New rotors wobble inside pad bracket
Discussion
E-bmw said:
Piersman2 said:
Use some large(r) bolts as spacers pushed down loose over the studs and tighten up the brake disc using the wheel nuts to press against the large bolt spacers. I hope that makes sense.
It doesn't unless you meant nuts rather then bolts.
Use something(s) as a spacer to replicate the wheel being there and tighten up the wheel nuts (not 'bolts'
) to press the disk into place as it would be with the wheel in situ. 
Ok so I gave the hub a good clean with this...
I am not at the stage where the hub is entirely smooth but it is definitely better than it was. The pictures make it look worse than it is. its maybe raised by 1mm in some areas still slightly.
After a good go over with that wire brush attachment, the rotor no longer rubs however it still has a slight wobble and a knocking sound, see this video...
https://youtu.be/m9U4HMsBYuw
Should I go back over it with the dremel maybe to make the hub completely smooth?
Should I be concerned about the knocking? Yes I checked nothing else is rubbing on it
I am not at the stage where the hub is entirely smooth but it is definitely better than it was. The pictures make it look worse than it is. its maybe raised by 1mm in some areas still slightly.
After a good go over with that wire brush attachment, the rotor no longer rubs however it still has a slight wobble and a knocking sound, see this video...
https://youtu.be/m9U4HMsBYuw
Should I go back over it with the dremel maybe to make the hub completely smooth?
Should I be concerned about the knocking? Yes I checked nothing else is rubbing on it
Sh1n0b1 said:
OK Cheers guys will give that a try tomorrow.
Just waiting for a piston rewind tool to arrive. Bloody annoying not being able to just go down the shop!
Infers that you have not yet pushed the pistons back into the calipers. The amount of wear on those original pads was 'quite considerable' so there will be a lot of spare brake fluid. If you have a brake hose clamp or something similar, use that to close off the caliper hose feed. Open the bleed nipple , then as you retract the pistons the old fluid exits the bleed nipple instead of being pushed back to your master cylinder. Depending on the colour and state of the old fluid, you may decide that it might be a good time to replenish the system with new fluid.Just waiting for a piston rewind tool to arrive. Bloody annoying not being able to just go down the shop!
Spurry said:
Infers that you have not yet pushed the pistons back into the calipers. The amount of wear on those original pads was 'quite considerable' so there will be a lot of spare brake fluid. If you have a brake hose clamp or something similar, use that to close off the caliper hose feed. Open the bleed nipple , then as you retract the pistons the old fluid exits the bleed nipple instead of being pushed back to your master cylinder. Depending on the colour and state of the old fluid, you may decide that it might be a good time to replenish the system with new fluid.
You should not have any "spare brake fluid" Not unless somebody has topped up the resivour with very worn pads
That being said no ha in pushing the fluid out of s the caliper as that tend to be the most contained fluid in the system
Chris32345 said:
You should not have any "spare brake fluid"
Not unless somebody has topped up the resivour with very worn pads
That being said no ha in pushing the fluid out of s the caliper as that tend to be the most contained fluid in the system
This is one of the problems with Repairs by Forum. Not unless somebody has topped up the resivour with very worn pads
That being said no ha in pushing the fluid out of s the caliper as that tend to be the most contained fluid in the system
Without examining the vehicle, it is extremely difficult to state with any certainty *exactly* what may or may not have occurred with any routine maintenance.
However, with the amount of wear shown on those pads, there should have been some noticeable top-up required of the master cylinder.
Of course, whether this actually happened, we can only guess.
Sh1n0b1 said:
Ok so I gave the hub a good clean with this...
I am not at the stage where the hub is entirely smooth but it is definitely better than it was. The pictures make it look worse than it is. its maybe raised by 1mm in some areas still slightly.
After a good go over with that wire brush attachment, the rotor no longer rubs however it still has a slight wobble and a knocking sound, see this video...
https://youtu.be/m9U4HMsBYuw
Should I go back over it with the dremel maybe to make the hub completely smooth?
Should I be concerned about the knocking? Yes I checked nothing else is rubbing on it
OP, as you are finding dicking around with that wire wheel is NOT going to flatten off your hub face, all you're doing is making the surface of the corroded lumps nice and shiny! I am not at the stage where the hub is entirely smooth but it is definitely better than it was. The pictures make it look worse than it is. its maybe raised by 1mm in some areas still slightly.
After a good go over with that wire brush attachment, the rotor no longer rubs however it still has a slight wobble and a knocking sound, see this video...
https://youtu.be/m9U4HMsBYuw
Should I go back over it with the dremel maybe to make the hub completely smooth?
Should I be concerned about the knocking? Yes I checked nothing else is rubbing on it
. Those wire wheels do not and will not remove corroded on lumps of metal, as you're finding. Get those lumps of corrosion removed down at least flush so you have a completely flat surface. Rather than the wire wheel, and assuming you can't chip the corrosion off and don't have an angle grinder, use something like this in your drill to properly grind off the excess metal/rusty lumps. You'd be better grinding of slightly too much in those small areas than leaving them still standing proud. You need something that's really gonna abrasively remove/grind the lumps off, not a wire wheel to give them a tickle and a polish!
Edited by Piersman2 on Saturday 4th April 01:07
Use a flat file to knock off the small layer of crusty corrosion , then dress the hub flange with the abrasive drill tools ,a thin layer of grease and the (correct ?) disc will lie flat with minimal runout.
P.S. Am I the only one on here who is slightly concerned about the OP 's total lack of knowledge/experience of braking systems ?
P.S. Am I the only one on here who is slightly concerned about the OP 's total lack of knowledge/experience of braking systems ?
Auntieroll said:
Use a flat file to knock off the small layer of crusty corrosion , then dress the hub flange with the abrasive drill tools ,a thin layer of grease and the (correct ?) disc will lie flat with minimal runout.
P.S. Am I the only one on here who is slightly concerned about the OP 's total lack of knowledge/experience of braking systems ?
No, no you're not! P.S. Am I the only one on here who is slightly concerned about the OP 's total lack of knowledge/experience of braking systems ?
ETA: But we all had to learn at some time or other so trying to help out. Not sure he's listening too well though!
Piersman2 said:
Auntieroll said:
Use a flat file to knock off the small layer of crusty corrosion , then dress the hub flange with the abrasive drill tools ,a thin layer of grease and the (correct ?) disc will lie flat with minimal runout.
P.S. Am I the only one on here who is slightly concerned about the OP 's total lack of knowledge/experience of braking systems ?
No, no you're not! P.S. Am I the only one on here who is slightly concerned about the OP 's total lack of knowledge/experience of braking systems ?
ETA: But we all had to learn at some time or other so trying to help out. Not sure he's listening too well though!
progress today... Not sure it could get any smoother, grinded down, sanded, wet and dry, coated etc
Full set restored best I could...
My only concern... Should I be worried about the state of this seal which I didn't mask off properly? It still sits tight and snug and moves ok, no tears etc and I used brake fluid to lube the inside slightly.... Would the paint corrode the rubber over time?
Finally putting it all back on tomorrow so will report back and see how it goes!
Edited by Sh1n0b1 on Saturday 4th April 20:32
The painted mounting face on the flange looks lovely...Unfortunately that’s not what you want, so now you need to sand it all back to bare metal. There are reasons that it’s not painted in the first place. That paint will/could melt when the brakes get hot, and could potentially make your wheel come loose in the very worst case.
On the plus side, the paint on the calliper seal should be fine, I wouldn’t worry too much about that.
On the plus side, the paint on the calliper seal should be fine, I wouldn’t worry too much about that.
OP - have you got a torque wrench? Can I kindly suggest that you follow the forum guidance to get this driveable, and then get it into a local garage asap and ask them to them to check your work?
It's great that you want to tackle jobs like this, most of us learnt doing exactly this with a dad or an older mate who knew what the various posters are advising you. It's just impossible to check everything is 'right' via a forum and brakes are crucial.
Dont be disheartened, it's a straightforward and satisfying job when you've got the hang of it...
It's great that you want to tackle jobs like this, most of us learnt doing exactly this with a dad or an older mate who knew what the various posters are advising you. It's just impossible to check everything is 'right' via a forum and brakes are crucial.
Dont be disheartened, it's a straightforward and satisfying job when you've got the hang of it...
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