STI 2006 - To tune or not to tune, that's the question?
Discussion
My cars got around 77k on the clock, running really well.
Might sound crazy but would modding the car make it more reliable? E. G. If I forged the engine and upgraded the head gasket (cosworth? Sorry for lack of knowledge + other bits + new turbo) would this decrease the chances of engine failure?
I like the idea of reconditioning parts. I reconditioned the brakes on my old e46 m3 and loved the difference. Really like the idea of 'up cycling'.
Also would selling a car forged increase the value at all given that its rebuilt?
I think I remember seeing it costing £6k or so to rebuild, so I doubt you would get that, but could you sell for say £12k (rebuilt) rather than say £10k (stock) as it currently stands?
Might sound crazy but would modding the car make it more reliable? E. G. If I forged the engine and upgraded the head gasket (cosworth? Sorry for lack of knowledge + other bits + new turbo) would this decrease the chances of engine failure?
I like the idea of reconditioning parts. I reconditioned the brakes on my old e46 m3 and loved the difference. Really like the idea of 'up cycling'.
Also would selling a car forged increase the value at all given that its rebuilt?
I think I remember seeing it costing £6k or so to rebuild, so I doubt you would get that, but could you sell for say £12k (rebuilt) rather than say £10k (stock) as it currently stands?
I would get the map checked and upgrade things as and when they become a problem. I'm now on 380bhp on the standard engine just with uprated head gaskets and ARP head studs with an SC42 turbo.
I love my twin scroll as the power is strong from low down and I think it sounds better than a single scroll at full chat but unfortunately doesn't have that nice burble at low revs.
I love my twin scroll as the power is strong from low down and I think it sounds better than a single scroll at full chat but unfortunately doesn't have that nice burble at low revs.
Elatino1 said:
I would get the map checked and upgrade things as and when they become a problem. I'm now on 380bhp on the standard engine just with uprated head gaskets and ARP head studs with an SC42 turbo.
I love my twin scroll as the power is strong from low down and I think it sounds better than a single scroll at full chat but unfortunately doesn't have that nice burble at low revs.
380 bhp seems a good wack. I love my twin scroll as the power is strong from low down and I think it sounds better than a single scroll at full chat but unfortunately doesn't have that nice burble at low revs.
Is that a twin scroll on a 2L or 2.5L?
I like the idea of a twin scroll on a 2.5L but I think it's a lot of work. If changing the turbo on a 2.5L then might be tempting
I don't mind no turbo power sub 3k (single turbo 2.5L) as I can just pootle along and get good mpg (my average speed is 25mph or something).
What would be nice is power from 3k all the way up, rather than just mid range power, so maybe a bigger twin scroll turbo and forged, then I guess better intercooler too?
I'm worried if I do anything to my 2.5L it will increase chances of headgasket or something, so would prefer to say put £1k aside per year and upgrade as I go along.
Normally I would use second hand parts (on exterior / interior fittings etc), but not sure if engine. The concept of billet steel everywhere is pretty rad.
Often with modifying cars, you can easily finish with something far away from your original objective.
So far that buying the right car in the first place would have been cheaper and easier to sell.
I run an 05 Blob PPP Wagon. The only things I've changed are the brakes, Godspeed, and air filter. The shocks wore out so are now Pedders but not fancy coil overs etc.
It has flaws but they are easy to live with.
If I want something else I'll sell it and but another car.
Maybe you have the correct car but wrong model?
Just a thought.
I've always gone for standard cars and pretty much left them that way. I've never messed with the engine innards.
From reading the thread I would look at a JDM model. Find the right one and leave it pretty much stock. You'll sell it much easier when the time comes.
edit; There are lots of smallish things to do. Exhaust, wheels, but when you go to a meet with other owners, the stand out cars are very often the ones kept standard and very well looked after. They are the ones I gravitate toward.
So far that buying the right car in the first place would have been cheaper and easier to sell.
I run an 05 Blob PPP Wagon. The only things I've changed are the brakes, Godspeed, and air filter. The shocks wore out so are now Pedders but not fancy coil overs etc.
It has flaws but they are easy to live with.
If I want something else I'll sell it and but another car.
Maybe you have the correct car but wrong model?
Just a thought.
