Door Hanging - Which tools?
Discussion
Have you looked at the Jigtech system for handles etc? They do away with the need for chiselling out rebates in the frame/door.
FWIW I used Winbags, found them brilliant! I used a router to form the rebates in the door for the hinge. Once the depth and fence were set up it was a doddle to make clean even and consistent rebates on the 19 doors I hung. I used plastic packs to help achieve a 2mm gap around the doors. I also spent £200 on a decent electric planer just for the project. For me it was worth the expense if it helped to make a better job!
FWIW I used Winbags, found them brilliant! I used a router to form the rebates in the door for the hinge. Once the depth and fence were set up it was a doddle to make clean even and consistent rebates on the 19 doors I hung. I used plastic packs to help achieve a 2mm gap around the doors. I also spent £200 on a decent electric planer just for the project. For me it was worth the expense if it helped to make a better job!
Edited by _Hoppers on Wednesday 29th December 19:38
Tyre Tread said:
timberman said:
If you intend using a router to cut out the hinge recesses then don't bother with a hinge jig,
just get one of these
bearing guided template bit
and make your own jig to suit whichever hinges you get ( I used to make mine out of left over bits of 3/4" ply or mdf)
you can also make jigs to help with drilling holes for the spindle bar and other parts if you want,
I have a corner chisel,
if using a router it does make cleaning the corners up a bit easier but isn't absolutely necessary, a sharp chisel will work easily enough
also one of these
drill guide
is good for centring the drill bit on the door edge when drilling to fit the mortice latch/lock
you will need a drill with a 43mm collar to use this though, which might be an issue if you only have cordless drills
I had one of those Axminster drill guides for years and never used it so gave it away when I moved house 6 years ago.just get one of these
bearing guided template bit
and make your own jig to suit whichever hinges you get ( I used to make mine out of left over bits of 3/4" ply or mdf)
you can also make jigs to help with drilling holes for the spindle bar and other parts if you want,
I have a corner chisel,
if using a router it does make cleaning the corners up a bit easier but isn't absolutely necessary, a sharp chisel will work easily enough
also one of these
drill guide
is good for centring the drill bit on the door edge when drilling to fit the mortice latch/lock
you will need a drill with a 43mm collar to use this though, which might be an issue if you only have cordless drills
I have several drills. Even got my dad's old Black & Decker metal cased drill. (My dad dies in 1985 so it's probably 45, if not 50 years old) which should fit it. ISTR there were different colour plastic collars with the drill guide I had.
they're quite useful for centring the drill bit on the edge of a door and when used correctly very accurate, plus require less effort marking the door prior to drilling
I've got an electric plane(r) (Erbauer) and I like the look of the feet to hold the doors but they do look rather expensive for what they are. I was planning on making a stand from some bits i have lying about.
As I said, I already have a door lifter (the metal pivot one mentioned earlier) from when I fitted the doors in my last house and I've already bought a pair of air bags so I'll try both and see what works for me.
I'll confess I bought a s/h router off Gumtree but didn't do my homework first and I bought a 1/2" draper which is way too big and cumbersome. When I picked it up it was like new. Only when I got it home did I realise the depth adjuster was missing (despite me asking the vendor if it was complete and nothing missing
). So I may well invest in a budget 1/4" palm router hence my question originally about the best tools to do this.
Now I just need to choose and buy the doors. A local firm was quoting around £3K to supply and fit 12 oak veneer doors which is why I am where I am now.
All advice is much appreciated. Thanks to all who have contributed thus far.
As I said, I already have a door lifter (the metal pivot one mentioned earlier) from when I fitted the doors in my last house and I've already bought a pair of air bags so I'll try both and see what works for me.
I'll confess I bought a s/h router off Gumtree but didn't do my homework first and I bought a 1/2" draper which is way too big and cumbersome. When I picked it up it was like new. Only when I got it home did I realise the depth adjuster was missing (despite me asking the vendor if it was complete and nothing missing
). So I may well invest in a budget 1/4" palm router hence my question originally about the best tools to do this.Now I just need to choose and buy the doors. A local firm was quoting around £3K to supply and fit 12 oak veneer doors which is why I am where I am now.
All advice is much appreciated. Thanks to all who have contributed thus far.
An easy and potentially free way of making a door stand is a couple of 60-80cm lengths of suitably sized wood (say 4x2) with a ~7cmx5cm square notch cut out for the door to stand in, then cut a couple wedges that you slide into each notch to wedge the door in place and hold it upright. A totally unrelated image but you can see the ones I used when I did my doors sitting in the middle of the cabinet here, held the door perfectly fine for drilling and planing etc
Fancy suggesting it’s extravagant to buy a router for 12 doors. I bought one a few weeks back to hang 2!
I justified it by deciding an even depth of cut would be easier with a palm router than a chisel and a marking gauge, haven’t hung the doors yet because I’ve got a zillion other things to do too, but I’m looking forward to doing it without these infamous air jacks. I’m more of a wedge or chisel guy to level things up.
I justified it by deciding an even depth of cut would be easier with a palm router than a chisel and a marking gauge, haven’t hung the doors yet because I’ve got a zillion other things to do too, but I’m looking forward to doing it without these infamous air jacks. I’m more of a wedge or chisel guy to level things up.
AlmostUseful said:
Fancy suggesting it’s extravagant to buy a router for 12 doors. I bought one a few weeks back to hang 2!
I know it sounds harsh, but it makes up for your lack of skill and nothing wrong with that.You have to remember we've got DIYers and pros here, i'd have hung the door before you even set up your router.
Evoluzione said:
I know it sounds harsh, but it makes up for your lack of skill and nothing wrong with that.
You have to remember we've got DIYers and pros here, i'd have hung the door before you even set up your router.
Which puts your previous comments about not needing any of these tools into context, if you have the skill and experience to hang a door quickly with traditional tools you'd almost certainly be slower adding things like a router etc to the equation because its not what you've practiced time after time to gain that skill. For those of us that have never hung doors or don't do it often enough to develop a decent skill level, using additional tools makes the process more easily repeatable and although I'm sure I could probably do a door quicker using a chisel with a bit of practice, the chances of screwing it up are far higher so I'd rather take the slow and safe option given I'm not paying for my time. You have to remember we've got DIYers and pros here, i'd have hung the door before you even set up your router.
Edited by LocoBlade on Wednesday 29th December 21:32
Evoluzione said:
I know it sounds harsh, but it makes up for your lack of skill and nothing wrong with that.
You have to remember we've got DIYers and pros here, i'd have hung the door before you even set up your router.
Not harsh at all, in reality I just wanted a router and it seemed a good way to get perfect depth hinge cut outs. You have to remember we've got DIYers and pros here, i'd have hung the door before you even set up your router.
Last time I hung a door I cut them in too deep I think. You won’t have cut and hung anything before I’ve set my router up by the way, not my first rodeo and I’m pretty handy, you’ll definitely have hung it before I do though, no doubting that.
LocoBlade said:
Evoluzione said:
I know it sounds harsh, but it makes up for your lack of skill and nothing wrong with that.
You have to remember we've got DIYers and pros here, i'd have hung the door before you even set up your router.
Which puts your previous comments about not needing any of these tools into context, if you have the skill and experience to hang a door quickly with traditional tools you'd almost certainly be slower adding things like a router etc to the equation because its not what you've practiced time after time to gain that skill. For those of us that have never hung doors or don't do it often enough to develop a decent skill level, using additional tools makes the process more easily repeatable and although I'm sure I could probably do a door quicker using a chisel with a bit of practice, the chances of screwing it up are far higher so I'd rather take the slow and safe option given I'm not paying for my time. You have to remember we've got DIYers and pros here, i'd have hung the door before you even set up your router.
I have both and can use either very efficiently. I wouldn't buy a router to do 12, I wouldn't even get my router out to do two.
For the learner you have to make the decision which to learn, traditional or modern. Really one should come before the other, if your router is unavailable, stops working, cutter breaks whatever you're a bit buggered when you don't know how to do it manually.
It's like passing your driving test in an automatic.
You'll make a far bigger unrepairable mess of something with a machine than by hand though.
Everyone is different, my own thread has shown a surprising interest in getting back to basics with lime and doing masonry. There is a lot of enjoyment to be had in learning the traditional skills, using the tools and working with the material rather than just ploughing through it with a machine. It's good for the soul rather than just getting something done and out of the way.
Hang on, I just remembered why I wanted a router now, I’m doing a pair of French doors with a rebated latch/interface and saw a video explaining it was really easy to split the face of the door because of the mass of material you remove from the rebate - in this instance I reckon a router was the right choice, with a steady hand and/or a drill press an auger bit in a drill might be ideal but I can get a more steady cut with a router so I’ll run with that.
I’d bloody love to have the time and patience to do it by hand like a craftsman but it’s not going to happen any time soon unfortunately.
I’d bloody love to have the time and patience to do it by hand like a craftsman but it’s not going to happen any time soon unfortunately.
As said else where, the must items for me, let alone someone with less experience would be air wedges, packers, door stand or a notched bit of 4x2 and wedges, Sharp chisels, Jack or smoothing plane, electric planer, makita trimmers are great to take most of the meat out before finishing off with a chisel, centering drill bits, probably some trestles to lay the door on to cut the height. A plunge saw is perfect for that but too expensive really.id say more control with a flat bit. Augers can keep on pulling if you need to go a little deeper, and if its a glazed door be careful.
A tip is if the hinge holes don't line up to the old ones on the casing, I just pilot the top ones, then if the door binds in the rebate you can drill fresh holes to move the hinge out without it moving back into the first hole.
A tip is if the hinge holes don't line up to the old ones on the casing, I just pilot the top ones, then if the door binds in the rebate you can drill fresh holes to move the hinge out without it moving back into the first hole.
https://www.robc.co.uk/product/the-76mm-hinge-jig-...
https://www.toolstation.com/trend-14-template-prof...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msr1200-12...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-bailey-block-pl...
https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Dewalt-Dt4770Qz-...
New blades in the planer, new drill bits, chisels are sharp are you can get them. Have a keen eye and take your time.
I’m a chippy and I will happily use the router for one door but my cordless router lives in the same box as the cordless planer so it’s no real hardship.
Having a few 2mm plastic packers helps, air wedge on the bottom and trap the 2mm packer on the head and you will always get a decent gap.
If they are oak doors you are hanging be aware that when it comes to chopping out for the latch, the oak will want to split and screw you over, I made my own jig for the latch faceplates for stop this happening. I have probably swung over 1000 doors in my time but I still hate doing them.
https://www.toolstation.com/trend-14-template-prof...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msr1200-12...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-bailey-block-pl...
https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Dewalt-Dt4770Qz-...
New blades in the planer, new drill bits, chisels are sharp are you can get them. Have a keen eye and take your time.
I’m a chippy and I will happily use the router for one door but my cordless router lives in the same box as the cordless planer so it’s no real hardship.
Having a few 2mm plastic packers helps, air wedge on the bottom and trap the 2mm packer on the head and you will always get a decent gap.
If they are oak doors you are hanging be aware that when it comes to chopping out for the latch, the oak will want to split and screw you over, I made my own jig for the latch faceplates for stop this happening. I have probably swung over 1000 doors in my time but I still hate doing them.
The yoof of today needs to carry plastic packers in his tool box as he doesn't carry money, old school simply reaches into his kegs for a 2p piece or does it by eye. For the former put the coin on the top and stand on your chisel to lift it up.
Speed is everything when you're doing it for a living.
You'll never get bored of working a learned skill, it's a pleasure to see it all come together in a short amount of time instead of struggling.
Speed is everything when you're doing it for a living.
You'll never get bored of working a learned skill, it's a pleasure to see it all come together in a short amount of time instead of struggling.
Evoluzione said:
The yoof of today needs to carry plastic packers in his tool box as he doesn't carry money, old school simply reaches into his kegs for a 2p piece or does it by eye. For the former put the coin on the top and stand on your chisel to lift it up.
Speed is everything when you're doing it for a living.
You'll never get bored of working a learned skill, it's a pleasure to see it all come together in a short amount of time instead of struggling.
I used to use a 10p piece, but now I tend to have a few packers kicking around in my tool boxes and I don’t always carry my wallet any more. I too used (and still do sometimes) use a chisel to jack the door up. I have also marked the bottom of doors doing this and it’s not ideal when it’s some form of hard flooring down that can be marked. Speed is everything when you're doing it for a living.
You'll never get bored of working a learned skill, it's a pleasure to see it all come together in a short amount of time instead of struggling.
We have all got our own tricks, tips and ways and I’m always open to new ideas. I remember being on a big housing site, on price work when I was 25, swinging doors with a hammer and chisel. Chap in the house next to me was in his 60’s and he was using a router and trend hinge jig.
Work smarter not harder as they say.
Gtom said:
Evoluzione said:
The yoof of today needs to carry plastic packers in his tool box as he doesn't carry money, old school simply reaches into his kegs for a 2p piece or does it by eye. For the former put the coin on the top and stand on your chisel to lift it up.
Speed is everything when you're doing it for a living.
You'll never get bored of working a learned skill, it's a pleasure to see it all come together in a short amount of time instead of struggling.
I used to use a 10p piece, but now I tend to have a few packers kicking around in my tool boxes and I don’t always carry my wallet any more. I too used (and still do sometimes) use a chisel to jack the door up. I have also marked the bottom of doors doing this and it’s not ideal when it’s some form of hard flooring down that can be marked. Speed is everything when you're doing it for a living.
You'll never get bored of working a learned skill, it's a pleasure to see it all come together in a short amount of time instead of struggling.
We have all got our own tricks, tips and ways and I’m always open to new ideas. I remember being on a big housing site, on price work when I was 25, swinging doors with a hammer and chisel. Chap in the house next to me was in his 60’s and he was using a router and trend hinge jig.
Work smarter not harder as they say.
If you're on a building site doing multiple houses and you put the casings in then it's router everytime.
Half of the talent is knowing at what point to do one or the other.
All the talent is knowing how to get over something when you inevitably balls it up. That’s where the years of experience come in.
For what it’s worth, I fitted a new door at home today, nothing fancy, just a dordogne style egg box. Half way through fitting this thread popped up and I thought ‘I would pay someone £80 to come and fit the f
king thing’
For what it’s worth, I fitted a new door at home today, nothing fancy, just a dordogne style egg box. Half way through fitting this thread popped up and I thought ‘I would pay someone £80 to come and fit the f
king thing’AlmostUseful said:
Evoluzione said:
Half of the talent is knowing at what point to do one or the other.
The old “you’re not paying for the 30 seconds it took me to grab my hammer and tap, you’re paying for the 30 years I spent learning where to tap”Gtom said:
All the talent is knowing how to get over something when you inevitably balls it up. That’s where the years of experience come in.
No. If you know what you're doing you don't balls it up in the first place, but knowing how to get out of it is worth knowing for that odd occasion.Edited by Evoluzione on Thursday 30th December 11:34
Gtom said:
All the talent is knowing how to get over something when you inevitably balls it up. That’s where the years of experience come in.
No. If you know what you're doing you don't balls it up in the first place, but knowing how to get out of it is worth knowing for that odd occasion.I did 7yrs in college from basic carpentry and joinery, to advanced. Then Woodwork machinery, then Series 600 building management as it was.
If you want me to set up a Wadkin 220 5 cutter to run off 5 miles of skirting, floorboard or whatever i'll do it, likewise a double ended tenoner or a Whitehill block in a spindle moulder. I'll fit it too if you want with a mitre saw and a coping saw.
I was lucky in that respect, I had an employer who backed me and I rewarded them too. I made them money, they taught me. There weren't many places back then who did it, even less now.
I’m not going down the tit for tat road, I am following your house thread and have major respect (and jealousy) for what you are doing.
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