‘Re-training’ a two year old dog
Discussion
We’ve had Murphy since he was a puppy and for six months of his early life we had training with the local dogs trust who were very good.
We’ve always tried to be consistent with words and firm commands however he has recently started to ignore commands to return. When he runs off it’s either to play with other dogs, or go and ‘talk’ to horses which obviously upsets their riders. He does not respond to the whistle or ‘come’ command until he wants to.
We’ve now got a long lead (10m) and are using it to give him room to explore when we’re out walking, but can reel him in if we get close to anyone else. We use the same commands and try to make sure he doesn’t lunge at other dogs or people.
Thoughts/advice on making sure he returns on command, not when he’s finished playing?
We’ve always tried to be consistent with words and firm commands however he has recently started to ignore commands to return. When he runs off it’s either to play with other dogs, or go and ‘talk’ to horses which obviously upsets their riders. He does not respond to the whistle or ‘come’ command until he wants to.
We’ve now got a long lead (10m) and are using it to give him room to explore when we’re out walking, but can reel him in if we get close to anyone else. We use the same commands and try to make sure he doesn’t lunge at other dogs or people.
Thoughts/advice on making sure he returns on command, not when he’s finished playing?
That's a lovely looking Murphy dog you have there.
Treats - My 10 year old dog can be headstrong at times but I reinforce his training from time to time with new and improved treats and a new phrase. At the moment "this way for good dogs" seems to work.
It sounds like your dog is currently finding other things e.g - dogs, play, horses, more interesting and fun than you. Work on reversing that and you should find it getting easier. Also you don't mention how much exercise Murphy gets, has the amount of exercise dropped? Or does Murphy need a bit more time out and about, and in a more stimulating environment?
Treats - My 10 year old dog can be headstrong at times but I reinforce his training from time to time with new and improved treats and a new phrase. At the moment "this way for good dogs" seems to work.
It sounds like your dog is currently finding other things e.g - dogs, play, horses, more interesting and fun than you. Work on reversing that and you should find it getting easier. Also you don't mention how much exercise Murphy gets, has the amount of exercise dropped? Or does Murphy need a bit more time out and about, and in a more stimulating environment?
OK - recall!
Murphy is gorgeous and very handsome indeed
What breed is he? I've assumed Labradoodle?
It is like a savings account or pension..... you need to keep topping up the value of your recall cue and the value in YOU.
Quite frankly you are not as interesting as wildlife/other dogs/scent sniffing. Your dog is also older and more confident.
Most of the time humans have considered training as 'done' but failed to maintain training. I would liken this to learning to play the piano - if you do not play for 10 years, you still have the knowledge in there but you are gonna hit bum notes for a while till you have practised again - you may even get frustrated and bored and disengage if you are given difficult pieces that you cannot play and the tutor shouts at you for not understanding..
Where dogs have lost their skills they it's fairly straightforward to re-establish if they were taught well initially. If you want to start from scratch that is also fine (eg if a cue has been poisoned by repeated failure). However also don't forget your dog will also pick up on any stress/frustration and be less willing to return. So it is important to always be positive.
There is a whole heap of stuff I could suggest but my favourite method (and how I teach it) is very simple and offered online by a trainer friend- I will pop the link at the end.
To retrain you will need to commit to having your dog back on lead at ALL times for about 4-6 weeks (while you pay back into the piggy bank and do the work and make sure your dog ALWAYS succeeds throughout the course).
You will teach your dog a series of really exciting games - but your dog will never know which one you are going to play. Each game 'may or may not' include High Value treats (because you do not want to become reliant on this).
You need to build your skills gradually and learn to never 'waste' a recall practise (and success) by recalling when your dog has disengaged from you - EG if the doorbell rings and you are in the middle of the game, don't call your dog when he is more interested at the door. It is really important that during the training your dog always gets it right. Gradually you start increasing the difficulty. You need to overcome any awkwardness you have about being great fun and vocal with your dog - it makes a huge difference when people genuinely get excited and praise their dogs. A 'good boy' said in the same tone as you speak to your bank is NOT rewarding to your dog. Learn to be a children's entertainer
You start in 1 room in the home and then 2 and then garden, etc etc, ensuring that your dog ALWAYS succeeds before moving on to the next stage... practise practise practise - include all the family... then you take your dog to small enclosed spaces to practise but again, be aware of things your dog will find distracting - - don't 'test' your dog too soon.... observe your dog...... increase the difficulty just gradually (so an open field first and then the woods) you are looking to build what is known as a 'conditioned emotional response' that is hardwired and your dog doesn't even think about it... when he hears that word he spins on the spot because GOOD STUFF happens by you.
Once you have a invested the time and acquired a great response to this word - it is a balance - don't let it fade but don't overuse it, whenever you practise make sure you always pay out (either a treat or a game) some people keep on badgering their dogs when they are sniffing - they learn to ignore you - your dog must feel like it has a surprise present when you call it, not bored of you because you keep asking but never paying.
A trainer friend of mine Kay Attwood runs this method online over 4 weeks it is really straightforward and fun and easy to follow. The whole family can join in and not only will you transform your recall but you will learn more about your dog and reinvigorate your bond and relationship. I have worked closely with Kay in the past and I know her well - she is highly recommended
https://www.kay9services.co.uk/workshops/recall-wo...
Hope this is helpful if anything is not clear just ask. I am not used to explaining things in text, so if I haven't explained clearly please let me know.
Have you found the Dog Wiki I am creating? Please feel free to PM me if there is anything else that you would find useful to include in that library
- If you did this recall work and you found that there was a specific stimulus that Murphy was finding really hard to ignore (eg horses) then I would look at addressing that specific issue in isolation with a trainer. I know trainers who specifically offer horse workshops where the horses are 'known' (bombproof) and they are contained in a secure field and they offer training in the adjacent field for dogs (either 1:1 or in a group) - over a period of weeks the horses become more 'exciting' ie being exercised on a lunge rein and the dogs learn to ignore build their confidence and exposure gradually.
Often the key to training is breaking it down.
Murphy is gorgeous and very handsome indeed
What breed is he? I've assumed Labradoodle?It is like a savings account or pension..... you need to keep topping up the value of your recall cue and the value in YOU.
Quite frankly you are not as interesting as wildlife/other dogs/scent sniffing. Your dog is also older and more confident.
Most of the time humans have considered training as 'done' but failed to maintain training. I would liken this to learning to play the piano - if you do not play for 10 years, you still have the knowledge in there but you are gonna hit bum notes for a while till you have practised again - you may even get frustrated and bored and disengage if you are given difficult pieces that you cannot play and the tutor shouts at you for not understanding..
Where dogs have lost their skills they it's fairly straightforward to re-establish if they were taught well initially. If you want to start from scratch that is also fine (eg if a cue has been poisoned by repeated failure). However also don't forget your dog will also pick up on any stress/frustration and be less willing to return. So it is important to always be positive.
There is a whole heap of stuff I could suggest but my favourite method (and how I teach it) is very simple and offered online by a trainer friend- I will pop the link at the end.
To retrain you will need to commit to having your dog back on lead at ALL times for about 4-6 weeks (while you pay back into the piggy bank and do the work and make sure your dog ALWAYS succeeds throughout the course).
You will teach your dog a series of really exciting games - but your dog will never know which one you are going to play. Each game 'may or may not' include High Value treats (because you do not want to become reliant on this).
You need to build your skills gradually and learn to never 'waste' a recall practise (and success) by recalling when your dog has disengaged from you - EG if the doorbell rings and you are in the middle of the game, don't call your dog when he is more interested at the door. It is really important that during the training your dog always gets it right. Gradually you start increasing the difficulty. You need to overcome any awkwardness you have about being great fun and vocal with your dog - it makes a huge difference when people genuinely get excited and praise their dogs. A 'good boy' said in the same tone as you speak to your bank is NOT rewarding to your dog.
Learn to be a children's entertainer You start in 1 room in the home and then 2 and then garden, etc etc, ensuring that your dog ALWAYS succeeds before moving on to the next stage... practise practise practise - include all the family... then you take your dog to small enclosed spaces to practise but again, be aware of things your dog will find distracting - - don't 'test' your dog too soon.... observe your dog...... increase the difficulty just gradually (so an open field first and then the woods) you are looking to build what is known as a 'conditioned emotional response' that is hardwired and your dog doesn't even think about it... when he hears that word he spins on the spot because GOOD STUFF happens by you.
Once you have a invested the time and acquired a great response to this word - it is a balance - don't let it fade but don't overuse it, whenever you practise make sure you always pay out (either a treat or a game) some people keep on badgering their dogs when they are sniffing - they learn to ignore you - your dog must feel like it has a surprise present when you call it, not bored of you because you keep asking but never paying.
A trainer friend of mine Kay Attwood runs this method online over 4 weeks it is really straightforward and fun and easy to follow. The whole family can join in and not only will you transform your recall but you will learn more about your dog and reinvigorate your bond and relationship. I have worked closely with Kay in the past and I know her well - she is highly recommended
https://www.kay9services.co.uk/workshops/recall-wo...
Hope this is helpful
if anything is not clear just ask. I am not used to explaining things in text, so if I haven't explained clearly please let me know. Have you found the Dog Wiki I am creating? Please feel free to PM me if there is anything else that you would find useful to include in that library
- ** ETA
- If you did this recall work and you found that there was a specific stimulus that Murphy was finding really hard to ignore (eg horses) then I would look at addressing that specific issue in isolation with a trainer. I know trainers who specifically offer horse workshops where the horses are 'known' (bombproof) and they are contained in a secure field and they offer training in the adjacent field for dogs (either 1:1 or in a group) - over a period of weeks the horses become more 'exciting' ie being exercised on a lunge rein and the dogs learn to ignore build their confidence and exposure gradually.
Often the key to training is breaking it down.
Edited by parakitaMol. on Sunday 21st February 12:32
Edited by parakitaMol. on Monday 22 February 08:52
parakitaMol. said:
OK - recall!
Murphy is gorgeous and very handsome indeed
.....
A trainer friend of mine Kay Attwood runs this method online over 4 weeks it is really straightforward and fun and easy to follow. The whole family can join in and not only will you transform your recall but you will learn more about your dog and reinvigorate your bond and relationship. I have worked closely with Kay in the past and I know her well - she is highly recommended
https://www.kay9services.co.uk/workshops/recall-wo...
Hope this is helpful if anything is not clear just ask. I am not used to explaining things in text, so if I haven't explained clearly please let me know.
Have you found the Dog Wiki I am creating? Please feel free to PM me if there is anything else that you would find useful to include in that library
HiMurphy is gorgeous and very handsome indeed
.....
A trainer friend of mine Kay Attwood runs this method online over 4 weeks it is really straightforward and fun and easy to follow. The whole family can join in and not only will you transform your recall but you will learn more about your dog and reinvigorate your bond and relationship. I have worked closely with Kay in the past and I know her well - she is highly recommended
https://www.kay9services.co.uk/workshops/recall-wo...
Hope this is helpful
if anything is not clear just ask. I am not used to explaining things in text, so if I haven't explained clearly please let me know. Have you found the Dog Wiki I am creating? Please feel free to PM me if there is anything else that you would find useful to include in that library
Edited by parakitaMol. on Sunday 21st February 12:32
I signed up for this course following parakitaMol‘s recommendation on here, did the first of three live sessions yesterday.
Was tremendous fun that both Ziggy (4 1/2 month lab) and I enjoyed, thoroughly recommended.
Ranger 6 said:
parakitaMol. said:
Lots of very good stuff
Many thanks - I will take time to build on what we've done and your suggestions. Looks like Kay9 is close enough to be convenient - we take him out to the woods round Ash ranges Yes, he's a Labradoodle
Cheers - the local horses get 'conditioning' training when he stands at the gate and barks at them going past.
We're surrounded by two Polo clubs, two other stables and a large well known Middle Eastern Sheik's racing stables so there's no end of 'targets' for him and it would be good to reduce his fixation.
We're surrounded by two Polo clubs, two other stables and a large well known Middle Eastern Sheik's racing stables so there's no end of 'targets' for him and it would be good to reduce his fixation.
Ahhh yeah it's gonna be less stressful for him if he can learn to ignore them.
My friend Angela Doyle runs the horse workshops, they are listed here on her website =- she said it's a bit brief but if you want to know more then drop her a line - hopefully normal training will resume before too long
https://www.politepawsdogtraining.co.uk/workshops/
My friend Angela Doyle runs the horse workshops, they are listed here on her website =- she said it's a bit brief but if you want to know more then drop her a line - hopefully normal training will resume before too long
https://www.politepawsdogtraining.co.uk/workshops/
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