Discussion
Harry Flashman said:
Chaps, any tips on seasoning?
My big stove seems to cope with wood that has been sitting in a shed, logged but unsplit until recently, well. It also burns oak that has been outside, uncovered and unsplit until recently, well.
However, the little stove simply will not burn either of these properly. It is absolutely fine with kiln dried wood that I bought.
So I think that actually, all my garden wood needs yet more seasoning, even though it has been lying around for ages and the moisture meter says it is dry enough...
I season mine for about three years. That's oak split and cut into about 50cm lengths. In with the logs I have delivered there are often shorter smaller logs which I put aside for a small log burner in our kitchen.My big stove seems to cope with wood that has been sitting in a shed, logged but unsplit until recently, well. It also burns oak that has been outside, uncovered and unsplit until recently, well.
However, the little stove simply will not burn either of these properly. It is absolutely fine with kiln dried wood that I bought.
So I think that actually, all my garden wood needs yet more seasoning, even though it has been lying around for ages and the moisture meter says it is dry enough...
I'm also lucky enough to have many building wood off cuts that I pop into the fire if it's feeling a bit lazy on the burn.
snowandrocks said:
Harry Flashman said:
Chaps, any tips on seasoning?
My big stove seems to cope with wood that has been sitting in a shed, logged but unsplit until recently, well. It also burns oak that has been outside, uncovered and unsplit until recently, well.
However, the little stove simply will not burn either of these properly. It is absolutely fine with kiln dried wood that I bought.
So I think that actually, all my garden wood needs yet more seasoning, even though it has been lying around for ages and the moisture meter says it is dry enough...
Worth trying splitting the pieces further for the little stove. Like you we have a smaller stove that struggles with wood that burns perfectly well in our main stove.My big stove seems to cope with wood that has been sitting in a shed, logged but unsplit until recently, well. It also burns oak that has been outside, uncovered and unsplit until recently, well.
However, the little stove simply will not burn either of these properly. It is absolutely fine with kiln dried wood that I bought.
So I think that actually, all my garden wood needs yet more seasoning, even though it has been lying around for ages and the moisture meter says it is dry enough...
I've recently started halfing the wood with an axe when I fill the log basket for the smaller stove. It only takes a few minutes and it then happily burns away.
Haven't ever bought wood, but need a decent source.. Although I do know someone with 6 or 7 large pine trees down. I need to have a chat with them about that - so that it can season enough.
guindilias said:
I built a screw log splitter, as seen on lots of Russian Youtube vids - horribly unsafe to use, and would rip your arm off given half a chance. But a firewood processor is a bit overkill for me.
Splitter/processor pron - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYDjWxXp2dE
Fun to watch! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LdChUbCUcQ&ab...Splitter/processor pron - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYDjWxXp2dE
You can buy the screw bit on ebay, like this, but mine came from Greece. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-80mm-Screw-for-Log-Wo...
And coupled to a very overpowered 240v motor, it devours logs, branches, hands, legs and torsos without even a squeal.
The motor I used has such a huge start current that I have to either run it off an old Lister genny with a massive flywheel, or pull the mains fuse and shove in half a fuse carrier with a beefy bit of 3-core connected in, so it comes before the meter and main breaker.
I think it's something like 134 amps - only for a fraction of a second, but it pops the breaker every time if I try and run it from a socket.
And coupled to a very overpowered 240v motor, it devours logs, branches, hands, legs and torsos without even a squeal.
The motor I used has such a huge start current that I have to either run it off an old Lister genny with a massive flywheel, or pull the mains fuse and shove in half a fuse carrier with a beefy bit of 3-core connected in, so it comes before the meter and main breaker.
I think it's something like 134 amps - only for a fraction of a second, but it pops the breaker every time if I try and run it from a socket.
Origin Unknown said:
guindilias said:
I built a screw log splitter, as seen on lots of Russian Youtube vids - horribly unsafe to use, and would rip your arm off given half a chance. But a firewood processor is a bit overkill for me.
Splitter/processor pron - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYDjWxXp2dE
Fun to watch! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LdChUbCUcQ&ab...Splitter/processor pron - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYDjWxXp2dE
In Crocs and shorts too
I use mine naked, gloves or anything are a total no-no. I put a fleece over a log and touched it to the screw - it grabbed it, tore it off the log, then split the log.
I built a metal table for it so the screw is just about bellybutton height, meaning that if I am about to be abdominally killed I'll at least get a warning when I see bellybutton fluff on the screw before it disembowels me.
I built a metal table for it so the screw is just about bellybutton height, meaning that if I am about to be abdominally killed I'll at least get a warning when I see bellybutton fluff on the screw before it disembowels me.
Following the thread with interest, would like to buy a chainsaw this year. What is the minimum safety equipment I should use, and any recommendations?
I have used a variety of chainsaws and am happy handling them, don't own my own though and before reading this thread never paid much attention to the ramifications of getting it wrong. Would like to correct that before I get my own and get the right gear.
I'm very drawn to the Husqvarna 120i, so keen for thoughts. Will be for domestic use in dealing with my log burner.
Also, do you generally burn the wood with bark still attached? Apologies if it's a stupid question but I've got a very old log burner I use outdoors that burns everything from logs to construction timber. But I'm about to buy a La Castellamonte burner and been told well seasoned hard wood only or otherwise I'll smoke out the glass (as is the case with my outdoor one).
Bought an X25 axe at the weekend following recommendations on here and must say it's been ace!!
I have used a variety of chainsaws and am happy handling them, don't own my own though and before reading this thread never paid much attention to the ramifications of getting it wrong. Would like to correct that before I get my own and get the right gear.
I'm very drawn to the Husqvarna 120i, so keen for thoughts. Will be for domestic use in dealing with my log burner.
Also, do you generally burn the wood with bark still attached? Apologies if it's a stupid question but I've got a very old log burner I use outdoors that burns everything from logs to construction timber. But I'm about to buy a La Castellamonte burner and been told well seasoned hard wood only or otherwise I'll smoke out the glass (as is the case with my outdoor one).
Bought an X25 axe at the weekend following recommendations on here and must say it's been ace!!
To answer a few posts above : yes a cord is 128Cu ft/ 3.6 cu m, but measured on the trailer, loosely thrown. ie 8x4x4 ft trailer. My splitter has a low table height as suggested by someone up-page. I find I'd rather lift a bit further and not have to be bent over to work. Solution - I built ramps for under the wheels. Some splitters come with a hydraulic lifter. Costs more, of course. The tree I'm cutting now, I use the chainsaw to cut each ring into 8-9 pieces, before lifting.
Evoluzione said:
Origin Unknown said:
guindilias said:
I built a screw log splitter, as seen on lots of Russian Youtube vids - horribly unsafe to use, and would rip your arm off given half a chance. But a firewood processor is a bit overkill for me.
Splitter/processor pron - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYDjWxXp2dE
Fun to watch! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LdChUbCUcQ&ab...Splitter/processor pron - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYDjWxXp2dE
In Crocs and shorts too
Big pile is nearly done now.
Just a little more to fill in on the left hand side.
To counter all this talk of battery powered chainsaws, let me introduce my new favourite firewood saw - the mighty Stihl MS880. I’ve had it for a while and never really got on with it, too big, too heavy. 120cc, 8HP, 10 kilos.
However the youngest wanted to use a saw, and I needed to use a modern saw with a chain brake. He’s fine on small saws, but with the big stuff we were slicing up, it was a bit dangerous as the bar was shorter than the wood was wide. So I slapped a 36” bar on the 880 and tried it out. It’s immense and unstoppable, utterly brilliant. It’s crap for anything where you need to carry it more than 100 yards, but for fixed slabbing of tons of wood, it is hard to beat.
Here’s an example of Stihl longevity. It’s an 075, from the serial number it rolled off the production line in 1976.
The oil pump was leaking and not oiling well, so I stripped it down and found a bunch of dodgy looking 45 year old seals. They’re still available, £3.50 each delivered. (If you need Stihl bits online, I can recommend L&S Engineers). All sorted now and back in action.
Just a little more to fill in on the left hand side.
To counter all this talk of battery powered chainsaws, let me introduce my new favourite firewood saw - the mighty Stihl MS880. I’ve had it for a while and never really got on with it, too big, too heavy. 120cc, 8HP, 10 kilos.
However the youngest wanted to use a saw, and I needed to use a modern saw with a chain brake. He’s fine on small saws, but with the big stuff we were slicing up, it was a bit dangerous as the bar was shorter than the wood was wide. So I slapped a 36” bar on the 880 and tried it out. It’s immense and unstoppable, utterly brilliant. It’s crap for anything where you need to carry it more than 100 yards, but for fixed slabbing of tons of wood, it is hard to beat.
Here’s an example of Stihl longevity. It’s an 075, from the serial number it rolled off the production line in 1976.
The oil pump was leaking and not oiling well, so I stripped it down and found a bunch of dodgy looking 45 year old seals. They’re still available, £3.50 each delivered. (If you need Stihl bits online, I can recommend L&S Engineers). All sorted now and back in action.
rxe said:
To counter all this talk of battery powered chainsaws, let me introduce my new favourite firewood saw - the mighty Stihl MS880. I’ve had it for a while and never really got on with it, too big, too heavy. 120cc, 8HP, 10 kilos.
However the youngest wanted to use a saw, and I needed to use a modern saw with a chain brake. He’s fine on small saws, but with the big stuff we were slicing up, it was a bit dangerous as the bar was shorter than the wood was wide. So I slapped a 36” bar on the 880 and tried it out. It’s immense and unstoppable, utterly brilliant. It’s crap for anything where you need to carry it more than 100 yards, but for fixed slabbing of tons of wood, it is hard to beat.
Here’s an example of Stihl longevity. It’s an 075, from the serial number it rolled off the production line in 1976.
If we are showing our saws, then here's my 84cc, 30" bar Homelite 550 - made in March 1979 (seller's photo - I've just bought it), so I can't quite match the age or cc, but I can match the sentiment!However the youngest wanted to use a saw, and I needed to use a modern saw with a chain brake. He’s fine on small saws, but with the big stuff we were slicing up, it was a bit dangerous as the bar was shorter than the wood was wide. So I slapped a 36” bar on the 880 and tried it out. It’s immense and unstoppable, utterly brilliant. It’s crap for anything where you need to carry it more than 100 yards, but for fixed slabbing of tons of wood, it is hard to beat.
Here’s an example of Stihl longevity. It’s an 075, from the serial number it rolled off the production line in 1976.
Oh and it's now clamped to my 'chilaskan' mill and will be planking up some of my felled trees in the coming weeks/months.
Need to get a 36" bar for it though...
jet_noise said:
Harry Flashman said:
guindilias said:
Chaps and a helmet with a mesh visor.
He was asking about using a chainsaw, not what you wear on a night out, mate.
Leather catsuit with chaps on top, helmet with mesh visor, gloves and crocs...
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