Peugeot 108 dripping sump plug after oil change

[Brian Stann]

Hi,

I've recently replaced the oil and filter on my Peugeot 108 but the sump plug is dripping oil slightly.

I used a new M16 copper crush washer on the plug so I was expecting it to be fine.

Has anyone got any suggestions? I haven't used a torque wrench on the sump plug as I couldn't find the setting to use. I'm just reluctant to go too tight and break something.

Thanks

[paintman]

Brian Stann said:

Hi,

I've recently replaced the oil and filter on my Peugeot 108 but the sump plug is dripping oil slightly.

I used a new M16 copper crush washer on the plug so I was expecting it to be fine.

Has anyone got any suggestions? I haven't used a torque wrench on the sump plug as I couldn't find the setting to use. I'm just reluctant to go too tight and break something.

Thanks

Did the new washer look like the old one?
A quick google suggests these use a crush washer.
Possibly your new washer is too hard & it might be worth taking it off & annealing it which will soften it & hopefully do the job.

[Chris32345]

More cars should use a tapered sump plug
No messing about with crush washers that have a habit of leaking

[E-bmw]

Could easily be a bit of cr@p behind the washer, could be cross threaded.

Unfortunately whatever the cause is it is likely to sort it out (unless it is physically loose) it will need to be removed, which will obviously lose varying amounts of oil depending how good/quick you are.

[VanDiesel99]

I've done up lots of sump plugs with Crush Washers and always done them to what I consider 'sensibly tight', not 'Strong-Armed'

Where torque settings are available for fixings, its often the case that its not nearly as tight as you might've expected.

Clearly one of the issues others have suggested before me is the case.

If it was mine, I'd probably drain it into a vessel I'd been careful to ensure was properly clean, remove it, check it, refit it and refill with the same oil

....others might not agree with that last bit mind

[Oilchange]

Someone might have done the brass sump plug up into the alloy sump too tight, thus stripping the thread.
When this was done on my old Alfa, I ended up draining the oil, cleaning around the sump and sticking the plug back in with black goo, then refilling.
Worked a treat as long as I remembered to use my pela pump for future oil changes, which was always.

[Brian Stann]

The new crush washer was the same as the old one. Its definitely not cross threaded as it screwed in smoothly by hand until the crush washer was being compressed.

I tried nipping it up a little more and its reduced the drip rate a little.

I've got a spare washer so I will probably just drop the oil again and try another washer.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

[Sandy59]

paintman said:

Did the new washer look like the old one?
A quick google suggests these use a crush washer.
Possibly your new washer is too hard & it might be worth taking it off & annealing it which will soften it & hopefully do the job.

I would try annealing as suggested, easy with a gas cooker, just carefully heat until cherry red then drop into a container of cold water.

[E-bmw]

Sandy59 said:

paintman said:

Did the new washer look like the old one?
A quick google suggests these use a crush washer.
Possibly your new washer is too hard & it might be worth taking it off & annealing it which will soften it & hopefully do the job.

I would try annealing as suggested, easy with a gas cooker, just carefully heat until cherry red then drop into a container of cold water.

That is actually the opposite of annealing & will harden it.

Heat up to 300/600 (depending whether it is pure or an alloy of copper) deg c & allow to cool slowly to anneal it.

[paintman]

Heating steel/ferrous metals & quenching in water or oil will harden them. These need to be allowed to air cool to soften.

Heating copper (and some other metals incl brass cartridge cases) - excluding copper alloys - & quenching in water doesn't harden it.



ETA Yes, I know brass is a copper/zinc alloy but cartridge cases anneal & quench absolutely fine.
I've done this with .303 & .308 Win cases many hundreds of times.
Best done by sitting them base down in a tray of water so only neck & shoulder are heated then pushing them over to quench. You could leave them to air cool but it won't achieve anything & not when you're doing a lot!
If you don't anneal they will work harden with firing & resizing & the necks or shoulders will split after only a small number of fire/reload cycles.
Plenty more info on reloading forums if anyone's interested.

Edited by paintman on Tuesday 7th April 13:37

[Lotobear]

I've got into the habit of cleaning the sump plug and boss and then refitting with a smear of Permatex nr 3 or Wellseal on the threads - never had any drips since.

[mk08]

Hi All
I have got Peugeot 108 (2014). I wanted to do the oil & filter change myself. When I went under the car, I found out I would need a Hex/Allen key for the sump drain nut.
Can someone advise on what size Hex would I need?

Thanks in Advance

[NotGoingOut]

mk08 said:

Hi All
I have got Peugeot 108 (2014). I wanted to do the oil & filter change myself. When I went under the car, I found out I would need a Hex/Allen key for the sump drain nut.
Can someone advise on what size Hex would I need?

Thanks in Advance

I don't know the size myself but if you measure across the flats with a ruler that is the size key/bit you need.

If you have a set of drill bits then find one where the base is a snug fit and that will be the size you need.

[mk08]

NotGoingOut said:

mk08 said:

Hi All
I have got Peugeot 108 (2014). I wanted to do the oil & filter change myself. When I went under the car, I found out I would need a Hex/Allen key for the sump drain nut.
Can someone advise on what size Hex would I need?

Thanks in Advance

I don't know the size myself but if you measure across the flats with a ruler that is the size key/bit you need.

If you have a set of drill bits then find one where the base is a snug fit and that will be the size you need.

I don't have any tools etc lol. The only thing I might have done on car is changed a head light lol. I am a diy newbie.
Can you or anyone recommend a cheap tool set (that comes with loads of bits) that could be handy with working on car?

[finishing touch]

Six turns, with the thread, of PTFE plumbers tape on the plug and refit.



Paul G

[P2KKA]

Its been a good month since Ive been at work so Im a little rusty on parts.


If you have the 1.2 108 the sump is the same /similar to the other 1.2s in the Peugeot range and the crush washer is a folded brass looking one. And im pretty sure this is the one with a hex sump plug.

Peugeot part number 031338 for the washer

[wsn03]

mk08 said:

I don't have any tools etc lol. The only thing I might have done on car is changed a head light lol. I am a diy newbie.
Can you or anyone recommend a cheap tool set (that comes with loads of bits) that could be handy with working on car?

Don't buy cheap tools.
Best way to get a set is ebay - lots of people sell their entire collection because retired, passed away etc, or just used for a specific project. Very cheap compared to new. Make sure you get a toolbox

[finishing touch]

I'm gonna sell all my tools when I've passed away.

[mk08]

P2KKA said:

Its been a good month since Ive been at work so Im a little rusty on parts.


If you have the 1.2 108 the sump is the same /similar to the other 1.2s in the Peugeot range and the crush washer is a folded brass looking one. And im pretty sure this is the one with a hex sump plug.
Peugeot part number 031338 for the washer

I have 1.2 108. What size Hex key do i need to buy for my sump plug.

[mk08]

wsn03 said:

Don't buy cheap tools.
Best way to get a set is ebay - lots of people sell their entire collection because retired, passed away etc, or just used for a specific project. Very cheap compared to new. Make sure you get a toolbox

Will do thank you. How many tools do i need?