The BIG India train trip... have you done one?
Discussion
Over the last few years , we have done several big trips to various places on our globe, from Oz and NZ, to the USA/Carib and the EU....but its back to India for the full monty before we get too old!
We have had 2 two week holidays in Goa over the NY period and had a jolly good time, 1 each in the north and t'other in the south. It was 20 years ago. But as I wrote earlier, this time we wish to travel for 2 ish months.
Initial thoughts are to set off between Xmas and NY, get some serious Vitamin D in and then travel. So maybe start in Kerala for a couple of weeks, up to Goa for another couple then set off late Jan/early Feb 2025. The route....west to east was an initial idea. Up to Mumbai and then ......
Udaipur----Jodhpur----Jaisalmar---Amritsar----Dehli----Agra----Lucknow----Varanasi-----Darjeeling----Kolkata and fly home.
Would love to hear from anyone that has done a big train journey...similar-- to this. Maybe some sections will need a bus journey...Especially into/out of Jaisalmar. We dont intend any internal flights at all. 3/4 days in each city seems enough. Over night sleeps for the long sections. I love "The man in seat 61's" website and see he recommends using 12goasia for booking ahead of time which seems to also be recommended. Ideas/thoughts appreciated.
We have had 2 two week holidays in Goa over the NY period and had a jolly good time, 1 each in the north and t'other in the south. It was 20 years ago. But as I wrote earlier, this time we wish to travel for 2 ish months.
Initial thoughts are to set off between Xmas and NY, get some serious Vitamin D in and then travel. So maybe start in Kerala for a couple of weeks, up to Goa for another couple then set off late Jan/early Feb 2025. The route....west to east was an initial idea. Up to Mumbai and then ......
Udaipur----Jodhpur----Jaisalmar---Amritsar----Dehli----Agra----Lucknow----Varanasi-----Darjeeling----Kolkata and fly home.
Would love to hear from anyone that has done a big train journey...similar-- to this. Maybe some sections will need a bus journey...Especially into/out of Jaisalmar. We dont intend any internal flights at all. 3/4 days in each city seems enough. Over night sleeps for the long sections. I love "The man in seat 61's" website and see he recommends using 12goasia for booking ahead of time which seems to also be recommended. Ideas/thoughts appreciated.
I caught a train from Goa to Mumbai about 20 years ago, it took about 11hrs and was a memorable experience.
It cost about 4 quid which included a chicken biryani which to this day is one if the best things I've eaten.
The train didn't really get above 50 mph at a guess and the doors were all open. I sat dangling my feet over the track and watched the country pass by which was fabulous. I didn't venture near a toilet!
It cost about 4 quid which included a chicken biryani which to this day is one if the best things I've eaten.
The train didn't really get above 50 mph at a guess and the doors were all open. I sat dangling my feet over the track and watched the country pass by which was fabulous. I didn't venture near a toilet!
About 15 years ago I did a few.
Delhi to Jaipur to Agra to Varanasi and Mumbai to Goa.
Food on the trains was basic but really good, and plenty of chai sellers. We did some first class with AC, and some third class. The third class was so much better all round, as there are open doors and windows, so you're not in an artificial cocoon and you can sit with your legs dangling outside watching the Indian countryside pass by, a memory that I will have all my life.
Overnight sleeper we had a shared compartment and got to share with some interesting people. Again...basic but functional.
Don't know if they still post passenger lists on the outside of the carriages.
Toilets ranged from ok to grim, but if you gotta go...
Delhi to Jaipur to Agra to Varanasi and Mumbai to Goa.
Food on the trains was basic but really good, and plenty of chai sellers. We did some first class with AC, and some third class. The third class was so much better all round, as there are open doors and windows, so you're not in an artificial cocoon and you can sit with your legs dangling outside watching the Indian countryside pass by, a memory that I will have all my life.
Overnight sleeper we had a shared compartment and got to share with some interesting people. Again...basic but functional.
Don't know if they still post passenger lists on the outside of the carriages.
Toilets ranged from ok to grim, but if you gotta go...
We did a train trip with Great Rail. It is with a group and you have a group leader. Having never been to India before, we took an easy option.
