Wheel off, caliper loosened, disc is now unattached?

Wheel off, caliper loosened, disc is now unattached?

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The Don of Croy

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

160 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
Just checking caliper operation on a binding font wheel (MR2 Roadster), having removed wheel and rotated caliper up to get at the pads (very stiff - corroded into place partially) the brake disc is now free to flop about...

Shouldn't the disc be secured with a couple of bolts?

My understanding is the studs that come through the disc and wheel are the main fastener, but I'd expected the disc to be located by it's own bolts...

I haven't had time to remove another wheel and compare - it's going home time - but come Monday at 08:15 I'll be back to compare.

In the meantime, any comments from the fount of knowledge that is PH? And thanks...

PositronicRay

27,043 posts

184 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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Usually secured by a countersunk screw. People leave them off though, not really crucial.

AdamIndy

1,661 posts

105 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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Some have a countersunk screw to hold the disc in place, usually cars that use wheel bolts rather than nuts. Otherwise, they are just held place by the wheel nuts. Having the screw doesn't really make any difference at all.

Taita

7,609 posts

204 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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If it is any use, Mazda6 come with some small screws to bind them to the hubs during factory assembly line.

They seize like fk so everyone drills them and then just puts the new discs or pads on using the wheel nuts. Including Mazda garages smile

melhookv12

958 posts

175 months

Saturday 12th March 2016
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Some have screws. Some are bolted from behind. Some have 'spire clips/washers '.

Either way your wheel nuts or bolts will hols it in place if correctly torqued.

RONV

538 posts

135 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
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Hi,this a job is for a garage to do your life and others depend on the braking effect of your car and any mistake you crash and damage your car and maybe someone else's you need the correct tools and equipment and knowledge to carry out the task. Ron.

vanordinaire

3,701 posts

163 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
quotequote all
I don't know about Toyota ones but lots of discs in modern cars (eg Fiesta) don't have any type of fixing, they are loose when you fit a new disc but soon stick in place with a build up of rust and road crud.

fooby

326 posts

101 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
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I've never seen a disk held on by anything other than rust.

n3il123

2,608 posts

214 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
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RONV said:
Hi,this a job is for a garage to do your life and others depend on the braking effect of your car and any mistake you crash and damage your car and maybe someone else's you need the correct tools and equipment and knowledge to carry out the task. Ron.
What?!

Ilovejapcrap

3,285 posts

113 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
quotequote all
Normally has one small countersunk screw holding disk it's only real purpose is to keep holes lined although does add a back up to disk staying put. Mind you if wheel falls it's going to slow down on that corner anyway.

bd to line up if disk flops about tho !

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

256 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
quotequote all
Ilovejapcrap said:
Normally has one small countersunk screw holding disk it's only real purpose is to keep holes lined
I think the primary purpose of these is to seize up and get mullered by someone with a badly fitting screwdriver bit prior to you buying the car.

RONV

538 posts

135 months

Sunday 13th March 2016
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n3il123 said:
What?!
Hi, you would not believe how many cars we have had to bring to the garage on the "spec" when so called DIY work has been carried out and wrecked the brakes, striped threads and rounded off nuts not having the correct tools it looks so easy in a workshop manual but if you work on a key board all day every thing looks easy.

powerstroke

10,283 posts

161 months

Monday 14th March 2016
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RONV said:
n3il123 said:
What?!
Hi, you would not believe how many cars we have had to bring to the garage on the "spec" when so called DIY work has been carried out and wrecked the brakes, striped threads and rounded off nuts not having the correct tools it looks so easy in a workshop manual but if you work on a key board all day every thing looks easy.
Plenty of dubious work from dealers too !! once a muppet gets on the snap on van and buys a electric impact gun its going to be cable ties not bolts holding your under tray on !! as one instance!!!

powerstroke

10,283 posts

161 months

Monday 14th March 2016
quotequote all
The Don of Croy said:
Just checking caliper operation on a binding font wheel (MR2 Roadster), having removed wheel and rotated caliper up to get at the pads (very stiff - corroded into place partially) the brake disc is now free to flop about...

Shouldn't the disc be secured with a couple of bolts?

My understanding is the studs that come through the disc and wheel are the main fastener, but I'd expected the disc to be located by it's own bolts...

I haven't had time to remove another wheel and compare - it's going home time - but come Monday at 08:15 I'll be back to compare.

In the meantime, any comments from the fount of knowledge that is PH? And thanks...

as others have said the screw just locates the disc its better to have one as if the diisc is loose dirt and rust that builds up unevenly under the disk so if it moves round on the hub if you remove the wheel then you can get brake judder due to the disc not sitting flat on the hub , best to clean every thing up and put a tiny smear of brake grease on the hub face when you reasemble along with the locating screw if it has one ( do not do it up really tight just so it contacts the disc grease it first )

bearman68

4,660 posts

133 months

Monday 14th March 2016
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I have a Roadster, and I'm pretty sure they are not fixed to the hub. They don't actually need to be, as others have said. With the calliper in place, they can't come off anyway.
One tip, if you brakes pads are at the end of their life, that can sometimes cause them to stick, as the exposed calliper tends to corrode, plus the long extension of the calliper can sometimes cause it to 'twist' a little, and be less willing to retract when you release the hydraulic pressure.
Cheers

Megaflow

9,438 posts

226 months

Monday 14th March 2016
quotequote all
powerstroke said:
RONV said:
n3il123 said:
What?!
Hi, you would not believe how many cars we have had to bring to the garage on the "spec" when so called DIY work has been carried out and wrecked the brakes, striped threads and rounded off nuts not having the correct tools it looks so easy in a workshop manual but if you work on a key board all day every thing looks easy.
Plenty of dubious work from dealers too !! once a muppet gets on the snap on van and buys a electric impact gun its going to be cable ties not bolts holding your under tray on !! as one instance!!!
Indeed. We bought an S2000 with a full Honda dealer history once. Brakes were a bite squealy so I took them off to clean up the sliding surfaces etc, when I took the caliper off the inboard anti squeal shim came it with, or so I thought.

When I took the pads off, the in board pad still had its anti squeal shim... Incompetent tossers had left the old one in the caliper when they changed the pads.

The Don of Croy

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

160 months

Monday 14th March 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies. Especially Ron (who needs to know this is the first time I've been behind the wheels, having had it serviced at a main dealer for the last four years, so somebody there has decided not to re-fit the grub screws for whatever reason).

The calipers are moving better now - after de-corroding - and I think I fitted it the right way round.

I'll be removing the other one this am to see how many grub screws I need to retrieve from the local dealer.

Edited to remove further sarcasm.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

162 months

Monday 14th March 2016
quotequote all
The 2 screws have nothing to do with securing the disc the wheel stud /bolts , if dirt gets between disc and hub the wheel is probably going to fall off!because the wheel is loose,they are probably needed on the production line to stop the disc falling off before calipers are fitted

Markbarry1977

4,076 posts

104 months

Saturday 2nd April 2016
quotequote all
RONV said:
Hi,this a job is for a garage to do your life and others depend on the braking effect of your car and any mistake you crash and damage your car and maybe someone else's you need the correct tools and equipment and knowledge to carry out the task. Ron.
I know this is a troll but:

bks! Anybody with an ounce of common sense and can operate a torque wrench could do this. Even a trained chimp could do it (Kwik-Fit seem to employ a lot of them), I would rather do it myself and know it's right than let some YTS youf who's probably still pissed/stoned from the night before do it as a so called professional.

The OPs question does seem to have been answered, hopefully they crack on and get the satisfaction of knowing they have fixed it themselves.

Ilovejapcrap

3,285 posts

113 months

Saturday 2nd April 2016
quotequote all
Mr2Mike said:
Ilovejapcrap said:
Normally has one small countersunk screw holding disk it's only real purpose is to keep holes lined
I think the primary purpose of these is to seize up and get mullered by someone with a badly fitting screwdriver bit prior to you buying the car.
True