car stalling at lights when warm
Discussion
my wife is not happy with me or my car!
Car runs fine, and at junctions when warming up also no problem.
But when up to temp (oil and water) and you stop at junctions/lights the engine 'hunts' it goes down to very low levels e.g. 500 rpm then races up to 2k, repeats and then typically dies due to no revs.
Before I start the search on sensors, stepper motor, vacuum leak - has anyone gone through this before and had some typical areas to look into.
Car runs fine, and at junctions when warming up also no problem.
But when up to temp (oil and water) and you stop at junctions/lights the engine 'hunts' it goes down to very low levels e.g. 500 rpm then races up to 2k, repeats and then typically dies due to no revs.
Before I start the search on sensors, stepper motor, vacuum leak - has anyone gone through this before and had some typical areas to look into.
Don't know the cause yet , but I've got the same problem. Firstly stalling at lights/junctions then when in for MOT running very rich. Roverguage showed faults on both LAMBDAs , so they were replaced. However original LAMBDAs are no longer available , so Rimmer Bros supplied some Rover ones , some I believe are Chinese manufactured . Then I started having the revs racing like yourself . Replacement LAMDBAs have been sent by Rimmer Bros Roverguage (showed fault code on one of the new LAMBDAs) and air flow meter is also suspected . If it gets sorted I'll post what fixed mine.
Doesn't die every time and feels "lumpy" to me at constant speeds but no problem when accelerating.
Doesn't die every time and feels "lumpy" to me at constant speeds but no problem when accelerating.
ECU fault code list on rovergauge showed several faults. I've logged it but can't find the file!
I recently changed my lambdas and they were flagged.
I cleared the codes and went for a drive and when I got back I changed the stepper motor steps via software and this (obviously) stalled the engine and threw a fault code.
So far - with the codes reset it seems to idle at warm nicely, if it throws another fault code I'll swap out the stepper motor. I recently bought 2 x used (but good) stepper motors from Jools as he collects them from ECU upgrades.
My engine is also historically run rich causing MOT issues. But step-by-step.....
I recently changed my lambdas and they were flagged.
I cleared the codes and went for a drive and when I got back I changed the stepper motor steps via software and this (obviously) stalled the engine and threw a fault code.
So far - with the codes reset it seems to idle at warm nicely, if it throws another fault code I'll swap out the stepper motor. I recently bought 2 x used (but good) stepper motors from Jools as he collects them from ECU upgrades.
My engine is also historically run rich causing MOT issues. But step-by-step.....
glow worm said:
Don't know the cause yet , but I've got the same problem. Firstly stalling at lights/junctions then when in for MOT running very rich. Roverguage showed faults on both LAMBDAs , so they were replaced. However original LAMBDAs are no longer available , so Rimmer Bros supplied some Rover ones , some I believe are Chinese manufactured . Then I started having the revs racing like yourself . Replacement LAMDBAs have been sent by Rimmer Bros Roverguage (showed fault code on one of the new LAMBDAs) and air flow meter is also suspected . If it gets sorted I'll post what fixed mine.
Doesn't die every time and feels "lumpy" to me at constant speeds but no problem when accelerating.
Why don't you buy the ntk lambda sensors ? they're about 80 pounds each but are excellent. Though to be fair it sounds like you have other issues ...Doesn't die every time and feels "lumpy" to me at constant speeds but no problem when accelerating.
Perhaps I just give up too easily...
...but with a bunch of Chimaeras over 25 years & 300,000+ miles I regarded irregular idle as a fact of life. Too fast one day, none the next.
That in conjunction with a piss poor handbrake led to the foot on the brake & throttle at the same time on hilly starts.
...but with a bunch of Chimaeras over 25 years & 300,000+ miles I regarded irregular idle as a fact of life. Too fast one day, none the next.
That in conjunction with a piss poor handbrake led to the foot on the brake & throttle at the same time on hilly starts.
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
Perhaps I just give up too easily...
...but with a bunch of Chimaeras over 25 years & 300,000+ miles I regarded irregular idle as a fact of life. Too fast one day, none the next.
That in conjunction with a piss poor handbrake led to the foot on the brake & throttle at the same time on hilly starts.
Maybe but mine is less than 30,000 miles and has been fine until lack of use with COVID . Maybe it's got a cough ...but with a bunch of Chimaeras over 25 years & 300,000+ miles I regarded irregular idle as a fact of life. Too fast one day, none the next.
That in conjunction with a piss poor handbrake led to the foot on the brake & throttle at the same time on hilly starts.
I paid £80 each too IIRC .. I'll find out the make
glow worm said:
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
Perhaps I just give up too easily...
...but with a bunch of Chimaeras over 25 years & 300,000+ miles I regarded irregular idle as a fact of life. Too fast one day, none the next.
That in conjunction with a piss poor handbrake led to the foot on the brake & throttle at the same time on hilly starts.
Maybe but mine is less than 30,000 miles and has been fine until lack of use with COVID . Maybe it's got a cough ...but with a bunch of Chimaeras over 25 years & 300,000+ miles I regarded irregular idle as a fact of life. Too fast one day, none the next.
That in conjunction with a piss poor handbrake led to the foot on the brake & throttle at the same time on hilly starts.
I paid £80 each too IIRC .. I'll find out the make
Mine does something very similar too (revs flaring/stalling etc.) it drove me crazy and I ended up not driving it 
also similar to the issues reported by Dan here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... when left on the drive to warm up.
My current plan is just to go with an emerald/canems/whatever when I can afford to, otherwise I'm worried I'll just end up chasing problems/parts and never being able to enjoy it properly.
also similar to the issues reported by Dan here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... when left on the drive to warm up.My current plan is just to go with an emerald/canems/whatever when I can afford to, otherwise I'm worried I'll just end up chasing problems/parts and never being able to enjoy it properly.
al5x said:
Mine does something very similar too (revs flaring/stalling etc.) it drove me crazy and I ended up not driving it also similar to the issues reported by Dan here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... when left on the drive to warm up.
My current plan is just to go with an emerald/canems/whatever when I can afford to, otherwise I'm worried I'll just end up chasing problems/parts and never being able to enjoy it properly.
it can be frustrating but it's worth working your way through the problems as if you have a vacuum leak, faulty sensors a new ecu will not fix them. Methodically use rovergauge results (post the logs on here, you'll get advice), then without buying parts and parts just by process of elimination. Stay with it rather than just spending over £2k. also similar to the issues reported by Dan here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... when left on the drive to warm up.My current plan is just to go with an emerald/canems/whatever when I can afford to, otherwise I'm worried I'll just end up chasing problems/parts and never being able to enjoy it properly.
Chimp871 said:
al5x said:
Mine does something very similar too (revs flaring/stalling etc.) it drove me crazy and I ended up not driving it also similar to the issues reported by Dan here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... when left on the drive to warm up.
My current plan is just to go with an emerald/canems/whatever when I can afford to, otherwise I'm worried I'll just end up chasing problems/parts and never being able to enjoy it properly.
it can be frustrating but it's worth working your way through the problems as if you have a vacuum leak, faulty sensors a new ecu will not fix them. Methodically use rovergauge results (post the logs on here, you'll get advice), then without buying parts and parts just by process of elimination. Stay with it rather than just spending over £2k. also similar to the issues reported by Dan here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... when left on the drive to warm up.My current plan is just to go with an emerald/canems/whatever when I can afford to, otherwise I'm worried I'll just end up chasing problems/parts and never being able to enjoy it properly.
I've currently got a new garage being built, so once thats sorted I'll (hopefully) be able to tinker bit more.
spitfire4v8 said:
Why don't you buy the ntk lambda sensors ? they're about 80 pounds each but are excellent. Though to be fair it sounds like you have other issues ...
If you can get hold of NTK Lambdas at all , I'll have 4 and if you can get them for £80 I'll have dozen The suspect new Lambdas will be changed this week for a different make... Showing faults again on both on Roverguage with voltage variations of -75 to +25 , issue thought to relate to wiring in the sensors when running hot... We'll see what happens
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