Marrakech - Morocco

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Johnniem

Original Poster:

2,675 posts

224 months

Monday 29th March 2010
quotequote all
Am thinking that a long weekend doing 'Bazaar' things might go down a treat this year! Anyone prepared to offer feedback? Tend towards the better hotels and love the food thing so any steer on accommodation and good restaurants would be great. Have trawled Tripadvisor but first hand advice would be most welcomed. Thanks to all responders.

anonymous-user

55 months

Monday 29th March 2010
quotequote all
From a previous response of mine (do a search - plenty of H&T threads on Marrakech)....

Do
  1. Seeing the sun rise over the Atlas at dawn on a balloon ride - via Ciel d'Afrique
  2. Saadian Tombs
  3. Djemma El Fnaa at night and eating at a stall
  4. Tea and Cakes at La Moumounia - how the posh folk 'do' Marakech
  5. Souqs - particularly Iron, Leather, Dyers. Walk without a map and get lost - it ain't a big place and there's always the taxis..
  6. A beer in the hotel Tazi - nearest place for a beer to the DEFnaa and an essential 'experience'
  7. Ensure where you eat has a licence if you want a beer - most don't
  8. Look confident and if you DO get hassled - then a firm 'no' and looking into the eyes in a confident fashion works fine
  9. Speak French (or Arabic or Berber) if you can - always much appreciated

Don't
  1. Go and see a 'show' or eat in a 'palace' most are cack and very expensive
  2. Hold back - it is a wonderful and a very, very different place - there is much to see, learn and experience if you're up for it
Plenty of good top end hotels - but I prefer to stay in one of the boutique riads (of which there are many) in the Medina....

tinman0

18,231 posts

241 months

Monday 29th March 2010
quotequote all
Johnniem said:
Am thinking that a long weekend doing 'Bazaar' things might go down a treat this year! Anyone prepared to offer feedback? Tend towards the better hotels and love the food thing so any steer on accommodation and good restaurants would be great. Have trawled Tripadvisor but first hand advice would be most welcomed. Thanks to all responders.
If you were able to take a couple of extra days, hire a car and go up into the High Atlas.

You want to head towards Ijoukak. If you can get out first thing in the morning, you can easily make Tiz'n'Test pass. The view from there southwards absolutely rocks. There is a cafe at the top, and if you don't like that, head down the other side a mile and there are 3 more cafes. We sat in one of those cafes for an hour just taking in the view it was so good. You are looking towards the Sahara (although you still have to get through the Anti Atlas to get there) but it's like being on the edge of the world. After Tiz'n'Test things really become basic!

After that, head north again towards Mkech. You will find Tinmal temple on your left at somepoint. Park up, pay the quid to get in and you are in the original Moroccan capital several hundred years ago. Absolutely brilliant.

From Tinmal head back to Ijoukak (5 miles). At the end of the town (the northern end) is a bridge. Go over the bridge and there is a tiny track to your right. (If you are going north its on your right, if you are heading south its on your left). This track should have signs for Gite Majoub.

Head down the track for 2km until you find some garages on your right. You will see a walk way on your left. Follows the signs for Majoub. The walkway takes you down to the river bed and into a Berber village on the other side of the river.

Ask for El Majoub.

Majoub owns this amazing Berber house. It's about 10quid per person for the evening including food - make sure you have cash. If you are the only guests, you will have the whole house to yourselves. It is a basic evening - a really basic evening - as you are in a 200 year old Berber village. This is as rough as it gets. So don't expect too much, like ensuite or anything. The bedding is warm though so you won't freeze or anything.

However, it is an evening you will never ever forget for all the right reasons. Majoub is brilliant (but only speaks French). If you have a French speaking friend I can give you his number.

Although its basic, it is more fun and enjoyable than all the 5stars in Mkech. You also won't feel preyed on at Majoub's either.

Been there twice now hence I can easily recommend this.

Johnniem

Original Poster:

2,675 posts

224 months

Tuesday 30th March 2010
quotequote all
Thanks guys for your very comprehensive replies. Much appreciated. It sounds fantastic and I shall look forward to more planning!

SerialLurker

36 posts

216 months

Tuesday 30th March 2010
quotequote all
I was there for a long weekend last week and loved it.

We wanted to be in the thick of things so stayed in a Riad in the Medina. I would recommend the one I stayed in to friends / family so pm me if you would like the details / e-mail address.

As for things to do, I would recommend getting lost in the souks, and grabbing a drink in one of the cafe's overlooking the main square while the sun sets. The square at night has an amazing atmosphere.

I would definately go back.

ginettajoe

2,106 posts

219 months

Monday 5th April 2010
quotequote all
SerialLurker said:
I was there for a long weekend last week and loved it.

We wanted to be in the thick of things so stayed in a Riad in the Medina. I would recommend the one I stayed in to friends / family so pm me if you would like the details / e-mail address.

As for things to do, I would recommend getting lost in the souks, and grabbing a drink in one of the cafe's overlooking the main square while the sun sets. The square at night has an amazing atmosphere.

I would definately go back.
I, together with a group of friends were there in December, for three days.
If you enjoy roughing it at Five star prices, then stay in a Riad in the Medina. Do not attempt to buy anything at any of the Souks, it is far cheaper in the airport, and exactly the same products.

Everyone is on the make, .... do not book a guide, they will take you to souks, shops, palaces & cafes where they receive "cash incentives". In the Riads, the owners will come across as being helpful, booking cabs etc for you, but you'll be paying for that!!!!

If you have plenty of disposable, and want to be in the spirit, then stay in a Riad, in the Medina, but if you want to be eating and sleeping at a comparitively cheap cost, then stay in a four star hotel. less than a mile away from the squalor, filth, poverty, & beggars, and walk into the Medina (Old town) to experience a "coca cola life at Champagne prices"

I really don't understand the "Riad in the Medina" mentality, when to stay in relative luxury, for less money and eat in pleasant restuarants, and then sample the local culture, by walking a mile or so, without paying a fortune, is an easy option!! It is the only place I have ever visited that operates "back to front" ..... paying more for squalor, than you do for luxury!!

Still, some people obviously have "MUG" stamped on their forehead!!

Maybe when you walk around the Medina, and look to buy a Croissant, but they have that many flies on them, you can't actually see what you are proposing to eat, ...... you will understand my sentiments.

Good luck, and I hope this helps, Howard

anonymous-user

55 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
What utter tosh - you clearly didn't have a good time, but I suspect this was more to do with your attitude than anything else. It seems it is more likley to be you with 'mug' stamped on your forehead if your experiences were as described.

To offer a few truths....

  1. There are many magnificent Riads in the medina, and prices can be far from crazy. You just need to know where to look. I've stayed in both riads and 5 star hotels in the Hivernage, and for luxury, the riads can often shade it.
  2. It's easy to buy things very cheaply in the souks - just bargain hard and buy from places in the side alleys rather than main thoroughfares.
  3. There are many trustworthy guides, OP, PM me if you want details
  4. Don't act all 'Brit Tourist', looking down on everything and everybody. It's a different way of life there, it is not nearly advanced as the UK and you will have many different experiences. That's the attraction. If you want everything to be like the UK, go to Benidorm.



t84

6,941 posts

195 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
"La Shokran" (No thanks) worked well in Tunisia. Try and learn as many Arabic words as you can as they really appreciate you trying, much like any other country in that aspect.

Johnniem

Original Poster:

2,675 posts

224 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Thanks to all who have replied. A mixed bag but a great help!

pugwash4x4

7,536 posts

222 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Fez is worth visiting- much less touristy than marrakech, and very very "real", We were totally unhassled when we went, and actually could have done with a guide!

having spent 3 weeks driving around morocco all i can say is that its a country of contrasts! some brilliant times, some not so good. one of the best experiences was taking a local bus from our campsite to

tinman0

18,231 posts

241 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
had ham said:
What utter tosh - you clearly didn't have a good time, but I suspect this was more to do with your attitude than anything else. It seems it is more likley to be you with 'mug' stamped on your forehead if your experiences were as described.
I dunno.

Morocco can be very intimidating for a first time visit.

We were there on our first visit a few years ago, we were there for 4 days. By the time we left we were nervous wrecks, with the key phrase "F*** OFF" aimed at nearly everyone who came near us. Everyone wanted money off us, and after 4 days in the barrel we had had enough.

It is the first time that I have ever been pleased to see Spain. (And the last.)

However, we have been back 4 times since then and enjoyed it more and more each time. This is the first year in 4 years that we aren't going there and I'm genuinely sad about that.

Arab Moroccans are first class at extracting money out of you as well and takes real courage to be able to avoid their advances forcefully. I know we got out of our depth one day, and actually had a local warding the guides off us. We later find out that guides aren't universally liked as it gives Morocco a bad name (No Kiddin!).

The key to Morocco is to get out of the cities. The real beauty is not Tangier, Casa or Mkech. Those cities are life tick boxes.


g3org3y

20,655 posts

192 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Echo the above. Just got back from a week and a half in Morocco.

Started in Marrakesh. Spent a few days there wandering around the sites. Stayed in nice Riad in the Medina but in all subsequent towns, ended up staying in the Ville Nouvelle.

Went up to Chefchaouen for a couple of days relaxation (very very nice little village).

Back down inte Fez and I agree with this:

pugwash4x4 said:
Fez is worth visiting- much less touristy than marrakech, and very very "real", We were totally unhassled when we went, and actually could have done with a guide!
Although for better prices on stuff and a proper lack of tourists, Meknes was even better.

Nipped into Casablanca for lunch at Rick's Cafe and back to Marrakesh for the final day before back to Blighty.


Morocco is hard work. As mentioned, need to have your wits about you to avoid scamming. Worthwhile experience for the colour, the food and the Souqs. Be aware, you will be forever fighting off beggars, kids scrounging for money and constant approached from anyone and everyone wanting to sell you stuff.

Haven't gone through my photos properly yet but here's a flavour:

















Mermaid

21,492 posts

172 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
g3org3y said:
Morocco is hard work. As mentioned, need to have your wits about you to avoid scamming. Worthwhile experience for the colour, the food and the Souqs. Be aware, you will be forever fighting off beggars, kids scrounging for money and constant approached from anyone and everyone wanting to sell you stuff.
I have travelled quite extensively, but the only place I got seriously compromised was in Marrakesh - these people are smarter than the FBI/CIA/Mi5 etc, and will ensnare you if you let your guard down even for a minute.

Having said that, I met some really nice people there too.

I would not travel in Marrakesh without an experienced guide - it's a good investment.

Great pics BTW

Edited by Mermaid on Tuesday 6th April 20:23

g3org3y

20,655 posts

192 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Mermaid said:
g3org3y said:
Morocco is hard work. As mentioned, need to have your wits about you to avoid scamming. Worthwhile experience for the colour, the food and the Souqs. Be aware, you will be forever fighting off beggars, kids scrounging for money and constant approached from anyone and everyone wanting to sell you stuff.
I have travelled quite extensively, but the only place I got seriously compromised was in Marrakesh - these people are smarter than the FBI/CIA/Mi5 etc, and will ensnare you if you let your guard down even for a minute.

Having said that, I met some really nice people there too.

I would not travel in Marrakesh without an experienced guide - it's a good investment.

Great pics BTW

Edited by Mermaid on Tuesday 6th April 20:23
Our tactic was literally to say no to everyone/everything. Unfortuantely this is fatiguing and really not a nice attitude to take. As a result, the only people that screwed us over were the inevitable taxi drivers where ultimately your principles go out the window for a couple of Euros.. rolleyes

We managed Marrakesh without a (human!) guide, used Rough Guide - very decent maps. To be honest, there's not 'that' much to see there and the Souqs can be navigated with trial and error. I wouldn't buy anything there without a proper ref point (ask your hotel/riad staff how much things are worth) - you will be charged 2-3 times as much as you would in other towns (we did our shopping in Meknes - much much nicer shopping environment).

We got a guide for Fez and it was the best 250Ddirhams we spent the entire holiday - one's experience is unfortuantely down to luck and who you get on the day.

It is difficult to relax when you feel you have to be on your guard the entire time. Plus, watch your wallet/mobile - they can easily go walkies in the busy marketplace.

pugwash4x4

7,536 posts

222 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
ginettajoe said:
had ham said:
What utter tosh - you clearly didn't have a good time, but I suspect this was more to do with your attitude than anything else. It seems it is more likley to be you with 'mug' stamped on your forehead if your experiences were as described.

To offer a few truths....

  1. There are many magnificent Riads in the medina, and prices can be far from crazy. You just need to know where to look. I've stayed in both riads and 5 star hotels in the Hivernage, and for luxury, the riads can often shade it.
  2. It's easy to buy things very cheaply in the souks - just bargain hard and buy from places in the side alleys rather than main thoroughfares.
  3. There are many trustworthy guides, OP, PM me if you want details
  4. Don't act all 'Brit Tourist', looking down on everything and everybody. It's a different way of life there, it is not nearly advanced as the UK and you will have many different experiences. That's the attraction. If you want everything to be like the UK, go to Benidorm.
...... DON'T tell me I speak utter tosh, you jumped up southern prick!!! Maybe you are used to living in squalor, with flies eating your meals, and leaving you the remains!!!! I enjoy living as others do, but there is a limit to what I enjoy. Just so you understand a little more, Nancy, .... the friends I choose to holiday with are rugby players, ex SAS, ..... maybe they were talking tosh too!!! Just keep your objectionable comments to yourself, and do not comment on what I experienced!!
wow anger management issues

calm down dear its only the internet!

B17NNS

18,506 posts

248 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
I went 5 or 6 years ago. It smells, really bad.

I assume it still does.

tinman0

18,231 posts

241 months

Tuesday 6th April 2010
quotequote all
Mkech was funny on one of our visits. We were heading round the outskirts of the city heading for the motorway to Casa. The motorway junction is a point of reference for a very nice cheap Ibis sanctuary where you don't get hassled.

But on the way round the ring road, I was distracted by something, and sped through a mobile speed trap. 68km/h in a 40 iirc. We were busted, and it was my fault entirely.

Once the two cops established that we were tourists, and then fawned over my camera (400D with a big lens on it), they decided that there was no penalty and let us on our way.

Friendliness was similar to the cops down near the Sahara at Foum Zguid, that asked us not to drive down a road because it was "4x4 and old Renault only". Too rough for our Fiat Doblo apparently. The cop chatted to us, and assumed that my American wife was a lawyer from New York, rather than house wife from Florida. We were then asked where Mr Bean lived, so we showed him a map of southeast England and pointed towards Dorking. I will always remember his words when looking at that map "sooooo many roads......."

anonymous-user

55 months

Wednesday 7th April 2010
quotequote all
pugwash4x4 said:
ginettajoe said:
had ham said:
What utter tosh - you clearly didn't have a good time, but I suspect this was more to do with your attitude than anything else. It seems it is more likley to be you with 'mug' stamped on your forehead if your experiences were as described.

To offer a few truths....

  1. There are many magnificent Riads in the medina, and prices can be far from crazy. You just need to know where to look. I've stayed in both riads and 5 star hotels in the Hivernage, and for luxury, the riads can often shade it.
  2. It's easy to buy things very cheaply in the souks - just bargain hard and buy from places in the side alleys rather than main thoroughfares.
  3. There are many trustworthy guides, OP, PM me if you want details
  4. Don't act all 'Brit Tourist', looking down on everything and everybody. It's a different way of life there, it is not nearly advanced as the UK and you will have many different experiences. That's the attraction. If you want everything to be like the UK, go to Benidorm.
...... DON'T tell me I speak utter tosh, you jumped up southern prick!!! Maybe you are used to living in squalor, with flies eating your meals, and leaving you the remains!!!! I enjoy living as others do, but there is a limit to what I enjoy. Just so you understand a little more, Nancy, .... the friends I choose to holiday with are rugby players, ex SAS, ..... maybe they were talking tosh too!!! Just keep your objectionable comments to yourself, and do not comment on what I experienced!!
wow anger management issues

calm down dear its only the internet!
Hmmnnn, indeed, seems like I may have upset him a tad. That wasn't the intent, so apologies if you got a little hot under your collar, I merely intended to comment on your rather one-sided and poorly informed opions aired earlier in the thread. Perhaps you realised how uneccessary your reaction was, as your comments seem to have been deleted.

Oh, and ex-SAS and Rugby players, wow, I mean, like really, wow.

And I'm a Geordie BTW, and my name ain't Nancy.

t84

6,941 posts

195 months

Wednesday 7th April 2010
quotequote all
Absolutely love that photo of the woman holding the mobile phone for some reason, it's great!

astonluv

93 posts

175 months

Wednesday 7th April 2010
quotequote all
had ham said:
pugwash4x4 said:
ginettajoe said:
had ham said:
What utter tosh - you clearly didn't have a good time, but I suspect this was more to do with your attitude than anything else. It seems it is more likley to be you with 'mug' stamped on your forehead if your experiences were as described.

To offer a few truths....

  1. There are many magnificent Riads in the medina, and prices can be far from crazy. You just need to know where to look. I've stayed in both riads and 5 star hotels in the Hivernage, and for luxury, the riads can often shade it.
  2. It's easy to buy things very cheaply in the souks - just bargain hard and buy from places in the side alleys rather than main thoroughfares.
  3. There are many trustworthy guides, OP, PM me if you want details
  4. Don't act all 'Brit Tourist', looking down on everything and everybody. It's a different way of life there, it is not nearly advanced as the UK and you will have many different experiences. That's the attraction. If you want everything to be like the UK, go to Benidorm.
...... DON'T tell me I speak utter tosh, you jumped up southern prick!!! Maybe you are used to living in squalor, with flies eating your meals, and leaving you the remains!!!! I enjoy living as others do, but there is a limit to what I enjoy. Just so you understand a little more, Nancy, .... the friends I choose to holiday with are rugby players, ex SAS, ..... maybe they were talking tosh too!!! Just keep your objectionable comments to yourself, and do not comment on what I experienced!!
wow anger management issues

calm down dear its only the internet!
Hmmnnn, indeed, seems like I may have upset him a tad. That wasn't the intent, so apologies if you got a little hot under your collar, I merely intended to comment on your rather one-sided and poorly informed opions aired earlier in the thread. Perhaps you realised how uneccessary your reaction was, as your comments seem to have been deleted.

Oh, and ex-SAS and Rugby players, wow, I mean, like really, wow.

And I'm a Geordie BTW, and my name ain't Nancy.
Your comments are unnecessarily inflammatory ... AGAIN!!