So it begins...DIY garage build
Discussion
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Good job TN, hope you are well.
Cheers fella. I'm good thanks, much better than earlier this year, that's for sure!!! Hope you're doing well too. Pre-lunch update. OSB joints sanded and rubber laid out. Going to have a bit of a break and let the rubber settle a bit and then get it glued down.
Edited by thetoxicnerve on Sunday 24th October 13:27
Edited by thetoxicnerve on Sunday 24th October 13:29
The heat worries me a lot as we're having 4m bi-folds plus a 2m window. Lantern looks awesome mind.
Looking good. Presumable the large areas will be rendered when the weather is more favourable, although in fairness it has been super mild of late and expect most of it is well protected from rain be the eves!
Not sure what regs say about running a hot water pipe to a garage, but expect the run is short enough to comply with heat up times and shouldnt be a significant legionaries risk as long as you pull some hot through from time to time. Little 2l under-sink hot water unit will have a (small) parasitic load and the over sink instant units are a bit s
t!
Daniel
Not sure what regs say about running a hot water pipe to a garage, but expect the run is short enough to comply with heat up times and shouldnt be a significant legionaries risk as long as you pull some hot through from time to time. Little 2l under-sink hot water unit will have a (small) parasitic load and the over sink instant units are a bit s
t!Daniel
If you screed and it freezes it will be buggered.
You will need to block all holes to prevent wind chill ( windows, doors etc.).
You also need to make sure you are not using sand that has frozen - keep it covered at the very least.
You need to put a heater in there to keep the temp a few degrees above freezing. Not a furnace - a small electric job bike will do.
Also noticed you are tapering below 50mm - ideally you should think about 50mm as a minimum not a maximum. There are additives and mixes that will help below this thickness but add the current weather and you are inviting problems such as lack of adhesion and cracking.
Personally I would park the screeding and wait for less inclement weather, as per your external render planning.
You will need to block all holes to prevent wind chill ( windows, doors etc.).
You also need to make sure you are not using sand that has frozen - keep it covered at the very least.
You need to put a heater in there to keep the temp a few degrees above freezing. Not a furnace - a small electric job bike will do.
Also noticed you are tapering below 50mm - ideally you should think about 50mm as a minimum not a maximum. There are additives and mixes that will help below this thickness but add the current weather and you are inviting problems such as lack of adhesion and cracking.
Personally I would park the screeding and wait for less inclement weather, as per your external render planning.
I'd board the ceiling. I'm in the process of painting mine white to cast better light in the garage.
Are those LED battens? Which ones did you go for? I'm looking to replace a single fluorescent tube for 2 x LEDs and can't decide whether I need ones with a single strip, twin or possibly more.
Are those LED battens? Which ones did you go for? I'm looking to replace a single fluorescent tube for 2 x LEDs and can't decide whether I need ones with a single strip, twin or possibly more.
Re the hot water, I have an inline water heater under my sink, essentially an electric shower. It works great with a standard mixer tap and having hot water to hand is really really useful.
There's a thread from earlier in the week about burying hose pipe in the garden that's fully of anecdotes about the really sketchy setups that haven't burst in winter, so I reckon yours would be fine run from the house. I suspect the heatup time wouldn't be good enough, but maybe if you're out there and keep washing your hands after every dirty job like I do, then it'll be fine after the first pull through.
But, the biggest issue with it is that without heat and insulation you have to turn the water off in the winter anyway. Don't ask me about the time I went to get something out of the freezer as everyone was in the car ready to set off on holiday and I discovered 2" of water across the floor.
I scrolled back to look at your construction and it looks like you've decent enough over-hangs and you're not so far along that you couldn't insulate externally perhaps. I would insulate and clad or render it probably. I think it would make a huge difference for me if it was at least not freezing. For example, I'm typing this in my office and I'm about to go and watch TV, if it was the summer I'd be outside working on a project instead, but I know I'll last 20 minutes before I'm shivering!
