I got wood

[Harry Flashman]

Evoluzione said:

Wood wants to be at equilibrium moisture content with it's surroundings. If you're buying dry wood then storing it in a damp atmosphere then you're pretty much wasting the time and money it cost to dry it.

I have somewhat expensively worked this one out!!

[Swervin_Mervin]

Harry Flashman said:

beambeam1 said:

Would it not be worth checking the kiln stuff with a moisture content tester first? That's if they can be trusted as a reliable reading.

I did!

What's the content? Is it still <20%

[Evoluzione]

rustyuk said:

I've come to conclusion that pallets are more hassle than they are worth. Unless of course you enjoy spending all weekend cutting them up.

In respect of differing fuel costs we have used Gas, Coal and Wood. In winter I have spent £10 a day on coal, can easily burn through £160 worth of wood. I don't think I've ever used more than £100 worth of gas.

That's with using Gas for cooking and heating water when using wood or coal for heating up the house.

£160 of wood a day is quite a lot

You're in danger of trying to make sense of something which doesn't make financial sense....
And yes pallets are a lot of work for little gain. The slats are only good for kindling leaving just the blocks for steady burning.
It does depend on your method though, using a sledge hammer and four blocks I can smash up a pallet in a few minutes.
If you're levering, cutting and pulling out nails it'll take forever.

[snowandrocks]

Harry Flashman said:

I have somewhat expensively worked this one out!!

Assuming it's been undercover and off the ground it'll almost certainly still burn without issue.

All of our wood is air dried in the middle of a damp forest in Northern Scotland and is miles away from being kiln dry - with plenty of kindling to get it started it burns easily.

[Evoluzione]

I think that when you embark on many new jobs, hobbies and interests you need measuring equipment to learn what is what. When you've been doing it a while you don't need this equipment so much as you already know what's going to happen.

I've never bought a moisture meter and probably won't. It's such a complex and less than exact subject that I could quickly immerse myself in it for hours. Then at the end of it I've got a pile of logs which I've prepped and left to dry covered over for18 months now. Even then the sideways rain wets the outer surface of the exposed ones.
I'll still have to lob them on the fire no matter what....

After storing them covered up I think the best you can do is have a fireplace big enough to be able to stack them by the stove. They'll dry there a bit until it's time to put them in.

[Bumblebee7]

Hello, hope everyone is well.

Just a quick one to see if anyone has opinions of Westfire stoves? Currently considering a Uniq 45, with a view to it being installed before Christmas. We wanted a La Castellamonte but it's very expensive and all the dealers for them are utterly useless.

Second point, I've got a Fiskars X25 and whilst I'm happy with it I don't feel I can get enough power down for larger logs.

I'd like to get the Gransfors Splitting Axe (not maul) and wondering if anyone has one? I don't know whether to go standard or long handle? Long handle is straight whereas standard is slightly curved. I'm leaning towards the longer one as it'll be a bit different to the Fiskars I already have. I'm 6'2 and about 90kg with gorilla arms.

Any advice welcome, thanks!

[Sebastian Tombs]

What do you chaps do for kindling?

I know you can buy bags of it, but it will get expensive if I keep doing that.

I'm getting sick of taking the axe to larger logs, or taking the saw to smaller bits of tree every evening just to get some smaller stuff for lighting the fire.

Is there a reasonably priced machine that will split my logs into 4 or 6 segments without a) making a racket, and b) endangering me.

[snowandrocks]

Longer handle definitely for me - worth having a look at these if you're not absolutely set on that particular one.

It's made by one of the high end Swedish makers (can't remember which) but is about half the price.

Splits well, enough weight to do the job without knackering you like a heavy maul.

https://www.husqvarna.com/uk/axes/splitting-axe-la...

[guitarcarfanatic]

Bumblebee7 said:

Hello, hope everyone is well.

Just a quick one to see if anyone has opinions of Westfire stoves? Currently considering a Uniq 45, with a view to it being installed before Christmas. We wanted a La Castellamonte but it's very expensive and all the dealers for them are utterly useless.

Second point, I've got a Fiskars X25 and whilst I'm happy with it I don't feel I can get enough power down for larger logs.

I'd like to get the Gransfors Splitting Axe (not maul) and wondering if anyone has one? I don't know whether to go standard or long handle? Long handle is straight whereas standard is slightly curved. I'm leaning towards the longer one as it'll be a bit different to the Fiskars I already have. I'm 6'2 and about 90kg with gorilla arms.

Any advice welcome, thanks!

I think the X25 will have similar amounts of power to the GFS Axe. It actually has a slightly heavier head (1.8kg against 1.6kg). More reach might help, but suspect working on technique will give better results - it's all about head speed. I have a X27 and was splitting 900mm wide rounds of cherry in the summer - it was hard work, but worked through them.

For the smaller stuff, I would suggest a X10 or X11 as you will be able to get it moving quicker

[snowandrocks]

Sebastian Tombs said:

What do you chaps do for kindling?

I know you can buy bags of it, but it will get expensive if I keep doing that.

I'm getting sick of taking the axe to larger logs, or taking the saw to smaller bits of tree every evening just to get some smaller stuff for lighting the fire.

Is there a reasonably priced machine that will split my logs into 4 or 6 segments without a) making a racket, and b) endangering me.

I just spend half an hour splitting logs into small strips with an axe once a month or so.

Arrange something on your chopping block to lean the logs against while you split to keep your hands well clear. I use an old tyre.

[Bill]

snowandrocks said:

I just spend half an hour splitting logs into small strips with an axe once a month or so.

Arrange something on your chopping block to lean the logs against while you split to keep your hands well clear. I use an old tyre.

+1

I just keep some smaller logs to the side as they come out of the stack, then split them in a quad tyre so the bits don't go everywhere.

[guitarcarfanatic]

Bill said:

+1

I just keep some smaller logs to the side as they come out of the stack, then split them in a quad tyre so the bits don't go everywhere.

+2 - I just make sure I keep some straight bits back and work them down on my tall chopping log with the hatchet. I have a picaroon to hold it, but prior just used a piece of kindling to steady (and thick leather gloves).

[Harry Flashman]

Sebastian Tombs said:

What do you chaps do for kindling?

I know you can buy bags of it, but it will get expensive if I keep doing that.

I'm getting sick of taking the axe to larger logs, or taking the saw to smaller bits of tree every evening just to get some smaller stuff for lighting the fire.

Is there a reasonably priced machine that will split my logs into 4 or 6 segments without a) making a racket, and b) endangering me.

Small hatchet and a club hammer. Easy and fun!

[Magooagain]

Sebastian Tombs said:

What do you chaps do for kindling?

I know you can buy bags of it, but it will get expensive if I keep doing that.

I'm getting sick of taking the axe to larger logs, or taking the saw to smaller bits of tree every evening just to get some smaller stuff for lighting the fire.

Is there a reasonably priced machine that will split my logs into 4 or 6 segments without a) making a racket, and b) endangering me.

Have a look at these.
https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=fendeur+buche+bois&a...


Manual and electric splitters availiable in most Brico stores local and at bricodepot etc.

For kindling you need a friendly builder/ carpenter type chap for scrap building wood.
Take a ride down to the rubbish tip as there is always plenty of scrap veg boxes laying to one side of the wood skip. All free to take. Same at the back of intermarche.free to take.

[andy43]

For kindling I use foot long bits of T&G floorboard - they split really easy with a small axe.

[cheeky_chops]

Pallets - circular saw straight up across the ribs, side to middle and with luck you usually dont need to hold any of it, end up with thirty or so 15 cm long bits and a few blocks, takes 10 mins per pallet. They all go in a Ikea bag in garage with a small sharp axe/gloves to split into kindling as an evening alternative to killing a family member!

[bucks]

Axe is older than me but spent a bit of time sharpening it. Split 5-6 wheelbarrows worth for the MIL.

[LeadFarmer]

andy43 said:

For kindling I use foot long bits of T&G floorboard - they split really easy with a small axe.

Do you now have a large hole in your living room floor?

[Speed addicted]

guitarcarfanatic said:

I think the X25 will have similar amounts of power to the GFS Axe. It actually has a slightly heavier head (1.8kg against 1.6kg). More reach might help, but suspect working on technique will give better results - it's all about head speed. I have a X27 and was splitting 900mm wide rounds of cherry in the summer - it was hard work, but worked through them.

For the smaller stuff, I would suggest a X10 or X11 as you will be able to get it moving quicker

I’ve been using the X37 splitting maul for the big stuff, I might get something lighter for things that don’t need maximum death though. A good hit with the x37 tends to grande things a bit.

Regarding chainsaws I’ve been using a Stihl ms181 for the last year (my first saw) and I’ve been needing a bit more reach quite often. Thinking about something like the Echo 620with a 20” bar, are Echo any good?

[LeadFarmer]

snowandrocks said:

I just spend half an hour splitting logs into small strips with an axe once a month or so.

Arrange something on your chopping block to lean the logs against while you split to keep your hands well clear. I use an old tyre.

I clamp my axe to my workbench, blade facing upwards, hold the piece of wood over the blade and whack it with a mallet. Saves having to swing the axe and get anything wrong.