Discussion
marksx said:
Seefive - what was the primer you used?
I tried making my own from oil based primer thinned down with white spirit. Didn't work. After two coats the routed edges of my cupboard doors still roughed up when I put the top coat on.
Cheapest MDF primer in B&Q, I think in this case Leyland Trade quick dry.I tried making my own from oil based primer thinned down with white spirit. Didn't work. After two coats the routed edges of my cupboard doors still roughed up when I put the top coat on.
paulrockliffe said:
singlecoil said:
Last time I bought it (as part of a larger order) it was £48 a sheet including VAT.
If you don't paint it you have to do something about the exposed edges if there are any.
OK, still sounds a bit expensive to me. I've covered the edges in a hard wood frame whenever I've used it.If you don't paint it you have to do something about the exposed edges if there are any.
singlecoil said:
paulrockliffe said:
singlecoil said:
Last time I bought it (as part of a larger order) it was £48 a sheet including VAT.
If you don't paint it you have to do something about the exposed edges if there are any.
OK, still sounds a bit expensive to me. I've covered the edges in a hard wood frame whenever I've used it.If you don't paint it you have to do something about the exposed edges if there are any.
What's the best way of doing hardwood edging to MDF/Ply?
Videos on you tube suggest cutting the strip of hardwood with a table saw, putting that strip through a planing machine, gluing it on, then trimming that down with a router. I guess you could skip the first two steps/machines by buying the strips pre made but I can't see a way around the router step as you don't want to damage the board?
Videos on you tube suggest cutting the strip of hardwood with a table saw, putting that strip through a planing machine, gluing it on, then trimming that down with a router. I guess you could skip the first two steps/machines by buying the strips pre made but I can't see a way around the router step as you don't want to damage the board?
snowman99 said:
What's the best way of doing hardwood edging to MDF/Ply?
Videos on you tube suggest cutting the strip of hardwood with a table saw, putting that strip through a planing machine, gluing it on, then trimming that down with a router. I guess you could skip the first two steps/machines by buying the strips pre made but I can't see a way around the router step as you don't want to damage the board?
If you can saw it cleanly enough you won''t need to plane it. Best way to achieve that is with a track saw and a fine blade. If you don't fancy the router (I wouldn't either) you could use hand tools such as a plane, but you will need to ensure the blade doesn't follow the grain of the edging end end up digging in.Videos on you tube suggest cutting the strip of hardwood with a table saw, putting that strip through a planing machine, gluing it on, then trimming that down with a router. I guess you could skip the first two steps/machines by buying the strips pre made but I can't see a way around the router step as you don't want to damage the board?
Best way of trimming the edging is with a lipping planer, but they are quite expensive.
snowman99 said:
I can't see a way around the router step as you don't want to damage the board?
Change your design. Have the lip thicker than the board and let it hang under or above. Above to stop things falling off the shelf, below to hide an LED strip or to add depth to the shelf.You could add a fence to the board to run a plane against to keep the blade away from the MDF part, keep it a smidge away and then clean it up with sand paper to get the last bit.
Or router table and and an offset fence can work.
If you're just wanting to cover the raw edge of MDF or plywood to give a better finish for painting, you could use iron on edging. Use the real wood version rather than the plastic type, don't use the steam setting on the iron* and use an offcut to rub the edging flat as you apply it. Trim with a Stanley blade and sand,
- Probably best to use an old iron, one with a flat sole works best.
loughran said:
It was Medite, not Caber, that I remember using, thanks. Very high quality MDF.
I was planning to use the standard DIY shed stuff (or from Laver Online, which someone mentioned earlier), I wasn’t aware there was much better stuff so I will have a look - thanks guysEdited to add - just seen that Laver Online sell the Medite stuff which is what I had been looking at - splendid
Edited by Mr.Grooler on Tuesday 7th January 21:27
Mr.Grooler said:
loughran said:
It was Medite, not Caber, that I remember using, thanks. Very high quality MDF.
I was planning to use the standard DIY shed stuff (or from Laver Online, which someone mentioned earlier), I wasn’t aware there was much better stuff so I will have a look - thanks guysWozy68 said:
Just remember ..... if your going to paint the MDF and especially so if your going to seal it with some kind of a clear lacquer..... then under no circumstances use MDF from a builders merchants...... all MDFs are not the same quality and builders quality is plain awful .... look for manufacturers like Medite which is a top notch brand and worth the extra expense.
Also use a high build MDF primer especially for the edges.
You're along the right lines here, but I would hazard a guess that at the moment in the UK over 95% of the MDF available is from one of Caber (Norbord), Medite or Kronospan - all UK manufactured. The issue is, the overwhelming majority of this will be lightweight or 'trade' (as it was rebranded around 10 years ago), this a lower density panel than the traditional standard grade. Approximate 'target' densities are:Also use a high build MDF primer especially for the edges.
Standard 700kg/m3
Trade 550kg/m3
Basically, the lower the density, the less wood in the panel so the more paint is required to get a finish, the lower density panel absorbs can suck up paint like a sponge compared to the denser material.
Most local timber merchants, the big DIY sheds and builders merchants will offer the LW/trade as their only choice without making it obvious, if you find a specialist panel supplier and ask specifically for full density standard grade this should be better for painting. Much the same applies to MR MDF, this used to be denser but recently the majority of this moved over to LW as well.
If you're working in 18mm then the specialist panel suppliers will probably have deep router grade, this is a denser panel and will take paint very nicely.
I don't know a lot about woodworking itself but I am well placed to answer any questions on panels if anybody has any.
That's why I find spray primer useful for cheap MDF - it doesn't soak in as it's practically dry on contact with the material - 2 or 3 coats of standard spray primer and even cheap MDF takes paint well.
The builders left a couple of bare MDF doors on our loft conversion recently and I had a couple of tins of primer left from renovating an old cast iron bath, thought I'd use them up on the doors and they worked a treat. Rub down the edges after the first coat and you're all good.
The builders left a couple of bare MDF doors on our loft conversion recently and I had a couple of tins of primer left from renovating an old cast iron bath, thought I'd use them up on the doors and they worked a treat. Rub down the edges after the first coat and you're all good.
Following on from what MB says above, the way to get good results with MDF is not to use water based paint. Large firms paint MDF with two pack paint using techniques and equipment such as would be found in the car industry.
It wouldn't be feasible for a small manufacturer due to needing water-curtain spray booths and air-fed masks etc for the operators.
The results are much tougher than conventional paints but if there is some subsequent damage it's difficult to repair it invisibly.
It wouldn't be feasible for a small manufacturer due to needing water-curtain spray booths and air-fed masks etc for the operators.
The results are much tougher than conventional paints but if there is some subsequent damage it's difficult to repair it invisibly.
marksx said:
Just general primer or MDF specific?
Just this: https://www.toolstation.com/industrial-spray-prime... - it's acetone based so dries very quickly, meaning it doesn't get chance to soak into the MDF.Mark Benson said:
Just this: https://www.toolstation.com/industrial-spray-prime... - it's acetone based so dries very quickly, meaning it doesn't get chance to soak into the MDF.
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