Snapped ignition coil bolt
Discussion
First time posting here. Had a bit of a dilemma yesterday. I'm 18 doing a level 2 city and guilds course in motor vehicle (mechanic). Me and my dad both have the same car, a mk1 yaris with a 1.0 vvti engine. I brought mine a few month ago with 114k and no service history, bit of a risk but so far it's fine (apart from 1 alternator that decided to make a whining noise, replaced it within 5 days of when I noticed the noise). Anyways as soon as I got it home I ordered parts to service it myself, and done the full lot, spark plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. Bigger jobs (or jobs I couldn't be bothered to do and let someone else do) like gearbox oil change and handbrake adjustment.
Gone a bit off topic, but anyways I tried servicing my dad's yaris on Sunday afternoon. The bolt that holds the ignition coil down on cylinder 1 snapped. It's not due to age I think because the guy that last serviced my dad's car did it 9 months ago and used a impact wrench machine thing to tighten. And I tried doing the 2nd cylinder and that ignition coil bolt snapped as well. So overall I just gave up on trying to change the spark plugs. I'm taking my dad's car to the mechanic tomorrow (found one that's actually honest, but he's busy). Is it possible to get the bolt out? The engine still starts without the bolt, but I'm thinking would the coil fall out if I go over a speed bump?
Gone a bit off topic, but anyways I tried servicing my dad's yaris on Sunday afternoon. The bolt that holds the ignition coil down on cylinder 1 snapped. It's not due to age I think because the guy that last serviced my dad's car did it 9 months ago and used a impact wrench machine thing to tighten. And I tried doing the 2nd cylinder and that ignition coil bolt snapped as well. So overall I just gave up on trying to change the spark plugs. I'm taking my dad's car to the mechanic tomorrow (found one that's actually honest, but he's busy). Is it possible to get the bolt out? The engine still starts without the bolt, but I'm thinking would the coil fall out if I go over a speed bump?
Not sure of the size of the bolt but take a look at stud extractors - a small hole is drilled in the remainder of the bolt and then a stud extractor (with a reverse thread) is wound into the stud- the extractor tightens as it bites into the hole you drilled and removes the bolt.
If you're trainng as a mechanic then I guess this will be a very useful skill to have as sheared bolts/studs are a hazard of working with old cars
If you're trainng as a mechanic then I guess this will be a very useful skill to have as sheared bolts/studs are a hazard of working with old cars
I'm not sure he is experienced enough to be introduced to the delights of Mig welding....Whilst I appreciate that is one way of getting it done I'm not sure a beginner will have the level of skill to do that.
Next thread "I blew up my father's car when trying to weld a nut onto a stud on the engine"
Next thread "I blew up my father's car when trying to weld a nut onto a stud on the engine"
Miserablegit said:
Not sure of the size of the bolt but take a look at stud extractors - a small hole is drilled in the remainder of the bolt and then a stud extractor (with a reverse thread) is wound into the stud- the extractor tightens as it bites into the hole you drilled and removes the bolt.
If you're trainng as a mechanic then I guess this will be a very useful skill to have as sheared bolts/studs are a hazard of working with old cars
I'll give it a go, thanks for that. Snapped one bolt in college But luckily it snapped weirdly and it was a massive bolt so I managed to keep turning it out with a pen. The bolt in my dad's yaris is a 10mm, so not can't do that 😂😂. It snapped with some of the thread stuck deep in the hole.If you're trainng as a mechanic then I guess this will be a very useful skill to have as sheared bolts/studs are a hazard of working with old cars
I had a read online people recommend left handed drill bits but I'm not too sure, is it any good?
A drill is designed to cut into a material - by all means use a reverse drill bit to cut a small hole for the stud extractor but stud extractors have a reverse screw thread that is designed to bite into the stud and tighten its bite as it pulls it out- Not sure a drill bit could do that - also, the last thing you want is a hardened drill bit shearing off inside the hole which will really be a PITA to fix and is probably the kind of job you can expect to have to deal with when you are working as a mechanic.
is it same as an aygo engine? bolts into a plastic rocker cover ?
might be cheaper to replace that than pay a mechanic
left hand drill can work , or tap it around with a small dot punch /cut a slot in it ...kinda depends if its seized solid or just broken , if its not seized it wont take much effort to turn it enough to grab it with pliers
might be cheaper to replace that than pay a mechanic
left hand drill can work , or tap it around with a small dot punch /cut a slot in it ...kinda depends if its seized solid or just broken , if its not seized it wont take much effort to turn it enough to grab it with pliers
Yep, pefectly possible with varying levels of awkardness (both in technique and sometimes due to access)
1) Old favorite to weld a Nut on top of what's left then wind it out, the heat expansion and contraction of the welding is what breaks the contact between thread and housing, then it should wind out nice and easy
2) Left handed drill bit... drill bit that spins counter clockwise, will remove some threads alone depending on levels of contact. Punching a small hole with a pin punch into the centre of the thread will help the drill find the centre
3) Ties into 2, using a thread extractor as some above have said, drill pilot hole then grips counter clockwise with the added bonus you can get a nut/grips on the top and apply some torque to break contact
4) Drill out the current fitting and rethread (or helii-coil)
5) Go wider, remove the piece of the engine its threaded into and replace (or send piece to a machine shop and get them to get the thread out)
6) Phone the scrap man, removes both the bolt and the car in one handy transaction
1) Old favorite to weld a Nut on top of what's left then wind it out, the heat expansion and contraction of the welding is what breaks the contact between thread and housing, then it should wind out nice and easy
2) Left handed drill bit... drill bit that spins counter clockwise, will remove some threads alone depending on levels of contact. Punching a small hole with a pin punch into the centre of the thread will help the drill find the centre
3) Ties into 2, using a thread extractor as some above have said, drill pilot hole then grips counter clockwise with the added bonus you can get a nut/grips on the top and apply some torque to break contact
4) Drill out the current fitting and rethread (or helii-coil)
5) Go wider, remove the piece of the engine its threaded into and replace (or send piece to a machine shop and get them to get the thread out)
6) Phone the scrap man, removes both the bolt and the car in one handy transaction
steveo3002 said:
is it same as an aygo engine? bolts into a plastic rocker cover ?
might be cheaper to replace that than pay a mechanic
left hand drill can work , or tap it around with a small dot punch /cut a slot in it ...kinda depends if its seized solid or just broken , if its not seized it wont take much effort to turn it enough to grab it with pliers
Looks like you can get one on Ebay for a round 35 quid delivered, new gasket and you're well awaymight be cheaper to replace that than pay a mechanic
left hand drill can work , or tap it around with a small dot punch /cut a slot in it ...kinda depends if its seized solid or just broken , if its not seized it wont take much effort to turn it enough to grab it with pliers
Josh
Sorry for the late reply been quite busy with work (work as a delivery guy). I've asked my tutor and he said to use a good screw extractor and to drill a hole in the centre of the bolt. Don't have one so I'm going to take it to the mechanic, he'll know what to do. It's not too much of a bad issue, the ignition coil seems to go over the spark plug tightly without the bolt anyways. It's the 1 sz fe engine and not the same as the aygo, not too sure but I think it's the mk2 yaris and aygo that have the same 1.0 engine? But thanks everyone i appreciate the advice. Also I'm not using heat, quite a few plastic pieces around the top of the engine and with my inexperience I'll end up doing more harm than good!
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff