First Impreza, 1 week in, and PROBLEMS!
Discussion
Not sure if this will be of any great help but our bug eyed wagon (2001) experienced similar symptoms to the 2nd problem you described in your original post. Rough idling, virtually impossible to drive in fact. Our engine management light was illuminated whilst this problem was continuing. Took it to local dealership and they said it could have been one of two problems - either gunged up throttle housing or a tumble generator unit fault (not sure if your car is fitted with this part?). As a first resort and cheaper option they cleaned out throttle housing which initially cured the problem, however after a week or two car started to run very rough again and light re-illuminated. So, obviously tumble generator unit was the problem. We sourced all the parts required through parts gateway (buying specific parts instead of whole unit). Also could be sourced through David O'Brien of API Engines, who I could thoroughly recommend.
Anyway, once the part was fitted the car has run like new and no problems experienced since.
Sorry for the ramble and hope this helps.
Anyway, once the part was fitted the car has run like new and no problems experienced since.
Sorry for the ramble and hope this helps.
themike888 said:
Ok guys, read the fault codes just now (cheers xxgomxx), and it threw up-
22- knock sensor
23- Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit
32- Oxygen Sensor
Given what some have suggested being the fuel filter and/or pump, (and the more I think about it the more it seems clearly like a fuelling issue), could any of these be the root cause? My worry now being that I could be looking at a combination of several problems!?
To pull 3 codes up like that at the same time doesn't mean there are issues with each one. One issue can cause others to trigger even though there is nothing wrong with any of those sensors.22- knock sensor
23- Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit
32- Oxygen Sensor
Given what some have suggested being the fuel filter and/or pump, (and the more I think about it the more it seems clearly like a fuelling issue), could any of these be the root cause? My worry now being that I could be looking at a combination of several problems!?
Check and clean the bits you have to and go through the process of resetting your ECU. Then drive it and see what happens before you go splashing out on new sensors.
The knock sensor on my Legacy threw up the eml and gave a slight missfire and very minor loss of power. Replaced with a genuine part from import car parts for half the price of a dealer part and that was that problem solved. £40 from memory and 2 mins to change. Obviously i doubt this would be your only issue but could be one problem as these do fail.
Clear the faults by dis connecting you battery for 30 mins then drive it. The codes code have been previous problems that have been fixed but codes hadn't been reset. Drive the car for 30 mins and check again.
I Stick by the maf issue, but running the car on 95 ron is a massive no no.
Phil
I Stick by the maf issue, but running the car on 95 ron is a massive no no.
Phil
My Advice.
Get the Car to a decent Mapper/Specialist and get them to check it over. Chances with the Uprated Fuel Pump that its been previously mapped, and to what level, Who Know's. Possibly been put back to standard bits but the Map not adjusted taking into account possible change of Zorst system and Breathing Mods.
Only my opinion, but unless you trust the previous owner and no for sure exactly whats been done to the car previously, then for the small outlay its worth its weight in gold for piece of Mind. They will also find out your fault!!
Get the Car to a decent Mapper/Specialist and get them to check it over. Chances with the Uprated Fuel Pump that its been previously mapped, and to what level, Who Know's. Possibly been put back to standard bits but the Map not adjusted taking into account possible change of Zorst system and Breathing Mods.
Only my opinion, but unless you trust the previous owner and no for sure exactly whats been done to the car previously, then for the small outlay its worth its weight in gold for piece of Mind. They will also find out your fault!!
DC5TEG said:
My Advice.
Get the Car to a decent Mapper/Specialist and get them to check it over. Chances with the Uprated Fuel Pump that its been previously mapped, and to what level, Who Know's. Possibly been put back to standard bits but the Map not adjusted taking into account possible change of Zorst system and Breathing Mods.
Only my opinion, but unless you trust the previous owner and no for sure exactly whats been done to the car previously, then for the small outlay its worth its weight in gold for piece of Mind. They will also find out your fault!!
I plan to mate. Had originally planned to take it to a local specialist for a service and check over as a matter of course when I bought it. So now it's gone from a precautionary measure to a must!Get the Car to a decent Mapper/Specialist and get them to check it over. Chances with the Uprated Fuel Pump that its been previously mapped, and to what level, Who Know's. Possibly been put back to standard bits but the Map not adjusted taking into account possible change of Zorst system and Breathing Mods.
Only my opinion, but unless you trust the previous owner and no for sure exactly whats been done to the car previously, then for the small outlay its worth its weight in gold for piece of Mind. They will also find out your fault!!
Just wanted to post the issues on here because I know there's a wealth of knowledge and expertise, and got to say I really appreciate everyone taking the time to make an input and give their advice
How annoying mate.
Could be worse though - i bought a newage V7 STi Prodrive Edition with failed rear suspension. Nursed it home 250 miles. Took it immediately to get new rear suspension, new lambda sensor, some diagnostic work, some wiring.....£700 later I pick it up. 25 mins after that the engine starts knocking!
Now I've had the engine replaced with a 42k V9 engine... £2k later.......... LOL!
Love the car to pieces though :-)
.....I'd question the STi pump. Why fit one if running standard apart from the exhaust? Start with that before messing around with a load of things. Do 1 thing at a time and discount it in order. MAF possibly, Fuel filter possibly.... Is the MAF the correct one for the year?
What about an injector connector / injector?
They could be dried up or have a loose connection (my 05 Vectra CdtI has just had that exact issue and that's what I traced it down to.... Squirt of contact cleaner later and been good for months now!).
