Apartment sword
Discussion
TheJimi said:
What's the logic behind the "trigger" hole for the index finger?
I believe it is called a 'pas d'ans' in Swordish. With a dainty Needle sword like mine a finger in the trigger guard provides faster and more precise control over the tip. Basically the sword goes wherever I point my finger. This was useful in duelling where you needed lightning reactions to avoid being skewered. Also makes it difficult to drop the sword.Smallsword duel from 'The Duellists" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2KWTEhyVX8
Ayahuasca said:
I would never buy a modern reproduction, most of them are rubbish (some are not) and the fantasy type ones are particularly rubbish.
I did buy a 1796 pattern cavalry sabre after reading the Sharpe books. His was a heavy, mine is a light, which is more common and cheaper.
No I have no idea why the pictures are on their sides.
The sabre is a massive chopping / slicing sword. But if I had to choose one for a duel it would be the smallsword. It has no edge, but it is so light and nimble it is a murder machine.
That doorstop is a 22 pound Spanish cannnball. Handy to throw at any burglars.
Good stuff I did buy a 1796 pattern cavalry sabre after reading the Sharpe books. His was a heavy, mine is a light, which is more common and cheaper.
No I have no idea why the pictures are on their sides.
The sabre is a massive chopping / slicing sword. But if I had to choose one for a duel it would be the smallsword. It has no edge, but it is so light and nimble it is a murder machine.
That doorstop is a 22 pound Spanish cannnball. Handy to throw at any burglars.
I had a more dedicated google for medieval swords, but when they come up at auction they go for around £100K. I want the genuine article, but not that badly!On the reproduction side, many look so clinical and perfectly machine made that it is quite off putting. Perhaps the finest weapons of the middle ages had perfect finishes, but I bet the vast majority didn't.
There are a number of smiths in the Czech Republic and Hungary who make some nice authentic looking pieces and the prices are much better than those made in the UK. You can see the hammer marks in places.
I like this one. The only downside is that I tend to over research stuff and my research leads me to believe that a sword of this type with a point of balance just 5cm below the guard, makes for a poor weapon. Swords of this type would historically have the POB further down the blade to give it more momentum when slicing. I really like this one, but I want it to have an authentic feel. I'll have to do a little more reading before I make a decision.
Ayahuasca said:
I would never buy a modern reproduction, most of them are rubbish (some are not) and the fantasy type ones are particularly rubbish.
I did buy a 1796 pattern cavalry sabre after reading the Sharpe books. His was a heavy, mine is a light, which is more common and cheaper.
No I have no idea why the pictures are on their sides.
The sabre is a massive chopping / slicing sword. But if I had to choose one for a duel it would be the smallsword. It has no edge, but it is so light and nimble it is a murder machine.
That doorstop is a 22 pound Spanish cannnball. Handy to throw at any burglars.
IIRC Sharpe used the heavy cavalry sabre (straight) whereas you've probably have the light cavalry which was curved with a hatchet point (it gets broader in the lsat 3rd).I did buy a 1796 pattern cavalry sabre after reading the Sharpe books. His was a heavy, mine is a light, which is more common and cheaper.
No I have no idea why the pictures are on their sides.
The sabre is a massive chopping / slicing sword. But if I had to choose one for a duel it would be the smallsword. It has no edge, but it is so light and nimble it is a murder machine.
That doorstop is a 22 pound Spanish cannnball. Handy to throw at any burglars.
BrassMan said:
IIRC Sharpe used the heavy cavalry sabre (straight) whereas you've probably have the light cavalry which was curved with a hatchet point (it gets broader in the lsat 3rd).
Indeed. Mine is the curved light. His was the straight heavy. There are fewer heavies for sale and they are quite expensive - maybe as a result of the Sharpe books. AlexC1981 said:
Good stuff I had a more dedicated google for medieval swords, but when they come up at auction they go for around £100K. I want the genuine article, but not that badly!
A museum quality piece might go for £100k, but you can get a rather knackered but still recognisable genuine medieval sword for much less. One here for about £4K. I had a more dedicated google for medieval swords, but when they come up at auction they go for around £100K. I want the genuine article, but not that badly!http://www.antiqueweaponstore.com/EUROPEAN%20SWORD...
One good thing about genuine antique swords is you are unlikely to lose any money on them.
Edited by Ayahuasca on Saturday 4th August 13:17
Matt Easton's you tube channel - scholagladiatoria - has lots of videos on anything to do with swords. He can rabbit on a bit but he is a great resource for all things swordy.
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCt14YOvYhd5FCGCwcjh...
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCt14YOvYhd5FCGCwcjh...
Cheers, I will keep a look out. The replica still has the advantage that you can hit stuff with it, but of course I can get both 
I just watched that chaps Arya vs Brienne analysis. Quite interesting, but I see what you mean by him rabbiting on.
The sword on the Wulflund website that I posted earlier is still my first choice, but the Oakeshott XIV type swords have grown on me. Unfortunately I can't find one I like that is in budget.
This is what a type XIV looks like. A bit shorter, fatter near the guard and tapers sharply to the point. These were made to pierce through the vulnerable spots on early forms of armor and through chain mail.
I just watched that chaps Arya vs Brienne analysis. Quite interesting, but I see what you mean by him rabbiting on.
The sword on the Wulflund website that I posted earlier is still my first choice, but the Oakeshott XIV type swords have grown on me. Unfortunately I can't find one I like that is in budget.
This is what a type XIV looks like. A bit shorter, fatter near the guard and tapers sharply to the point. These were made to pierce through the vulnerable spots on early forms of armor and through chain mail.
AlexC1981 said:
Bloody hell, I'd end up with a ceiling like that of my local snooker club if I took that indoors! I bet you really enjoy your sparring, I'm tempted to have a go at something like that.
I like the medieval short swords, like this one. Nothing fancy needed. Just good workmanship and an authentic design. I've definitely decided I don't want a sharp one, mainly for safety reasons and I would not be able to spar with it if I wanted to.
This has quite a short handle though, I'm starting to lean towards one of the smaller hand and a half swords. Probably 105cm maximum.
THat's nice. I've got a hand and half bI like the medieval short swords, like this one. Nothing fancy needed. Just good workmanship and an authentic design. I've definitely decided I don't want a sharp one, mainly for safety reasons and I would not be able to spar with it if I wanted to.
This has quite a short handle though, I'm starting to lean towards one of the smaller hand and a half swords. Probably 105cm maximum.
d blade made by Tinker Pearce, got it through knight armoury.BrassMan said:
Ayahuasca said:
I would never buy a modern reproduction, most of them are rubbish (some are not) and the fantasy type ones are particularly rubbish.
I did buy a 1796 pattern cavalry sabre after reading the Sharpe books. His was a heavy, mine is a light, which is more common and cheaper.
No I have no idea why the pictures are on their sides.
The sabre is a massive chopping / slicing sword. But if I had to choose one for a duel it would be the smallsword. It has no edge, but it is so light and nimble it is a murder machine.
That doorstop is a 22 pound Spanish cannnball. Handy to throw at any burglars.
IIRC Sharpe used the heavy cavalry sabre (straight) whereas you've probably have the light cavalry which was curved with a hatchet point (it gets broader in the lsat 3rd).I did buy a 1796 pattern cavalry sabre after reading the Sharpe books. His was a heavy, mine is a light, which is more common and cheaper.
No I have no idea why the pictures are on their sides.
The sabre is a massive chopping / slicing sword. But if I had to choose one for a duel it would be the smallsword. It has no edge, but it is so light and nimble it is a murder machine.
That doorstop is a 22 pound Spanish cannnball. Handy to throw at any burglars.
AlexC1981 said:
Good stuff I had a more dedicated google for medieval swords, but when they come up at auction they go for around £100K. I want the genuine article, but not that badly!
