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They're breeding. I've got at least three species of fry in the tank.
Also, I can't be arsed fixing that photo of the planted tank so it doesn't appear upside down. I don't know if it's an iPhone thing or a PH thing, but it's really annoying. Just imagine that they are Australian species.
Also, I can't be arsed fixing that photo of the planted tank so it doesn't appear upside down. I don't know if it's an iPhone thing or a PH thing, but it's really annoying. Just imagine that they are Australian species.
Got my nano planted and filled last night - 7 pots of the 1-2-Grow went a really long way, I'm glad I only went with a 3 stone layout as even that was a squeeze to get all the plants in, took about 4 hours I think and my back is ruined 
FInished pretty late so I left the light on about 5% over night, I want to give the plants (especially the Monte Carlo at the front) a chance to settle and take root before running the filter as I fear it may lift some of them out..
Just got the CO2 to install now my solenoid and timer plug has arrived from Amazon
FInished pretty late so I left the light on about 5% over night, I want to give the plants (especially the Monte Carlo at the front) a chance to settle and take root before running the filter as I fear it may lift some of them out..
Just got the CO2 to install now my solenoid and timer plug has arrived from Amazon
anxious_ant said:
I don’t suppose anyone here know a good place to buy genuine Marimos balls online?
It's been a few years since I had a tropical tank, but I bought a couple of large specimens from Wharf Aquatics, near Nottingham. They do Mail Order so may be worth a call, as the quality of their shop stock is generally very good.https://www.wharfaquatics.co.uk/aquarium-plants.ht...
S11Steve said:
It's been a few years since I had a tropical tank, but I bought a couple of large specimens from Wharf Aquatics, near Nottingham. They do Mail Order so may be worth a call, as the quality of their shop stock is generally very good.
https://www.wharfaquatics.co.uk/aquarium-plants.ht...
Cheer bud, I'll have a look.https://www.wharfaquatics.co.uk/aquarium-plants.ht...
Made the mistake of ordering "genuine" marimos balls from Amazon. What a waste of money...
Unfortunately I only have 1 LFS locally (Pet@Home doesn't count :P) and they don't have marimos.
We have developed Black Brush algae in our tank.
It's started on the plants, rocks and ornaments.
I'm assuming it's associated with varing CO2 levels? The lights go on and off with a timer, they're on all day so don't know if that isn't helping.
Don't really want to start with CO2 injection.
Hoping some Siamese algea eaters will help but not really solving the root cause so not sure what to do after that.
It's started on the plants, rocks and ornaments.
I'm assuming it's associated with varing CO2 levels? The lights go on and off with a timer, they're on all day so don't know if that isn't helping.
Don't really want to start with CO2 injection.
Hoping some Siamese algea eaters will help but not really solving the root cause so not sure what to do after that.
ChocolateFrog said:
We have developed Black Brush algae in our tank.
It's started on the plants, rocks and ornaments.
I'm assuming it's associated with varing CO2 levels? The lights go on and off with a timer, they're on all day so don't know if that isn't helping.
Don't really want to start with CO2 injection.
Hoping some Siamese algea eaters will help but not really solving the root cause so not sure what to do after that.
You may have already seen this but I'll copy it over from the UKAPS forums for reference here:It's started on the plants, rocks and ornaments.
I'm assuming it's associated with varing CO2 levels? The lights go on and off with a timer, they're on all day so don't know if that isn't helping.
Don't really want to start with CO2 injection.
Hoping some Siamese algea eaters will help but not really solving the root cause so not sure what to do after that.
UKAPS said:
Black brush, or BBA, algae can be one of a number of specific genera of “red” algae in the Rhodophyta family. Most of the algae in this family are actually marine, but a few freshwater species exist that particularly target our planted aquariums. This algae may be black, brown, red, or green in coloration, and can quickly coat your plants and hardscape if not kept in check.
Cause:
Cause:
- Nutrient Imbalance - potentially excess N, P, Fe. Strive for the following nutrient levels: N (10-20ppm), P (0.5-2ppm), K (10-20ppm), Ca (10-30ppm), Mg (2-5ppm), Fe (.1ppm).
- Low pH - Neil Frank observes that African Rift tanks never have BBA. It’s believed that BBA thrives in acidic environments, which is unfortunately what most plants prefer.
- Increase CO2 - This will stimulate plant growth, which should help the plants out-compete the algae for resources.
- Excel/H202 treatment - Use a syringe to spot treat problem areas. Then manually remove when BBA turns grey/white.
- Manual removal - Use toothbrush to remove as much as possible.
- Bleach treatment - Dip affected hardscape items/hardy plants in a bleach/water solution using a 1:20 ratio of bleach to water. Before putting them back into the tank, make sure the item is free of bleach odor.
- OxiClean treatment - Dip affected hardscape items in a OxiClean solution, making sure you only use the original OxiClean with no other additives.
- Maintain proper water change/dosing schedule - weekly / bi-weekly changes.
- Algae Crew - Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE) and Amano shrimp are known to eat this algae.
- Copper (not recommended) - There are commercial algaecides containing copper that will kill BBA, but they will mostly likely also kill your plants.
Might need bit of advice here. About 4 days ago noticed one of my Neon Tetras was swimming with her head upwards. Her belly was pretty swollen.
Fearing the worse I quickly quarantined here in a small make shift plastic tank. It's about 8"x6" wide and 6" high.
I've put some floating plants and also added small air stone for aeration. I tried to feed her but hard to get her to ear due to way she is swimming.
Below is the picture I took on the night I quarantined her. She is still swimming head up today. If she is pregnant how long does it take for her to spawn?
Fearing the worse I quickly quarantined here in a small make shift plastic tank. It's about 8"x6" wide and 6" high.
I've put some floating plants and also added small air stone for aeration. I tried to feed her but hard to get her to ear due to way she is swimming.
Below is the picture I took on the night I quarantined her. She is still swimming head up today. If she is pregnant how long does it take for her to spawn?
ChocolateFrog said:
Turn7 said:
Nitrate levels ?
Between 40-50ppm.Water changes, and if poss something that'll really start absorbing and utilising that nitrate - plant growth.
Floating plants are great as they'll use atmospheric CO2.
If not, at least in the short term something like the tropica cheap system is actually pretty good. Little aerosol of CO2, and a simple doser/diffuser that sits in the corner and is set once a day in the morning.
smithyithy said:
ChocolateFrog said:
We have developed Black Brush algae in our tank.
It's started on the plants, rocks and ornaments.
I'm assuming it's associated with varing CO2 levels? The lights go on and off with a timer, they're on all day so don't know if that isn't helping.
Don't really want to start with CO2 injection.
Hoping some Siamese algea eaters will help but not really solving the root cause so not sure what to do after that.
You may have already seen this but I'll copy it over from the UKAPS forums for reference here:It's started on the plants, rocks and ornaments.
I'm assuming it's associated with varing CO2 levels? The lights go on and off with a timer, they're on all day so don't know if that isn't helping.
Don't really want to start with CO2 injection.
Hoping some Siamese algea eaters will help but not really solving the root cause so not sure what to do after that.
UKAPS said:
Black brush, or BBA, algae can be one of a number of specific genera of “red” algae in the Rhodophyta family. Most of the algae in this family are actually marine, but a few freshwater species exist that particularly target our planted aquariums. This algae may be black, brown, red, or green in coloration, and can quickly coat your plants and hardscape if not kept in check.
Cause:
Cause:
- Nutrient Imbalance - potentially excess N, P, Fe. Strive for the following nutrient levels: N (10-20ppm), P (0.5-2ppm), K (10-20ppm), Ca (10-30ppm), Mg (2-5ppm), Fe (.1ppm).
- Low pH - Neil Frank observes that African Rift tanks never have BBA. It’s believed that BBA thrives in acidic environments, which is unfortunately what most plants prefer.
- Increase CO2 - This will stimulate plant growth, which should help the plants out-compete the algae for resources.
- Excel/H202 treatment - Use a syringe to spot treat problem areas. Then manually remove when BBA turns grey/white.
- Manual removal - Use toothbrush to remove as much as possible.
- Bleach treatment - Dip affected hardscape items/hardy plants in a bleach/water solution using a 1:20 ratio of bleach to water. Before putting them back into the tank, make sure the item is free of bleach odor.
- OxiClean treatment - Dip affected hardscape items in a OxiClean solution, making sure you only use the original OxiClean with no other additives.
- Maintain proper water change/dosing schedule - weekly / bi-weekly changes.
- Algae Crew - Siamese Algae Eaters (SAE) and Amano shrimp are known to eat this algae.
- Copper (not recommended) - There are commercial algaecides containing copper that will kill BBA, but they will mostly likely also kill your plants.
Had a go at manual removal but the stuff is welded on, would damage the plants I think and definitely would need more than a toothbrush.
We've bought a few of algea fish.
Will see how they get on for a few days then if need pull the hard scape out for a proper clean.
Sway said:
ChocolateFrog said:
Turn7 said:
Nitrate levels ?
Between 40-50ppm.Water changes, and if poss something that'll really start absorbing and utilising that nitrate - plant growth.
Floating plants are great as they'll use atmospheric CO2.
If not, at least in the short term something like the tropica cheap system is actually pretty good. Little aerosol of CO2, and a simple doser/diffuser that sits in the corner and is set once a day in the morning.
Sway said:
ChocolateFrog said:
Turn7 said:
Nitrate levels ?
Between 40-50ppm.Water changes, and if poss something that'll really start absorbing and utilising that nitrate - plant growth.
Floating plants are great as they'll use atmospheric CO2.
If not, at least in the short term something like the tropica cheap system is actually pretty good. Little aerosol of CO2, and a simple doser/diffuser that sits in the corner and is set once a day in the morning.
ChocolateFrog said:
Sway said:
ChocolateFrog said:
Turn7 said:
Nitrate levels ?
Between 40-50ppm.Water changes, and if poss something that'll really start absorbing and utilising that nitrate - plant growth.
Floating plants are great as they'll use atmospheric CO2.
If not, at least in the short term something like the tropica cheap system is actually pretty good. Little aerosol of CO2, and a simple doser/diffuser that sits in the corner and is set once a day in the morning.
Ended up with a canister of this stuff to run tap water throu - zero Nitrate post resin.....
https://www.devotedly-discus.co.uk/acatalog/A-520-...
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