Motorhomes - an education please.
Discussion
TIGA84 said:
Wacky Racer said:
The most important advice buying ANY second hand motorhome or caravan is:-
Check for the dreaded DAMP with a damp meter.
Mechanical stuff is relatively easy to fix, but damp problems in the floors/walls can run into thousands of pounds.
Check that the vehicle you are thinking of buying has had YEARLY habitation checks from new.
This can be a problem with motorhomes that are even a year or two old.
Any damp reading over 15% is cause for concern.
Do a Google search for this issue.
I know I'm multiple quoting but is damp really that prevalent?Check for the dreaded DAMP with a damp meter.
Mechanical stuff is relatively easy to fix, but damp problems in the floors/walls can run into thousands of pounds.
Check that the vehicle you are thinking of buying has had YEARLY habitation checks from new.
This can be a problem with motorhomes that are even a year or two old.
Any damp reading over 15% is cause for concern.
Do a Google search for this issue.
Is that through lack of care/cover/storage, or "they all do that sir."?
All you need to do is do your research on google.
Invest in a damp meter, they are not expensive, and take it with you.
Check the floor is not "Spongy" and especially where the floor meets the side and back walls.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u73ECgy2fRo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xt3akAEBQU
Wacky Racer said:
TIGA84 said:
Wacky Racer said:
The most important advice buying ANY second hand motorhome or caravan is:-
Check for the dreaded DAMP with a damp meter.
Mechanical stuff is relatively easy to fix, but damp problems in the floors/walls can run into thousands of pounds.
Check that the vehicle you are thinking of buying has had YEARLY habitation checks from new.
This can be a problem with motorhomes that are even a year or two old.
Any damp reading over 15% is cause for concern.
Do a Google search for this issue.
I know I'm multiple quoting but is damp really that prevalent?Check for the dreaded DAMP with a damp meter.
Mechanical stuff is relatively easy to fix, but damp problems in the floors/walls can run into thousands of pounds.
Check that the vehicle you are thinking of buying has had YEARLY habitation checks from new.
This can be a problem with motorhomes that are even a year or two old.
Any damp reading over 15% is cause for concern.
Do a Google search for this issue.
Is that through lack of care/cover/storage, or "they all do that sir."?
All you need to do is do your research on google.
Invest in a damp meter, they are not expensive, and take it with you.
Check the floor is not "Spongy" and especially where the floor meets the side and back walls.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u73ECgy2fRo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xt3akAEBQU
I have a damp meter, am happy to wave over some motorhome walls for fellow PHers based in Kent if it would be of use.
Just to reiterate: be very aware of payload, licences and permissible trailer weights.
In terms of payload check the Mass in running order (MIRO) as this will allow for a certain weight BEFORE it affects the payload. As has been mentioned this normally includes a 75kg allowance for a driver but different manufacturers may well have different ways of calculating their MIRO. Generally it could include 90% full fresh water and fuel tanks too which will help when it comes to payload calcs. There is a good write up here (but as I say, check each MH you fancy)...
https://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/motorhomes/artic...
If there are 2 adults and 2 kids I would be cautious with 500kg personally. Make sure to check what extras have been fitted to any MH you fancy as these will come out of your payload too...such as a wind out awning for example, a bike rack, TV, Microwave etc etc. In terms of the MIRO calcs, 75kg isn't much for the driver (depending on how heavy you are)....I am around 102kg so that's 27kg over already for me. Add on the wife and kids weight; clothing; bedding; food; BBQ; beer; toolkit; outside chairs; table; EHU lead; crockery plus anything else you might pack, and it very soon adds up. The advice about going to a public weighbridge is sound advice if you are worried about your weight allowance.
With towing you need to look at the Gross Train Weight and towing limits of each MH you like the look of as they are likely to all be different. I don't tow myself, but there is more info here...
https://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/motorhomes/artic...
The advice on renting is very good advice. Decide on the layout that you think you need in the future and rent that one. Whilst out in the MH start 2 lists: things you DEFINITELY want to have when you buy your own MH and secondly, things that are nice to have. When you then start looking to buy you can use these lists to define your search.
The show at the NEC in a couple of weeks time is GREAT for looking at layouts etc and getting a feel for the industry. It is HUGE though so make sure to allow a full day. As the show tends to only show new MH's, once you have an idea of your model you could ask dealers to keep an eye out for you. After the Oct show they will have quite a few trade-ins, as folks buy new MHs and part-ex their old ones. Failing that (and depending on your timescales) the smaller regional shows may well be a better bet for used MHs.
Damp: can be a killer. Personally I think that if it has been remedied under warranty (with proof) then you should be OK. Buying a damp meter is good advice as is asking to see records of the annual habitation checks. A sheaf of paperwork left by the last owner can point to the fact that the owner looked after it (a bit like buying a used car privately: it's great when the owner can produce a wedge of paperwork, old MOTs etc etc).
Mileage is usually no issue as the base vehicles are commercial trucks at the end of the day and are good for 000's of miles provided they have been maintained. Buy on condition rather than mileage...
Also on this note check the date stamp on each of the tyres (4 digits showing the week and year of manufacture e.g. 1512 being week 15 of 2012) . Many MH's are infrequently used so the tyres may look in great nick with loads of tread however they may be well past their age limits (max 7 years recommended) so could well start to crack on the sidewall (which you may not be able to see unless underneath the MH). This problem is exacerbated if the MH has been in hot climates for any length of time as UV can affect the tyres too.
Good luck: there will definitely be a MH out there that will be a perfect fit for you.
In terms of payload check the Mass in running order (MIRO) as this will allow for a certain weight BEFORE it affects the payload. As has been mentioned this normally includes a 75kg allowance for a driver but different manufacturers may well have different ways of calculating their MIRO. Generally it could include 90% full fresh water and fuel tanks too which will help when it comes to payload calcs. There is a good write up here (but as I say, check each MH you fancy)...
https://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/motorhomes/artic...
If there are 2 adults and 2 kids I would be cautious with 500kg personally. Make sure to check what extras have been fitted to any MH you fancy as these will come out of your payload too...such as a wind out awning for example, a bike rack, TV, Microwave etc etc. In terms of the MIRO calcs, 75kg isn't much for the driver (depending on how heavy you are)....I am around 102kg so that's 27kg over already for me. Add on the wife and kids weight; clothing; bedding; food; BBQ; beer; toolkit; outside chairs; table; EHU lead; crockery plus anything else you might pack, and it very soon adds up. The advice about going to a public weighbridge is sound advice if you are worried about your weight allowance.
With towing you need to look at the Gross Train Weight and towing limits of each MH you like the look of as they are likely to all be different. I don't tow myself, but there is more info here...
https://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/motorhomes/artic...
The advice on renting is very good advice. Decide on the layout that you think you need in the future and rent that one. Whilst out in the MH start 2 lists: things you DEFINITELY want to have when you buy your own MH and secondly, things that are nice to have. When you then start looking to buy you can use these lists to define your search.
The show at the NEC in a couple of weeks time is GREAT for looking at layouts etc and getting a feel for the industry. It is HUGE though so make sure to allow a full day. As the show tends to only show new MH's, once you have an idea of your model you could ask dealers to keep an eye out for you. After the Oct show they will have quite a few trade-ins, as folks buy new MHs and part-ex their old ones. Failing that (and depending on your timescales) the smaller regional shows may well be a better bet for used MHs.
Damp: can be a killer. Personally I think that if it has been remedied under warranty (with proof) then you should be OK. Buying a damp meter is good advice as is asking to see records of the annual habitation checks. A sheaf of paperwork left by the last owner can point to the fact that the owner looked after it (a bit like buying a used car privately: it's great when the owner can produce a wedge of paperwork, old MOTs etc etc).
Mileage is usually no issue as the base vehicles are commercial trucks at the end of the day and are good for 000's of miles provided they have been maintained. Buy on condition rather than mileage...
Also on this note check the date stamp on each of the tyres (4 digits showing the week and year of manufacture e.g. 1512 being week 15 of 2012) . Many MH's are infrequently used so the tyres may look in great nick with loads of tread however they may be well past their age limits (max 7 years recommended) so could well start to crack on the sidewall (which you may not be able to see unless underneath the MH). This problem is exacerbated if the MH has been in hot climates for any length of time as UV can affect the tyres too.
Good luck: there will definitely be a MH out there that will be a perfect fit for you.
Edited by oblio on Monday 1st October 09:14
I'm on the lookout as well - joined a number of FB group's who can sometimes help.
My favoured model is an old Hymer at present.
What has been said about damp. Apparently there is quite a lot about theft at present - especially Ford based - loved by the Irish.
The weight limit issue - not only staying under it but also may even further restrict where you can drive due to weight limits - let alone width or height. Currently in France and despite seeing hundreds of vehicles every day - a lot of restrictions - again the FB group's help guide you.
And don't forget you are driving a van - not your car - know someone who has just picked up two speeding tickets in Lake District as a result.
My favoured model is an old Hymer at present.
What has been said about damp. Apparently there is quite a lot about theft at present - especially Ford based - loved by the Irish.
The weight limit issue - not only staying under it but also may even further restrict where you can drive due to weight limits - let alone width or height. Currently in France and despite seeing hundreds of vehicles every day - a lot of restrictions - again the FB group's help guide you.
And don't forget you are driving a van - not your car - know someone who has just picked up two speeding tickets in Lake District as a result.
gordmac said:
My understanding is that if it is registered as a motor caravan car speed limits apply.
Another thing, depending on where you use it, over 6m pay commercial rates on ferries.
Not sure about ferries, but for Eurotunnel they have a rate for "Campervans" - The same rate applies whether a 5m Van conversion or a 9m A-Class. When we booked earlier this year there was no question of length until we actually got to check-in.Another thing, depending on where you use it, over 6m pay commercial rates on ferries.
Speed limits are a bit of a weird area for many motorhomes (https://www.gov.uk/speed-limits) - The limit is reduced if the UNLADEN weight is over 3050kg, but the clarification of what is the unladen weight is not massively clear (eg apparently it does not include fuel / items being carried etc) and nowhere on the V5 is the unladen weight recorded. Based on a 3500kg max weight my motorhome (according to the manufacturer documents) has a payload of 425kg - so a basic assumption would be that an unladen weight would be 3075kg - but payloads are often calculated after adding a driver / bit of water / fuel etc - so my motorhome COULD be under 3050kg unladen!
As the unladen weight is not recorded anywhere either on the vehicle or on the V5 I also struggle to understand how the DVLA / Police could decide on the speed limit my motorhome should be subjected to.
None of this changes the fact that they are pretty slow anyway, they're not the most dynamic vehicles and often its easier to sit at a slightly lower speed anyway.
Edited by dterry on Saturday 6th October 12:27
k me!Please listen to Wacky Racer and cinnamonfan
If you're not buying from a dealer do a damp test. Even then I'd do one anyway.
I've taken one or two in PX and sold them to well known Motorhome dealer.
Their buyer comes out to check every one with his eagle eyes, and his little damp meter.
They can easily get damaged on top, and the damp starts there.
And the floors as already mentioned.
Even if it's two/three years old, skylights etc can leak.
If you're not buying from a dealer do a damp test. Even then I'd do one anyway.
I've taken one or two in PX and sold them to well known Motorhome dealer.
Their buyer comes out to check every one with his eagle eyes, and his little damp meter.
They can easily get damaged on top, and the damp starts there.
And the floors as already mentioned.
Even if it's two/three years old, skylights etc can leak.
louiebaby said:
I'm assuming £206 is better than it sat in the yard for £0.
Not really. Take the VAT out, then you have got turn around & cleaning costs - although this is a motorholme brand, so maybe not... 
Handover cost - although see above...
And then you have got the cost/mile for maintenance/tyres/depreciation - assuming the MH isn't a wreck.
Trust me, they are doing work for the sake of it for that price - there certainly isn't any margin in it.
GlenMH said:
louiebaby said:
I'm assuming £206 is better than it sat in the yard for £0.
Not really. Take the VAT out, then you have got turn around & cleaning costs - although this is a motorholme brand, so maybe not... Handover cost - although see above...
And then you have got the cost/mile for maintenance/tyres/depreciation - assuming the MH isn't a wreck.
Trust me, they are doing work for the sake of it for that price - there certainly isn't any margin in it.
There are plenty of reviews and articles online I should have read before I took the plunge.
I really hope no-one bothered to try to book, and I've deleted my post with the phone number in.
(Still want a motorhome though.)
louiebaby said:
Turns out there is margin on it when you add in the "extras". I've taken a £206 hit and walked away.
There are plenty of reviews and articles online I should have read before I took the plunge.
I really hope no-one bothered to try to book, and I've deleted my post with the phone number in.
(Still want a motorhome though.)
There are plenty of reviews and articles online I should have read before I took the plunge.
I really hope no-one bothered to try to book, and I've deleted my post with the phone number in.
(Still want a motorhome though.)
That supplier does have a reputation for doing exactly that. There are plenty of companies out there that don't charge for 'extras' and are more honest and up-front about their pricing.Drop me a PM with your rough location and I can ask a contact of mine who he recommends in your area. He has run a fleet of 20+ motorhomes for nearly 10 years so knows the industry.
GlenMH said:
That supplier does have a reputation for doing exactly that. There are plenty of companies out there that don't charge for 'extras' and are more honest and up-front about their pricing.Drop me a PM with your rough location and I can ask a contact of mine who he recommends in your area. He has run a fleet of 20+ motorhomes for nearly 10 years so knows the industry.
With the best will in the world, it's going to be next year now, so no rush.
Thanks in advance!
louiebaby said:
nagsheadwarrior said:
I have a friend who has a small rental company renting goodnused vans at very decent rates, don't know where you are but he is near Nottingham, if you want his details let me know, he's a petrolhead too
This would be helpful, thank you...ta
Wacky Racer said:
Ignore it at your peril.
All you need to do is do your research on google.
Invest in a damp meter, they are not expensive, and take it with you.
Check the floor is not "Spongy" and especially where the floor meets the side and back walls.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u73ECgy2fRo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xt3akAEBQU
This is such good advice, long story short, a guy that works for me, down on his luck, wife left him etc decided to plough his savings into a Transit based Motorhome for the weekends when he can see his kids.All you need to do is do your research on google.
Invest in a damp meter, they are not expensive, and take it with you.
Check the floor is not "Spongy" and especially where the floor meets the side and back walls.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u73ECgy2fRo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xt3akAEBQU
He splashed about £10k on one local to where he lives in a private sale. He wanted to do a few DIY improvements and replacements on the van and once he started he found it was as rotten as a peach underneath all the plastic and panelling and within 6 months it ended up being beyond economical repair.
Yes, with hindsight, should have had an RAC type person /expert check it over etc, but as a competent DIY'er he thought it all looked sound.
Buyer beware etc.
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