Seized drop link bolts

[JonChalk]

Started stripping front suspension on OHs MOT- failure Audi A1, only to find that the drop link nuts are seized onto the thread and just rotate. Even after plenty of WD40 soaking.

As you can see from the photo, the countersunk centre Torx has just snapped off half the edge with application of tiniest amount of torque to try and stop rotation and an impact wrench freed up the whole bolt/nut, but just spins it on the nut. There’s no hex on the back of this, just a rounded head (like a coach bolt, but without the squared section to prevent rotation.

I’m thinking the only solution is to buy new bolts ( as part of droplink set) and drill out or grind off the bolts.

Edited by JonChalk on Saturday 20th February 12:22

[steveo3002]

cut em off and replace

[Ynox]

Either a nutsplitter or a dremel / grinder on the nuts.

Other option is to try a blow torch on the nut before getting an impact on it. That and some decent penetrating fluid might get it undone.

[tapkaJohnD]

Despite the claims for so many uses for WD40, it is not a good penetrating oil! They sell an own-brand penetrating oil, which is an admission of that!

I've been impressed by "Innotec Deblock" oil. But the damage to that fastener demands replacement, even if you could get it off.

[JonChalk]

Thanks all - new droplink set ordered - time to get the grinder & drill out! Going to see about a nut-splitter.

[E-bmw]

Can't really see from that pic, but if the end of the drop link is a ball joint, it will come with full replacements anyway.

[JonChalk]

E-bmw said:

Can't really see from that pic, but if the end of the drop link is a ball joint, it will come with full replacements anyway.

Yep, they do.

[darreni]

Hacksaw between the mount & boot. 10 mins max.

[Captain Answer]

Can't quite see from photo but if you can get an angle grinder in the other side with a cutting disk you'd have that off in 30 seconds, knock out the remains if still stuck then just bolt in the new ones

[JonChalk]

Captain Answer said:

Can't quite see from photo but if you can get an angle grinder in the other side with a cutting disk you'd have that off in 30 seconds, knock out the remains if still stuck then just bolt in the new ones

Probably going to have to do exactly that - just waiting for new grinder to turn up . Plus nut-splitters, just in case

Never hurts to have a plan B!

[Captain Answer]

JonChalk said:

Probably going to have to do exactly that - just waiting for new grinder to turn up . Plus nut-splitters, just in case

Never hurts to have a plan B!

Usually how I approach them, the nuts are always seized to hell and won't come out so just attack them with angle grinder

Sharp cold chisel and lump hammer will work too if you can't get in the nut splitter, takes a wee bit longer that one mind

[markcoznottz]

Captain Answer said:

Can't quite see from photo but if you can get an angle grinder in the other side with a cutting disk you'd have that off in 30 seconds, knock out the remains if still stuck then just bolt in the new ones

Every time, like you say depends on access. Those discs are amazing, cut through high tensile steel like butter. It’s worth saving older worn discs as well, because they get smaller as they wear, aiding tight access. I usually do jobs like that with an induction tool nowadays, cherry red the nut, squirt with water, impact straight off.

[Krikkit]

Yep always tricky are drop link bolts, often in always spots or completely obscured by their own brackets.

Think I've used just about every method in this thread, one not mentioned is one of those hack saws that holds the blade in the centre leaving the end free

[InitialDave]

Horrible bloody things.

If access is poor on the nut to cut it, either cut the other end off flush with the surface, or lever the actual link off its ball and grab it tightly with mole grips so you can undo the nut. Some are nice enough to put spanner flats on that side, but they're often rather weedy and chew up before the seized nut moves.

Also have both sides up on stands so neither is loaded, and have a jack to raise one suspension arm a fraction if it's still lower than the other, so you're not fighting the ARB trying to get them off/on.

[Captain Answer]

markcoznottz said:

Every time, like you say depends on access. Those discs are amazing, cut through high tensile steel like butter. It’s worth saving older worn discs as well, because they get smaller as they wear, aiding tight access. I usually do jobs like that with an induction tool nowadays, cherry red the nut, squirt with water, impact straight off.

A 90 degree angle grinder would be just peachy for doing them, not had a sufficient excuse to buy one as yet though