Child’s first fish(es)
Discussion
Get some Seachem Stability asap. It contains bacteria that set up home in that tank and help to keep the water in good condition. It's good stuff.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seachem-Stability-Tank-St...
Don't bother with Fluval Cycle that they sell in Pets at Home, it doesn't seem to work.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seachem-Stability-Tank-St...
Don't bother with Fluval Cycle that they sell in Pets at Home, it doesn't seem to work.
I am a bit sceptical of the bacteria in a bottle products, but Dr Tim’s seems to be based on sound science. If I remember rightly, his PhD was on nitrifying bacteria and he found that the species typically sold were sewage plant species which are optimal for levels of ammonia you never see in a fish tank.
Crossflow Kid said:
Five days, with some tap-safe additive and the filter running.
If you looked at it, you wouldn’t think “Geez, that’s cloudy”, but I’ve noticed it as I’ve seen it when it was completely clear.
We’re thinking of adding a couple more fish too as I wonder if they’re hiding lots due to there only being three of them and thus too much open water for them to feel safe.
Just because you've not killed them yet doesn't mean they have ideal conditions. If you looked at it, you wouldn’t think “Geez, that’s cloudy”, but I’ve noticed it as I’ve seen it when it was completely clear.
We’re thinking of adding a couple more fish too as I wonder if they’re hiding lots due to there only being three of them and thus too much open water for them to feel safe.
Platys are hardy, but not immortal. Give the filter 4-6 weeks to mature before adding any more fish.
Definitely need to add some bacteria - and if you've got the fluval water conditioner some more of that to assist with slime coat in adverse conditions...
Water chemistry seems tricky, but isn't really.
First, treat to make safe (you'll see why in a sec). No chlorine or chloramine.
Then, mechanical filtration - the figure of 8 block of foam. Removes 'bits'.
'Bits' decompose into ammonia. Really bad. Fortunately, there are a tonne of ammonia eating bacteria in a mature tank which eat ammonia, and 'piss' nitrite.
Nitrite is also pretty bad. Again, fortunately there are a tonne of nitrite eating bacteria in a mature tank/filter (they live in the tiny holes of the ceramic tubes nestled in the figure 8 foam). Eat nitrite, 'piss' nitrate.
Nitrate isn't so bad (but high levels will kill fish) - and can only really be removed through one of two ways, either water changes, or plants using it as food.
So get some bacteria in there! The tap water had chlorine in to kill it off - you've removed the chlorine but not given the bacteria a chance to multiply, which will mean higher than wanted levels of ammonia and nitrite. No more fish either - they're adding to the ammonia production constantly...
Once established, then you don't have to worry so much, the bacteria colonies are effectively self regulating.
(comments about figure 8 foam based on assumption you've got a fluval flex - pic of mine below with Siamese Fighter, school of celestial pearl Danios, 3 Otocinclus and 6 immense greedy b
d amano shrimp)
3rd stage of filtration is usually carbon - it's job is to remove chemicals from the water, not 'waste' as such.
Water chemistry seems tricky, but isn't really.
First, treat to make safe (you'll see why in a sec). No chlorine or chloramine.
Then, mechanical filtration - the figure of 8 block of foam. Removes 'bits'.
'Bits' decompose into ammonia. Really bad. Fortunately, there are a tonne of ammonia eating bacteria in a mature tank which eat ammonia, and 'piss' nitrite.
Nitrite is also pretty bad. Again, fortunately there are a tonne of nitrite eating bacteria in a mature tank/filter (they live in the tiny holes of the ceramic tubes nestled in the figure 8 foam). Eat nitrite, 'piss' nitrate.
Nitrate isn't so bad (but high levels will kill fish) - and can only really be removed through one of two ways, either water changes, or plants using it as food.
So get some bacteria in there! The tap water had chlorine in to kill it off - you've removed the chlorine but not given the bacteria a chance to multiply, which will mean higher than wanted levels of ammonia and nitrite. No more fish either - they're adding to the ammonia production constantly...
Once established, then you don't have to worry so much, the bacteria colonies are effectively self regulating.
(comments about figure 8 foam based on assumption you've got a fluval flex - pic of mine below with Siamese Fighter, school of celestial pearl Danios, 3 Otocinclus and 6 immense greedy b
d amano shrimp) 3rd stage of filtration is usually carbon - it's job is to remove chemicals from the water, not 'waste' as such.
Change 25% of the water straight away (use dechlorinator) and keep changing some all this week.
Try and get a culture and / or a fish safe start product.
A pinch of table salt can actually reduce the affect of nitrite and ammonia. Don’t feed much, just a tiny amount every 2-3 days until it fully cycles.
Try and get a culture and / or a fish safe start product.
A pinch of table salt can actually reduce the affect of nitrite and ammonia. Don’t feed much, just a tiny amount every 2-3 days until it fully cycles.
Caddyshack said:
Change 25% of the water straight away (use dechlorinator) and keep changing some all this week.
Try and get a culture and / or a fish safe start product.
A pinch of table salt can actually reduce the affect of nitrite and ammonia. Don’t feed much, just a tiny amount every 2-3 days until it fully cycles.
Do this ^Try and get a culture and / or a fish safe start product.
A pinch of table salt can actually reduce the affect of nitrite and ammonia. Don’t feed much, just a tiny amount every 2-3 days until it fully cycles.
Sway said:
3rd stage of filtration is usually carbon - it's job is to remove chemicals from the water, not 'waste' as such.
Nice tank. The vast majority of what carbon removes are organic waste compounds like tannins which are what turns the water yellow over time and makes the tank smell.
budgie smuggler said:
Nice tank.
The vast majority of what carbon removes are organic waste compounds like tannins which are what turns the water yellow over time and makes the tank smell.
Thanks, desperately needs a trim - but waiting until the weekend when I'll finally be able to fill my bargainous Aquaoak Large Cube, so can transplant the cuttings across. Should probably setup a thread... The vast majority of what carbon removes are organic waste compounds like tannins which are what turns the water yellow over time and makes the tank smell.
Thanks for all the advice.
Update for you.....
Marshmallow, Grace and Lemon have all woken up a bit in the last few days and spend more time visible than hiding. Water has returned to being totally clear now, although I have spotted a small patch of fuzz starting to grow on some of the gravel.
Ordered some Seachem Stability from Amazon who are adamant they delivered it on Tuesday. But guess what?
Can’t seen to find a local stockist to buy it in store.
Will be cleaning out the fuzz and changing some of the water in a bit.....
Update for you.....
Marshmallow, Grace and Lemon have all woken up a bit in the last few days and spend more time visible than hiding. Water has returned to being totally clear now, although I have spotted a small patch of fuzz starting to grow on some of the gravel.
Ordered some Seachem Stability from Amazon who are adamant they delivered it on Tuesday. But guess what?
Can’t seen to find a local stockist to buy it in store.
Will be cleaning out the fuzz and changing some of the water in a bit.....
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