I've always gone for standard cars and pretty much left them that way. I've never messed with the engine innards.
From reading the thread I would look at a JDM model. Find the right one and leave it pretty much stock. You'll sell it much easier when the time comes.
edit; There are lots of smallish things to do. Exhaust, wheels, but when you go to a meet with other owners, the stand out cars are very often the ones kept standard and very well looked after. They are the ones I gravitate toward.
Edited by FastEdd11e on Monday 8th March 09:14
I think any sensible modifications will be seen as such by a potential future buyer. Exhaust, panel filter and remap are not going to affect a future resale value and can be undone if the new buyer really wanted to.
Things like coil-overs, cone filters, big rims etc. are open for discussion and are personal preference but at the end of the day it is your car and so do with it as you see fit.
Unless it's really special or rare the future value is not going to take a huge hit with any modifications in real terms. These cars will either die as a result of rust or accident, those that last will be cherished more as they get older.
Things like coil-overs, cone filters, big rims etc. are open for discussion and are personal preference but at the end of the day it is your car and so do with it as you see fit.
Unless it's really special or rare the future value is not going to take a huge hit with any modifications in real terms. These cars will either die as a result of rust or accident, those that last will be cherished more as they get older.
theog87 said:
380 bhp seems a good wack.
Is that a twin scroll on a 2L or 2.5L?
I like the idea of a twin scroll on a 2.5L but I think it's a lot of work. If changing the turbo on a 2.5L then might be tempting
I don't mind no turbo power sub 3k (single turbo 2.5L) as I can just pootle along and get good mpg (my average speed is 25mph or something).
What would be nice is power from 3k all the way up, rather than just mid range power, so maybe a bigger twin scroll turbo and forged, then I guess better intercooler too?
I'm worried if I do anything to my 2.5L it will increase chances of headgasket or something, so would prefer to say put £1k aside per year and upgrade as I go along.
Normally I would use second hand parts (on exterior / interior fittings etc), but not sure if engine. The concept of billet steel everywhere is pretty rad.
It's a 2.0 Spec C type RA. I believe it is quite a lot of work t convert a single scroll to twin scroll, different manifolds etc. Is that a twin scroll on a 2L or 2.5L?
I like the idea of a twin scroll on a 2.5L but I think it's a lot of work. If changing the turbo on a 2.5L then might be tempting
I don't mind no turbo power sub 3k (single turbo 2.5L) as I can just pootle along and get good mpg (my average speed is 25mph or something).
What would be nice is power from 3k all the way up, rather than just mid range power, so maybe a bigger twin scroll turbo and forged, then I guess better intercooler too?
I'm worried if I do anything to my 2.5L it will increase chances of headgasket or something, so would prefer to say put £1k aside per year and upgrade as I go along.
Normally I would use second hand parts (on exterior / interior fittings etc), but not sure if engine. The concept of billet steel everywhere is pretty rad.
The power comes on at about 3k revs and is strong all the way to 7.5k. Apparently if I want the full 420bhp that the turbo is capable of I just need injectors and a front mount intercooler.
It's nice to know theres a bit more scope but it feels like a beast as it is.
My current issue is that being a widetrack there is very limited options for a set of coilovers and one 9f my shocks is knocking. Nitrons are £3k+ !!!
Ok thanks for the info.
So lets just say (hard to tell really) that I fully forge the engine, without turbo chargers etc just rebuilt for peace of mind (head gasket issues and the likes of). Say this costs £5-6k.
If i bought the car for ~£10k. Do you think it would still be worth £10k or gone down, or up?
Just thinking I could do bit's at a time to save up front costs. Question is, will it trash the overall value of the car, whilst spending £xxxx?
Just got the car back from an indy scuby place (just did a health check for peace of mind) and they said there could be signs of head gasket issues, but could be fine. He said to keep an eye on coolant levels, oil levels and temps. I normally glance at temps (on dash) frequently when driving, and will check oil + coolants before every drive (only drive on weekends) and when car is cool.
From what I gather when it next goes in (a month or so time) he is going to replace fluids and 'give it a clean' (sorry for lack of knowledge) and then I will bring back in a couple of months to see if the same issue. I believe he is referring to oil getting into the coolant... once again, sorry for lack of knowledge. He said the engine coolant level rose quite a bit, which could be a sign of something funny!? I might have been totally misunderstanding it, so sorry if I'm adding confusion.
