Discussion
Brass lidded box v2.0. A slightly different look to the brass from the last one I did, quite happy with it tbh: not so happy with the finish on the timber again, it’s more of a greenish hue than the electric blue of the lid. Annoying as the stain is the vivid blue/turquoise I want when I pour it into a container. If I do another I may a more blonde timber.
I'd be more than happy with that, you are the master of patination. 
The panel looks beautiful, are you willing to divulge the recipe for this one ?
Perhaps bleaching the hell out of the timber beforehand will give the vibrant colour you're after but to be honest it looks pretty bright to me.
The panel looks beautiful, are you willing to divulge the recipe for this one ?Perhaps bleaching the hell out of the timber beforehand will give the vibrant colour you're after but to be honest it looks pretty bright to me.
Paint shops can sell you tiny bottles of spirit based tint pigments they use to produce paint colours on the spot, adding the pigments to base colour paint.
Their colour charts give them the "recipes".
I wonder if they would help you achieve the colours you're looking for.
Just a thought.
Their colour charts give them the "recipes".
I wonder if they would help you achieve the colours you're looking for.
Just a thought.
I’ve got the wood dye, it’s just that it goes a different colour when it hits the timber: if I do another I may use something like maple or bleach the timber as Loughran suggests.
I would like to claim I’m some sort of patination wizard but I’m not, however this guy is!
An excellent guide to faffing with metals. A lot of the recipes use readily available (if scary)chemicals, though the proprietary mixes are a bit spendy and not that easy to get hold of. Re. the chemicals, if you do have a go don’t scrimp on the ppe, some are really nasty, especially the ammonias. Non vented goggles and a mask capable of dealing with gases and vapours are must, as are acid safe rubber gloves. You’ll probably end up on a watch list at GCHQ as well when you start ordering them
I would like to claim I’m some sort of patination wizard but I’m not, however this guy is!
An excellent guide to faffing with metals. A lot of the recipes use readily available (if scary)chemicals, though the proprietary mixes are a bit spendy and not that easy to get hold of. Re. the chemicals, if you do have a go don’t scrimp on the ppe, some are really nasty, especially the ammonias. Non vented goggles and a mask capable of dealing with gases and vapours are must, as are acid safe rubber gloves. You’ll probably end up on a watch list at GCHQ as well when you start ordering them
My latest playing with wood…
A game of balance, you place the cubes on your side, aiming to get as many on as possible, and has far towards the ends as possible… the twist is that you pick a random cube each time and there are 7 different woods, all different weights,..
main item in steamed pear (rocking base) and ripple maple top plank
cubes are:
Lignum Vitae
Cocobolo
Red Mallee
Flame Birch
Yew
Oak
spalted sycamore
main item pinned together with brass rod ‘dowels’
A game of balance, you place the cubes on your side, aiming to get as many on as possible, and has far towards the ends as possible… the twist is that you pick a random cube each time and there are 7 different woods, all different weights,..
main item in steamed pear (rocking base) and ripple maple top plank
cubes are:
Lignum Vitae
Cocobolo
Red Mallee
Flame Birch
Yew
Oak
spalted sycamore
main item pinned together with brass rod ‘dowels’
Well, no less than a year after I started it, I decided to call it quits on D's chair. It would benefit from a respray in places, but the longer it remains in the workshop, the bigger the chance of more damage.
A few months ago, it fell off the bench and it ended up with a massive crack across the back. Ended up having to remove the original handle to repair the crack as well as having to put a screw through the front to re-attach to the uprights.
For some daft reason, I decided to brush paint the white parts and red spray paint for the red sections. This was a stupid idea. Overspray and masking meant its had numerous touch ups and been repainted several times.
However, I attached the decals this morning and gave it a polish. It looks ok from a distance and certainly solid.
Took a snap with the Batman chair (posted further up in the thread) and they both look good. My BIL is hinting at something similar for his daughter. However, I have a TV unit to finish first (Also mentioned further up in the thread)
The number, name, arsenal crest and fly emirates are all decals. Did investigate templates and spray paint, but that got moved into the too hard box. the decals alone were about £60 and so pleased I had several copies printed up.
Still some great items in here including the blue/green storage box.
A few months ago, it fell off the bench and it ended up with a massive crack across the back. Ended up having to remove the original handle to repair the crack as well as having to put a screw through the front to re-attach to the uprights.
For some daft reason, I decided to brush paint the white parts and red spray paint for the red sections. This was a stupid idea. Overspray and masking meant its had numerous touch ups and been repainted several times.
However, I attached the decals this morning and gave it a polish. It looks ok from a distance and certainly solid.
Took a snap with the Batman chair (posted further up in the thread) and they both look good. My BIL is hinting at something similar for his daughter. However, I have a TV unit to finish first (Also mentioned further up in the thread)
The number, name, arsenal crest and fly emirates are all decals. Did investigate templates and spray paint, but that got moved into the too hard box. the decals alone were about £60 and so pleased I had several copies printed up.
Still some great items in here including the blue/green storage box.
2nd week of my Japanese joinery course.
Getting the sawing line to go where it’s meant to after the initial cut is harder than I thought.
Chiseling is harder than it looks on videos.
Next week is refining this so it meets up with its partner
Enjoying it, but I have realised I seem to be more about speed than precision. Which probably isn’t the Japanese philosophy.
Getting the sawing line to go where it’s meant to after the initial cut is harder than I thought.
Chiseling is harder than it looks on videos.
Next week is refining this so it meets up with its partner
Enjoying it, but I have realised I seem to be more about speed than precision. Which probably isn’t the Japanese philosophy.
Austin_Metro said:
Baker St- I think those chairs are great. My boys would love them, bar the arsenal colours.
Gresham St - is your carpentry thing in London? There was one I saw near Waterloo, but was in the more basic end, which is nearer my standard.
Yep, in Southwark. There’s a few people on the course that have done other similar things, a few speak highly of the London School of Furniture which have a good amount of varied courses. Gresham St - is your carpentry thing in London? There was one I saw near Waterloo, but was in the more basic end, which is nearer my standard.
akirk said:
My latest playing with wood…
A game of balance, you place the cubes on your side, aiming to get as many on as possible, and has far towards the ends as possible… the twist is that you pick a random cube each time and there are 7 different woods, all different weights,..
main item in steamed pear (rocking base) and ripple maple top plank
cubes are:
Lignum Vitae
Cocobolo
Red Mallee
Flame Birch
Yew
Oak
spalted sycamore
main item pinned together with brass rod ‘dowels’
Brilliant, how interesting to have cubes of such diverse timbers and weigh them against each other. It's always surprising how heavy the exotics are when compared to softwoods and I'm always surprised how little yew weighs considering its strength and qualities.A game of balance, you place the cubes on your side, aiming to get as many on as possible, and has far towards the ends as possible… the twist is that you pick a random cube each time and there are 7 different woods, all different weights,..
main item in steamed pear (rocking base) and ripple maple top plank
cubes are:
Lignum Vitae
Cocobolo
Red Mallee
Flame Birch
Yew
Oak
spalted sycamore
main item pinned together with brass rod ‘dowels’
Greshamst said:
Getting the sawing line to go where it’s meant to after the initial cut is harder than I thought.
Chiseling is harder than it looks on videos.
Chiseling is harder than it looks on videos.
That looks like half of a remarkable joint ! I can well imagine the course is hard going at times.... makes me want to sign up, my chiseling and sawing skills would definitely benefit.Meanwhile, life on Guernsey is good. All the furniture is in and painting has commenced. (fortunately leaving me at a loose end for now.) We've been on the island for around ten days or so and the installation has been reasonably straight forward... which is a huge relief. Nothing forgotten and everything fits. We are, however, waiting for delivery of the fridge/freezer, dishwasher, range cooker, tap, hot tap and extractor, which will, hopefully, be here by the end of the week. Then the worktops can be templated.
The pocket doors work well but only after a full day set aside for adjustment and coaxing. Each hinge has 3 adjustments and each door has three hinges. Then each scissor action mechanism has eight adjustments including the rate of retraction and the rate of closing. So then each door can be adjusted in 17 different ways... and there are 4 doors.
There will be a point when each door is balanced to perfection and everything is locked off.
That moment can not come soon enough.
Here a door turned to allow access to the mechanism and adjustment.
And how the fridge run looks in primer and without the fridge.
Lots more still to do. Tomorrow I need to assemble the kitchen table and unfortunately I can see there's been some damage in transit.
loughran said:
akirk said:
My latest playing with wood…
A game of balance, you place the cubes on your side, aiming to get as many on as possible, and has far towards the ends as possible… the twist is that you pick a random cube each time and there are 7 different woods, all different weights,..
main item in steamed pear (rocking base) and ripple maple top plank
cubes are:
Lignum Vitae
Cocobolo
Red Mallee
Flame Birch
Yew
Oak
spalted sycamore
main item pinned together with brass rod ‘dowels’
Brilliant, how interesting to have cubes of such diverse timbers and weigh them against each other. It's always surprising how heavy the exotics are when compared to softwoods and I'm always surprised how little yew weighs considering its strength and qualities.A game of balance, you place the cubes on your side, aiming to get as many on as possible, and has far towards the ends as possible… the twist is that you pick a random cube each time and there are 7 different woods, all different weights,..
main item in steamed pear (rocking base) and ripple maple top plank
cubes are:
Lignum Vitae
Cocobolo
Red Mallee
Flame Birch
Yew
Oak
spalted sycamore
main item pinned together with brass rod ‘dowels’
It has proved so popular and addictive here that the decision was made to produce it (still by hand) commercially as a very high quality niche game… Now has formalised rules, a trademarked name and a website! ( Click to view) The cost of the woods is not cheap, but we already have the first 4 customers!
Yep, the walnut table, A bit of a bash on the top edge which is small but looks terrible. The tabletop is/was perfect so this sticks out like a sore thumb.
I'm working in a Georgian villa and the kitchen is a North facing room with 3.5 meter ceilings and one huge sash window taking up most of one wall. To say the light is critical is an understatement.
The client looks a bit glum but there's an old trick I can try. Take one very hot electric iron and turn the corner of a freshly laundered white cotton teeshirt into a small nose. Dip the nose in water, lay it over the dint and briefly steam with the tip of the hot iron. Repeat many times and if the damage is a bruise and not a cut the fibres will swell back to how they were.
Well that's the theory and sometimes it works... I'll have a go when nobody's watching.
I'm working in a Georgian villa and the kitchen is a North facing room with 3.5 meter ceilings and one huge sash window taking up most of one wall. To say the light is critical is an understatement.
The client looks a bit glum but there's an old trick I can try. Take one very hot electric iron and turn the corner of a freshly laundered white cotton teeshirt into a small nose. Dip the nose in water, lay it over the dint and briefly steam with the tip of the hot iron. Repeat many times and if the damage is a bruise and not a cut the fibres will swell back to how they were.
Well that's the theory and sometimes it works... I'll have a go when nobody's watching.
loughran said:
Yep, the walnut table, A bit of a bash on the top edge which is small but looks terrible. The tabletop is/was perfect so this sticks out like a sore thumb.
I'm working in a Georgian villa and the kitchen is a North facing room with 3.5 meter ceilings and one huge sash window taking up most of one wall. To say the light is critical is an understatement.
The client looks a bit glum but there's an old trick I can try. Take one very hot electric iron and turn the corner of a freshly laundered white cotton teeshirt into a small nose. Dip the nose in water, lay it over the dint and briefly steam with the tip of the hot iron. Repeat many times and if the damage is a bruise and not a cut the fibres will swell back to how they were.
That is insanely interesting, crazy what you can read on Pistonheads. Hope it works out for you!
Well that's the theory and sometimes it works... I'll have a go when nobody's watching.
I'm working in a Georgian villa and the kitchen is a North facing room with 3.5 meter ceilings and one huge sash window taking up most of one wall. To say the light is critical is an understatement.
The client looks a bit glum but there's an old trick I can try. Take one very hot electric iron and turn the corner of a freshly laundered white cotton teeshirt into a small nose. Dip the nose in water, lay it over the dint and briefly steam with the tip of the hot iron. Repeat many times and if the damage is a bruise and not a cut the fibres will swell back to how they were.
That is insanely interesting, crazy what you can read on Pistonheads. Hope it works out for you!
Well that's the theory and sometimes it works... I'll have a go when nobody's watching.
loughran said:
That looks like half of a remarkable joint ! I can well imagine the course is hard going at times.... makes me want to sign up, my chiseling and sawing skills would definitely benefit.Meanwhile, life on Guernsey is good. All the furniture is in and painting has commenced. (fortunately leaving me at a loose end for now.) We've been on the island for around ten days or so and the installation has been reasonably straight forward... which is a huge relief. Nothing forgotten and everything fits. We are, however, waiting for delivery of the fridge/freezer, dishwasher, range cooker, tap, hot tap and extractor, which will, hopefully, be here by the end of the week. Then the worktops can be templated.
The pocket doors work well but only after a full day set aside for adjustment and coaxing. Each hinge has 3 adjustments and each door has three hinges. Then each scissor action mechanism has eight adjustments including the rate of retraction and the rate of closing. So then each door can be adjusted in 17 different ways... and there are 4 doors.
There will be a point when each door is balanced to perfection and everything is locked off.
That moment can not come soon enough.
Here a door turned to allow access to the mechanism and adjustment.
And how the fridge run looks in primer and without the fridge.
Lots more still to do. Tomorrow I need to assemble the kitchen table and unfortunately I can see there's been some damage in transit.
Good evening RS, the mechanisms are made by the Swiss company Hawa, I'm using their Concepta 25 range.
I've designed it so the scissor actions are fitted to panels that sit inside the cabinet and are moveable/removable even with the door attached so I can get at all the various adjustments.
Here's a panel ready for fitting. It's a bit difficult to see but there's a walnut battern in the bottom corner of the cabinet and one at the top to fix the panel to, forming a pocket for the door to run into. There's an installation app. You feed in the width x depth x thickness and weight of the door and the amount you want the door to retract and the app tells you how long to trim each element and where to mount everything on the panel.
Then the the door is hung on the mechanism and it opens and closes like a normal cabinet door.
When the door is opened it can then be pushed back into the pocket which is around 55mm wide. The door is drawn back into the pocket by a sprung reel and there are dampers to arrest its short journey.
The table repair went well and everyone is happy.
It's been a lovely job to make and install. Some cabinets grey, some black and some white, all lined in walnut to match the kitchen table. The granite is going to be (tastefully) spectacular and will pull everything together but that will come in time. We leave tomorrow and look forward to flying back at the end of the month to dot the eyes and cross the tees.
I've designed it so the scissor actions are fitted to panels that sit inside the cabinet and are moveable/removable even with the door attached so I can get at all the various adjustments.
Here's a panel ready for fitting. It's a bit difficult to see but there's a walnut battern in the bottom corner of the cabinet and one at the top to fix the panel to, forming a pocket for the door to run into. There's an installation app. You feed in the width x depth x thickness and weight of the door and the amount you want the door to retract and the app tells you how long to trim each element and where to mount everything on the panel.
Then the the door is hung on the mechanism and it opens and closes like a normal cabinet door.
When the door is opened it can then be pushed back into the pocket which is around 55mm wide. The door is drawn back into the pocket by a sprung reel and there are dampers to arrest its short journey.
The table repair went well and everyone is happy.
It's been a lovely job to make and install. Some cabinets grey, some black and some white, all lined in walnut to match the kitchen table. The granite is going to be (tastefully) spectacular and will pull everything together but that will come in time. We leave tomorrow and look forward to flying back at the end of the month to dot the eyes and cross the tees.
Edited by loughran on Monday 29th April 06:48
I figure you lot might be able to help with my lil issue. I've put panelling in my porch (fancy I know...), it's primed MDF and then I (stupidly) bought vinyl mat paint from Dulux trade. 3 coats and the finish is good, but everything marks it. It's a dark blue, if it's of any value.
Clearly I've used the wrong paint, but they were shut when I realised and I'd paid for it, so was a good 'base'. Whats best though, get some of the same colour in eggshell, diamond mat, or do a fresh coat and put a clearcoat on it?
Also, a small annoyance is the texture is very rough, I can live with that, but wondering why. I used a short pile roller, but it's rougher than it'd be on a wall.
Kinda off topic, but figure ya'll make stuff with MDF that's probably painted! TIA
Clearly I've used the wrong paint, but they were shut when I realised and I'd paid for it, so was a good 'base'. Whats best though, get some of the same colour in eggshell, diamond mat, or do a fresh coat and put a clearcoat on it?
Also, a small annoyance is the texture is very rough, I can live with that, but wondering why. I used a short pile roller, but it's rougher than it'd be on a wall.
Kinda off topic, but figure ya'll make stuff with MDF that's probably painted! TIA
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