Good luck and keep us posted... All part of the fun.
G.
Could be worse though - i bought a newage V7 STi Prodrive Edition with failed rear suspension. Nursed it home 250 miles. Took it immediately to get new rear suspension, new lambda sensor, some diagnostic work, some wiring.....£700 later I pick it up. 25 mins after that the engine starts knocking!
Now I've had the engine replaced with a 42k V9 engine... £2k later.......... LOL!
Love the car to pieces though :-)
.....I'd question the STi pump. Why fit one if running standard apart from the exhaust? Start with that before messing around with a load of things. Do 1 thing at a time and discount it in order. MAF possibly, Fuel filter possibly.... Is the MAF the correct one for the year?
What about an injector connector / injector?
They could be dried up or have a loose connection (my 05 Vectra CdtI has just had that exact issue and that's what I traced it down to.... Squirt of contact cleaner later and been good for months now!).
Good luck and keep us posted... All part of the fun.
G.
Quick update guys-
Car running much better on 99 (funny that!
) and since resetting the fault codes haven't had anymore flash up in 130 miles of driving. Haven't had any stall, surge issues, or fuel cut, although I have been generally gentler on the car anyway.
The only problem that persists is the hesitation around 2-3k on part throttle. Basically the car shudders a little on a steady throttle at that point, for example when just driving through town. Changing gear clears it, but it will only do it for a few moments before the revs build again anyway with it clearing just as boost begins to build. It seems worst when the car has been started again after a drive, i.e I won't do it for 30 miles, but if I shut off and start again it will do it a few times. Leaning towards maybe an issue with coil packs/ht leads/spark plugs I think?......
I'll be taking the car into a local specialist at the end of the month, but any thoughts in the mean-time appreciated folks.
Car running much better on 99 (funny that!
) and since resetting the fault codes haven't had anymore flash up in 130 miles of driving. Haven't had any stall, surge issues, or fuel cut, although I have been generally gentler on the car anyway. The only problem that persists is the hesitation around 2-3k on part throttle. Basically the car shudders a little on a steady throttle at that point, for example when just driving through town. Changing gear clears it, but it will only do it for a few moments before the revs build again anyway with it clearing just as boost begins to build. It seems worst when the car has been started again after a drive, i.e I won't do it for 30 miles, but if I shut off and start again it will do it a few times. Leaning towards maybe an issue with coil packs/ht leads/spark plugs I think?......
I'll be taking the car into a local specialist at the end of the month, but any thoughts in the mean-time appreciated folks.
Remap.
Sounds more to do with whatever mods are left on the car and the fact it may not be remapped to reflect the fact the H&S exhaust was removed. If it was remapped for a full decat and then you revert to nearly standard it will make big difference if not remapped again which is what you first thought in your opening post.
Glad it's running better though and well done for switching to 99RON. Nice one!!
Sounds more to do with whatever mods are left on the car and the fact it may not be remapped to reflect the fact the H&S exhaust was removed. If it was remapped for a full decat and then you revert to nearly standard it will make big difference if not remapped again which is what you first thought in your opening post.
Glad it's running better though and well done for switching to 99RON. Nice one!!
Thanks for the kind comment 
Unfortunately 99/00 cars are the only scoobs i don't do due to the remapping tools i use not having that inclusion, and i'm not going to be in Pitlochry for a couple of months yet anyway.
Your nearest place is probably AWD Motorsport in Perth. They are a nice bunch of chaps, very helpful, and know their stuff. I'm sure they use Andy Forest for their remaps.
Alternatively try Andy direct, if you can get hold of him somehow by email, telephone or carrier pigeon and drive down to Port Seton.
Actually, i reckon you stand a better chance going through AWD and it's local.
Good luck with it
Unfortunately 99/00 cars are the only scoobs i don't do due to the remapping tools i use not having that inclusion, and i'm not going to be in Pitlochry for a couple of months yet anyway.
Your nearest place is probably AWD Motorsport in Perth. They are a nice bunch of chaps, very helpful, and know their stuff. I'm sure they use Andy Forest for their remaps.
Alternatively try Andy direct, if you can get hold of him somehow by email, telephone or carrier pigeon and drive down to Port Seton.
Actually, i reckon you stand a better chance going through AWD and it's local.
Good luck with it
ScoobieWRX said:
Got to be about £550-£650+vat if there isn't an EcuTek licence on it. Deduct about £150+vat if there is already an EcuTek licence on your ECU.
That's generally par for the course with EcuTek dealers.
Thanks for the reply bud. Its something i am thinking of in the Future. Will wait possibly till the Standard Exhaust is shot, then put a full system and Map on it! In saying that, it is damm tempting to do that the now,lol, but i got my Supercharged Elise for weekend power fun.That's generally par for the course with EcuTek dealers.
DC5TEG said:
ScoobieWRX said:
Got to be about £550-£650+vat if there isn't an EcuTek licence on it. Deduct about £150+vat if there is already an EcuTek licence on your ECU.
That's generally par for the course with EcuTek dealers.
Thanks for the reply bud. Its something i am thinking of in the Future. Will wait possibly till the Standard Exhaust is shot, then put a full system and Map on it! In saying that, it is damm tempting to do that the now,lol, but i got my Supercharged Elise for weekend power fun.That's generally par for the course with EcuTek dealers.
Supercharged Elise for the weekends....awesome!!
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