Ask an Electrician anything...

[dhutch]

Regbuser said:

Neutral to screw thread, live to the... tip.

Else you get a 240vac belt when you touch the exposed screw thread!

[Regbuser]

dhutch said:

Regbuser said:

Neutral to screw thread, live to the... tip.

Else you get a 240vac belt when you touch the exposed screw thread!

Yes, not really welcome when you're up a step ladder

[RacingPete]

glow worm said:

RacingPete said:

CU is in the house, really only going to be used for charging power tools, vacuums, table saw, pillar drill etc. really it is just for convenience to have them else where. Though am thinking down the line to put in a two post lift.

I put my 4 post lift on a separate feed with a delay RCB because of the initial surge from the motor

Thanks, I think I will use existing circuit for now for extra lights and sockets, and come lift time get it rewired.

[DoubleSix]

Planning some outdoor lighting…

Mains at house to outside wall > transformer to 24v > 8m of 2.5mm armoured cable wire to end of garden > split to two 6m lengths of IP67 LED.

Question - will i suffer significant voltage drop off?

I’m trying to avoid running 240v across the garden by keeping transformer at start of the run, but no point if i end up with no glow.

[silentbrown]

DoubleSix said:

Planning some outdoor lighting…

Mains at house to outside wall > transformer to 24v > 8m of 2.5mm armoured cable wire to end of garden > split to two 6m lengths of IP67 LED.

Question - will i suffer significant voltage drop off?

What's the power requirement of the LEDs?

Try this... https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/voltage-drop-calcul...

[DoubleSix]

Where do i get the amps figure from?

Edited by DoubleSix on Monday 4th March 23:16

[Teddy Lop]

DoubleSix said:

Where do i get the amps figure from?

Edited by DoubleSix on Monday 4th March 23:16

P=IV (I is current or amps), basic electrical theory.

So for a 100w 24v driver, 100/24 so about 4 amps.

BTW I wouldn't touch meanwell kit on domestic jobs, massive and problematic inrush currents.

[DoubleSix]

I dont know what the implications of that are…

But perhaps you could suggest an alternative solution?

[essayer]

There’s voltage drop calculators online, looks like you’ll lose <1v for 24v

[this is my username]

Can I do a DIY replacement for my EV charger?

I want to replace my newly installed (3 months ago) EV charger with one that supports Octopus Intelligent. I'm happy enough doing it, it's all very straightforward, the only complication is that the one I'm planning to install (Ohme) comes with a fixed cable so I will have to install a junction box. The circuit is in place with its own mini consumer unit containing the breaker and surge protector.

Can I legally replace it myself, or does it have to be done by en electrician?

Thanks.

[mikeiow]

this is my username said:

Can I do a DIY replacement for my EV charger?

I want to replace my newly installed (3 months ago) EV charger with one that supports Octopus Intelligent. I'm happy enough doing it, it's all very straightforward, the only complication is that the one I'm planning to install (Ohme) comes with a fixed cable so I will have to install a junction box. The circuit is in place with its own mini consumer unit containing the breaker and surge protector.

Can I legally replace it myself, or does it have to be done by en electrician?

Thanks.

Google suggests:
“
Anything that includes replacement, minor repairs and like for like changes such as adding extra (or moving) switches, lights and plug sockets. Changing old or damaged electrical wires.
Any places that are subject to water such as outside areas, bathroom and kitchen will need to be worked on by a qualified electrician.
“

To me, that suggests getting a qualified electrician…..but if you are 100% confident of your skills, I guess nobody would stop you having a go. Of course, I f there were a fire caused in that area in the future, I guess insurers might dig in & cause very expensive grief

I’m happy replacing a light fitting or socket, but would pay a sparks for that.

[essayer]

The one thing to check is earth fault detection - does the Ohme have built in PEN fault detection? If not, did the existing charger have an earth rod fitted, or does the existing EVSE consumer unit have the PEN fault detection (not the same as surge protection)

CEF do 40A 6mm wagos

[dhutch]

Yeah, you could likely do it if it was inside a garage, but not if its outside of in a kitchen.

That said, if the new charger has a captive supply lead, and you feed that through the wall to an junction box located inside, then by rights you should ok. In the same way you can run a length of SWA to a garage, terminating both ends inside, as long as its not a new circuit or fed from the kitchen! Or I think a building of flammable construction such as a wooden shed.

[this is my username]

dhutch said:

Yeah, you could likely do it if it was inside a garage, but not if its outside of in a kitchen.

That said, if the new charger has a captive supply lead, and you feed that through the wall to an junction box located inside, then by rights you should ok. In the same way you can run a length of SWA to a garage, terminating both ends inside, as long as its not a new circuit or fed from the kitchen! Or I think a building of flammable construction such as a wooden shed.

Thanks all.

I think that the deciding factor is that the junction box will be outside, so on that basis will need an electrician.

I used to be a bit more gung-ho about these things, but age and experience has made me more cautious!

[dhutch]

Obviously it makes almost no difference to the job where the JB is and as long as you're not a complete idiot you should be able to prevent it filling with water too.

However it is obviously also high current, high duty cycle kit, like a power shower on steroids!

[guitarcarfanatic]

this is my username said:

Can I do a DIY replacement for my EV charger?

I want to replace my newly installed (3 months ago) EV charger with one that supports Octopus Intelligent. I'm happy enough doing it, it's all very straightforward, the only complication is that the one I'm planning to install (Ohme) comes with a fixed cable so I will have to install a junction box. The circuit is in place with its own mini consumer unit containing the breaker and surge protector.

Can I legally replace it myself, or does it have to be done by en electrician?

Thanks.

I would buy a Wiska junction box and 6mm wagos. In fact, the Ohme might even come with the Wagos from memory. The only challenge will be re-terminating the existing cable - it's much easier than SWA, but there is a knack to getting the rubber off without damaging the inner cable. The Ohme has pen fault detection built in. But it's a chunky amount of power, so might be worth engaging a spark if you are unsure.

My house has an unusual layout which means 30m of cable to get the charger to the driveway. Quotes from the usual sources were silly, so I bought the cable and consumer unit etc myself, ran it through the loft and partition walls, out the wall and then nicely clipped, and fitted a second hand charger I sourced. It's all wired back to a dedicated consumer unit with surge protection - I am just waiting for my sparky friend to come and connect the tails up to the Henley blocks (Octopus quoting 5 weeks to fit an isolator so he might need to be a naughty boy and pull the fuse).

I picked up a multifunction tester as trying to teach my self the theory behind electrics, but I don't have a EV adaptor, so he will do the testing on commissioning.

[AW10]

dhutch said:

Yeah, you could likely do it if it was inside a garage, but not if its outside of in a kitchen.

That said, if the new charger has a captive supply lead, and you feed that through the wall to an junction box located inside, then by rights you should ok. In the same way you can run a length of SWA to a garage, terminating both ends inside, as long as its not a new circuit or fed from the kitchen! Or I think a building of flammable construction such as a wooden shed.

I thought replacing like for like even in the kitchen or outside was OK; it was adding or extending a circuit that needed certification? I.e. I can replace an electric hob or a kitchen outlet myself but I can't install a new circuit to power the hob or extend the kitchen ring main?

[codenamecueball]

Anyone got any background on or come across one of these? Is guessing the fuse a stab in the dark?



Old Fluvent service head, likely to be original to the house (1930s), no idea of fuse rating but had fused netural removed at some point and replaced with a join and some rather thin tails which run about 2m up to the meter.

We're getting an EV charger installed and hoping to skip a wasted appointment from the installer and get the DNO out to replace in advance, but they don't care at all and say it's the job of the EV charger installer to tell the DNO if it's not fit for purpose. Octopus say it's up to me to ask the DNO for an upgrade and suggested I could check the fuse rating by getting a spark in to pull it, but that their "trained meter engineers" aren't allowed to touch it?

Meter dates from 2013, no isolator post meter but consumer unit is a 2023 install and appears up to snuff with a fresh EICR, SPD and every ring has a RCBO rather than split load.

[guitarcarfanatic]

codenamecueball said:

Anyone got any background on or come across one of these? Is guessing the fuse a stab in the dark?



Old Fluvent service head, likely to be original to the house (1930s), no idea of fuse rating but had fused netural removed at some point and replaced with a join and some rather thin tails which run about 2m up to the meter.

We're getting an EV charger installed and hoping to skip a wasted appointment from the installer and get the DNO out to replace in advance, but they don't care at all and say it's the job of the EV charger installer to tell the DNO if it's not fit for purpose. Octopus say it's up to me to ask the DNO for an upgrade and suggested I could check the fuse rating by getting a spark in to pull it, but that their "trained meter engineers" aren't allowed to touch it?

Meter dates from 2013, no isolator post meter but consumer unit is a 2023 install and appears up to snuff with a fresh EICR, SPD and every ring has a RCBO rather than split load.

I have been in a similar situation (although different layout to you). I filled in the DNO request form for my local DNO and said a remote survey with an EV installer highlighted potential issues (I fibbed a bit here) and mentioned no seal on my fuse as there wasn't one. They came out, checked the fuse etc and gave it a clean bill of health (80amp fuse in the supply). It took them about 24 hours to reply and they booked to visit the next working day. They charge about £240 if you want an isolator fitted though which was a bit chunky!

I then phoned Octopus - they will fit an isolator for free. There was a 5 week delay, so I figured out a different solution with my sparky pal. But call them, and they can check if they have appointments in your area. Otherwise, there is a company called Haste who can do it - a few years back, they charged sub £100 - not sure what it is now.

Your EV installer will then fit henley blocks to split the tails after the meter and will likely fit a mini consumer unit to run the EV installation.

[dhutch]

Nice wallpaper!