bugeye/blobeye wagon and saloon differences - just cosmetic?
Discussion
Flat panel air filter, decat uppipe and center pipe, de-resonated middle pipe and nice backbox, leave the main cat in the downpipe for emissions purposes come MOT time, or go fully decat if you can get around that issue. Stick to the manufacturers 2"5/8 diameter piping. Keeps the noise down but retains a sweet burble. You don't need a 3" system. Remap to finish off and tie it all together and your 182 will be a distant memory.
Get some proper performance brake pads and braided brake hoses to firm up the brake pedal and it will stop a lot better too. Leave the suspension as is to soak up crappy UK roads, they still handle pretty good out the box.
Welcome to the darkside
Get some proper performance brake pads and braided brake hoses to firm up the brake pedal and it will stop a lot better too. Leave the suspension as is to soak up crappy UK roads, they still handle pretty good out the box.
Welcome to the darkside
ScoobieWRX said:
...Get some proper performance brake pads and braided brake hoses to firm up the brake pedal and it will stop a lot better too. Leave the suspension as is to soak up crappy UK roads, they still handle pretty good out the box....
+1 on the brakes.Re suspension - stock springs are OK, but you can add an STI rear ARB and subframe locking bolts for peanuts which will tighten the rear end up and dial out a bit of understeer.
Thanks again guys, and tanks for the email ScoobieWRX 
Well, I've finally got my 182 up for sale (on PH classifieds I might add ), so hopefully getting by bum in an Impreza will soon be a reality. Got someone interested in mine, looking at it Tuesday night, but I won't hold my breath until then.
Seen quite a few wagons on PH that I like the look of at the mo anyway.
For a start, this looks quite good, but a touch higher miles and a bit older than I want, looks good though:
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/4022923.htm
This one is a bit more like what I'd be after:
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/4017582.htm
So, on the exhaust front, what are my options for something not too intrusive, but releasing some of the burble? H&S? Prodrive? Miltek?
Are they generally cat back? So any cat replacement pipes would be separate?
Well, I've finally got my 182 up for sale (on PH classifieds I might add
), so hopefully getting by bum in an Impreza will soon be a reality. Got someone interested in mine, looking at it Tuesday night, but I won't hold my breath until then.Seen quite a few wagons on PH that I like the look of at the mo anyway.
For a start, this looks quite good, but a touch higher miles and a bit older than I want, looks good though:
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/4022923.htm
This one is a bit more like what I'd be after:
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/4017582.htm
So, on the exhaust front, what are my options for something not too intrusive, but releasing some of the burble? H&S? Prodrive? Miltek?
Are they generally cat back? So any cat replacement pipes would be separate?
You have 3 cats on a WRX...Uppipe - Downpipe - Centre pipe. To get you through emissions you just need to get rid of two cats. I would be doing the uppipe (pre-cat) and middle pipe (scrubber), leaving the downpipe alone. Guaranteed to get you through MOT and you'll realise the full potential of the standard injectors and turbo.
That example of 103K car looks nice. Don't let the mileage put you off, bugeye Impreza wear really well and if it's in really nice condition you're quids in. Good value for money.
It's got a 3" system so you'll have to find out if it's been fully decatted in which case it's going to need a remap if it hasn't been done already, as the Prodrive mapping doesn't take that into account.
If you want to keep it quiet but burbly get a standard OEM diameter stainless system (2.5/8"), go fully decatted if you know a friendly MOT station
otherwise leave the OEM main cat in place, decent flat panel air filter, get it remapped and you're away.
IMHO bugeye sportwagon WRX are the best of the newage WRX cars. They have more character, handle well out of the box, and are equally as quick as later WRX.
That example of 103K car looks nice. Don't let the mileage put you off, bugeye Impreza wear really well and if it's in really nice condition you're quids in. Good value for money.
It's got a 3" system so you'll have to find out if it's been fully decatted in which case it's going to need a remap if it hasn't been done already, as the Prodrive mapping doesn't take that into account.
If you want to keep it quiet but burbly get a standard OEM diameter stainless system (2.5/8"), go fully decatted if you know a friendly MOT station
otherwise leave the OEM main cat in place, decent flat panel air filter, get it remapped and you're away.IMHO bugeye sportwagon WRX are the best of the newage WRX cars. They have more character, handle well out of the box, and are equally as quick as later WRX.
ScoobieWRX said:
You have 3 cats on a WRX...Uppipe - Downpipe - Centre pipe. To get you through emissions you just need to get rid of two cats. I would be doing the uppipe (pre-cat) and middle pipe (scrubber), leaving the downpipe alone. Guaranteed to get you through MOT and you'll realise the full potential of the standard injectors and turbo.
Apologies for the forthcoming thread hijack! I've been pondering this myself, if I removed the pre CAT and scrubber would I need a remap? As in would there be any noticable perfomance gains from just removing the cats or none noticable until getting a remap after removing the CAT?
Hope that makes sense!
cheers
Antony
Removing the precat means you've removed the obstruction between the exhaust manifold and turbo. This will help with quicker turbo spoolup. You should notice a small difference (turbo kicking in a touch earlier) even without remapping.
Removing the scrubber removes another obstruction after the exhaust and lowers back pressure. This should help with quicker spoolup in addition to the precat and you should see a little rise in power although without a remap it will be small and you may not actually notice it physically with your bum dyno. You should get a little overboost as well which is fine so long as it isn't overboosting too much.
Leaving the main cat in place just makes sure you get through the emissions part of the MOT test when done by the book. I'm not sure if taking out the main cat and leaving in the scrubber instead will get you through emissions. I can't say yes for sure however, if it does, taking out the main and leaving the scrubber instead should improve things further but you will see overboost for sure, by how much is hard to say from car to car because they are all different but it will be higher than leaving just the main in place.
My guess is, if your MOT is due soon get that over and done with this time. Afterwards do the mods and buy a system that's compatible with the factory OEM system, that way when it comes time for the next MOT you can always temporarily plumb the main cat and scrubber back in, do the MOT and then swap back again. The alternative is find a friendly MOT place.
All in all there is no substitute for a remap. That's the only way you're going to see proper gains. Going part decat and doing nothing else will make your car sound good but you will only see nominal gains if any at all. If you're spending good money on mods get a remap and do a proper job.
Removing the scrubber removes another obstruction after the exhaust and lowers back pressure. This should help with quicker spoolup in addition to the precat and you should see a little rise in power although without a remap it will be small and you may not actually notice it physically with your bum dyno. You should get a little overboost as well which is fine so long as it isn't overboosting too much.
Leaving the main cat in place just makes sure you get through the emissions part of the MOT test when done by the book. I'm not sure if taking out the main cat and leaving in the scrubber instead will get you through emissions. I can't say yes for sure however, if it does, taking out the main and leaving the scrubber instead should improve things further but you will see overboost for sure, by how much is hard to say from car to car because they are all different but it will be higher than leaving just the main in place.
My guess is, if your MOT is due soon get that over and done with this time. Afterwards do the mods and buy a system that's compatible with the factory OEM system, that way when it comes time for the next MOT you can always temporarily plumb the main cat and scrubber back in, do the MOT and then swap back again. The alternative is find a friendly MOT place.
All in all there is no substitute for a remap. That's the only way you're going to see proper gains. Going part decat and doing nothing else will make your car sound good but you will only see nominal gains if any at all. If you're spending good money on mods get a remap and do a proper job.
ScoobieWRX said:
I'm not sure if taking out the main cat and leaving in the scrubber instead will get you through emissions.
I have read a few times that it does, but don't have direct experience with this myself. Regardless, the ECU will be able to do far less to help (assuming it does help with the process) as the lambda sensor is before the actual scrubber cat.Most cars from idle to 2500rpm stationary at around 14.4-14.7afr, even if you ran leaner it doesn't mean it's going to get through emissions testing, you need a cat to get through.
