Underside Protection
Discussion
Bilt Hamber. I used it on my Lancer Turbo 2 years ago during the initial stages of the restoration, had it up on ramps this week and it's as good as the day it went on having done 3k miles during that time in all weathers.
not cheap but check the website out:
https://www.bilthamber.com/
Plenty of products to suit your needs and they're helpful on the phone too. Definitely a case of "get what you pay for" and it's an expense well justified.
not cheap but check the website out:
https://www.bilthamber.com/
Plenty of products to suit your needs and they're helpful on the phone too. Definitely a case of "get what you pay for" and it's an expense well justified.
3rd vote!
Use the Bilt Hamber UB (underbody) on exposed surfaces under your car, and use Dynax s50 cavity Wax in box sections, sills etc.
You get a long (about 50cm IIRC) lance with the cans of cavity wax so you can get protection in all the nooks and crannies of your car.
Not the cheapest out there, but it's damn good stuff IMO.
Use the Bilt Hamber UB (underbody) on exposed surfaces under your car, and use Dynax s50 cavity Wax in box sections, sills etc.
You get a long (about 50cm IIRC) lance with the cans of cavity wax so you can get protection in all the nooks and crannies of your car.
Not the cheapest out there, but it's damn good stuff IMO.
Just been fiddling about with my MR2.
Rubbed it down with a wire brush, treated it with a corrosion inhibitor, and then sprayed it with cold galvanised spray. Looks pretty good, and a huge improvement for not a huge amount of effort.
Some of the underseal sprays I've used have not been as good as I might have liked, and certainly are not attractive in appearance.
Rubbed it down with a wire brush, treated it with a corrosion inhibitor, and then sprayed it with cold galvanised spray. Looks pretty good, and a huge improvement for not a huge amount of effort.
Some of the underseal sprays I've used have not been as good as I might have liked, and certainly are not attractive in appearance.
All depends on what sort of finish you won,t under your car,smooth or stone chip then painted over.if your going down the stone chip rout then go down to your local VW or peugeut dealer and buy the factory stone chip which is water based and proper rubbery stuff when dry..all other stone chips are s
te if you wan,t that factory look.
te if you wan,t that factory look.Old engine oil did a great job on my last car-a 30 year-old Golf. Even where rust had already started,the oil as good as stopped the rust in its tracks for the 14 years i owned it.
On my current car,an E30 BMW,a model which knows how to rust,engine-oil has again gone inside chassis-legs,sills,doors,even inside the roof, with B-Hamber Dynax UC sprayed everywhere underneath.
I always avoid using stone-chip or underseal as being pretty useless at stopping rust forming.
On my current car,an E30 BMW,a model which knows how to rust,engine-oil has again gone inside chassis-legs,sills,doors,even inside the roof, with B-Hamber Dynax UC sprayed everywhere underneath.
I always avoid using stone-chip or underseal as being pretty useless at stopping rust forming.
Bilt Hamber or Dinitrol products 
known of old boys swear by used oil in box sections/cavities etc it just works Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff