Resin Floor Covering - How much?
Discussion
An old thread but worth a read. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/garage-forum/8...
If you're going with re-bar between the slabs there shouldn't be any movement. I presume you're using mesh over the whole of the new slab ?
Worst case scenario is you get a crack in a grout line - just re-grout and you're done :-)
If you're going with re-bar between the slabs there shouldn't be any movement. I presume you're using mesh over the whole of the new slab ?
Worst case scenario is you get a crack in a grout line - just re-grout and you're done :-)
thx, yes to mesh, plus stacked re-bar along front lip of all three entrances which are trenched to 20” deep.
Lawts0908 said:
I believe the epoxy resin is the best, but beware of parking hot tyres on it , because even with the really good stuff you will find the paint lifted when you next drive away. I use some old rugs layer across where the front and rears rest to avoid this.
I had this problem with the cheaper floor paint lifting, but I was hoping the 2pack stuff was better.Looks like most of you started with a tamped concrete floors. Have a powerfloated concrete floor and recently epoxy painted it but after reading about paint lifting we used a specific Powerfloat Primer (2 pack) from Watco first. This means you don't need to acid etch or grind/scarify the surface first, which sounded like a big hassle.
You then have a window of between 16 and 72 hrs to put on the top coat, which can be any water-based 2 pack epoxy paint (Watco have one but used somewhere else to get a custom colour), as it has to go on before the primer is fully cured.
Also it has to be at least 15 degrees for them to cure in a reasonable time. So don't do this until the spring now! None of this is cheap, but it only took a single coat of primer and single top coat to get an excellent coverage using rollers, and the products were actually quite easy to work with.
You need to crack on as each tin will start to harden after 1-2 hours once mixed.
So far so good, the semi gloss finish will show any imperfections but on the whole it looks great. I am still wary of tyre pick up so put down some rubber stable mats for the tyres to sit on.
You then have a window of between 16 and 72 hrs to put on the top coat, which can be any water-based 2 pack epoxy paint (Watco have one but used somewhere else to get a custom colour), as it has to go on before the primer is fully cured.
Also it has to be at least 15 degrees for them to cure in a reasonable time. So don't do this until the spring now! None of this is cheap, but it only took a single coat of primer and single top coat to get an excellent coverage using rollers, and the products were actually quite easy to work with.
You need to crack on as each tin will start to harden after 1-2 hours once mixed.
So far so good, the semi gloss finish will show any imperfections but on the whole it looks great. I am still wary of tyre pick up so put down some rubber stable mats for the tyres to sit on.
Looking really good Jonny. What price did you get for the tiling job in the end?
Direct Tile Warehouse must have had a fair bit of business from PH over the years. I went with the Dotti too having seen several really good garage projects with them on here.
I used Reno Ramp for the leading edge ramped transition out to the driveway. Looks very like the stuff posted by some else earlier but I paid significantly more than was quoted...
Been down over a year now and infinitely more attractive than rubber/plastic tiles and will certainly outlast a resin floor.
Direct Tile Warehouse must have had a fair bit of business from PH over the years. I went with the Dotti too having seen several really good garage projects with them on here.
I used Reno Ramp for the leading edge ramped transition out to the driveway. Looks very like the stuff posted by some else earlier but I paid significantly more than was quoted...
Been down over a year now and infinitely more attractive than rubber/plastic tiles and will certainly outlast a resin floor.
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