Whirlpool washing machine recall 2019

[vaud]

guitarcarfanatic said:

I don't get why peripherial functions like this (door lock switch) aren't scaled down into super low current/12v. Use the full fat 240v for the element and motor - run everything else off of low power.

At a wild guess, cost. Everything you can shave off a design increases profit as it impacts throughout the supply chain and repair cycle. Fewer parts and simpler design has a multiplying effect?

[Zirconia]

vaud said:

guitarcarfanatic said:

I don't get why peripherial functions like this (door lock switch) aren't scaled down into super low current/12v. Use the full fat 240v for the element and motor - run everything else off of low power.

At a wild guess, cost. Everything you can shave off a design increases profit as it impacts throughout the supply chain and repair cycle. Fewer parts and simpler design has a multiplying effect?

My dryer that was in the previous recall, the issue should never have been passed by an apprentice let alone a company with qualified people in it. The heating element was all part of a cheap build, easy to make stamped parts that would go quickly together with no thought of the issues with fluff. The element issue was obvious to see as a potential failure. I saw it before the recall and threw it away.

[motco]

chrisch77 said:

motco said:

chrisch77 said:

I was interested to see the recall in the press today, as our Whirlpool washer suffered exactly this problem in October 2018. To Whirlpool’s credit they investigated our machine at the time and then replaced it.

For reference of everyone else, the only symptom we were aware of was an intermittent door lock fault code coming up - upon investigation by our independent repair man the connector onto the door lock module was melted and scorched. If you get a door lock error then stop using the machine immediately!

Thank you for that tip chrisch77! Did your man say how a door lock is apparently carrying the current for the heater element? Seems odd to me.

The door lock has two connector pins to operate the locking mechanism, and two more carrying power to an interlock switch inside the lock, such that if the door is open the power circuit is broken.

The door lock error code on our machine was F06 FYI. Picture of the offending lock mechanism and what was left of the connector below.

Again chrisch77, many thanks.

[Oakey]

We have one of the models affected but our door lock is the wrong colour so apparently not affected. Not sure that fills me with confidence tbh.

Just to add to this,whether you get a replacement or not seems to hinge on the consumer eyeballing the correct colour of door lock, your options are a) off white or slightly more off white b) off white, maybe grey, c) black. If you pick the 'incorrect' colour they'll tell you you're not affected and you can't put your details through the system again as they've already been registered.

Here are your options;



Here's ours;

Edited by Oakey on Wednesday 18th December 14:57

[oblio]

We had to replace our drier when there was an issue with them a while back. Then we had to have an engineer out to do a mod on a new drier we bought (we moved house and switched from a vented to a condenser). Now they have an issue with WM's...

Do other makes/brands have similar issues?

We decided that we'll not be buying from the Whirlpool Group again given their issues.

[motco]

Well I didn't get that choice just now, I was able to input all twelve digits of my serial number though, and I received this response:

[Gareth79]

guitarcarfanatic said:

I don't get why peripherial functions like this (door lock switch) aren't scaled down into super low current/12v. Use the full fat 240v for the element and motor - run everything else off of low power.

They are designed fail-safe and operate independently of the control system, ie. to try and make it impossible to open the machine when the drum is still spinning regardless of any sort of fault. In most, there is a heated wax capsule or element which cools and retracts the locking catch/pin after a preset time - this is why the door only unlocks after a minute or so.

Given the machine is safe to operate at a low wash temperature, I guess there's some sort of thermal runaway?

[Oakey]

motco said:

Well I didn't get that choice just now, I was able to input all twelve digits of my serial number though, and I received this response:

Almost makes you think they're just winging it! I've seen a number of replies on Twitter from Whirlpool telling people who've asked their machine isn't affected too.

Has anyone checked theirs and actually been told it does need replacing?

[motco]

Oakey said:

We have one of the models affected but our door lock is the wrong colour so apparently not affected. Not sure that fills me with confidence tbh.

Just to add to this,whether you get a replacement or not seems to hinge on the consumer eyeballing the correct colour of door lock, your options are a) off white or slightly more off white b) off white, maybe grey, c) black. If you pick the 'incorrect' colour they'll tell you you're not affected and you can't put your details through the system again as they've already been registered.

Here are your options;



Here's ours;

Edited by Oakey on Wednesday 18th December 14:57

This is mine

[Oakey]

That looks like the one in the first photo. In my photo, mine looks like the one in the same pic but to the right of yours yet when I completed the online form and went down to check in the gloom it looked like the grey one so that's what I chose.

What model is yours?

[motco]

Oakey said:

That looks like the one in the first photo. In my photo, mine looks like the one in the same pic but to the right of yours yet when I completed the online form and went down to check in the gloom it looked like the grey one so that's what I chose.

What model is yours?

WMFUG 842P UK.M bought from Curry's in September 2018.

[chrisch77]

motco said:

This is mine

Whilst I don't know what the 'correct' answer is to flag the affected machines, I would say that your door lock module is the same slightly translucent off white plastic that mine was (and had the melt down).

[motco]

chrisch77 said:

motco said:

This is mine

Whilst I don't know what the 'correct' answer is to flag the affected machines, I would say that your door lock module is the same slightly translucent off white plastic that mine was (and had the melt down).

It does look similar I must say. However the connector may be the suspect part and as I was not asked to identify the colour of the visible part, I hope the serial number offered sufficient provenance to eliminate specific machine.

[SeeFive]

chrisch77 said:

motco said:

This is mine

Whilst I don't know what the 'correct' answer is to flag the affected machines, I would say that your door lock module is the same slightly translucent off white plastic that mine was (and had the melt down).

Website still down and please call later from the telephone number they have provided.

My model number is included in the list and has the same colour lock at the pic above.

I am just about to do some washing, so I will call the fire brigade first.

ETA: website is now working. Just got on, entered all the details required and my machine is duff. Now the long wait while we wash at 20 degrees I guess.

Edited by SeeFive on Wednesday 18th December 18:55

[S1KRR]

Oakey said:

Almost makes you think they're just winging it! I've seen a number of replies on Twitter from Whirlpool telling people who've asked their machine isn't affected too.

Has anyone checked theirs and actually been told it does need replacing?

Yup

[motco]

S1KRR said:

Oakey said:

Almost makes you think they're just winging it! I've seen a number of replies on Twitter from Whirlpool telling people who've asked their machine isn't affected too.

Has anyone checked theirs and actually been told it does need replacing?

Yup

Sorry to hear that. What colour is your lock?

[dhutch]

Heard this on the radio, not good good news for the company.

I could also most understand the drier issue as lint on the heating element must be a reasonable engineering challenge, but this should be something which is just designed, made, fitted, works. Obviously if its a Indesit/Hotpoint design (acquired 2014) then that is a biter pill for the Whirlpool brand. Obviously also the same brand behind the Fridge which started Grenfel.

Fortunately we have a 'Zanussi by Electrolux' but that is as much luck as judgment, it was just going for the right price as a 1yo ebay special!


Daniel

[eliot]

Gareth79 said:

They are designed fail-safe and operate independently of the control system, ie. to try and make it impossible to open the machine when the drum is still spinning regardless of any sort of fault. In most, there is a heated wax capsule or element which cools and retracts the locking catch/pin after a preset time - this is why the door only unlocks after a minute or so.

Given the machine is safe to operate at a low wash temperature, I guess there's some sort of thermal runaway?

From what i can tell from this thread - there are an additional set of contacts inside the lock that disconnect the power to the washer/heater for safety.
I assume the contacts are not sufficiently beefy enough to carry the current of the washer, especially when the heating element is on and subsequently melt the housing.
So the workaround is to run it cold only, to avoid the heater and reduce the current load on the switch contacts.
I’m sure there’s a red-neck way of simply bridging those wires to remove all the load from the contacts and get your washer working again in the meantime

edit: looking at the photo above, looks like it’s the pins on the connector that are getting hot rather than the switch contacts inside the lock. I personally would just self repair it - but i’m old school old fart who fixes things wherever possible

Edited by eliot on Thursday 19th December 12:46

[dhutch]

eliot said:

From what i can tell from this thread - there are an additional set of contacts inside the lock that disconnect the power to the washer/heater for safety.
I assume the contacts are not sufficiently beefy enough to carry the current of the washer, especially when the heating element is on and subsequently melt the housing.
So the workaround is to run it cold only, to avoid the heater and reduce the current load on the switch contacts.

Ahh, makes sense.

I wondered if it was some sort of volt-drop due to load causing a low voltage coil in the latch to see a greater pd under high load.

However a secondary electro-mechanical interlock to stop the drum and heater firing up with the door open makes sense too.


Daniel

[S1KRR]

motco said:

Sorry to hear that. What colour is your lock?

Pic makes it look white, but it's probably more off white in reality. Seems the grey or black locks are fine.



Such is life.

I'll get hold of a CO2 extinguisher and make sure I don't run it when I'm not home until they replace it. (Haven't been given the option yet on repair/replace so we'll see what they communicate in due course)