Drayton Wiser - Hints and Tips Thread
Discussion
V8covin said:
My room stat has decided to play silly buggers today.
The heating is set to come on at 18 degrees.
I'm thinking it feels cold in here,look at the app and it's showing 20.5 degrees.
So I get a regular thermometer and put it next to the Wiser room stat, it's showing 15.5 degrees .No wonder I feel cold .
Batteries are good, tried taking them out and refitting but makes no difference.
Is it kaput ?
How close to the heat source in the room is the room stat?The heating is set to come on at 18 degrees.
I'm thinking it feels cold in here,look at the app and it's showing 20.5 degrees.
So I get a regular thermometer and put it next to the Wiser room stat, it's showing 15.5 degrees .No wonder I feel cold .
Batteries are good, tried taking them out and refitting but makes no difference.
Is it kaput ?
V8covin said:
B'stard Child said:
How close to the heat source in the room is the room stat?
As close as it was when it was installed in 2017.....not close at all Was working perfectly up until today
I think I'd have a call with Wiser support - they can see far more data than we see in the app they maybe able to "give the hamster inside it a kick"
V8covin said:
It's the room stat not the trv
try https://schneider-electric.zendesk.com/hc/en-gb/ar...
AW10 said:
That hasn't made any difference.I'm in touch with Drayton,see if they come up with anything
Hoping someone can help.
I've fitted the wiser kit 1 today, but the heating is constantly on.
It's fitted to a logic combi 24 boiler. According to the instructions, I need to link the 240v on to terminal 1, however, on the old base plate, the live and terminal A were not linked.
Before I send 240v down the switch live and blow up the boiler, can anyone confirm whether I need 240v or not?
Old baseplate pic attached
I've fitted the wiser kit 1 today, but the heating is constantly on.
It's fitted to a logic combi 24 boiler. According to the instructions, I need to link the 240v on to terminal 1, however, on the old base plate, the live and terminal A were not linked.
Before I send 240v down the switch live and blow up the boiler, can anyone confirm whether I need 240v or not?
Old baseplate pic attached
Lopey said:
Hoping someone can help.
I've fitted the wiser kit 1 today, but the heating is constantly on.
It's fitted to a logic combi 24 boiler. According to the instructions, I need to link the 240v on to terminal 1, however, on the old base plate, the live and terminal A were not linked.
Before I send 240v down the switch live and blow up the boiler, can anyone confirm whether I need 240v or not?
Old baseplate pic attached
Bit hard to read as you appear to have taken a photo with an early 00's Nokia but I'll give things a shot. I've fitted the wiser kit 1 today, but the heating is constantly on.
It's fitted to a logic combi 24 boiler. According to the instructions, I need to link the 240v on to terminal 1, however, on the old base plate, the live and terminal A were not linked.
Before I send 240v down the switch live and blow up the boiler, can anyone confirm whether I need 240v or not?
Old baseplate pic attached
It appears to be a Honeywell BDR91 which is a wireless relay box.
https://manuals.plus/honeywell-home/bdr91-wireless...
I would presume therefore that N and L are what they say and are merely a neutral and live supply. I would suggest that either A or B is switched 240v but is supplying the 240v from the boiler (or maybe a lower voltage).
Personally I would investigate at the boiler how its wired but without doing that I would not "send 240v down the switch live" I would replicate exactly what the previous switch does. Namely
N to N
L to L
A to 1
B to 3
Do not link L to A or B.
BigBen said:
Is there a way to remotely force valves to do a re-calibration? Would be a bit handier than going round and removing/replacing the batteries.
YesIts on the Wiser site somewhere
https://wiser.draytoncontrols.co.uk/
Or here
Edited by B'stard Child on Sunday 31st December 14:36
B'stard Child said:
Thank you, but I can only see the manual instructions. Looks like I will have to actually move from the sofa today 
BigBen said:
B'stard Child said:
Thank you, but I can only see the manual instructions. Looks like I will have to actually move from the sofa today 
B'stard Child said:
BigBen said:
B'stard Child said:
Thank you, but I can only see the manual instructions. Looks like I will have to actually move from the sofa today Fastdruid said:
Bit hard to read as you appear to have taken a photo with an early 00's Nokia but I'll give things a shot.
It appears to be a Honeywell BDR91 which is a wireless relay box.
https://manuals.plus/honeywell-home/bdr91-wireless...
I would presume therefore that N and L are what they say and are merely a neutral and live supply. I would suggest that either A or B is switched 240v but is supplying the 240v from the boiler (or maybe a lower voltage).
Personally I would investigate at the boiler how its wired but without doing that I would not "send 240v down the switch live" I would replicate exactly what the previous switch does. Namely
N to N
L to L
A to 1
B to 3
Do not link L to A or B.
I had B on 2 It appears to be a Honeywell BDR91 which is a wireless relay box.
https://manuals.plus/honeywell-home/bdr91-wireless...
I would presume therefore that N and L are what they say and are merely a neutral and live supply. I would suggest that either A or B is switched 240v but is supplying the 240v from the boiler (or maybe a lower voltage).
Personally I would investigate at the boiler how its wired but without doing that I would not "send 240v down the switch live" I would replicate exactly what the previous switch does. Namely
N to N
L to L
A to 1
B to 3
Do not link L to A or B.
Your tip worked. Thanks
Hi folks
Having a bit of an issue at the moment with the set up of my system and while I’m waiting for Drayton to get back to me I thought I’d ask here:
I have the 2 channel hub and my heating system is based on a thermal store and oil boiler. What I’ve discovered is with the old Drayton panel when I pressed heating boost the hot water also comes on.
But with the wiser hub when you boost the heating all it does is start the pump running rather than heating the thermal store too.
Is there anyway to programme the hub such that when you ask for heating it also starts the boiler to heat the hot water?
Having a bit of an issue at the moment with the set up of my system and while I’m waiting for Drayton to get back to me I thought I’d ask here:
I have the 2 channel hub and my heating system is based on a thermal store and oil boiler. What I’ve discovered is with the old Drayton panel when I pressed heating boost the hot water also comes on.
But with the wiser hub when you boost the heating all it does is start the pump running rather than heating the thermal store too.
Is there anyway to programme the hub such that when you ask for heating it also starts the boiler to heat the hot water?
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff