How difficult to fit a bearing hub assembly?
Discussion
First post and I am really looking to find out how you think a 100% mechanical novice will fair.
OK, I can use tools etc but I have never really worked on a car other than to change spark plus, top up oil and remove wheels.
I have a 2013 F31 BMW 330D and one of the front bearings is just starting to rumble. I called around local garages as well as BMW and quotes range between £320 and £400.
I appear to just need a from hub assembly like attached and I will probably get the FAG product....if only I had a FAG part number as I have access to a FAG Franchised distributor (trade) but the exploded diagram makes this look fairly simple and perhaps just an hour or two labour from me.
Is it a foolish attempt by me or should I stump up for a mechanic. They are all quoting me circa £200 on just the part.
thanks for looking.
https://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/search-carparts?key...
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F31/USA/328dX-N4...
OK, I can use tools etc but I have never really worked on a car other than to change spark plus, top up oil and remove wheels.
I have a 2013 F31 BMW 330D and one of the front bearings is just starting to rumble. I called around local garages as well as BMW and quotes range between £320 and £400.
I appear to just need a from hub assembly like attached and I will probably get the FAG product....if only I had a FAG part number as I have access to a FAG Franchised distributor (trade) but the exploded diagram makes this look fairly simple and perhaps just an hour or two labour from me.
Is it a foolish attempt by me or should I stump up for a mechanic. They are all quoting me circa £200 on just the part.
thanks for looking.
https://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/search-carparts?key...
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F31/USA/328dX-N4...
far cheaper (and easier to fix) if the rumble is from the tyre rather than the bearing. look up "tyre castellation".
should it fail on a car made in 2013?
ive got an old car and its never needed a bearing in 8 years of ownership but ive had a few rumbling tyres that make a similar noise......
maybe the corner off the ground and do the feel test and rotate it too. holding the spring whilst spinning the wheel can transmit bearing noise too.
should it fail on a car made in 2013?
ive got an old car and its never needed a bearing in 8 years of ownership but ive had a few rumbling tyres that make a similar noise......
maybe the corner off the ground and do the feel test and rotate it too. holding the spring whilst spinning the wheel can transmit bearing noise too.
All depends on how competent you are, and you'll need some big tools. The basic process will be:
- up in the air
-wheel off
-brake disk off (may need calliper off - very tight indeed)
- undo the bolts behind the bearing holding it in - may require other dismantling if you can't get at them easily. May be corroded, may not be able to get a bit on them (are they ribes?), may need drilling out
-clatter off the old bearing with a copper hammer
-reverse the process with new bearing.
I did one on my Alfa 159 a few weeks ago - dismantling was severe, as the drive shaft was in the way (you won't have that at least), and I needed to drill one bolt out.
Not hard, but I wouldn't tackle it as a 'first job'.
Yes, swap tyres, it might be that (easy job....)
- up in the air
-wheel off
-brake disk off (may need calliper off - very tight indeed)
- undo the bolts behind the bearing holding it in - may require other dismantling if you can't get at them easily. May be corroded, may not be able to get a bit on them (are they ribes?), may need drilling out
-clatter off the old bearing with a copper hammer
-reverse the process with new bearing.
I did one on my Alfa 159 a few weeks ago - dismantling was severe, as the drive shaft was in the way (you won't have that at least), and I needed to drill one bolt out.
Not hard, but I wouldn't tackle it as a 'first job'.
Yes, swap tyres, it might be that (easy job....)
Is this just changing the bearing or the complete hub, if you just get the bearing then the old one needs pressing out and the new one pressing in.
I have (on different makes) used a big socket and battered it with a lump hammer to drive the old bearing out in the past, and used a vice to put the new one in. What I found most difficult was getting the inner part of the bearing off the drive shaft if it split in two taking it apart, needed a sharp chisel to push it down the shaft.
I have (on different makes) used a big socket and battered it with a lump hammer to drive the old bearing out in the past, and used a vice to put the new one in. What I found most difficult was getting the inner part of the bearing off the drive shaft if it split in two taking it apart, needed a sharp chisel to push it down the shaft.
Well, it looks like the FAG part number is 713 6495 40, so double-check that's correct and get a price from your contact.
It appears to be a bolt-on affair, so as others have said, there's nothing technically difficult about the job, and as long as you have the tools required and can work in a methodical manner, it shouldn't be unreasonable to do.
The brake caliper will be needing to come off to get the disc off and get at the hub, and you'll likely need a breaker bar for those fasteners, they can be pretty tight. And obviously you need a usable jack, axle stand(s), not-rubbish socket set and so on.
Do you have someone more experienced you can call on to do idiocy checks for you and help if you encounter any problems? Most of us have, at some point, found ourselves entering into a war of attrition with uncooperative car parts, and this can be more than a little annoying when you need the car fixed now to go to work in the morning.
If you do go ahead with the job, check if you're due for front pads/discs while you're at it, you'll be doing most of the work necessary to change them anyway, so now's the time if they'll be needed in a few months regardless.
It appears to be a bolt-on affair, so as others have said, there's nothing technically difficult about the job, and as long as you have the tools required and can work in a methodical manner, it shouldn't be unreasonable to do.
The brake caliper will be needing to come off to get the disc off and get at the hub, and you'll likely need a breaker bar for those fasteners, they can be pretty tight. And obviously you need a usable jack, axle stand(s), not-rubbish socket set and so on.
Do you have someone more experienced you can call on to do idiocy checks for you and help if you encounter any problems? Most of us have, at some point, found ourselves entering into a war of attrition with uncooperative car parts, and this can be more than a little annoying when you need the car fixed now to go to work in the morning.
If you do go ahead with the job, check if you're due for front pads/discs while you're at it, you'll be doing most of the work necessary to change them anyway, so now's the time if they'll be needed in a few months regardless.
ToothbrushMan said:
far cheaper (and easier to fix) if the rumble is from the tyre rather than the bearing. look up "tyre castellation".
should it fail on a car made in 2013?
ive got an old car and its never needed a bearing in 8 years of ownership but ive had a few rumbling tyres that make a similar noise......
maybe the corner off the ground and do the feel test and rotate it too. holding the spring whilst spinning the wheel can transmit bearing noise too.
I was annoyed as I have only recently had the 36 month end of warranty check but I am sure it is a bearing. It is a oscillating noise more noticed around 20-25mph and when I questioned with a local BMW specialist if this is normal on a 2013 with 40k miles, he did say that with these its much more common that you would think. I have had other cars over 60-150k miles and never had a failed bearing and this is my first early one fail.should it fail on a car made in 2013?
ive got an old car and its never needed a bearing in 8 years of ownership but ive had a few rumbling tyres that make a similar noise......
maybe the corner off the ground and do the feel test and rotate it too. holding the spring whilst spinning the wheel can transmit bearing noise too.
InitialDave said:
Well, it looks like the FAG part number is 713 6495 40, so double-check that's correct and get a price from your contact.
It appears to be a bolt-on affair, so as others have said, there's nothing technically difficult about the job, and as long as you have the tools required and can work in a methodical manner, it shouldn't be unreasonable to do.
The brake caliper will be needing to come off to get the disc off and get at the hub, and you'll likely need a breaker bar for those fasteners, they can be pretty tight. And obviously you need a usable jack, axle stand(s), not-rubbish socket set and so on.
Do you have someone more experienced you can call on to do idiocy checks for you and help if you encounter any problems? Most of us have, at some point, found ourselves entering into a war of attrition with uncooperative car parts, and this can be more than a little annoying when you need the car fixed now to go to work in the morning.
If you do go ahead with the job, check if you're due for front pads/discs while you're at it, you'll be doing most of the work necessary to change them anyway, so now's the time if they'll be needed in a few months regardless.
My dad has axle stands, a decent trolley jack and born in the 1950's, he is of the generation that always worked on cars...he still does. As part of my warranty check and MOT late last year, BMW snapped my M-Sport callipers on all 4 corners so they are newly replaced and shouldn't be a sod to remove.It appears to be a bolt-on affair, so as others have said, there's nothing technically difficult about the job, and as long as you have the tools required and can work in a methodical manner, it shouldn't be unreasonable to do.
The brake caliper will be needing to come off to get the disc off and get at the hub, and you'll likely need a breaker bar for those fasteners, they can be pretty tight. And obviously you need a usable jack, axle stand(s), not-rubbish socket set and so on.
Do you have someone more experienced you can call on to do idiocy checks for you and help if you encounter any problems? Most of us have, at some point, found ourselves entering into a war of attrition with uncooperative car parts, and this can be more than a little annoying when you need the car fixed now to go to work in the morning.
If you do go ahead with the job, check if you're due for front pads/discs while you're at it, you'll be doing most of the work necessary to change them anyway, so now's the time if they'll be needed in a few months regardless.
How does one snap calipers?
Also, will be a pretty easy job just make sure you have a torque wrench.
Hammer the old bearing assembly off. It will probably be stuck but not too bad on a 13 plate I'd imagine. You won't need to worry about damaging it if you are replacing the full assembly!
Also, will be a pretty easy job just make sure you have a torque wrench.
Hammer the old bearing assembly off. It will probably be stuck but not too bad on a 13 plate I'd imagine. You won't need to worry about damaging it if you are replacing the full assembly!
Josho said:
How does one snap calipers?
Also, will be a pretty easy job just make sure you have a torque wrench.
Hammer the old bearing assembly off. It will probably be stuck but not too bad on a 13 plate I'd imagine. You won't need to worry about damaging it if you are replacing the full assembly!
Not long move down from NE Scotland where I purchased the car from. So it would have seen a lot of wet, grit and salt. Also, will be a pretty easy job just make sure you have a torque wrench.
Hammer the old bearing assembly off. It will probably be stuck but not too bad on a 13 plate I'd imagine. You won't need to worry about damaging it if you are replacing the full assembly!
When I first moved up I had a 7yr old ford and its first service the mechanic said...you haven't been up here long...no said...how do you know. Under the car he said...its clean....not had good salt exposure yet!
And how did BMW snap them....no idea...not mechanical but as it was all replaced at BMW's cost and I had a nice 5 series to run about in for 10 days while they struggled to get parts in from a german factory....I was happy enough
That would be a really early bearing fail, would be maybe asking Bmw to see if any goodwill as 4 year old (might be 3 and a 1 month) shouldnt fail unless you do insane mileage.
However try jack car up
Spin wheel - Does it grumble?
Grab the wheel and:
Pull top/push bottom
Push top/pull bottom
Push left/pull right
Pull left/push right
Is there any play in it?
However try jack car up
Spin wheel - Does it grumble?
Grab the wheel and:
Pull top/push bottom
Push top/pull bottom
Push left/pull right
Pull left/push right
Is there any play in it?
Slow said:
That would be a really early bearing fail, would be maybe asking Bmw to see if any goodwill as 4 year old (might be 3 and a 1 month) shouldnt fail unless you do insane mileage.
However try jack car up
Spin wheel - Does it grumble?
Grab the wheel and:
Pull top/push bottom
Push top/pull bottom
Push left/pull right
Pull left/push right
Is there any play in it?
Tried that a week last sunday and found nothing. I was the only one who noticed the noise...as only I know when the soft 6 isn't purring properly but its starting to present itself more now. So maybe in a week or 2 I will get it up again. But yes, 40k and a 63 plate does still seem early despite being told this car can experience earlier failures compared to other cars...worth checking out.However try jack car up
Spin wheel - Does it grumble?
Grab the wheel and:
Pull top/push bottom
Push top/pull bottom
Push left/pull right
Pull left/push right
Is there any play in it?
Changing a wheel bearing is fairly easy, but there are some points that need to be watched out for. Knocking out the old races is relatively straightforward, if the inside of the races has a shoulder, or a slot which allows a drift to be used to drive the old races out of the hub. You have to be careful not to score or dent the race flange, as even the tiniest of defects can stop the new races from being pressed home. The new race can be tapped home using a drift (suitable diameter socket for example) taking care to ensure they remain in alignment with the hub flanges. If I doubt take the hubs and races to a garage, and ask them to press in the new races with a hydraulic press.
When re assembling the hub bearing it is important not to overtighten the locking nut. Spin the hub whilst slowly tightening the nut until you can just feel the bearing start to bind, then slacken the locknut back off, just enough to allow the hub to spin freely, then set the splitpin, castellated hub locking cover. Make sure both the hub races, and bearings are completely covered in grease before assembly.
When re assembling the hub bearing it is important not to overtighten the locking nut. Spin the hub whilst slowly tightening the nut until you can just feel the bearing start to bind, then slacken the locknut back off, just enough to allow the hub to spin freely, then set the splitpin, castellated hub locking cover. Make sure both the hub races, and bearings are completely covered in grease before assembly.
Pan Pan Pan said:
Changing a wheel bearing is fairly easy, but there are some points that need to be watched out for. Knocking out the old races is relatively straightforward, if the inside of the races has a shoulder, or a slot which allows a drift to be used to drive the old races out of the hub. You have to be careful not to score or dent the race flange, as even the tiniest of defects can stop the new races from being pressed home. The new race can be tapped home using a drift (suitable diameter socket for example) taking care to ensure they remain in alignment with the hub flanges. If I doubt take the hubs and races to a garage, and ask them to press in the new races with a hydraulic press.
When re assembling the hub bearing it is important not to overtighten the locking nut. Spin the hub whilst slowly tightening the nut until you can just feel the bearing start to bind, then slacken the locknut back off, just enough to allow the hub to spin freely, then set the splitpin, castellated hub locking cover. Make sure both the hub races, and bearings are completely covered in grease before assembly.
I think you can disregard all of this on the OP's carWhen re assembling the hub bearing it is important not to overtighten the locking nut. Spin the hub whilst slowly tightening the nut until you can just feel the bearing start to bind, then slacken the locknut back off, just enough to allow the hub to spin freely, then set the splitpin, castellated hub locking cover. Make sure both the hub races, and bearings are completely covered in grease before assembly.
ETA: Sorry, that sounded a bit pompous - PPP's advice is spot-on regarding taper roller bearings
Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 31st January 22:02
rxe said:
All depends on how competent you are, and you'll need some big tools. The basic process will be:
- up in the air
-wheel off
-brake disk off (may need calliper off - very tight indeed)
- undo the bolts behind the bearing holding it in - may require other dismantling if you can't get at them easily. May be corroded, may not be able to get a bit on them (are they ribes?), may need drilling out
-clatter off the old bearing with a copper hammer
-reverse the process with new bearing.
I did one on my Alfa 159 a few weeks ago - dismantling was severe, as the drive shaft was in the way (you won't have that at least), and I needed to drill one bolt out.
Not hard, but I wouldn't tackle it as a 'first job'.
Yes, swap tyres, it might be that (easy job....)
I had a wheel bearing changed on my 159 as I didn't fancy doing it myself. Told by the garage that the bolts needed heating up to break the lockseal, they were certainly very tight when I tried before hand.- up in the air
-wheel off
-brake disk off (may need calliper off - very tight indeed)
- undo the bolts behind the bearing holding it in - may require other dismantling if you can't get at them easily. May be corroded, may not be able to get a bit on them (are they ribes?), may need drilling out
-clatter off the old bearing with a copper hammer
-reverse the process with new bearing.
I did one on my Alfa 159 a few weeks ago - dismantling was severe, as the drive shaft was in the way (you won't have that at least), and I needed to drill one bolt out.
Not hard, but I wouldn't tackle it as a 'first job'.
Yes, swap tyres, it might be that (easy job....)
When I priced it up I wouldn't have actually saved much doing it myself, so I didn't think it was worth the time/effort/risk.
I do do work on cars but chose which jobs to do.
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff