Pergola/Gazebo footings
Discussion
Gah, I knew this would be the reply 
It won’t have a permanent roof as such, but the idea is that various bits of shade can be fixed to it as needed. Some sort of retractable awning/canopy for the top and screens for (some of) the sides. So it will have the potential to create drag, yes.
I had originally planned to do as suggested, but I lifted a slab yday and the base seemed surprisingly solid, which prompted the question. I’ve also got no idea where the drains go in the vicinity of the patio, so the less I have to disturb things, the less chance I’ll dig through a pipe!
It won’t have a permanent roof as such, but the idea is that various bits of shade can be fixed to it as needed. Some sort of retractable awning/canopy for the top and screens for (some of) the sides. So it will have the potential to create drag, yes.
I had originally planned to do as suggested, but I lifted a slab yday and the base seemed surprisingly solid, which prompted the question. I’ve also got no idea where the drains go in the vicinity of the patio, so the less I have to disturb things, the less chance I’ll dig through a pipe!
Simpo Two said:
aparna said:
Simpo Two said:
Would these be suitable for a flat pack lean to pergola, without concrete? Been meaning to do this but concrete etc has been putting me off. 
and you need to plane them down a bit .... worth checking before you put them in ground .Take care with your spacing if your cross members are notched , you need to be accurate , worth testing with the 2 spare posts to make sure.
Edited by The Three D Mucketeer on Saturday 27th April 08:55
Thanks to the response on here I’ve got stuck on and have dug four neat holes under our patio with a combination of a hammer, a cold chisel and a hand auger.
Looking online suggests the ground should ideally be lined with a membrane before putting concrete in, to avoid the ground keeping the concrete damp after it cures. I’m not quite sure how to achieve this in a deep, hole that widens as it goes down, while still allowing the concrete to refill the voids I’ve made. Any ideas?
Looking online suggests the ground should ideally be lined with a membrane before putting concrete in, to avoid the ground keeping the concrete damp after it cures. I’m not quite sure how to achieve this in a deep, hole that widens as it goes down, while still allowing the concrete to refill the voids I’ve made. Any ideas?
Prawo Jazdy said:
Thanks to the response on here I’ve got stuck on and have dug four neat holes under our patio with a combination of a hammer, a cold chisel and a hand auger.
Looking online suggests the ground should ideally be lined with a membrane before putting concrete in, to avoid the ground keeping the concrete damp after it cures. I’m not quite sure how to achieve this in a deep, hole that widens as it goes down, while still allowing the concrete to refill the voids I’ve made. Any ideas?
As long as your not setting in clay and leave your postcrete to set over night it wont be a concern. Looking online suggests the ground should ideally be lined with a membrane before putting concrete in, to avoid the ground keeping the concrete damp after it cures. I’m not quite sure how to achieve this in a deep, hole that widens as it goes down, while still allowing the concrete to refill the voids I’ve made. Any ideas?
Paint the bottom 3 ft of your post in bitumen paint and you will be belt and braces sorted too.
And if I am setting in clay..? 
My plan is to fill the holes with concrete so that there’s a decent support, and then use some post feet that bolt in place I.e. the posts won’t go into the ground. I was planning to drill into the concrete, drill through the paving slabs to match, chemical/resin anchor some threaded rod into the concrete and bolt the feet to that. A bit complicated but it means that it’s a bit more reversible if it needs to be at any point, and also I won’t have to worry about rot so much.
My plan is to fill the holes with concrete so that there’s a decent support, and then use some post feet that bolt in place I.e. the posts won’t go into the ground. I was planning to drill into the concrete, drill through the paving slabs to match, chemical/resin anchor some threaded rod into the concrete and bolt the feet to that. A bit complicated but it means that it’s a bit more reversible if it needs to be at any point, and also I won’t have to worry about rot so much.
Prawo Jazdy said:
And if I am setting in clay..?
My plan is to fill the holes with concrete so that there’s a decent support, and then use some post feet that bolt in place I.e. the posts won’t go into the ground. I was planning to drill into the concrete, drill through the paving slabs to match, chemical/resin anchor some threaded rod into the concrete and bolt the feet to that. A bit complicated but it means that it’s a bit more reversible if it needs to be at any point, and also I won’t have to worry about rot so much.
I would forget the membrane and just do as you say - just choose post foot brackets that lift the post clear of the ground.My plan is to fill the holes with concrete so that there’s a decent support, and then use some post feet that bolt in place I.e. the posts won’t go into the ground. I was planning to drill into the concrete, drill through the paving slabs to match, chemical/resin anchor some threaded rod into the concrete and bolt the feet to that. A bit complicated but it means that it’s a bit more reversible if it needs to be at any point, and also I won’t have to worry about rot so much.
One downside of doing it this way is that the brackets don't do much to stop the post wobbling side to side or "racking" so whatever you build will need to be strongly braced.
sherman said:
As long as your not setting in clay and leave your postcrete to set over night it wont be a concern.
Paint the bottom 3 ft of your post in bitumen paint and you will be belt and braces sorted too.
How long do you think his posts are ? and how much in the ground ? Paint the bottom 3 ft of your post in bitumen paint and you will be belt and braces sorted too.
My Postcrete set in an hour
Why aren't you using Metaposts ?
It would be easier to square up.
Edited by The Three D Mucketeer on Monday 6th May 17:11
The Three D Mucketeer said:
sherman said:
As long as your not setting in clay and leave your postcrete to set over night it wont be a concern.
Paint the bottom 3 ft of your post in bitumen paint and you will be belt and braces sorted too.
How long do you think his posts are ? and how much in the ground ? Paint the bottom 3 ft of your post in bitumen paint and you will be belt and braces sorted too.
My Postcrete set in an hour
2ft in ground
6ft above ground
Paint first foot above ground to stop any rain splash.
Set in a hour yes. Fully cured overnight
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