The package was called the Golden Triangle and included the toy train to Shimla. All the hotels were 4 & 5 star.
To be fair, we priced up the tour doing it independently and it came home more than we paid.
Oh, and no one got Delhi belly.
Brilliant holiday including the Taj Mahal, Red Fort etc.
ETA link
https://www.greatrail.com/tours/five-star-indias-g...
The package was called the Golden Triangle and included the toy train to Shimla. All the hotels were 4 & 5 star.
To be fair, we priced up the tour doing it independently and it came home more than we paid.
Oh, and no one got Delhi belly.
Brilliant holiday including the Taj Mahal, Red Fort etc.
ETA link
https://www.greatrail.com/tours/five-star-indias-g...
Edited by Slow.Patrol on Friday 8th March 19:41
Slow.Patrol said:
We did a train trip with Great Rail. It is with a group and you have a group leader. Having never been to India before, we took an easy option.
The package was called the Golden Triangle and included the toy train to Shimla. All the hotels were 4 & 5 star.
To be fair, we priced up the tour doing it independently and it came home more than we paid.
Oh, and no one got Delhi belly.
Brilliant holiday including the Taj Mahal, Red Fort etc.
ETA link
https://www.greatrail.com/tours/five-star-indias-g...
We used Great Rail for a similar trip, although our's didn't include Shimla because we went down to Mumbai. Very good trip and we're now considering their Southern India and Kerala tour. The package was called the Golden Triangle and included the toy train to Shimla. All the hotels were 4 & 5 star.
To be fair, we priced up the tour doing it independently and it came home more than we paid.
Oh, and no one got Delhi belly.
Brilliant holiday including the Taj Mahal, Red Fort etc.
ETA link
https://www.greatrail.com/tours/five-star-indias-g...
Edited by Slow.Patrol on Friday 8th March 19:41
3454.5 said:
We used Great Rail for a similar trip, although our's didn't include Shimla because we went down to Mumbai. Very good trip and we're now considering their Southern India and Kerala tour.
We are doing Vietnam and Cambodia with them later in the year. Good value and well organised. It is nice to sit back and let someone else do the planning occasionally. Slow.Patrol said:
3454.5 said:
We used Great Rail for a similar trip, although our's didn't include Shimla because we went down to Mumbai. Very good trip and we're now considering their Southern India and Kerala tour.
We are doing Vietnam and Cambodia with them later in the year. Good value and well organised. It is nice to sit back and let someone else do the planning occasionally. Slow.Patrol said:
We did a train trip with Great Rail. It is with a group and you have a group leader. Having never been to India before, we took an easy option.
The package was called the Golden Triangle and included the toy train to Shimla. All the hotels were 4 & 5 star.
To be fair, we priced up the tour doing it independently and it came home more than we paid.
Oh, and no one got Delhi belly.
Brilliant holiday including the Taj Mahal, Red Fort etc.
ETA link
https://www.greatrail.com/tours/five-star-indias-g...
Too short, too quick.....The package was called the Golden Triangle and included the toy train to Shimla. All the hotels were 4 & 5 star.
To be fair, we priced up the tour doing it independently and it came home more than we paid.
Oh, and no one got Delhi belly.
Brilliant holiday including the Taj Mahal, Red Fort etc.
ETA link
https://www.greatrail.com/tours/five-star-indias-g...
Edited by Slow.Patrol on Friday 8th March 19:41
Last Sept/Oct, Mrs DG and I travelled around China and Vietnam for five weeks. We found travel in Vietnam by train very easy, mainly travelling in the day for sight seeing.
While I wouldn’t call it backpacking, it was certainly done on a budget, (I’m mid 60’s) with restricted mobility.
While I would love to go to India, Mrs DG would not; she has justifiable concerns over her own safety. Her wishes come first and foremost.
This year we are planning on Yunan →Myanmar (situation dependent) → Laos →Thailand → Cambodia → Vietnam →Guangxi (not necessarily in that order). Flights/trains in China, bus Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia, Train Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam.
Travel in Laos and Cambodia seems like it will be a challenge, Myanmar we may just dip in and out of, anyway got 6 months to plan it. OP, would be very interested on your experiences of travel in Laos and Cambodia.
While I wouldn’t call it backpacking, it was certainly done on a budget, (I’m mid 60’s) with restricted mobility.
While I would love to go to India, Mrs DG would not; she has justifiable concerns over her own safety. Her wishes come first and foremost.
This year we are planning on Yunan →Myanmar (situation dependent) → Laos →Thailand → Cambodia → Vietnam →Guangxi (not necessarily in that order). Flights/trains in China, bus Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia, Train Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam.
Travel in Laos and Cambodia seems like it will be a challenge, Myanmar we may just dip in and out of, anyway got 6 months to plan it. OP, would be very interested on your experiences of travel in Laos and Cambodia.
DG. After a month ish in Vietnam, we flew to Phu Quoc for some R n R. Took the ferry to Ha Tien then we found a guy who knew 2 locals that took people on the back of their small motorbikes over the border to Kep. Stayed 3 days then hitched a lift to Kampot. Boat trips and bike trips 3 days. Bus to the Capitol, then another bus to Battambang...3 days, boat across the lake which was fantastic to S Reap. 5 days to do most of whats there....un fecking believable. Was easier "hiring" a guy to drop us 1 side of a temple, then pick us up on the other side and drive to the next one. Like $10 for the day!.
From S R bus to Stung Treng. Just for a 1 day break b4 another bus due north to drop us off at Thakho to pick up a small tuktuk to the river and then onto Don Det. stayed here 4 days, hired bikes to bomb around.
Back to the mainland and bus up to Pakse, coupla days then bus up to Thakek to "do the loop" etc. Bus up to The Capitol. Another bus up to V Veng for some waterrafting etc. Just 3 days. Motorbiking around 1 day. Short hop up to Luang Prabang....very touristy. Boat up the river to Huay Xai....across the border then over 10 days, various buses back to Bangyercock.
We found Travelfish the best by a mile for everything, Agoda for booking hotels etc. and within them for finding travel arrangements. Never had any problems at all, none. Buses were varied between local ones to long distance. roads were awful. Accom...mainly a bit rough at times, but OK in the main. Eating was at times a bit bland. Really really missed milk for a good cup of tea. I am not a coffee man.
From S R bus to Stung Treng. Just for a 1 day break b4 another bus due north to drop us off at Thakho to pick up a small tuktuk to the river and then onto Don Det. stayed here 4 days, hired bikes to bomb around.
Back to the mainland and bus up to Pakse, coupla days then bus up to Thakek to "do the loop" etc. Bus up to The Capitol. Another bus up to V Veng for some waterrafting etc. Just 3 days. Motorbiking around 1 day. Short hop up to Luang Prabang....very touristy. Boat up the river to Huay Xai....across the border then over 10 days, various buses back to Bangyercock.
We found Travelfish the best by a mile for everything, Agoda for booking hotels etc. and within them for finding travel arrangements. Never had any problems at all, none. Buses were varied between local ones to long distance. roads were awful. Accom...mainly a bit rough at times, but OK in the main. Eating was at times a bit bland. Really really missed milk for a good cup of tea. I am not a coffee man.
I travelled overland from Delhi to Chennai last year, taking the train across to Kolkata, and then down the east coast.
First thing is that booking trains is a total PITA! Unless you are extremely determined, then don't even bother trying to get started with the app that the locals use. You need a local phone number, then you need 10 blessings from a variety of Gods just to make everything align with using a correct email address, having a valid phone number and address etc, not having to book through the special tourist part of the app etc etc.
On top of that, there are so many different categories of tickets, some book out immediately, others have you on a waiting list, others yet have you booked in a seat providing that Saturn's orbit coincides favourably with the position of Venus at precisely 12:30 on the 3rd Friday of the month.
Just book your tickets either through the asiago site, or once you are there, there are a tonne of booking agents you can go through who will charge a bit of a commission, but its not bad.
Also if trains are booked out, then consider trains to nearby junctions. Lots of express trains go past big cities without actually going into them, and stop at a big junction on the outskirts with a totally unrelated name. Your hotel receptionist/a local booking agent should be able to help you with that.
Get your tickets as far in advance as possible - the upper classes tend to get booked months in advance and because of the way that the booking system works, people book tickets on 10 different trains, and then cancel 9 of their bookings at the last minute. So you will find yourself on waiting lists for multiple trains if you book late.
Go for 1st or 2nd class. Don't even attempt to go with normal sleeper class.. the carriages are, with no exaggeration, like looking into a cattle market, with people crammed up against the open metal barred windows.
Apart from that, enjoy. In the upper classes, the experience is actually really enjoyable. Don't expect too much luxury - you will get a curtain at least to cover your bed/seat, but treat it like a moving youth hostel/2 star hotel, and its great.
Watching the scenery change is incredible, and you really get a feel for the sheer scale of India. Starting a journey in a desert-like climate, with just shrubs and sand everywhere, and seeing everything gradually change into almost tropical rainforest with a stunning setting sun is something that stays with you.
Generally people are friendly and curious, and surprisingly, they also keep themselves to themselves and will not get nosey-ly into your business unless you invite them to (which can be a very positive experience - some of my best travel moments were a result of visiting temples/towns/places that locals recommended on the journey there).
I forget the name, but there is a taxi app that you can use to hire rickshaws and tuktuks, which is nice to use to avoid the absolute throng of hustlers you will get approaching you every time you leave a station!
EDIT:
Varanasi is stunning! Its utterly filthy but the sheer madness of humanity is there to see in full. Just thinking back to it gives me the shakes. Everything you hear about snake charmers, strange religious men praying in the streets etc etc is totally true. If you are feeling brave, then take a walk through the narrow alleys are few streets back from the river and you will be amazed at the sheer variety of life going on. People cramming into temples, big groups of pilgrims from the countryside all dressed up in their best Indian clothes and washing in the river etc etc.
I would recommend a town called Khajuraho if you can manage the detour.. its on the way to Varanasi, and it has an amazing temple complex, which was well worth visiting imo.
Outside of Varanasi and the smaller towns, you'll find that the cities can be surprisingly modern, with very modern metro systems, particularly in Delhi and Kolkata.
First thing is that booking trains is a total PITA! Unless you are extremely determined, then don't even bother trying to get started with the app that the locals use. You need a local phone number, then you need 10 blessings from a variety of Gods just to make everything align with using a correct email address, having a valid phone number and address etc, not having to book through the special tourist part of the app etc etc.
On top of that, there are so many different categories of tickets, some book out immediately, others have you on a waiting list, others yet have you booked in a seat providing that Saturn's orbit coincides favourably with the position of Venus at precisely 12:30 on the 3rd Friday of the month.
Just book your tickets either through the asiago site, or once you are there, there are a tonne of booking agents you can go through who will charge a bit of a commission, but its not bad.
Also if trains are booked out, then consider trains to nearby junctions. Lots of express trains go past big cities without actually going into them, and stop at a big junction on the outskirts with a totally unrelated name. Your hotel receptionist/a local booking agent should be able to help you with that.
Get your tickets as far in advance as possible - the upper classes tend to get booked months in advance and because of the way that the booking system works, people book tickets on 10 different trains, and then cancel 9 of their bookings at the last minute. So you will find yourself on waiting lists for multiple trains if you book late.
Go for 1st or 2nd class. Don't even attempt to go with normal sleeper class.. the carriages are, with no exaggeration, like looking into a cattle market, with people crammed up against the open metal barred windows.
Apart from that, enjoy. In the upper classes, the experience is actually really enjoyable. Don't expect too much luxury - you will get a curtain at least to cover your bed/seat, but treat it like a moving youth hostel/2 star hotel, and its great.
Watching the scenery change is incredible, and you really get a feel for the sheer scale of India. Starting a journey in a desert-like climate, with just shrubs and sand everywhere, and seeing everything gradually change into almost tropical rainforest with a stunning setting sun is something that stays with you.
Generally people are friendly and curious, and surprisingly, they also keep themselves to themselves and will not get nosey-ly into your business unless you invite them to (which can be a very positive experience - some of my best travel moments were a result of visiting temples/towns/places that locals recommended on the journey there).
I forget the name, but there is a taxi app that you can use to hire rickshaws and tuktuks, which is nice to use to avoid the absolute throng of hustlers you will get approaching you every time you leave a station!
EDIT:
Varanasi is stunning! Its utterly filthy but the sheer madness of humanity is there to see in full. Just thinking back to it gives me the shakes. Everything you hear about snake charmers, strange religious men praying in the streets etc etc is totally true. If you are feeling brave, then take a walk through the narrow alleys are few streets back from the river and you will be amazed at the sheer variety of life going on. People cramming into temples, big groups of pilgrims from the countryside all dressed up in their best Indian clothes and washing in the river etc etc.
I would recommend a town called Khajuraho if you can manage the detour.. its on the way to Varanasi, and it has an amazing temple complex, which was well worth visiting imo.
Outside of Varanasi and the smaller towns, you'll find that the cities can be surprisingly modern, with very modern metro systems, particularly in Delhi and Kolkata.
Edited by Shay HTFC on Thursday 28th March 11:35
Shay HTFC said:
I travelled overland from Delhi to Chennai last year, taking the train across to Kolkata, and then down the east coast.
First thing is that booking trains is a total PITA! Unless you are extremely determined, then don't even bother trying to get started with the app that the locals use. You need a local phone number, then you need 10 blessings from a variety of Gods just to make everything align with using a correct email address, having a valid phone number and address etc, not having to book through the special tourist part of the app etc etc.
On top of that, there are so many different categories of tickets, some book out immediately, others have you on a waiting list, others yet have you booked in a seat providing that Saturn's orbit coincides favourably with the position of Venus at precisely 12:30 on the 3rd Friday of the month.
Just book your tickets either through the asiago site, or once you are there, there are a tonne of booking agents you can go through who will charge a bit of a commission, but its not bad.
Also if trains are booked out, then consider trains to nearby junctions. Lots of express trains go past big cities without actually going into them, and stop at a big junction on the outskirts with a totally unrelated name. Your hotel receptionist/a local booking agent should be able to help you with that.
Get your tickets as far in advance as possible - the upper classes tend to get booked months in advance and because of the way that the booking system works, people book tickets on 10 different trains, and then cancel 9 of their bookings at the last minute. So you will find yourself on waiting lists for multiple trains if you book late.
Go for 1st or 2nd class. Don't even attempt to go with normal sleeper class.. the carriages are, with no exaggeration, like looking into a cattle market, with people crammed up against the open metal barred windows.
Apart from that, enjoy. In the upper classes, the experience is actually really enjoyable. Don't expect too much luxury - you will get a curtain at least to cover your bed/seat, but treat it like a moving youth hostel/2 star hotel, and its great.
Watching the scenery change is incredible, and you really get a feel for the sheer scale of India. Starting a journey in a desert-like climate, with just shrubs and sand everywhere, and seeing everything gradually change into almost tropical rainforest with a stunning setting sun is something that stays with you.
Generally people are friendly and curious, and surprisingly, they also keep themselves to themselves and will not get nosey-ly into your business unless you invite them to (which can be a very positive experience - some of my best travel moments were a result of visiting temples/towns/places that locals recommended on the journey there).
I forget the name, but there is a taxi app that you can use to hire rickshaws and tuktuks, which is nice to use to avoid the absolute throng of hustlers you will get approaching you every time you leave a station!
EDIT:
Varanasi is stunning! Its utterly filthy but the sheer madness of humanity is there to see in full. Just thinking back to it gives me the shakes. Everything you hear about snake charmers, strange religious men praying in the streets etc etc is totally true. If you are feeling brave, then take a walk through the narrow alleys are few streets back from the river and you will be amazed at the sheer variety of life going on. People cramming into temples, big groups of pilgrims from the countryside all dressed up in their best Indian clothes and washing in the river etc etc.
I would recommend a town called Khajuraho if you can manage the detour.. its on the way to Varanasi, and it has an amazing temple complex, which was well worth visiting imo.
Outside of Varanasi and the smaller towns, you'll find that the cities can be surprisingly modern, with very modern metro systems, particularly in Delhi and Kolkata.
A short comment to say the transport app is Ola and I agree worth getting before going First thing is that booking trains is a total PITA! Unless you are extremely determined, then don't even bother trying to get started with the app that the locals use. You need a local phone number, then you need 10 blessings from a variety of Gods just to make everything align with using a correct email address, having a valid phone number and address etc, not having to book through the special tourist part of the app etc etc.
On top of that, there are so many different categories of tickets, some book out immediately, others have you on a waiting list, others yet have you booked in a seat providing that Saturn's orbit coincides favourably with the position of Venus at precisely 12:30 on the 3rd Friday of the month.
Just book your tickets either through the asiago site, or once you are there, there are a tonne of booking agents you can go through who will charge a bit of a commission, but its not bad.
Also if trains are booked out, then consider trains to nearby junctions. Lots of express trains go past big cities without actually going into them, and stop at a big junction on the outskirts with a totally unrelated name. Your hotel receptionist/a local booking agent should be able to help you with that.
Get your tickets as far in advance as possible - the upper classes tend to get booked months in advance and because of the way that the booking system works, people book tickets on 10 different trains, and then cancel 9 of their bookings at the last minute. So you will find yourself on waiting lists for multiple trains if you book late.
Go for 1st or 2nd class. Don't even attempt to go with normal sleeper class.. the carriages are, with no exaggeration, like looking into a cattle market, with people crammed up against the open metal barred windows.
Apart from that, enjoy. In the upper classes, the experience is actually really enjoyable. Don't expect too much luxury - you will get a curtain at least to cover your bed/seat, but treat it like a moving youth hostel/2 star hotel, and its great.
Watching the scenery change is incredible, and you really get a feel for the sheer scale of India. Starting a journey in a desert-like climate, with just shrubs and sand everywhere, and seeing everything gradually change into almost tropical rainforest with a stunning setting sun is something that stays with you.
Generally people are friendly and curious, and surprisingly, they also keep themselves to themselves and will not get nosey-ly into your business unless you invite them to (which can be a very positive experience - some of my best travel moments were a result of visiting temples/towns/places that locals recommended on the journey there).
I forget the name, but there is a taxi app that you can use to hire rickshaws and tuktuks, which is nice to use to avoid the absolute throng of hustlers you will get approaching you every time you leave a station!
EDIT:
Varanasi is stunning! Its utterly filthy but the sheer madness of humanity is there to see in full. Just thinking back to it gives me the shakes. Everything you hear about snake charmers, strange religious men praying in the streets etc etc is totally true. If you are feeling brave, then take a walk through the narrow alleys are few streets back from the river and you will be amazed at the sheer variety of life going on. People cramming into temples, big groups of pilgrims from the countryside all dressed up in their best Indian clothes and washing in the river etc etc.
I would recommend a town called Khajuraho if you can manage the detour.. its on the way to Varanasi, and it has an amazing temple complex, which was well worth visiting imo.
Outside of Varanasi and the smaller towns, you'll find that the cities can be surprisingly modern, with very modern metro systems, particularly in Delhi and Kolkata.
Edited by Shay HTFC on Thursday 28th March 11:35
I would recommend a town called Khajuraho if you can manage the detour.. its on the way to Varanasi, and it has an amazing temple complex, which was well worth visiting imo.
Outside of Varanasi and the smaller towns, you'll find that the cities can be surprisingly modern, with very modern metro systems, particularly in Delhi and Kolkata.
Edited by Shay HTFC on Thursday 28th March 11:35
[/quote]
TY yes am aware of the 12Go asia website......Its the planning the route first Then then accom I think. Have trained all around Vietnam and China, so am aware of the classes etc. Shared a cabin with 2 ex army Koreans going down to Surat Thani.....was fun.... China was easy. With the help of Seat61, we booked everything in 1 go in HK a week ahead. Went very easily...... The planning starts over summer.
Be careful with the asiago website though - I've just checked for a train in 10 days time, which on the official website has a waiting list of 1 person (so you'll almost definitely get to ride that train if you buy that ticket, as someone will cancel their ticket almost 100%). However, Asiago shows the tickets as just completely unavailable.
This is the official website: https://www.irctc.co.in/nget/train-search
If you can get your head around that, then you'll get much more detailed data about which trains are available than you will through the 12asiago website!
This is the official website: https://www.irctc.co.in/nget/train-search
If you can get your head around that, then you'll get much more detailed data about which trains are available than you will through the 12asiago website!
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