I have a 100CELL cat in the downpipe of my 3" system. It's effing hopeless, might as well not be there. I'm going to remove it.
I don't know how dense the factory scrubber cat is although the main cat is a known quantity at 600cell density.
I have a 100CELL cat in the downpipe of my 3" system. It's effing hopeless, might as well not be there. I'm going to remove it.
I don't know how dense the factory scrubber cat is although the main cat is a known quantity at 600cell density.
Edited by ScoobieWRX on Monday 2nd July 22:19
ScoobieWRX said:
Removing the precat means you've removed the obstruction between the exhaust manifold and turbo. This will help with quicker turbo spoolup. You should notice a small difference (turbo kicking in a touch earlier) even without remapping.
Removing the scrubber removes another obstruction after the exhaust and lowers back pressure. This should help with quicker spoolup in addition to the precat and you should see a little rise in power although without a remap it will be small and you may not actually notice it physically with your bum dyno. You should get a little overboost as well which is fine so long as it isn't overboosting too much.
Leaving the main cat in place just makes sure you get through the emissions part of the MOT test when done by the book. I'm not sure if taking out the main cat and leaving in the scrubber instead will get you through emissions. I can't say yes for sure however, if it does, taking out the main and leaving the scrubber instead should improve things further but you will see overboost for sure, by how much is hard to say from car to car because they are all different but it will be higher than leaving just the main in place.
My guess is, if your MOT is due soon get that over and done with this time. Afterwards do the mods and buy a system that's compatible with the factory OEM system, that way when it comes time for the next MOT you can always temporarily plumb the main cat and scrubber back in, do the MOT and then swap back again. The alternative is find a friendly MOT place.
All in all there is no substitute for a remap. That's the only way you're going to see proper gains. Going part decat and doing nothing else will make your car sound good but you will only see nominal gains if any at all. If you're spending good money on mods get a remap and do a proper job.
Top advice thank you Removing the scrubber removes another obstruction after the exhaust and lowers back pressure. This should help with quicker spoolup in addition to the precat and you should see a little rise in power although without a remap it will be small and you may not actually notice it physically with your bum dyno. You should get a little overboost as well which is fine so long as it isn't overboosting too much.
Leaving the main cat in place just makes sure you get through the emissions part of the MOT test when done by the book. I'm not sure if taking out the main cat and leaving in the scrubber instead will get you through emissions. I can't say yes for sure however, if it does, taking out the main and leaving the scrubber instead should improve things further but you will see overboost for sure, by how much is hard to say from car to car because they are all different but it will be higher than leaving just the main in place.
My guess is, if your MOT is due soon get that over and done with this time. Afterwards do the mods and buy a system that's compatible with the factory OEM system, that way when it comes time for the next MOT you can always temporarily plumb the main cat and scrubber back in, do the MOT and then swap back again. The alternative is find a friendly MOT place.
All in all there is no substitute for a remap. That's the only way you're going to see proper gains. Going part decat and doing nothing else will make your car sound good but you will only see nominal gains if any at all. If you're spending good money on mods get a remap and do a proper job.
appreicate the time you've put in to replying Another question, sorry!
Getting a remap by itself without any kind of mechanical changes at all, good idea or bad?
The factory map isn't perfect. There are always things you can do to get rid of flat spots, better/more accurate fuelling, bit more economy, sharper throttle (so long as you change the air filter for a high flow type) on a standard car.
As for significant gains in power/torque, not significant but there is definitely room for improvement. I've seen bog standard cars safely gain between 15-25bhp/20-35lbft, and others have been very hard work to get anywhere near the same. Every car is different so it's hard to say with yours.
IMHO for the amount a remap costs mapping a bog standard car isn't very cost effective because bang per buck will be quite low but it's your money and the customer gets what they want. Your bum dyno will definitely tell you there has been a marked improvement but it won't be neck snapping.
However, do the mods and the remap becomes well worth paying for with a much higher bang per buck ratio. Equally, you'll know it's been remapped. The difference is night and day. When you go from 220-225bhp to 270-280bhp and somewhere around 290-300lb/ft that 50bhp and hike in torque makes a massive difference.
Go on treat yourself.
As for significant gains in power/torque, not significant but there is definitely room for improvement. I've seen bog standard cars safely gain between 15-25bhp/20-35lbft, and others have been very hard work to get anywhere near the same. Every car is different so it's hard to say with yours.
IMHO for the amount a remap costs mapping a bog standard car isn't very cost effective because bang per buck will be quite low but it's your money and the customer gets what they want. Your bum dyno will definitely tell you there has been a marked improvement but it won't be neck snapping.
However, do the mods and the remap becomes well worth paying for with a much higher bang per buck ratio. Equally, you'll know it's been remapped. The difference is night and day. When you go from 220-225bhp to 270-280bhp and somewhere around 290-300lb/ft that 50bhp and hike in torque makes a massive difference.
Go on treat yourself.
paulmoonraker said:
^ agree. For a WRX PPP equivalent you should be able to get the stuff from ebay for a few hundred quid
Personally, the up pipe cat would be the last thing on my list. The other stuff is easy DIY, where as the up pipe is not so you may when up paying a mechanic.
Unscrew/Remove EGT and Lambda sensors - Unbolt uppipe from Turbo - Unbolt uppipe from exhaust headers - Unbolt exhaust headers from heads and drop. Uppipe slides out with a little twist and a jiggle.Personally, the up pipe cat would be the last thing on my list. The other stuff is easy DIY, where as the up pipe is not so you may when up paying a mechanic.
Assemble is reverse of above. I've lost count how many times i've done this exercise.
Uppipe is easy and very DIY.
If your wife insists you have soft hands you're never going to have a go. Lucky for me my partner doesn't mind my roughly chaffed hands
rough hands might scuff my leather steering wheel paulmoonraker said:
^ agree. For a WRX PPP equivalent you should be able to get the stuff from ebay for a few hundred quid
Personally, the up pipe cat would be the last thing on my list. The other stuff is easy DIY, where as the up pipe is not so you may when up paying a mechanic.
If you're canny, you can do the whole PPP-esque upgrade for < £200 (I managed to find all the parts to do mine and mapped it myself for ~£150! Personally, the up pipe cat would be the last thing on my list. The other stuff is easy DIY, where as the up pipe is not so you may when up paying a mechanic.
) If you stick with the stock PPP mods (Y pipe, decat link pipe & backbox), I have base map that you can flash to your ECU and that will match the mods perfectly. It's a pretty conservative map (just like the manufacturer would approve - hint) and there's still scope to tailor it to your car to extract the last few BHP (wide-band and knowledge permitting).
The map will run perfectly with the normal PPP mods, but you'd need to tweak it to prevent over-boost without the restriction of the extra cats.
Up pipe is not to hard to swap but it is still a bit of a ball ache compared to just swapping out the centre cat. IMHO, I wouldn't really bother swapping the up-pipe unless you were also planning on changing the turbo at the same time.
Edited by Gigsy on Monday 9th July 13:04
Cheers for that.
If I see a car within budget with PPP then I'd probably go for it, although only if the rest of the car is up to scratch. I'd certainly not pay over the odds for it anyway.
Way I see it, I either get a std car, slowly gather the bits for decats, etc then get it booked in for a remap, or if I buy a PPP, see how I feel about for a little while, then maybe look to tweak a bit more & get a remap at a later date. A std car would be getting mapped sooner rather than later as I think I'd soon want the extra oomph
Now please, someone buy my lovely 182!!
If I see a car within budget with PPP then I'd probably go for it, although only if the rest of the car is up to scratch. I'd certainly not pay over the odds for it anyway.
Way I see it, I either get a std car, slowly gather the bits for decats, etc then get it booked in for a remap, or if I buy a PPP, see how I feel about for a little while, then maybe look to tweak a bit more & get a remap at a later date. A std car would be getting mapped sooner rather than later as I think I'd soon want the extra oomph
Now please, someone buy my lovely 182!!
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