There's a thread from earlier in the week about burying hose pipe in the garden that's fully of anecdotes about the really sketchy setups that haven't burst in winter, so I reckon yours would be fine run from the house. I suspect the heatup time wouldn't be good enough, but maybe if you're out there and keep washing your hands after every dirty job like I do, then it'll be fine after the first pull through.
But, the biggest issue with it is that without heat and insulation you have to turn the water off in the winter anyway. Don't ask me about the time I went to get something out of the freezer as everyone was in the car ready to set off on holiday and I discovered 2" of water across the floor.
I scrolled back to look at your construction and it looks like you've decent enough over-hangs and you're not so far along that you couldn't insulate externally perhaps. I would insulate and clad or render it probably. I think it would make a huge difference for me if it was at least not freezing. For example, I'm typing this in my office and I'm about to go and watch TV, if it was the summer I'd be outside working on a project instead, but I know I'll last 20 minutes before I'm shivering!
Taking into account that the garage will be unheated would it be better to us thin osb (discounting ply as way to expensive) instead of plasterboard as that would likely survive better ?
The improvement in light comes from the white painted surface rather than the material used to board out.
Could also install batts of insulation into the roof above whatever boarding is used so that heat generated whilst working doesnt just go straight up and out.
The improvement in light comes from the white painted surface rather than the material used to board out.
Could also install batts of insulation into the roof above whatever boarding is used so that heat generated whilst working doesnt just go straight up and out.
I think I would slap some plaster board up, and then glass wool upto the hieght of the joints. Will improve light, soundproofing (to keep noise in!), and also draft proofing, heat up times, and help keep overnight temps nearer day temps.
Might be cold in there, but is shouldn't be damp really, certainly nothing like a shower. We did the walls of my dad's woodwork shop (similar build really) with 1" ps backed pb ten years ago and it's as good as new.
Might be cold in there, but is shouldn't be damp really, certainly nothing like a shower. We did the walls of my dad's woodwork shop (similar build really) with 1" ps backed pb ten years ago and it's as good as new.
Super work OP.
I’d def board and paint the ceiling (though as above decide if you’re going to put anything into the rafter space - if you do, make sure you leave the right amount of ventilation).
While my integral garage has to have a boarded ceiling for fire safety, I painted the plaster (it was skimmed) and that made a big difference to the spread of the light.
I’d def board and paint the ceiling (though as above decide if you’re going to put anything into the rafter space - if you do, make sure you leave the right amount of ventilation).
While my integral garage has to have a boarded ceiling for fire safety, I painted the plaster (it was skimmed) and that made a big difference to the spread of the light.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Yeah, definitely don't use OSB, it'll look terrible even painted. I would plasterboard it for sure, simply because with the price of rockwool you'd be mad not to fill the void. Plasterboard, skim the joints and recess some light panels. Have a look at some American YouTube videos for how they do 'drywall' and you'll see how to get the joints deal with without needing to skim the ceiling.paulrockliffe said:
.... looks like you've decent enough over-hangs and you're not so far along that you couldn't insulate externally perhaps. I would insulate and clad or render it probably. I think it would make a huge difference for me if it was at least not freezing.
Insulation is broadly speaking always good, but for an intermittently heated place, internal insulation is much better as it allows a much quicker heat up time. At which point you're back to banging up an inch of pir board and plaster boarding the inside.However the other important thing in an intermittently heated space is good powerful heating.
Infra red is good for instantaneous heating of yourself, rather than the air, I have one bar 1970s bathroom type on over my work bench, and and equally period (cotton wrapped cable anyone) floor standing one I can move around a play on the back of my legs etc!
Then a couple of three 2kW convection heaters, which brings me to the max I can run off the ring main.....
Just skim the ceiling, it'll ll be done and finished in under 3 hours. Although drylining looks easier it's time consuming as you need to let the filler dry in between coats so takes about 3 days to get to the same point as skimming and then there's the sanding...
I drylined the ceiling in my kitchen as it was too big to manage plastering in one go (10x5m) but would never do it again over skimming.
I drylined the ceiling in my kitchen as it was too big to manage plastering in one go (10x5m) but would never do it again over skimming.
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