Discussion
I've been in the shed again.
Going to visit whisky loving friends in Germany next week to thought I'd make them something that was useful. A whisky tray, large enough for four glen cairn glasses, a bottle of your favourite dram and a water supply.
Whilst I was there I knocked up a couple of other trays, one from pallets and the other from offcuts.
Going to visit whisky loving friends in Germany next week to thought I'd make them something that was useful. A whisky tray, large enough for four glen cairn glasses, a bottle of your favourite dram and a water supply.
Whilst I was there I knocked up a couple of other trays, one from pallets and the other from offcuts.
Drumroll said:
Never used winding sticks, have always just used the edge of a steel rule or a 1 metre spirit level. Is there any advantage in using winding sticks?
Not really, the contrasting colours make it a bit easier to see wind. I used to use a pair of spirit levels and they worked fine, it was more something to practice a bit of inlay work on. A little bump for this thread: A while back my Godson expressed an interest in making a few wood work projects, fueled by the fact he'll be doing woodwork at secondary school. So to help us in our escapades, we built this...
two layers of Wicke's finest 40mm worktops sandwiched back to back, topped off with some oil tempered hardboard and plenty of bench dog holes.
We fitted a couple of vintage Record vices sourced off eBay, proper Sheffield made ones dating from the 30s and 50s, not Chinesium made Irwin record ones.
Whilst on eBay browsing in the woodworking collectables section, it occurred to me I didn't have enough Sheffield made 19th century tenon saws, so...
The posters behind are off Sheffield city councils website and depict old Sheffield saw factories, funnily enough;
After a little bedside table, dining tray and TV table we progressed onto these...
a nest of tables, legs and aprons out of hard rock maple, the tops out of ambrosia maple, all finished with 2 coats of Osmo extra thin. The figuring on the ambrosia maple is caused by ambrosia beetles burrowing into the timber ( the little black holes mark where they enter) carrying a fungus on them which causes the streaks. I filled the holes with ebony wax so they would show up, rather than hide them.
I'm sort of proud to say no power tools where used in the making of this production, despite having table saws, mitre saws, biscuit jointers, power planes etc in my possession; hand cut mortice and tenons, all timber re-sawn and planed up by hand; a vintage Disston thumbhole rip saw and a Tyzack rip saw helped with the rough sizing of the timber and giving us a good cardiac workout. Bandsaw? who needs one!
All in all quite happy with them, plenty of room for improvement though. Not a stranger to woodwork being a builder but my fine woodworking at work doesn't get much more exotic than fitting architeves
Anyhow, I feel the urge to make a matching plant stand
two layers of Wicke's finest 40mm worktops sandwiched back to back, topped off with some oil tempered hardboard and plenty of bench dog holes.
We fitted a couple of vintage Record vices sourced off eBay, proper Sheffield made ones dating from the 30s and 50s, not Chinesium made Irwin record ones.
Whilst on eBay browsing in the woodworking collectables section, it occurred to me I didn't have enough Sheffield made 19th century tenon saws, so...
The posters behind are off Sheffield city councils website and depict old Sheffield saw factories, funnily enough;
After a little bedside table, dining tray and TV table we progressed onto these...
a nest of tables, legs and aprons out of hard rock maple, the tops out of ambrosia maple, all finished with 2 coats of Osmo extra thin. The figuring on the ambrosia maple is caused by ambrosia beetles burrowing into the timber ( the little black holes mark where they enter) carrying a fungus on them which causes the streaks. I filled the holes with ebony wax so they would show up, rather than hide them.
I'm sort of proud to say no power tools where used in the making of this production, despite having table saws, mitre saws, biscuit jointers, power planes etc in my possession; hand cut mortice and tenons, all timber re-sawn and planed up by hand; a vintage Disston thumbhole rip saw and a Tyzack rip saw helped with the rough sizing of the timber and giving us a good cardiac workout. Bandsaw? who needs one!
All in all quite happy with them, plenty of room for improvement though. Not a stranger to woodwork being a builder but my fine woodworking at work doesn't get much more exotic than fitting architeves
Anyhow, I feel the urge to make a matching plant stand
^Cheers! Hand re-sawing certainly is a workout, the ambrosia stuff I got off eBay came in at roughly 7x2’’ x 5ft and took around 20 minutes to saw in two so I could glue the halves together for the tops. The Disston D8 thumbhole is a real beast, it came from America via eBay and looking on the Disstonian website is probably around a hundred years old, rips way faster than even a brand new hardpoint saw, plus I bought some saw files and learnt how to sharpen my handsaws (not to saw doctor standards it must be said). btw sharpening a 6tpi rip saw is way easier than sharpening. 14tpi crosscut tenon saw! The Tyzack rip saw is around 70 years old and the factory where it was made is/was 5 minutes from where I live, there is a poster of it behind the tenon saws.
wolfracesonic said:
A little bump for this thread: A while back my Godson expressed an interest in making a few wood work projects, fueled by the fact he'll be doing woodwork at secondary school. So to help us in our escapades, we built this.
Great that you're both able and willing to pass on your skills [doffs hat] 
I thought that most of you might find this an interesting read;
https://www.thefenlandblackoakproject.co.uk/
wolfracesonic said:
The Disston D8 thumbhole is a real beast, it came from America via eBay and looking on the Disstonian website is probably around a hundred years old, rips way faster than even a brand new hardpoint saw, plus I bought some saw files and learnt how to sharpen my handsaws (not to saw doctor standards it must be said). btw sharpening a 6tpi rip saw is way easier than sharpening. 14tpi crosscut tenon saw! The Tyzack rip saw is around 70 years old and the factory where it was made is/was 5 minutes from where I live, there is a poster of it behind the tenon saws.
I have an old EC Atkins 4 1/2 tpi rip saw that is a bit of a beast and very nice to use, but when it comes to resawing the bandsaw wins every time. For joinery, I've moved mainly to Japanese saws. They can't be sharpened, but they last for ages and when they get blunt you just replace the whole blade.
I must admit a bandsaw would have been waaaaaay easier but to size up the timber I had, would have needed an 8’’ throat model at least which wouldn’t be cheap or easy to accommodate and seeing as I’m under no time constraints or commercial pressure hand sawing is fine. Unplugged woodworking!
wolfracesonic said:
I must admit a bandsaw would have been waaaaaay easier but to size up the timber I had, would have needed an 8’’ throat model at least which wouldn’t be cheap or easy to accommodate and seeing as I’m under no time constraints or commercial pressure hand sawing is fine. Unplugged woodworking!
I do like my bandsaw for resawing, but it doesn't have that sort of capacity, given my thoughts of just doing it by hand. I have a 6tpi ripsaw. ChrisnChris said:
Great that you're both able and willing to pass on your skills [doffs hat]
I thought that most of you might find this an interesting read;
https://www.thefenlandblackoakproject.co.uk/
I've been watching this with interest. Looking forward to taking a trip to Ely Cathedral to see (and hopefully touch) the table when it's finished. I thought that most of you might find this an interesting read;
https://www.thefenlandblackoakproject.co.uk/
https://www.instagram.com/fenlandblackoakproject/?...
Flibble said:
I do like my bandsaw for resawing, but it doesn't have that sort of capacity, given my thoughts of just doing it by hand. I have a 6tpi ripsaw.
Go for it! It’s very satisfying, as long as your saw is sharp. Sharpening a big rip saw is as simple as saw sharpening gets; I bought one of these 5_7tpi saw file and there are plenty of sharpening guides online.
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