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What is the highest load that you want to run from that outlet in the airing cupboard?
How is your central heating powered? Via a fused spur from the ring main, possibly located near the boiler?
How are the immersion heaters wired? Each with their own dedicated 16A breaker in the fuse panel? How often are they used?
How is your central heating powered? Via a fused spur from the ring main, possibly located near the boiler?
How are the immersion heaters wired? Each with their own dedicated 16A breaker in the fuse panel? How often are they used?
AW10 said:
What is the highest load that you want to run from that outlet in the airing cupboard?
How is your central heating powered? Via a fused spur from the ring main, possibly located near the boiler?
How are the immersion heaters wired? Each with their own dedicated 16A breaker in the fuse panel? How often are they used?
Very light. I only want to provide 9V DC to power some temperature sensors. How is your central heating powered? Via a fused spur from the ring main, possibly located near the boiler?
How are the immersion heaters wired? Each with their own dedicated 16A breaker in the fuse panel? How often are they used?
CH powered via a fuse spur near the controller in the kitchen.
One gang switches with neon power indicator. 2 dedicated 16A breaker in the fuse panel. Only used when the boiler is out of action so we can still have hot water in the tank.
Thanks
In that case what I would do is install an outlet from a fused spur fitted with a 1A fuse and clearly mark the fused spur and outlet as being protected by a 1A fuse. The 1A fuse will ensure no-one plugs a hoover in and overloads the CH system wiring. Make reasonably sure a leak from the CH system can’t drip onto anything you’ve added. And make it reversible should you move house.
I did something similar in a previous house when I wanted an outlet in the loft to power a laptop monitoring a PV solar inverter.
I did something similar in a previous house when I wanted an outlet in the loft to power a laptop monitoring a PV solar inverter.
Regbuser said:
RacingPete said:
Is the outside lighting circuit protected by an RCD?RacingPete said:
Yes, on same circuit as ground floor lighting that is RCD protected.
Hmm, I wouldn't recommend what you're proposing, because you're extending the external lighting circuit with components that are not rated for fixed or permanent installation, hence the 3A BS1363 plug.Things to consider would be reviewing potential energy in the extended circuit vs energy rating and disconnection time of the protective device. This is because you'd be bypassing the 3A fuse and hooking up the lights to say, a 6 or 10A type B RCBO.
Also, review suitability of the festoon lights for extended use in adverse environmental conditions, and whether vulnerable persons can in anyway come into contact with the lighting circuit.
But, plenty of people do just string their twinkly lights up !
Regbuser said:
RacingPete said:
Yes, on same circuit as ground floor lighting that is RCD protected.
Hmm, I wouldn't recommend what you're proposing, because you're extending the external lighting circuit with components that are not rated for fixed or permanent installation, hence the 3A BS1363 plug.Things to consider would be reviewing potential energy in the extended circuit vs energy rating and disconnection time of the protective device. This is because you'd be bypassing the 3A fuse and hooking up the lights to say, a 6 or 10A type B RCBO.
Also, review suitability of the festoon lights for extended use in adverse environmental conditions, and whether vulnerable persons can in anyway come into contact with the lighting circuit.
But, plenty of people do just string their twinkly lights up !
AW10 said:
In that case what I would do is install an outlet from a fused spur fitted with a 1A fuse and clearly mark the fused spur and outlet as being protected by a 1A fuse. The 1A fuse will ensure no-one plugs a hoover in and overloads the CH system wiring. Make reasonably sure a leak from the CH system can’t drip onto anything you’ve added. And make it reversible should you move house.
I did something similar in a previous house when I wanted an outlet in the loft to power a laptop monitoring a PV solar inverter.
Many thanksI did something similar in a previous house when I wanted an outlet in the loft to power a laptop monitoring a PV solar inverter.
Can I ask for a sanity check on a quote received to wire up a new build annexe / log cabin (8x7)?
Rural North West Hampshire.
1 Double bedroom 3.5x3, 1 single bedroom/office 1.8x2.5, bathroom 3x2.5, kitchen - living area 5x5, entrance lobby (3x1.5)
40amp supply to new board from existing building feed (Bungalow).
All in £8k + VAT
This is for LED strip lights, Quinetic switches & receivers, surface mount sockets & trunking.
Seems rather more than we were expecting.
Example
Lobby area
1 No. LED strip light light,
1 No. Quinetic switch & receiver),
1 No. Double socket.
For The Sum Of £ 670.00
Thanks
Rural North West Hampshire.
1 Double bedroom 3.5x3, 1 single bedroom/office 1.8x2.5, bathroom 3x2.5, kitchen - living area 5x5, entrance lobby (3x1.5)
40amp supply to new board from existing building feed (Bungalow).
All in £8k + VAT
This is for LED strip lights, Quinetic switches & receivers, surface mount sockets & trunking.
Seems rather more than we were expecting.
Example
Lobby area
1 No. LED strip light light,
1 No. Quinetic switch & receiver),
1 No. Double socket.
For The Sum Of £ 670.00
Thanks
PaulV said:
Can I ask for a sanity check on a quote received to wire up a new build annexe / log cabin (8x7)?
Rural North West Hampshire.
1 Double bedroom 3.5x3, 1 single bedroom/office 1.8x2.5, bathroom 3x2.5, kitchen - living area 5x5, entrance lobby (3x1.5)
40amp supply to new board from existing building feed (Bungalow).
All in £8k + VAT
This is for LED strip lights, Quinetic switches & receivers, surface mount sockets & trunking.
Seems rather more than we were expecting.
Example
Lobby area
1 No. LED strip light light,
1 No. Quinetic switch & receiver),
1 No. Double socket.
For The Sum Of £ 670.00
Thanks
Yes I'd get another quote!Rural North West Hampshire.
1 Double bedroom 3.5x3, 1 single bedroom/office 1.8x2.5, bathroom 3x2.5, kitchen - living area 5x5, entrance lobby (3x1.5)
40amp supply to new board from existing building feed (Bungalow).
All in £8k + VAT
This is for LED strip lights, Quinetic switches & receivers, surface mount sockets & trunking.
Seems rather more than we were expecting.
Example
Lobby area
1 No. LED strip light light,
1 No. Quinetic switch & receiver),
1 No. Double socket.
For The Sum Of £ 670.00
Thanks
I'd commute down from north London and do it for less than that..
PhilboSE said:
I am adding a shaver socket into a bathroom. I know I can connect to a ring main via an FCU with a 3A fuse, or direct to a lighting circuit.
Either is equally easy. But is one method regarded as “better” than the other?
Not really.Either is equally easy. But is one method regarded as “better” than the other?
I'd pick the lighting circuit option as it's typical.
Bazsm said:
Any idea on the cost to move our main consumer unit from the garage into our downstairs utility room, it’s basically just moving it to the other side of the wall it sits on atm, so drill a hole, thread the big cable through and connect up!
It sounds very easy to me
"the big cable". It sounds very easy to me
Have you forgotten that all the 'little cables' will need re-routing too?
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