My Garage Build

[CharlesdeGaulle]

Aluminati said:

You can put a corner fillet in to direct the water away from the rebate at the bottom of the reveal, top doesn’t matter. Sounds like they have sold you a secret gutter which is not ideal, as it will mean a straight cut for the chase for the lead alternative. ( It’ll look pretty st to be honest) when your slate/tile overhangs the eave is should fit roughly in the centre of the gutter. If I remember correctly, you are Cambridge way, if you want me to whizz up Saturday morning for a couple of hours to give you a crash course, no problem. Much tea and digestives will be required.

What a fantastic offer. Nice thread.

[kevinon]

Wow, thanks for setting out all the steps for us.
I'm in awe of the ambition, and devil may care physical bravery, and problem solving.

Oh, and also appreciate the side comments - showing the delivery truck - "As you can see I do have a tight back passage"

and about the slight miscalculation of the joists - "Over the day the other two beams were around 20cm to far right (perhaps they belong in NP&E.)"


Well played sir!

[Aluminati]

CharlesdeGaulle said:

What a fantastic offer. Nice thread.

Met the man a week or so ago, and have nothing but admiration for his efforts, bloody incredible to be honest ! A couple of hours out of my day would be a pleasure if

A) it’s not pissing down

B) Mc’Vities digestives

[CharlesdeGaulle]

Aluminati said:

Met the man a week or so ago, and have nothing but admiration for his efforts, bloody incredible to be honest ! A couple of hours out of my day would be a pleasure if

A) it’s not pissing down

B) Mc’Vities digestives

Are you not tempted to hold out for Hob Nobs?

[Aluminati]

CharlesdeGaulle said:

Are you not tempted to hold out for Hob Nobs?

Hmmmmm

[BigBen]

Aluminati said:

You can put a corner fillet in to direct the water away from the rebate at the bottom of the reveal, top doesn’t matter. Sounds like they have sold you a secret gutter which is not ideal, as it will mean a straight cut for the chase for the lead alternative. ( It’ll look pretty st to be honest) when your slate/tile overhangs the eave is should fit roughly in the centre of the gutter. If I remember correctly, you are Cambridge way, if you want me to whizz up Saturday morning for a couple of hours to give you a crash course, no problem. Much tea and digestives will be required.

:Edit:

Wooden gutters lined with lead alternative are making my teeth itch

Edited by Aluminati on Wednesday 10th May 19:29

That is an amazing offer but sadly I am quite a bit further away than Cambridge (I came to you from work) and have to oand watch the Saints get beaten by Saracens Saturday.

I thought I could do a stepped chase over the secret gutter bit, what's the reason why not?

For the sake of your teeth I will avoid wood covered in lead alternative . Bit am still not clear what needs to happen at the bottom of the secret gutter where it meets the pillar / corner (apologies if I have missed something)

[Aluminati]

BigBen said:

That is an amazing offer but sadly I am quite a bit further away than Cambridge (I came to you from work) and have to oand watch the Saints get beaten by Saracens Saturday.

I thought I could do a stepped chase over the secret gutter bit, what's the reason why not?

For the sake of your teeth I will avoid wood covered in lead alternative . Bit am still not clear what needs to happen at the bottom of the secret gutter where it meets the pillar / corner (apologies if I have missed something)

What slate/tile are you using ?

[BigBen]

Aluminati said:

What slate/tile are you using ?

Sandtoft New Cassius. They are a flat interlocking clay tile. I chose them because they are slate coloured and I like the choice of name for a clay tile.
https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/sandto...

[BigBen]

This is a side view of the soaker / gutter (flashing omitted because I forgot)

It is what to do when the wall turns the corner, shown in the lower part of the picture, that I am struggling with . I guess I can cut the secret gutter with a mitre joint so it overlaps a corner bit somewhat......

[Schwarz930]

So is that Secret gutter instead of a lead flashing where the new garage roof abuts the gable of the existing building?

Was this supposed to be an easier solution for DIY?

Cheers

[Aluminati]

BigBen said:

This is a side view of the soaker / gutter (flashing omitted because I forgot)

It is what to do when the wall turns the corner, shown in the lower part of the picture, that I am struggling with . I guess I can cut the secret gutter with a mitre joint so it overlaps a corner bit somewhat......

Depending on the depth of the rebate, I would run the gutter through flush, put a timber packer behind the upstand and dress lead alternative across and down.

[BigBen]

Aluminati said:

Depending on the depth of the rebate, I would run the gutter through flush, put a timber packer behind the upstand and dress lead alternative across and down.

It is not too deep so that should work. Thank you

Schwarz930 said:

So is that Secret gutter instead of a lead flashing where the new garage roof abuts the gable of the existing building?

Was this supposed to be an easier solution for DIY?

Yes, from my reasearch you are supposed to use a secret gutter in conjunction with flat interlocking tiles as lead will not seal against horizontal / driving water in the same way as it would with say a double Roman tile. The flashing goes over the gutter then onto the tiles, the gutter is an extra escape route AIUI.