On the reproduction side, many look so clinical and perfectly machine made that it is quite off putting. Perhaps the finest weapons of the middle ages had perfect finishes, but I bet the vast majority didn't.
There are a number of smiths in the Czech Republic and Hungary who make some nice authentic looking pieces and the prices are much better than those made in the UK. You can see the hammer marks in places.
I like this one. The only downside is that I tend to over research stuff and my research leads me to believe that a sword of this type with a point of balance just 5cm below the guard, makes for a poor weapon. Swords of this type would historically have the POB further down the blade to give it more momentum when slicing. I really like this one, but I want it to have an authentic feel. I'll have to do a little more reading before I make a decision.
OP, you seem to be concerned about factors that affect the use of something you're never going to use? Just get it, swish it around a bit, get bored, hang it on the wall and move on. I had a more dedicated google for medieval swords, but when they come up at auction they go for around £100K. I want the genuine article, but not that badly!On the reproduction side, many look so clinical and perfectly machine made that it is quite off putting. Perhaps the finest weapons of the middle ages had perfect finishes, but I bet the vast majority didn't.
There are a number of smiths in the Czech Republic and Hungary who make some nice authentic looking pieces and the prices are much better than those made in the UK. You can see the hammer marks in places.
I like this one. The only downside is that I tend to over research stuff and my research leads me to believe that a sword of this type with a point of balance just 5cm below the guard, makes for a poor weapon. Swords of this type would historically have the POB further down the blade to give it more momentum when slicing. I really like this one, but I want it to have an authentic feel. I'll have to do a little more reading before I make a decision.
He may wish to do HEMA, or exercise.
OP there are decent UK makers who know what they are doing. I had a chat with a guy at the weekend who was talking about authentic weapons. He's in that world (can't recall if a trainer or maker), he was telling me about the weight of authentic weapons (a lot less than modern people would think) and the balance and stuff. LOved it.
OP there are decent UK makers who know what they are doing. I had a chat with a guy at the weekend who was talking about authentic weapons. He's in that world (can't recall if a trainer or maker), he was telling me about the weight of authentic weapons (a lot less than modern people would think) and the balance and stuff. LOved it.
TheJimi said:
I'm talking about that too.
Sometimes it's just nice to know that an item you have is an accurate representation of whatever it is.
You don't need to have to use it as intended to appreciate the detail.
quite. Also you would need an opponent to be wearing plate armour to use that sword as intended. Sometimes it's just nice to know that an item you have is an accurate representation of whatever it is.
You don't need to have to use it as intended to appreciate the detail.
Hey there swordfans,
I turned my attention towards looking for antiques, but I think I've ended up with a forgery! I don't want to post too much about it right now as I'm in discussion with the auction website (not ebay) about a refund.
When it's all over I'll fill you all in on the details, but if you are looking for antiques, bear in mind that auction curators can be very sloppy in their appraisals, so do a lot of research. Buy nothing without detailed and complete history of its provenance as from what I have recently read, there are quite a lot of fakes around and they look superb to my untrained eyes.
Worst case I have lost £1400, not the end of the world, but certainly not something to just be brushed off. I'll get some pics up of the forgery at some point, but I can see this dragging on for a while given the sluggish response I have had so far from the auctioneers. I would appreciate it if you didn't sleuth and post links, but any advice would be welcomed
I turned my attention towards looking for antiques, but I think I've ended up with a forgery! I don't want to post too much about it right now as I'm in discussion with the auction website (not ebay) about a refund.
When it's all over I'll fill you all in on the details, but if you are looking for antiques, bear in mind that auction curators can be very sloppy in their appraisals, so do a lot of research. Buy nothing without detailed and complete history of its provenance as from what I have recently read, there are quite a lot of fakes around and they look superb to my untrained eyes.
Worst case I have lost £1400, not the end of the world, but certainly not something to just be brushed off. I'll get some pics up of the forgery at some point, but I can see this dragging on for a while given the sluggish response I have had so far from the auctioneers. I would appreciate it if you didn't sleuth and post links, but any advice would be welcomed
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