Sensor wire fix

[Mr Whippy]

At some point before my ownership, someone has butchered my MAF sensor loom.




I think the wire is about 22awg range.

A good crimp seems the best bet.

Crimpers are totally new to me. There seem to be a whole boat load of variations.

Will these work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/451-2-U-shaped-terminal...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B077RVK5JK

Wrapping all other cuts/insulation splits with 3:1 glue filled shrink wrap.


My main reservation with crimpers is they often have an asymmetric crimp for the core and insulation at the back, and just core at the end.

I’m weary of getting crimpers that won’t work with the crimps I’m choosing.



I’ve already considered solders, and uninsulated cylinder butt crimps etc, but it seems the type of crimp the terminal pins use at the ends is also best for mid-way joints... especially where free wire for soldering is at a premium.


Cheers for any advice!

Dave

[DuraAce]

Solder and seal with heatshrink.
Add an inch of new wire if necessary.

[Mr Whippy]

It’s just a short exposed run and not much room. Plus those other splits at each side of the join.

I could solder and have the gear.

My main issue is ~ 5mm of lost wire already, and needing another 5-10mm to tidy each end and then 10mm for overlap for a solder.
That runs into those other splits... it’ll need two solders and a new run... with one solder very near the plug... worried a bit on heat.


How do I find suitable replacement wire?

Cut off a bit and measure/count cores etc?


My initial thought was a new ‘end’ from a good loom and just re-solder each wire with plenty of space to go at and equal length wires.

Edited by Mr Whippy on Thursday 17th January 12:29

[GreenV8S]

IMO all those wires are compromised and will be corroding either side of the cuts. If that was me I'd dismantle the plug and back the connectors out, then replace the last few inches of wire far enough back to be well clear of the last break and into sound wire.

Soldering old wire with broken insulation is going to be problematic due to corrosion and wicking, and I wouldn't be happy soldering that close to the connector even if the wire was new..

[PositronicRay]

You could dremmel open the connector, replace wires then stick connector back together with epoxy glue.

[Mr Whippy]

I’d done a quick fix with twisted cable ends and tape:

To a better fix:





But I think it needs taking back to good wire on the three tampered wires...
All wires have one strand cut, and the one with several breaks has multiple strands cut.
It really is a mess.


However it’s so tight at each end (one end going under manifold, other almost onto pins in plug) I’d need 6 joins total, and soldering in some tight spots.


I think I’m best finding a good loom end from a breaker and just cutting staggered across the required 3 wires to have just three joins in a nice to access area.


I think crimps are easier. Why do people prefer solder?
Maybe a pro solderer could do a good job but I think I’ll do a better crimp with good equipment (like the end plug crimps) than I will solder, especially leaning over into a tight spot in an engine bay.

[SlimJim16v]

I think those heat shrink crimps for joining 2 wires will work well.

[GreenV8S]

Mr Whippy said:

I think crimps are easier. Why do people prefer solder?

Most people prefer crimped connections to solder for long term durability, but crimping needs the right tools and technique.

Those terminals look like a common design and you can probably pick up new ones for a few pence. New terminals and a few short pieces of wire to make up your own pigtail crimped and sealed onto the original loom would imo be the best approach.

Presumably somebody chopped into the insulation on the old wires to connect test leads. What a butcher.

[Mr Whippy]

As per my original post, I assume I can just use that style crimper and crimps for joins, onto appropriate wire, with the correct end pins crimped on.

All easy to do.

Just knowing what to ask for haha... I’ve no idea how to get the right bits.

Most resellers appear to be clueless too, just reselling stuff from China.

Oh for a decent shop you could just go to with bits in hand eh!

[GreenV8S]

Those crimp joints look tiny - are they big enough for those wires? They might be OK but there isn't much to them. Have a look at Seloky (?) brand for alternatives. I prefer uninsulated terminals with separate sealed heatshrink as you're describing, but there also also commonly available crimp butt splice connectors with the heatshrink sleeve included. That type need a different type of crimper. The better quality crimpers will have removable jaws so you can do several types with the one tool.

[gamefreaks]

I’m dealing with a similar issue on my car.

Annoyingly, the break in the wire is too close to the connector to be able to bare enough wire to join it and I can’t seem to get the wires out of the plug without damaging it.

I found a section of loom with the correct connector on eBay so when it turns up I’ll just chop the plug off at a convenient point and splice the new one in.

[Mr Whippy]

GreenV8S said:

Those crimp joints look tiny - are they big enough for those wires? They might be OK but there isn't much to them. Have a look at Seloky (?) brand for alternatives. I prefer uninsulated terminals with separate sealed heatshrink as you're describing, but there also also commonly available crimp butt splice connectors with the heatshrink sleeve included. That type need a different type of crimper. The better quality crimpers will have removable jaws so you can do several types with the one tool.

This is it, finding good quality compatible bits, but without spending £££ on crimpers.

I’ve seen CK do a set for £80 ish with 5 jaw sets but if they’re the jaws I need is another thing.
There seems to be a blend of AWG, mm, and mm2 for wire size, then crimps come in another scaling altogether again.

For example I’ve been looking just for some ratchet crimpers to do cylinder uninsulated butt joins without luck. Even the 5 jaw combo ones are missing these basic crimpers.


I might have to make a special visit to a decent sized Maplin if they still exist and sell such stuff!