Are you well dressed? A PH gentleman thread.

Are you well dressed? A PH gentleman thread.

Author
Discussion

LordGrover

33,549 posts

213 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Finishing is nothing like C&J. They'd never even get as far as inspection.

13m

26,354 posts

223 months

Friday 1st July 2016
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LordGrover said:
Finishing is nothing like C&J. They'd never even get as far as inspection.
Would you say C&J are the best made "mass production" British shoes?

LordGrover

33,549 posts

213 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
I don't know enough about it to answer that, but the boots above are not of high quality.
I'm not knocking them, they're (hopefully) good vfm and so long as he likes them they're spot on.
The better Northampton makers are leagues ahead, but you have to pay for it.
Similar shoe from C&J:


and not so similar from Cheaney:


A glance shows the difference in quality but I'd guess they're at least £200 more.

DanL

6,223 posts

266 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
LordGrover said:
I don't know enough about it to answer that, but the boots above are not of high quality.
...
A glance shows the difference in quality but I'd guess they're at least £200 more.
It does? Not knocking you, genuinely curious what you're seeing in the pictures that I don't know to look for. I've no idea how you judge the quality of a shoe - my standard has always been whether it's comfortable or not, so it would be nice to become an informed shopper!

LordGrover

33,549 posts

213 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Like I said, I'm no expert but for me, and I don't know the correct terminology, but the 'edges' are unfinished, just left ragged with no finishing at all. Looks fuzzy. I really don't like the baggy crease where the strap comes up from the heel either.

FreeLitres

6,051 posts

178 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
I just can't imagine IR wearing some cheap boots. He wears £900 Graziano & Girling shoes for example.

technodup

7,585 posts

131 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
LordGrover said:
I don't know enough about it to answer that, but the boots above are not of high quality.
I'm not knocking them, they're (hopefully) good vfm and so long as he likes them they're spot on.
The better Northampton makers are leagues ahead, but you have to pay for it.
Similar shoe from C&J:


and not so similar from Cheaney:


A glance shows the difference in quality but I'd guess they're at least £200 more.
IIRC the boots in question were four figures, so more than double C&J. smile

LordGrover

33,549 posts

213 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
technodup said:
IRC the boots in question were four figures, so more than double C&J. smile
Not sure we're talking about the same boots here. There's no way those I'm talking about cost more than £150* let alone north of £1,000. hehe

*and that's being generous.

ETA Turns out I'm an arse and completely wrong. Apols all. paperbag

Edited by LordGrover on Friday 1st July 12:03

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
technodup said:
LordGrover said:
I don't know enough about it to answer that, but the boots above are not of high quality
I'm not knocking them, they're (hopefully) good vfm and so long as he likes them they're spot on.
The better Northampton makers are leagues ahead, but you have to pay for it.
Similar shoe from C&J:


and not so similar from Cheaney:


A glance shows the difference in quality but I'd guess they're at least £200 more.
IIRC the boots in question were four figures, so more than double C&J. smile
Of course, I must respectfully disagree with LordGrover. smile

They are Zonkey Boot Jodhpurs and other than the stitching of the uppers are entirely handmade which, in my opinion elevates them well above "the better Northampton makers" (which incidentally C&J nor Cheaney are) who only produce GYW shoes outside of bespoke and operate more of a production line than a workshop.

Neither the C&Js nor Cheaney's above feature closed channel stitching or a bevelled waist so I would certainly not rate the level of finishing as higher on those. The lack of finished edges on the Zonkeys is their preference for the jodhpur style and not a cost saving measure, although it clearly does have that effect - after all if they are taking the time to hand last and welt their shoes then a few minutes polishing the edges of a strap is certainly not an oversight.

LordGrover

33,549 posts

213 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
InductionRoar said:
Of course, I must respectfully disagree with LordGrover. smile

They are Zonkey Boot Jodhpurs and other than the stitching of the uppers are entirely handmade which, in my opinion elevates them well above "the better Northampton makers" (which incidentally C&J nor Cheaney are) who only produce GYW shoes outside of bespoke and operate more of a production line than a workshop.

Neither the C&Js nor Cheaney's above feature closed channel stitching or a bevelled waist so I would certainly not rate the level of finishing as higher on those. The lack of finished edges on the Zonkeys is their preference for the jodhpur style and not a cost saving measure, although it clearly does have that effect - after all if they are taking the time to hand last and welt their shoes then a few minutes polishing the edges of a strap is certainly not an oversight.
I stand corrected.

romeogolf

2,056 posts

120 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
I have a pair of very pale blue trousers. I struggle to find anything which 'works' with them. I've tried a plain white shirt but feel it looks a bit washed out.

Could anyone suggest something?


Trabi601

4,865 posts

96 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Don't buy pale blue trousers.

Buy trousers in the correct leg length.

TheJimi

25,019 posts

244 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
romeogolf said:
I have a pair of very pale blue trousers. I struggle to find anything which 'works' with them. I've tried a plain white shirt but feel it looks a bit washed out.

Could anyone suggest something?

Black fitted T shirt?

romeogolf

2,056 posts

120 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Trabi601 said:
Buy trousers in the correct leg length.
Try being 5'4 and come back to me. I get most of my clothes shortened, but haven't decided if I'm keeping these trousers yet (as can't find anything to wear with them...).

antspants

2,402 posts

176 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Dark blue shirt.

TheJimi

25,019 posts

244 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
romeogolf said:
Trabi601 said:
Buy trousers in the correct leg length.
Try being 5'4 and come back to me. I get most of my clothes shortened, but haven't decided if I'm keeping these trousers yet (as can't find anything to wear with them...).
I *almost* made a comment re the sleeves being too long, but didn't, in case the above was the case!


DanL

6,223 posts

266 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
romeogolf said:
I have a pair of very pale blue trousers. I struggle to find anything which 'works' with them. I've tried a plain white shirt but feel it looks a bit washed out.

Could anyone suggest something?
Black shirt would be my choice.

schmunk

4,399 posts

126 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
DanL said:
romeogolf said:
I have a pair of very pale blue trousers. I struggle to find anything which 'works' with them. I've tried a plain white shirt but feel it looks a bit washed out.

Could anyone suggest something?
Black shirt would be my choice.
Returning the trousers to the store would be my choice.

13m

26,354 posts

223 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
romeogolf said:
I have a pair of very pale blue trousers. I struggle to find anything which 'works' with them. I've tried a plain white shirt but feel it looks a bit washed out.

Could anyone suggest something?

Nothing wrong with those trousers but they need shortening and possibly tapering if the shortening leaves them too wide.

Dark blue would look good with them. You could also go black or various other colours depending upon the garment. White is fine but probably better if you're wearing a blazer.

Edited to add: If you're going to wear a top untucked a straight bottom would look better. Maybe a polo or shirt without tails. The one in the photo needs tucking in.

Edited by 13m on Friday 1st July 17:30

Trabi601

4,865 posts

96 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
13m said:
Nothing wrong with those trousers but they need shortening and possibly tapering if the shortening leaves them too wide.

Dark blue would look good with them. You could also go black or various other colours depending upon the garment. White is fine but probably better if you're wearing a blazer.

Edited to add: If you're going to wear a top untucked a straight bottom would look better. Maybe a polo or shirt without tails. The one in the photo needs tucking in.

Edited by 13m on Friday 1st July 17:30
Blazer?!

If you're wearing a blazer you're either still at school or driving a coach.