sized hole (9/32) drilled in one end of my marking gauge which I find makes it a really useful tool. It's not always you need a scribed line and a pencil line is less invasive.

I may just do that this weekend; good tip.

EmBe

7,515 posts

269 months

Friday 22nd March
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crmcatee said:
loughran said:
Agreed, that's a great result. I have a pencil sized hole (9/32) drilled in one end of my marking gauge which I find makes it a really useful tool. It's not always you need a scribed line and a pencil line is less invasive.

I may just do that this weekend; good tip.
Me too, thanks loughran!

Error_404_Username_not_found

2,202 posts

51 months

Friday 22nd March
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I like that idea. Thanks.