MIG Welder - I want one
Discussion
smiffy555 said:
Thank you for your reply. What sort of budget should I be looking at.
I want to weld up and fabricate some barn door frames etc. Also have some farm equipment that needs repairing. Have done quite a bit of welding in my farming days but have never purchased one with my own money. A pointer in the right direction would be appreciated.
For these jobs a stick welder will do them better than a MIG and be much cheaper; unless you're planning on trying car repairs or other sheet metalwork a MIG is a bit over the top and the cheaper low power hobby sets will struggle to get decent penetration on metal thicker than 3-4mm.I want to weld up and fabricate some barn door frames etc. Also have some farm equipment that needs repairing. Have done quite a bit of welding in my farming days but have never purchased one with my own money. A pointer in the right direction would be appreciated.
frodo_monkey said:
Jaz2000 said:
AS mentioned by others a decent set with a euro torch and rent a decent size gas bottle instead of the crappy little disposable bottles from hobbyweld or similar.
The teeny bottles come from Halfords or similar - Hobbyweld do proper sized bottles.Not the cheapest welders but Im very happy with my Oxford set having owned it for about 7 years
finishing touch said:
Don't want to get involved in any arguments so I will comment on things that haven't been covered on the thread so far.
I have a Migatronic 180 (180 amps) running 0.6 wire and 5% argon/ CO2 plugged into a 13amp socket, connected to a MCB B32 breaker in my consumer unit.
I make a lot of thin ducting so its handy to leave this set for thin stuff.
I also have a Lincoln 210 (180 amps) running 0.8 wire and 15% argon/CO2 which copes with the 3 to 8mm jobs. This also will go down to car bodywork.
This also runs from the same sockets in the workshop. It's a pain to keep swopping 15kg reels of wire so both welders get used as welding is my living.
Both have a good range of settings (10) and this is important. Welders with H/L-1/2 are just toys.
Gas is also adds to the equation as for example by using neat CO2 (pub gas) the heat is increased for thick plate. I have welded teeth to digger buckets by depositing 3 run fillets using CO2.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
This man knows his stuff and is a class welder, great info PaulI have a Migatronic 180 (180 amps) running 0.6 wire and 5% argon/ CO2 plugged into a 13amp socket, connected to a MCB B32 breaker in my consumer unit.
I make a lot of thin ducting so its handy to leave this set for thin stuff.
I also have a Lincoln 210 (180 amps) running 0.8 wire and 15% argon/CO2 which copes with the 3 to 8mm jobs. This also will go down to car bodywork.
This also runs from the same sockets in the workshop. It's a pain to keep swopping 15kg reels of wire so both welders get used as welding is my living.
Both have a good range of settings (10) and this is important. Welders with H/L-1/2 are just toys.
Gas is also adds to the equation as for example by using neat CO2 (pub gas) the heat is increased for thick plate. I have welded teeth to digger buckets by depositing 3 run fillets using CO2.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
PaulKemp said:
finishing touch said:
Don't want to get involved in any arguments so I will comment on things that haven't been covered on the thread so far.
I have a Migatronic 180 (180 amps) running 0.6 wire and 5% argon/ CO2 plugged into a 13amp socket, connected to a MCB B32 breaker in my consumer unit.
I make a lot of thin ducting so its handy to leave this set for thin stuff.
I also have a Lincoln 210 (180 amps) running 0.8 wire and 15% argon/CO2 which copes with the 3 to 8mm jobs. This also will go down to car bodywork.
This also runs from the same sockets in the workshop. It's a pain to keep swopping 15kg reels of wire so both welders get used as welding is my living.
Both have a good range of settings (10) and this is important. Welders with H/L-1/2 are just toys.
Gas also adds to the equation as for example by using neat CO2 (pub gas) the heat is increased for thick plate. I have welded teeth to digger buckets by depositing 3 run fillets using CO2.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
This man knows his stuff and is a class welder, great info PaulI have a Migatronic 180 (180 amps) running 0.6 wire and 5% argon/ CO2 plugged into a 13amp socket, connected to a MCB B32 breaker in my consumer unit.
I make a lot of thin ducting so its handy to leave this set for thin stuff.
I also have a Lincoln 210 (180 amps) running 0.8 wire and 15% argon/CO2 which copes with the 3 to 8mm jobs. This also will go down to car bodywork.
This also runs from the same sockets in the workshop. It's a pain to keep swopping 15kg reels of wire so both welders get used as welding is my living.
Both have a good range of settings (10) and this is important. Welders with H/L-1/2 are just toys.
Gas also adds to the equation as for example by using neat CO2 (pub gas) the heat is increased for thick plate. I have welded teeth to digger buckets by depositing 3 run fillets using CO2.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
I've seen loads of threads like this in my time.
It's a shame that in 99% of cases the OP ends up buying a HOS make. (shrugs shoulders)
That's all very well and the machines you've identified are indeed capable, probably easy to learn to use and will produce consistent welds; they're also very expensive and the jobs the OP identified can be done perfectly adequately with an inverter stick welder a tenth of the price.
I'm not an expert, but there as been some good advice here.
The Clarke machines are good for the money, the red ones rather than blue assuming that infor is current still. I've used the smaller one (135e maybe) and also the larger but lower duty cycle one, they work and ar good for the money.
I'm told by someone who has one the Jasic machines are good and as BOC sell them I'm sure they are, a freind who should know says the R Tech machines are good for the money and is planning to get one.
Personally I have a Esab CaddyMig 160i which is a inverter MIG, owned it about 8years now from when inverters where still quite new, and while chronically under used, it is bloody lovely to use and goes in like butter. Metal hot glue machine.
I use argoshield light on the BOC hobbiest discount, which is not the cheapest option, but simple with lots of depots nationally, size X is easy to lift about but falls over without support, size y is about the limit of what one man can lift into a car and ontona boat easily.
As per the above, if you are not planning to weld thinner stuff, for slightly dirty metal, working outside where there is wind, then stick/mma/arc much more common. I understand the modern inverter units are a lot easier to use and learn on then some of the more basic entry spec transformer types I've had a play with, but it's not as 'point and squirt' and not a skill I've mastered.
Daniel
The Clarke machines are good for the money, the red ones rather than blue assuming that infor is current still. I've used the smaller one (135e maybe) and also the larger but lower duty cycle one, they work and ar good for the money.
I'm told by someone who has one the Jasic machines are good and as BOC sell them I'm sure they are, a freind who should know says the R Tech machines are good for the money and is planning to get one.
Personally I have a Esab CaddyMig 160i which is a inverter MIG, owned it about 8years now from when inverters where still quite new, and while chronically under used, it is bloody lovely to use and goes in like butter. Metal hot glue machine.
I use argoshield light on the BOC hobbiest discount, which is not the cheapest option, but simple with lots of depots nationally, size X is easy to lift about but falls over without support, size y is about the limit of what one man can lift into a car and ontona boat easily.
As per the above, if you are not planning to weld thinner stuff, for slightly dirty metal, working outside where there is wind, then stick/mma/arc much more common. I understand the modern inverter units are a lot easier to use and learn on then some of the more basic entry spec transformer types I've had a play with, but it's not as 'point and squirt' and not a skill I've mastered.
Daniel
finishing touch said:
PaulKemp said:
finishing touch said:
Don't want to get involved in any arguments so I will comment on things that haven't been covered on the thread so far.
I have a Migatronic 180 (180 amps) running 0.6 wire and 5% argon/ CO2 plugged into a 13amp socket, connected to a MCB B32 breaker in my consumer unit.
I make a lot of thin ducting so its handy to leave this set for thin stuff.
I also have a Lincoln 210 (180 amps) running 0.8 wire and 15% argon/CO2 which copes with the 3 to 8mm jobs. This also will go down to car bodywork.
This also runs from the same sockets in the workshop. It's a pain to keep swopping 15kg reels of wire so both welders get used as welding is my living.
Both have a good range of settings (10) and this is important. Welders with H/L-1/2 are just toys.
Gas also adds to the equation as for example by using neat CO2 (pub gas) the heat is increased for thick plate. I have welded teeth to digger buckets by depositing 3 run fillets using CO2.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
This man knows his stuff and is a class welder, great info PaulI have a Migatronic 180 (180 amps) running 0.6 wire and 5% argon/ CO2 plugged into a 13amp socket, connected to a MCB B32 breaker in my consumer unit.
I make a lot of thin ducting so its handy to leave this set for thin stuff.
I also have a Lincoln 210 (180 amps) running 0.8 wire and 15% argon/CO2 which copes with the 3 to 8mm jobs. This also will go down to car bodywork.
This also runs from the same sockets in the workshop. It's a pain to keep swopping 15kg reels of wire so both welders get used as welding is my living.
Both have a good range of settings (10) and this is important. Welders with H/L-1/2 are just toys.
Gas also adds to the equation as for example by using neat CO2 (pub gas) the heat is increased for thick plate. I have welded teeth to digger buckets by depositing 3 run fillets using CO2.
Hope this helps.
Paul G
I've seen loads of threads like this in my time.
It's a shame that in 99% of cases the OP ends up buying a HOS make. (shrugs shoulders)
I’ve learnt over the years that if you buy cheap you buy twice.
smiffy555 said:
Thank you all for your advise, some very good comments have been made.
I don’t want a stick welder as I do want to also do car welding on much thinner sheet metal.
In that case, also look at the minimum-amps as well as max, some inexpensive and or transfor based welders with only a few finite settings, dont go low enough for automotive use (25-30A) if they also go up high enough for 5mm plate (120-160A) as well. I don’t want a stick welder as I do want to also do car welding on much thinner sheet metal.
Daniel
I'm still hunting for a regulator in order to get my MIG back up and running - what I have currently (and is leaking / non-working) is:
and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
If you want MIG, then you need someting with a chunky power output to do farm bits, but also real sensitivity if you are doing car bits.
I made do with a super cheap “Maypole Turbo Mig” for many years. My welding looked like seagull s
t, but it was strong enough. It had 4 settings - anything on HI just blew cars to bits, the lowest of LO did nothing and there is one setting that sort of worked.
Thankfully it died.
Being more solvent (i.e. gainfully employed), I bought a Kemppi Mini Arc 200, now its an Evo 200 I think. Yes it was more expensive but it was an utter revelation. Now my welding looks almost professional. You just dial in the metal thickness and weld. What is brilliant is you can feel it is about to burn through, and dial down the thickness from 1 mm to 0.9 mm - and it just works.
On gas - get an Albee cylinder of Ar mix - the BOC rentals cost a bloody fortune over the years.
If you’re really doing farm stuff and you have 3 phase, you might want to look for an old 3ph stick machine as well - they’ll be cheap, and if you’re welding 1/2” plate, you’ll need it.
I made do with a super cheap “Maypole Turbo Mig” for many years. My welding looked like seagull s
t, but it was strong enough. It had 4 settings - anything on HI just blew cars to bits, the lowest of LO did nothing and there is one setting that sort of worked.Thankfully it died.
Being more solvent (i.e. gainfully employed), I bought a Kemppi Mini Arc 200, now its an Evo 200 I think. Yes it was more expensive but it was an utter revelation. Now my welding looks almost professional. You just dial in the metal thickness and weld. What is brilliant is you can feel it is about to burn through, and dial down the thickness from 1 mm to 0.9 mm - and it just works.
On gas - get an Albee cylinder of Ar mix - the BOC rentals cost a bloody fortune over the years.
If you’re really doing farm stuff and you have 3 phase, you might want to look for an old 3ph stick machine as well - they’ll be cheap, and if you’re welding 1/2” plate, you’ll need it.
S6PNJ said:
I'm still hunting for a regulator in order to get my MIG back up and running - what I have currently (and is leaking / non-working) is:
and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
Presumably pub has, rather than welding gas? Hence the fitting and being pure CO2? Where does it leak?and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
rxe said:
If you want MIG, then you need someting with a chunky power output to do farm bits, but also real sensitivity if you are doing car bits.
I made do with a super cheap “Maypole Turbo Mig” for many years. My welding looked like seagull st, but it was strong enough. It had 4 settings - anything on HI just blew cars to bits, the lowest of LO did nothing and there is one setting that sort of worked.
Thankfully it died.
Being more solvent (i.e. gainfully employed), I bought a Kemppi Mini Arc 200, now its an Evo 200 I think. Yes it was more expensive but it was an utter revelation. Now my welding looks almost professional. You just dial in the metal thickness and weld. What is brilliant is you can feel it is about to burn through, and dial down the thickness from 1 mm to 0.9 mm - and it just works.
On gas - get an Albee cylinder of Ar mix - the BOC rentals cost a bloody fortune over the years.
If you’re really doing farm stuff and you have 3 phase, you might want to look for an old 3ph stick machine as well - they’ll be cheap, and if you’re welding 1/2” plate, you’ll need it.
Good advice given, my ESAB Caddy MOG significantly improves the output of my ability, and like the Kemppi just dial in the thickness and go.I made do with a super cheap “Maypole Turbo Mig” for many years. My welding looked like seagull s
t, but it was strong enough. It had 4 settings - anything on HI just blew cars to bits, the lowest of LO did nothing and there is one setting that sort of worked.Thankfully it died.
Being more solvent (i.e. gainfully employed), I bought a Kemppi Mini Arc 200, now its an Evo 200 I think. Yes it was more expensive but it was an utter revelation. Now my welding looks almost professional. You just dial in the metal thickness and weld. What is brilliant is you can feel it is about to burn through, and dial down the thickness from 1 mm to 0.9 mm - and it just works.
On gas - get an Albee cylinder of Ar mix - the BOC rentals cost a bloody fortune over the years.
If you’re really doing farm stuff and you have 3 phase, you might want to look for an old 3ph stick machine as well - they’ll be cheap, and if you’re welding 1/2” plate, you’ll need it.
Daniel
S6PNJ said:
I'm still hunting for a regulator in order to get my MIG back up and running - what I have currently (and is leaking / non-working) is:
and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
One of these? Need to check the thread size though, and as it's cheapnese there's a non-zero risk that it will explode you to death.and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
hidetheelephants said:
S6PNJ said:
I'm still hunting for a regulator in order to get my MIG back up and running - what I have currently (and is leaking / non-working) is:
and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
One of these? Need to check the thread size though, and as it's cheapnese there's a non-zero risk that it will explode you to death.and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
I'm not too worried about being exploded to death - I think I've accidentally knocked my bottle over a few times and it hasn't gone whaboom yet...Chinesium is a very tough metal so I'm told....
dhutch said:
S6PNJ said:
I'm still hunting for a regulator in order to get my MIG back up and running - what I have currently (and is leaking / non-working) is:
and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
Presumably pub has, rather than welding gas? Hence the fitting and being pure CO2? Where does it leak?and it needs to interface with:
preferably so I can also connect my 'microbore' gas pipe that feeds into the MIG itself, but I'm sure I can 'interface' it in some way shape or form.
Any suggestions? Lots of the regs I've seen seem to have a 'plug' that interfaces with the bottle, but mine has a flush face with a washer/seal.
Regarding the leak, when the bottle tap is opened, gas leaks from the valve somewhere, it seems to be venting all the time which to me suggests a failed / degraded bit somewhere. I've had it apart (no I've not lost anything) and I can't make head nor tale of where it might be leaking from (I'm an engineer who is generally quite good at things like this).
dhutch said:
If it's the reg, rather than the seal to the bottle, that is leaking then likely the easiest option is a new reg. They are not overly expensive, although I might not go for £4 eBay special!
That's what I'm trying to do, hence my posting all the above info.. (but happy to try a £4 eBay special, though I suspect it will be an £8-£9 eBay special).Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff