Waiting for my 3D printer !!
Discussion
So I just spent out £1300 hard earned on a 3D printer. A Big Box Dual from E3d.
Long story short the lead time is about a month and while I'm waiting I want nominations for the coolest downloadable 3d printed model to make.
So far this is the first thing I'll print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1564731
But I can be encouraged to change if someone spots something cooler. If its ubercool I might even make two and post one to the suggester by way of thanks, so no elephant sized prints.
Long story short the lead time is about a month and while I'm waiting I want nominations for the coolest downloadable 3d printed model to make.
So far this is the first thing I'll print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1564731
But I can be encouraged to change if someone spots something cooler. If its ubercool I might even make two and post one to the suggester by way of thanks, so no elephant sized prints.
Julian
I saw my first 3d printer at Sandown park model show a year or two back. whilst i am more metal bashing, i watched for about 30 mins as it printed out one of those balls within balls within balls etc etc (n...n+1) I thought they were a work of art when done manually, normally far eastern original in ivory, but this was brilliant. vowed that would be the first thing i would do if i ever got one!
I saw my first 3d printer at Sandown park model show a year or two back. whilst i am more metal bashing, i watched for about 30 mins as it printed out one of those balls within balls within balls etc etc (n...n+1) I thought they were a work of art when done manually, normally far eastern original in ivory, but this was brilliant. vowed that would be the first thing i would do if i ever got one!
silverfoxcc said:
Julian
I saw my first 3d printer at Sandown park model show a year or two back. whilst i am more metal bashing, i watched for about 30 mins as it printed out one of those balls within balls within balls etc etc (n...n+1) I thought they were a work of art when done manually, normally far eastern original in ivory, but this was brilliant. vowed that would be the first thing i would do if i ever got one!
Ah a kindred spirit. I too am a metal basher. Only for hobby/maintaining my cars but over the years have accrued things which took my fancy. I now have a garage with lathe/ mill/ crucible/ press. In the house I have a little X1 4 axis CNC mill for small metal work, and this 3d printer will sit next to it. The plan is that amongst other things the 3d printer will prototype stuff which will then be used as a mould for my aluminium casting. I'm quite excited as to what the combination might achieve. I saw my first 3d printer at Sandown park model show a year or two back. whilst i am more metal bashing, i watched for about 30 mins as it printed out one of those balls within balls within balls etc etc (n...n+1) I thought they were a work of art when done manually, normally far eastern original in ivory, but this was brilliant. vowed that would be the first thing i would do if i ever got one!
silverfoxcc said:
I build railway locomotives 5in gauge. Havent got to the Bessemer stage, but might send you some details of a tender water scoop you could cast for me for a fee!!
Interesting I inherited a bunch of locomotives in the last year and have been trying to gently refurbish them. I might post a pic if you are interested, I have little idea of what they are or the history behind them, but I find making bits for them quite cathartic julian64 said:
So I just spent out £1300 hard earned on a 3D printer. A Big Box Dual from E3d.
Long story short the lead time is about a month and while I'm waiting I want nominations for the coolest downloadable 3d printed model to make.
So far this is the first thing I'll print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1564731
But I can be encouraged to change if someone spots something cooler. If its ubercool I might even make two and post one to the suggester by way of thanks, so no elephant sized prints.
Why do you have to wait a month, can't they just get one of their existing printers to print you out a new printer over night? Long story short the lead time is about a month and while I'm waiting I want nominations for the coolest downloadable 3d printed model to make.
So far this is the first thing I'll print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1564731
But I can be encouraged to change if someone spots something cooler. If its ubercool I might even make two and post one to the suggester by way of thanks, so no elephant sized prints.
How about an Astro Pi case
STL files Here
https://github.com/raspberrypilearning/3d-printed-...
Description
https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/astro-pi-3d-print...
Picture
STL files Here
https://github.com/raspberrypilearning/3d-printed-...
Description
https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/astro-pi-3d-print...
Picture
For most of the new versions of 3D printing...
You model away in the 3-D CAD system of your choice – for me this is Solidworks.
Export the geometry as file suitable for stereo lithography,
Import the file into the 3-D printer pre-processor of choice which helps you orient it to the most appropriate position.
Place supports where appropriate for tricky thin bits
Put some internal structuring in where appropriate – this bit is ace!
Then it exports the file as a load of x and y co-ordinates related to that bit of z (vertical) - export it to an SD card. Don’t ask me why it’s not a USB stick on mine!
Place the SD card in the 3-D printer slot.
Follow the instructions
Clean the platter (the bottom surface)- some special tape helps…
Press go
Imagine a vertical heated pen that has plastic “strimmer wire” as solid ink feeding through it.
Control this as per a CNC milling machine in the x and y directions.
It puts a layer of thin melted plastic down on the platter and the strimmer wire cools pretty much instantly and returns to a solid form. The platter with the first 0.1mm thick layer of the model takes a step down by a tiny bit (0.1 mm say) and then lays another sweep across what went before, putting some more plastic down.
Repeat as necessary, for a 100 mm thick part, that’s a 1000 sweeps. So most are left running over night.
Retire to bed….
Wake up the next morning, and get annoyed at the smell of melting plastic as you forgot to open the upstairs window again to let the fumes out…
Return to your 3D printer and carefully remove it from the platter
Job jobbed
Has that helped....?
You model away in the 3-D CAD system of your choice – for me this is Solidworks.
Export the geometry as file suitable for stereo lithography,
Import the file into the 3-D printer pre-processor of choice which helps you orient it to the most appropriate position.
Place supports where appropriate for tricky thin bits
Put some internal structuring in where appropriate – this bit is ace!
Then it exports the file as a load of x and y co-ordinates related to that bit of z (vertical) - export it to an SD card. Don’t ask me why it’s not a USB stick on mine!
Place the SD card in the 3-D printer slot.
Follow the instructions
Clean the platter (the bottom surface)- some special tape helps…
Press go
Imagine a vertical heated pen that has plastic “strimmer wire” as solid ink feeding through it.
Control this as per a CNC milling machine in the x and y directions.
It puts a layer of thin melted plastic down on the platter and the strimmer wire cools pretty much instantly and returns to a solid form. The platter with the first 0.1mm thick layer of the model takes a step down by a tiny bit (0.1 mm say) and then lays another sweep across what went before, putting some more plastic down.
Repeat as necessary, for a 100 mm thick part, that’s a 1000 sweeps. So most are left running over night.
Retire to bed….
Wake up the next morning, and get annoyed at the smell of melting plastic as you forgot to open the upstairs window again to let the fumes out…
Return to your 3D printer and carefully remove it from the platter
Job jobbed
Has that helped....?
julian64 said:
Would a simpler engine be doable? or maybe just an empty bottom end? Having a miniature V6/V8 on your desk should be cool, even if it doesnt have the heads/ancillaries bucksmanuk said:
For most of the new versions of 3D printing...
You model away in the 3-D CAD system of your choice – for me this is Solidworks.
Export the geometry as file suitable for stereo lithography,
Import the file into the 3-D printer pre-processor of choice which helps you orient it to the most appropriate position.
Place supports where appropriate for tricky thin bits
Put some internal structuring in where appropriate – this bit is ace!
Then it exports the file as a load of x and y co-ordinates related to that bit of z (vertical) - export it to an SD card. Don’t ask me why it’s not a USB stick on mine!
Place the SD card in the 3-D printer slot.
Follow the instructions
Clean the platter (the bottom surface)- some special tape helps…
Press go
Imagine a vertical heated pen that has plastic “strimmer wire” as solid ink feeding through it.
Control this as per a CNC milling machine in the x and y directions.
It puts a layer of thin melted plastic down on the platter and the strimmer wire cools pretty much instantly and returns to a solid form. The platter with the first 0.1mm thick layer of the model takes a step down by a tiny bit (0.1 mm say) and then lays another sweep across what went before, putting some more plastic down.
Repeat as necessary, for a 100 mm thick part, that’s a 1000 sweeps. So most are left running over night.
Retire to bed….
Wake up the next morning, and get annoyed at the smell of melting plastic as you forgot to open the upstairs window again to let the fumes out…
Return to your 3D printer and carefully remove it from the platter
Job jobbed
Has that helped....?
You forgot: wake up to find that the job has released itself from the bed mid-print and has been turned into a plastic spaghetti nightmare. Start over...You model away in the 3-D CAD system of your choice – for me this is Solidworks.
Export the geometry as file suitable for stereo lithography,
Import the file into the 3-D printer pre-processor of choice which helps you orient it to the most appropriate position.
Place supports where appropriate for tricky thin bits
Put some internal structuring in where appropriate – this bit is ace!
Then it exports the file as a load of x and y co-ordinates related to that bit of z (vertical) - export it to an SD card. Don’t ask me why it’s not a USB stick on mine!
Place the SD card in the 3-D printer slot.
Follow the instructions
Clean the platter (the bottom surface)- some special tape helps…
Press go
Imagine a vertical heated pen that has plastic “strimmer wire” as solid ink feeding through it.
Control this as per a CNC milling machine in the x and y directions.
It puts a layer of thin melted plastic down on the platter and the strimmer wire cools pretty much instantly and returns to a solid form. The platter with the first 0.1mm thick layer of the model takes a step down by a tiny bit (0.1 mm say) and then lays another sweep across what went before, putting some more plastic down.
Repeat as necessary, for a 100 mm thick part, that’s a 1000 sweeps. So most are left running over night.
Retire to bed….
Wake up the next morning, and get annoyed at the smell of melting plastic as you forgot to open the upstairs window again to let the fumes out…
Return to your 3D printer and carefully remove it from the platter
Job jobbed
Has that helped....?
Insanity Magnet said:
You forgot: wake up to find that the job has released itself from the bed mid-print and has been turned into a plastic spaghetti nightmare. Start over...
And over.Check height of plate. Check temperature, check height again, change filament just in case.
And over and then one random print works.... Nobody knows why.
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