On a separate note, he noticed some oil splashes, which could have been done when a DIY oil change was done (before i owned the car), or could be a sign of oil leaking from the engine. He said he will need to take off cambelt to have a proper look "OIL LEAKAGE APPARENT AT N/S CAMBELT CASING AND CENTRE CAMBELT CASING, POSSIBLE CAM SEAL LEAKAGE OR BLOCK BUNG LEAK,"... he said he wouldn't really know what it is until cambelt is off, so said he may as well do a cambelt change whilst at it. Also fluid change wont hurt. Cambelt change n fluids (~£600 ex any other nasties).
I'm guessing I have done around 1.5k miles in the car since i got it (~a month ago) and I'm pretty positive the engine oil hasn't gone (check fairly frequently), but then again i guess even if it has a leak it will be small amounts? FYI no oil leaks on the floor in my garage where I keep it the whole time.
For what it's worth, he did a test drive of the car and said it's pulling well and doesn't miss a beat. Only slight thing to notice is break pads probably need doing (which i knew).
FYI this was the East Kent Subaru. For what it's worth, they seemed pretty legit and very nice chaps.
So lets just say (hard to tell really) that I fully forge the engine, without turbo chargers etc just rebuilt for peace of mind (head gasket issues and the likes of). Say this costs £5-6k.
If i bought the car for ~£10k. Do you think it would still be worth £10k or gone down, or up?
Just thinking I could do bit's at a time to save up front costs. Question is, will it trash the overall value of the car, whilst spending £xxxx?
Just got the car back from an indy scuby place (just did a health check for peace of mind) and they said there could be signs of head gasket issues, but could be fine. He said to keep an eye on coolant levels, oil levels and temps. I normally glance at temps (on dash) frequently when driving, and will check oil + coolants before every drive (only drive on weekends) and when car is cool.
From what I gather when it next goes in (a month or so time) he is going to replace fluids and 'give it a clean' (sorry for lack of knowledge) and then I will bring back in a couple of months to see if the same issue. I believe he is referring to oil getting into the coolant... once again, sorry for lack of knowledge. He said the engine coolant level rose quite a bit, which could be a sign of something funny!? I might have been totally misunderstanding it, so sorry if I'm adding confusion.
On a separate note, he noticed some oil splashes, which could have been done when a DIY oil change was done (before i owned the car), or could be a sign of oil leaking from the engine. He said he will need to take off cambelt to have a proper look "OIL LEAKAGE APPARENT AT N/S CAMBELT CASING AND CENTRE CAMBELT CASING, POSSIBLE CAM SEAL LEAKAGE OR BLOCK BUNG LEAK,"... he said he wouldn't really know what it is until cambelt is off, so said he may as well do a cambelt change whilst at it. Also fluid change wont hurt. Cambelt change n fluids (~£600 ex any other nasties).
I'm guessing I have done around 1.5k miles in the car since i got it (~a month ago) and I'm pretty positive the engine oil hasn't gone (check fairly frequently), but then again i guess even if it has a leak it will be small amounts? FYI no oil leaks on the floor in my garage where I keep it the whole time.
For what it's worth, he did a test drive of the car and said it's pulling well and doesn't miss a beat. Only slight thing to notice is break pads probably need doing (which i knew).
FYI this was the East Kent Subaru. For what it's worth, they seemed pretty legit and very nice chaps.
plenty said:
East Kent have been around for a long time and have a decent rep.
You won't get all your money back from forging, but you will add a bit of value and most importantly your car will be easier to sell on afterwards.
Ok great, just what I want to hear to be honest!You won't get all your money back from forging, but you will add a bit of value and most importantly your car will be easier to sell on afterwards.
I can imagine if put a massive pink wing on the back it probably wont be great, but 'health proof upgrades' i guess cant hurt.
theog87 said:
Ok thanks for the info.
So lets just say (hard to tell really) that I fully forge the engine, without turbo chargers etc just rebuilt for peace of mind (head gasket issues and the likes of). Say this costs £5-6k.
If i bought the car for ~£10k. Do you think it would still be worth £10k or gone down, or up?
Just thinking I could do bit's at a time to save up front costs. Question is, will it trash the overall value of the car, whilst spending £xxxx?
Just got the car back from an indy scuby place (just did a health check for peace of mind) and they said there could be signs of head gasket issues, but could be fine. He said to keep an eye on coolant levels, oil levels and temps. I normally glance at temps (on dash) frequently when driving, and will check oil + coolants before every drive (only drive on weekends) and when car is cool.
From what I gather when it next goes in (a month or so time) he is going to replace fluids and 'give it a clean' (sorry for lack of knowledge) and then I will bring back in a couple of months to see if the same issue. I believe he is referring to oil getting into the coolant... once again, sorry for lack of knowledge. He said the engine coolant level rose quite a bit, which could be a sign of something funny!? I might have been totally misunderstanding it, so sorry if I'm adding confusion.
On a separate note, he noticed some oil splashes, which could have been done when a DIY oil change was done (before i owned the car), or could be a sign of oil leaking from the engine. He said he will need to take off cambelt to have a proper look "OIL LEAKAGE APPARENT AT N/S CAMBELT CASING AND CENTRE CAMBELT CASING, POSSIBLE CAM SEAL LEAKAGE OR BLOCK BUNG LEAK,"... he said he wouldn't really know what it is until cambelt is off, so said he may as well do a cambelt change whilst at it. Also fluid change wont hurt. Cambelt change n fluids (~£600 ex any other nasties).
I'm guessing I have done around 1.5k miles in the car since i got it (~a month ago) and I'm pretty positive the engine oil hasn't gone (check fairly frequently), but then again i guess even if it has a leak it will be small amounts? FYI no oil leaks on the floor in my garage where I keep it the whole time.
For what it's worth, he did a test drive of the car and said it's pulling well and doesn't miss a beat. Only slight thing to notice is break pads probably need doing (which i knew).
FYI this was the East Kent Subaru. For what it's worth, they seemed pretty legit and very nice chaps.
Cam cover gaskets are a common thing and easy to resolve. Usually the drivers side will leak due to the higher temperatures from the turbo. Worth doing and likewise the cambelt is defo worth doing for peace of mind. I would certainly investigate further the oil/coolant thing. You can get a 'sniff test' which could determine any head gasket issues. Worth checking out before you shell out on the belts etc being done otherwise you will be seeing some big bills potentially. So lets just say (hard to tell really) that I fully forge the engine, without turbo chargers etc just rebuilt for peace of mind (head gasket issues and the likes of). Say this costs £5-6k.
If i bought the car for ~£10k. Do you think it would still be worth £10k or gone down, or up?
Just thinking I could do bit's at a time to save up front costs. Question is, will it trash the overall value of the car, whilst spending £xxxx?
Just got the car back from an indy scuby place (just did a health check for peace of mind) and they said there could be signs of head gasket issues, but could be fine. He said to keep an eye on coolant levels, oil levels and temps. I normally glance at temps (on dash) frequently when driving, and will check oil + coolants before every drive (only drive on weekends) and when car is cool.
From what I gather when it next goes in (a month or so time) he is going to replace fluids and 'give it a clean' (sorry for lack of knowledge) and then I will bring back in a couple of months to see if the same issue. I believe he is referring to oil getting into the coolant... once again, sorry for lack of knowledge. He said the engine coolant level rose quite a bit, which could be a sign of something funny!? I might have been totally misunderstanding it, so sorry if I'm adding confusion.
On a separate note, he noticed some oil splashes, which could have been done when a DIY oil change was done (before i owned the car), or could be a sign of oil leaking from the engine. He said he will need to take off cambelt to have a proper look "OIL LEAKAGE APPARENT AT N/S CAMBELT CASING AND CENTRE CAMBELT CASING, POSSIBLE CAM SEAL LEAKAGE OR BLOCK BUNG LEAK,"... he said he wouldn't really know what it is until cambelt is off, so said he may as well do a cambelt change whilst at it. Also fluid change wont hurt. Cambelt change n fluids (~£600 ex any other nasties).
I'm guessing I have done around 1.5k miles in the car since i got it (~a month ago) and I'm pretty positive the engine oil hasn't gone (check fairly frequently), but then again i guess even if it has a leak it will be small amounts? FYI no oil leaks on the floor in my garage where I keep it the whole time.
For what it's worth, he did a test drive of the car and said it's pulling well and doesn't miss a beat. Only slight thing to notice is break pads probably need doing (which i knew).
FYI this was the East Kent Subaru. For what it's worth, they seemed pretty legit and very nice chaps.
Depending on where you are I can happily recommend these guys: http://bentensautocare.co.uk/ Dedicated Subaru guys with superb service and a no nonsense and very honest approach to work. They have done any major work on my Blobeye for years and I'm always pleased with their work and prices.
Edited by Pupbelly on Friday 12th March 12:26
Edited by Pupbelly on Friday 12th March 12:27
Pupbelly said:
Cam cover gaskets are a common thing and easy to resolve. Usually the drivers side will leak due to the higher temperatures from the turbo. Worth doing and likewise the cambelt is defo worth doing for peace of mind. I would certainly investigate further the oil/coolant thing. You can get a 'sniff test' which could determine any head gasket issues. Worth checking out before you shell out on the belts etc being done otherwise you will be seeing some big bills potentially.
Depending on where you are I can happily recommend these guys: http://bentensautocare.co.uk/ Dedicated Subaru guys with superb service and a no nonsense and very honest approach to work. They have done any major work on my Blobeye for years and I'm always pleased with their work and prices.
I spoke to east kent and they said the sniff test is ok, but normally only really works when it's truly fu**ed, so he said he wouldn't really bother. That's just his opinion.Depending on where you are I can happily recommend these guys: http://bentensautocare.co.uk/ Dedicated Subaru guys with superb service and a no nonsense and very honest approach to work. They have done any major work on my Blobeye for years and I'm always pleased with their work and prices.
Edited by Pupbelly on Friday 12th March 12:26
Edited by Pupbelly on Friday 12th March 12:27
To be frank, often the biggest costs are the labour and getting the car there n back and organising it all. Sometimes easier just to go straight into it if you get me.
Never heard of bentens!? They are just down the road from me!!! Wish I had known sooner. That being said, the setup at east kent seems pretty comprehensive and it's pretty safe to say they have done more than a couple rebuilds, so somewhat tempted to stick with them to be honest. Not done any true work with them yet, so cant really vouch for them yet, but indications are good. Just hoping pricing wont escalate.
How much work you had done there? It is mainly stock stuff, or they known for more performance stuff? The guys at east kent seem almost more tuning work than standard stuff, which is quite interesting!
I've mainly been with BMW indys. I think they have their hands generally full enough with normal repairs hahaha
The truth is, I really dont mind paying people for a good job. It's just when your not technical, and you take your car to the average 'fixer', i cant help but feel cautious half the time. I generally stick with people I know, but going from BMW to subaru mean finding a new team so to speak.
Benten are a traditional independent with many many years of knowledge. Clive had worked for Subaru for 25+ years and really knows his stuff. They do engine rebuilds, in fact anything but are not performance tuners, they will give you good honest work for sensible money. I think unless you’re desperate to go the performance route they’re a good place to know and even if you do get yours done at East Kent, Benten will keep things running nicely for other things.
I’ve had my Blobeye wagon 6 years now (didn’t mean to but just love it!) and Benten do the stuff I can’t. Mine is mildly modified and Clive always give straight advice.
If you’re not driving your car hard point to point and track daying it a regular setup with sensible modifications and proper ECU map will see you fine for a daily driver.
Rust is the biggest enemy of our Imprezas. What looks shiny from the kerbside can be a whole world of pain underneath. I’d ensure yours it tip top underneath and make sure the rear turrets, rear arches and cills are all properly solid before committing to thousands of pounds of engine work. I’ve known many who shell out loads on the engine and polish the paint to find their car is rotten in crucial areas that mean either epic welding bills or scrapping the car!! Get it checked properly first.
I’ve had my Blobeye wagon 6 years now (didn’t mean to but just love it!) and Benten do the stuff I can’t. Mine is mildly modified and Clive always give straight advice.
If you’re not driving your car hard point to point and track daying it a regular setup with sensible modifications and proper ECU map will see you fine for a daily driver.
Rust is the biggest enemy of our Imprezas. What looks shiny from the kerbside can be a whole world of pain underneath. I’d ensure yours it tip top underneath and make sure the rear turrets, rear arches and cills are all properly solid before committing to thousands of pounds of engine work. I’ve known many who shell out loads on the engine and polish the paint to find their car is rotten in crucial areas that mean either epic welding bills or scrapping the car!! Get it checked properly first.
Edited by Pupbelly on Sunday 14th March 08:03
Edited by Pupbelly on Sunday 14th March 08:03
Pupbelly said:
Benten are a traditional independent with many many years of knowledge. Clive had worked for Subaru for 25+ years and really knows his stuff. They do engine rebuilds, in fact anything but are not performance tuners, they will give you good honest work for sensible money. I think unless you’re desperate to go the performance route they’re a good place to know and even if you do get yours done at East Kent, Benten will keep things running nicely for other things.
I’ve had my Blobeye wagon 6 years now (didn’t mean to but just love it!) and Benten do the stuff I can’t. Mine is mildly modified and Clive always give straight advice.
If you’re not driving your car hard point to point and track daying it a regular setup with sensible modifications and proper ECU map will see you fine for a daily driver.
Rust is the biggest enemy of our Imprezas. What looks shiny from the kerbside can be a whole world of pain underneath. I’d ensure yours it tip top underneath and make sure the rear turrets, rear arches and cills are all properly solid before committing to thousands of pounds of engine work. I’ve known many who shell out loads on the engine and polish the paint to find their car is rotten in crucial areas that mean either epic welding bills or scrapping the car!! Get it checked properly first.
Ok great thanks for this, great to know!I’ve had my Blobeye wagon 6 years now (didn’t mean to but just love it!) and Benten do the stuff I can’t. Mine is mildly modified and Clive always give straight advice.
If you’re not driving your car hard point to point and track daying it a regular setup with sensible modifications and proper ECU map will see you fine for a daily driver.
Rust is the biggest enemy of our Imprezas. What looks shiny from the kerbside can be a whole world of pain underneath. I’d ensure yours it tip top underneath and make sure the rear turrets, rear arches and cills are all properly solid before committing to thousands of pounds of engine work. I’ve known many who shell out loads on the engine and polish the paint to find their car is rotten in crucial areas that mean either epic welding bills or scrapping the car!! Get it checked properly first.
Edited by Pupbelly on Sunday 14th March 08:03
Edited by Pupbelly on Sunday 14th March 08:03
I had a clickmechanic check out for rust, and he said it aint too bad. I would like to thinkt he east kent guys would have picked up on this whilst on the ramp also.... still tempted with an underseal though tbh.
theog87 said:
Ok great thanks for this, great to know!
I had a clickmechanic check out for rust, and he said it aint too bad. I would like to thinkt he east kent guys would have picked up on this whilst on the ramp also.... still tempted with an underseal though tbh.
I would still be tempted to (if you can) get the car in on axle stands, take the rear wheels off and have a good squirt around with a hose pipe or pressure washer and an old paint brush and get right up into those turrets. Get all the dirt and baked on sh-te that accumulates up there and check the turret wall that faces the wheelarch. I had a clickmechanic check out for rust, and he said it aint too bad. I would like to thinkt he east kent guys would have picked up on this whilst on the ramp also.... still tempted with an underseal though tbh.
This is the one that will be crusty if there is a problem and this is the one that will mean lots of awkward welding!! A pig to get your head in to see, but once its all been cleaned off, shine a decent torch up there and have a poke about with your fingers and don't be shy to press on the metalwork. Better to find out now than after a £5k engine rebuild and detailing session!
Assuming it's all good up there go crazy with underseal etc. Make sure everything is prepped before undertaking the work otherwise you'll end up trapping water or creating water traps and you're back to square one if you intend to keep the car long term. Do some research for the best underseal everyone has their favourites and I'm sure some folk one here will be able to advise.
I would also be tempted to strip out the boot linings to gain access to the inside of the rear panels too and take a look at the rear arches & rear 1/4 from inside the boot. If there are any turret issues they will also show themselves in these areas too.
Just my input!
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