[BigBen]

Day 7. Rudely awoken this morning by my mate calling to say he had a few hours to spare if I needed him. I took him up on his offer and we made excelling progress in fitting roofing membrane getting nearly all of the 'apex' bit of the roof covered in only an hour or so.

The process for installing membrane is to pull it tight across all the joists but allow a bit of sag inbetwen to form sort of cloth gutters, of the six runs installed today 5 are pretty decent and one is merely OK (based on my total lack of roofing experience).

At lunchtime I decided I should get a ridge hook for my ladder so I will be more safely able to climb around the roof when tiling. I picked one up from the local screwfix. Whilst there I decided to pick up a sandwich from Greggs only to find the Google Pay app on my phone was not working and I had no money with me, the nice lad in Greggs said "don't worry this one is on me" and didn't charge me, I went back later on the school run and he refused to take payment, top service from Greggs!

After lunch it proceeded to rain, not in a small way but in a risk of drowning way, this somewhat slowed progress but I sat under the already installed membrane and confirm both it and the guttering is doing a fine job. Although I couldn't figure out why I kept getting wet:



When the rain turned to bright sunshine, as has been the weather pattern this week, I got back on the roof and installed the final two runs of the main roof section. This left me a problem of not being able to reach the peak of the roof to tack them into place as the access points were now covered. Luckily I still have the Genie lift, a pallet and a willing child whose mum wasn't looking. No photos so no evidence but the membrane is secure



Tomorrow I will install the final bits of membrane (Hopefully have enough left on the roll) and batten the entire roof ready for tiling. That is my target anyway and it looks like a dry day.

Final question for today. At the apex and hips I believe I have a choice of leave the membrane covering them (preferred) or cutting it just shy to allow roof ventilation. I believe the ventilation is only necessary if I planned to insulate the roof which I don't. If I change my mind in future I can always cut it from the inside. Please correct me if this is wrong.

[Chumley.mouse]

I’ve always laid one length of membrane followed by the battens then worked up the roof , that way you work off the battens. Any reason you didn’t do it that way ?

I’d just flap the membrane over on the hips, cut one side neat so it looks good from the inside then just flap the other side over on the outside.

This might be a stupid question but was there any option/ reason to not have a freestanding garage with a completely hipped roof to avoid the issues with the flashings/ secret gutter ?

[Aluminati]

You won’t need to ventilate.

Usual course of events when installing membrane is batten as you go, makes life much easier !

[BigBen]

Chumley.mouse said:

I’ve always laid one length of membrane followed by the battens then worked up the roof , that way you work off the battens. Any reason you didn’t do it that way ?

I’d just flap the membrane over on the hips, cut one side neat so it looks good from the inside then just flap the other side over on the outside.

This might be a stupid question but was there any option/ reason to not have a freestanding garage with a completely hipped roof to avoid the issues with the flashings/ secret gutter ?

To answer question one pure ignorance on my part / I had read some guides suggesting setting the battens with two tiles at the bottom then fit the top one and set the gauge that way. That said it is 'just' maths so I suppose not necessary.

The reason for wanting it joined to the adjacent building is I will ultimately have a connecting door as that is where all my tools / general stuff is kept. It will also be easier to run power. Having a fully hipped roof would not allow the attic space that I have above the non hipped bit.

[BigBen]

Aluminati said:

You won’t need to ventilate.

Usual course of events when installing membrane is batten as you go, makes life much easier !

You are the second person to tell me that!

I had assumed that approach would slow things down as getting the battens evenly spaced is clearly critical. Ah well I know next time.....

[Aluminati]

BigBen said:

You are the second person to tell me that!

I had assumed that approach would slow things down as getting the battens evenly spaced is clearly critical. Ah well I know next time.....

You will be able to get tile gauge from manufacturers website. Get your first batten set in and make yourself a guide from a batten offcut as a spacer. Remember to even the gauge out over the pitch so you don’t get an odd size tile at the ridge, there will be some tolerance in gauge. Have you put a tilt fillet on, or a fascia ?

[BigBen]

Aluminati said:

BigBen said:

You are the second person to tell me that!

I had assumed that approach would slow things down as getting the battens evenly spaced is clearly critical. Ah well I know next time.....

You will be able to get tile gauge from manufacturers website. Get your first batten set in and make yourself a guide from a batten offcut as a spacer. Remember to even the gauge out over the pitch so you don’t get an odd size tile at the ridge, there will be some tolerance in gauge. Have you put a tilt fillet on, or a fascia ?

Yes I have the gauge (max and min) from the tile datasheet (datasheets are like electroncs so very much home turf!). I was planning to make a spacer then as long as the first row are level all should be will.

I must confess I had not heard of a tilt fillet until your post, I will get down to the roofing store in the morning and pick some up.

Thank you again for your help with what is for me uncharted teritory.

Ben

[Aluminati]

BigBen said:

Yes I have the gauge (max and min) from the tile datasheet (datasheets are like electroncs so very much home turf!). I was planning to make a spacer then as long as the first row are level all should be will.

I must confess I had not heard of a tilt fillet until your post, I will get down to the roofing store in the morning and pick some up.

Thank you again for your help with what is for me uncharted teritory.

Ben

Most welcome Feel free to give me a bell anytime if you get stuck.