Wheel stuck on hub: help.
Discussion
curlie467 said:
Give over. Dozens of people have suggested this.
I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
As well as being more dangerous than a drunken elephant cracked off its tits on a Ducati powered unicycle, it'd probably be highly illegal to run a motor vehicle in such a manner. Such irresponsible advice could see the poor guy breaking rocks for a ten-stretch cos it's right up there with doing 34 in a 30 zone.I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
Rein in your devil may care attitude & quit playing fast and loose with the safety of road users children & kittens!
57Ford said:
curlie467 said:
Give over. Dozens of people have suggested this.
I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
As well as being more dangerous than a drunken elephant cracked off its tits on a Ducati powered unicycle, it'd probably be highly illegal to run a motor vehicle in such a manner. I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
Works every time for me. Havent killed any kittens / children / polar ice caps.
57Ford said:
curlie467 said:
Give over. Dozens of people have suggested this.
I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
As well as being more dangerous than a drunken elephant cracked off its tits on a Ducati powered unicycle, it'd probably be highly illegal to run a motor vehicle in such a manner. Such irresponsible advice could see the poor guy breaking rocks for a ten-stretch cos it's right up there with doing 34 in a 30 zone.I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
Rein in your devil may care attitude & quit playing fast and loose with the safety of road users children & kittens!
king read at all. This place really is full of holier than thou knobheads. FFS.It's surprising what won't shift a stuck wheel. A few years ago I had it happen and I tried kicking the wheel, getting a bit of wood on it from behind/underneathand using a hammer and all sorts of things. In the end I borrowed a rubber hammer and it came off immediately. My advice would be to pop the wheels back on, get a rubber hammer and then try again. I'm surprised it's stuck with copper ease on the surfaces though; I've never had the issue since I started doing that.
TooMany2cvs said:
p1esk said:
Is the transmission of acceleration and braking torque really dependent on friction between the wheel and hub? I'd have thought the wheel studs took care of that, with the nuts seating into conical areas of the wheel; unless the design details are different these days.
You're right.Think about the difference in friction between a shiny new wheel on a shiny new disk, versus a manky steel that's been hung under a boot floor as a spare onto a manky near-end-of-life disk.
Capt. Muppet!An all too common misconception.
The nuts/studs clamp the two faces (the wheel and the hub) together. What takes the load on the wheel is then friction between the two surfaces. The studs don't see any sheer (sideways) load, only tensile load. Studs would bend very easily if you asked them to take the load sideways.
It's the same principle as a clutch, but using bolts/studs instead of springs.
curlie467 said:
Can you fking read at all. This place really is full of holier than thou knobheads. FFS.
knobheads?? Yep.king read at all. This place really is full of holier than thou knobheads. FFS.WHOOOOOOOOOOOSH!
On a slightly different note guys, the word you're grasping for is 'shear'. Sheer could be used to describe a pair of knickers which some people may get in a twist
curlie467 said:
57Ford said:
curlie467 said:
Give over. Dozens of people have suggested this.
I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
As well as being more dangerous than a drunken elephant cracked off its tits on a Ducati powered unicycle, it'd probably be highly illegal to run a motor vehicle in such a manner. Such irresponsible advice could see the poor guy breaking rocks for a ten-stretch cos it's right up there with doing 34 in a 30 zone.I am not telling him to get on the motorway, just to turn the wheels a few revolutions and I suggested the road because I don't know if he has a drive.
Rein in your devil may care attitude & quit playing fast and loose with the safety of road users children & kittens!
king read at all. This place really is full of holier than thou knobheads. FFS.
Before I used coppergrease I use a block of wood and a big hammer or sledgehammer.
Now I coppergrease the hubs I don't have a need for the wood or hammer and I guess as I get to places I have enough friction and am still alive.
My favourite tyre place - Elite in Rainham have their apprentice go around each car with a tin of coppergrease and brush. If that's good enough for them that's better than internet hearsay.
Now I coppergrease the hubs I don't have a need for the wood or hammer and I guess as I get to places I have enough friction and am still alive.
My favourite tyre place - Elite in Rainham have their apprentice go around each car with a tin of coppergrease and brush. If that's good enough for them that's better than internet hearsay.
Sidewindow said:
Use one of the wheels you have removed and swing it, tyre tread first, into one side of the stubborn wheel's tyre, then the other, at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. Obviously make sure the care is secure on axle stands first and don't hit the bodywork! Not explained very well but it works every time, and you don't need to lie on the floor to do it! Otherwise, hit the bottom of the rear of the tyre (inside the wheel at 6 o'clock) repeatedly with a dead blow rubber mallet while you turn the wheel around. It should come off pretty easily.
Get the angle wrong on that and you'll debt the bloody bodywork. !I'd say jack up and loosen wheel nuts drop it fast
However you could take all 4 wheels down in the boot and pay a tyre fitter £10 to swop all round. Job done. (Or you could ask them to rebalance that niggling wheel £3,5 to do and they will get it off for you
Park it overnight in Liverpool, then go back next day with your winters. Leave space in the boot for the bricks. Come home and build a wall so next time you can lean against it while you kick hell out of your wheels to loosen them.
Or just run on 3 winters.
Or take it to a nearby tyre place.
Or get the wife to do it for you , you big wimp.
Or just run on 3 winters.
Or take it to a nearby tyre place.
Or get the wife to do it for you , you big wimp.
scorcher said:
anonymous said:
[redacted]
The wheel is off, but he's trapped under his car after trying to kick the wheel off whilst lying underneath it! Trying to start new thread on how to get out from under a car that's fallen off an axle stand whilst trying to remove wheel.I've had a few stuck wheels over the years and it was effective enough to kick the front side of the wheel at 90 - 180 deg spacing to free it - much safer than being under the car
The end of the day some of us have been in the situation where all the techniques, rubber hammers, blocks of wood, kicking it, dropping it off a jack to try and use the weight of the vehicle have all failed to work. The drive it a short distance has never ever failed. Note for the hard of understanding we aren't talking about hacking it down the high street between crowds of pedestrians swerving from side to side at twice the speed limit. Just one wheel at a time, a short distance at slow speed, with the side windows open. Stop as soon as you here it go, and you WILL hear it go, retighten the nuts and you're ok to go back to the drive, if you even got off the drive before it loosened.
CrutyRammers said:
TooMany2cvs said:
p1esk said:
Is the transmission of acceleration and braking torque really dependent on friction between the wheel and hub? I'd have thought the wheel studs took care of that, with the nuts seating into conical areas of the wheel; unless the design details are different these days.
You're right.Think about the difference in friction between a shiny new wheel on a shiny new disk, versus a manky steel that's been hung under a boot floor as a spare onto a manky near-end-of-life disk.
Capt. Muppet!An all too common misconception.
The nuts/studs clamp the two faces (the wheel and the hub) together. What takes the load on the wheel is then friction between the two surfaces. The studs don't see any sheer (sideways) load, only tensile load. Studs would bend very easily if you asked them to take the load sideways.
It's the same principle as a clutch, but using bolts/studs instead of springs.
I would have thought that high tensile bolts/studs of the diameters normally used would take a fair combination of shear
and tension, quite sufficient to carry the necessary torque.What happens if the bolts or nuts are not tightened sufficiently to ensure that the necessary friction is achieved? They will then have to carry the load, will they not?
Best wishes all,
Dave.
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff