want to buy a Glanza V

[RobCrezz]

Baryonyx said:

I would have advised the same thing, so much car available for little money these days that you could get something far more interesting than a hatchback. Mind you, if he's struggling to insure a Civic Type R and other cars like that I suspect he can pretty much forget about things like MR2 Turbos etc etc. OTOH, I wouldn't have thought an imported turbo powered hatchback with loads of mods would be cheap to insure!

OP, if you see blue smoke on start up I'd suspect gasket troubles. Whilst test driving you'll need to test the turbo to make sure it pulls strongly. Keep an eye on the rear view mirror whilst the turbo is working, if you see blue smoke under boost I'd walk away, as knackered turbos are never cheap fixes.

My modded MR2 turbo was cheaper to insure than my EP3 Type R that followed it! Strange I know!

[muthaducka]

M1LL3R88 said:

Thanks for your imput i will keep an eye oot for any blue smoke is just when the car starts up or at anytime?

On Idle. Here's a good checklist / guide for you: http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/tips.htm

I've had two and my friend has had three and between us they have pretty much been trouble free. Check the battery has been replaced since import as they are weak and can be £75-100 for a new one. Clutch and gearbox are fine. Engines strong, just look for regular oil changes. No rust issues. Check the speedometer has been switched to MPH.

Just remembered, the window motors are lazy, so check both sides work.

[intrepid44]

muthaducka said:

I would recommend one with the ct9 hybrid turbo at around 185-200 bhp. The internals cope with that power fine and cars with the modified turbo are reasonably cheap to buy. Others have gone the larger turbo, forged internals route and some don't get much more power.

Keep watch of the classifies on the forum and good luck. Pretty reliable cars from my experience but check, suspension and turbo (puffs of blue smoke from back). Bell Direct were good for insurance on these when I was 19+

Disagree. TD04s are available 10 a penny, and with a CT9 hybrid you'll be changing the exhaust manifod, and fitting a decat downpipe anyway to make the power, so why not just fit the TD04 in the first place?

Of course fitting it may be a problem for some people if they're a bit useless and just want a direct fit setup.

The advantage of the TD04 is the fact that at that kind of flow rate required for that power, it uses much less boost than a CT9, this is due to it having a larger housing and not compressing the air as much, meaning it keeps the air cooler and doesn't reach it's thermal limit where any more boost will be offset by an increase in temperature. Much nicer!

[M1LL3R88]

thanks again guys for the imput really apprecated i am defo geting a glanza just going to wait to i get the right 1 though as am not just going to buy any1

[muthaducka]

intrepid44 said:

Disagree. TD04s are available 10 a penny, and with a CT9 hybrid you'll be changing the exhaust manifod, and fitting a decat downpipe anyway to make the power, so why not just fit the TD04 in the first place?

Of course fitting it may be a problem for some people if they're a bit useless and just want a direct fit setup.

The advantage of the TD04 is the fact that at that kind of flow rate required for that power, it uses much less boost than a CT9, this is due to it having a larger housing and not compressing the air as much, meaning it keeps the air cooler and doesn't reach it's thermal limit where any more boost will be offset by an increase in temperature. Much nicer!

I had a tdo4 on mine and my mate had a tdo5! I was suggesting the ct9 from a budget and power increase point of view. That includes availability of parts. Tdo4 with standard manifold? And your telling me about heat build up / flow

Good luck whatever your choice OP and welcome to the forum!

[intrepid44]

muthaducka said:

I had a tdo4 on mine and my mate had a tdo5! I was suggesting the ct9 from a budget and power increase point of view. That includes availability of parts. Tdo4 with standard manifold? And your telling me about heat build up / flow

Good luck whatever your choice OP and welcome to the forum!

No, I said that to make the power with a CT9 Hybrid you will most likely be changing the manifold and the downpipe anyway. Why go to that trouble and have the bottleneck as the turbo? Unless you're suggesting that the only modification required is the hybrid CT9!

Although having said that, when I was building mine it required removal of the air conditioning, pluming for the turbo, pluming for the FMIC, cutting bits of the chassis/rad, repositioning the exhaust etc. I'm not sure how much extra work that is when you'd fit a FMIC to get that power with a CT9, but I still don't see the point of keeping such a rubbish turbo that is the CT9, personally.

So yes I will tell you about heat and flow rates, afterall I do study Mechanical Engineering

[muthaducka]

intrepid44 said:

No, I said that to make the power with a CT9 Hybrid you will most likely be changing the manifold and the downpipe anyway. Why go to that trouble and have the bottleneck as the turbo? Unless you're suggesting that the only modification required is the hybrid CT9!

Although having said that, when I was building mine it required removal of the air conditioning, pluming for the turbo, pluming for the FMIC, cutting bits of the chassis/rad, repositioning the exhaust etc. I'm not sure how much extra work that is when you'd fit a FMIC to get that power with a CT9, but I still don't see the point of keeping such a rubbish turbo that is the CT9, personally.

So yes I will tell you about heat and flow rates, afterall I do study Mechanical Engineering

I like the way you start all your responses with 'no'
What I'm trying to get at is I prefer the fast / responsive approach to tuning the 1.3 rather than going the route of a larger turbo with the on/off switch power delivery. I know you said to run the tdo4 at a low pressure, so maybe our thoughts on that are pretty close. It's a great car as standard and the delivery is good. A CT9 suits the character. Most examples with the tdo4 will go for more power, boost, bigger injectors etc and that's on the road to an engine rebuild, a more costly route.

Good luck with your studies. I completed a BSc (HONS) in Automotive design a good few years ago. Wish I had gone the engineering route although not sure my maths is up to it!

OP - Someone else pointed out the www.toyotagtturbo.com website - I would recommend you join this. There are lots of meets around the country and they have buying advice checklists on there.

[rhinochopig]

intrepid44 said:

muthaducka said:

I had a tdo4 on mine and my mate had a tdo5! I was suggesting the ct9 from a budget and power increase point of view. That includes availability of parts. Tdo4 with standard manifold? And your telling me about heat build up / flow

Good luck whatever your choice OP and welcome to the forum!

No, I said that to make the power with a CT9 Hybrid you will most likely be changing the manifold and the downpipe anyway. Why go to that trouble and have the bottleneck as the turbo? Unless you're suggesting that the only modification required is the hybrid CT9!

Although having said that, when I was building mine it required removal of the air conditioning, pluming for the turbo, pluming for the FMIC, cutting bits of the chassis/rad, repositioning the exhaust etc. I'm not sure how much extra work that is when you'd fit a FMIC to get that power with a CT9, but I still don't see the point of keeping such a rubbish turbo that is the CT9, personally.

So yes I will tell you about heat and flow rates, afterall I do study Mechanical Engineering

On the topic of FMICs, unless going for big power they are a waste of money as you are introducing a much longer pipe run, which affects spool up, due to the compressibility of air. Whilst a TMIC does suffer more with heat soak, they offer much better throttle response. A lad I know has a group-a Impreza (The dev car for McRaes WRC car) and I was surprised to see that even with the power they were running, they kept the TMIC.

[intrepid44]

muthaducka said:

I like the way you start all your responses with 'no'
What I'm trying to get at is I prefer the fast / responsive approach to tuning the 1.3 rather than going the route of a larger turbo with the on/off switch power delivery. I know you said to run the tdo4 at a low pressure, so maybe our thoughts on that are pretty close. It's a great car as standard and the delivery is good. A CT9 suits the character. Most examples with the tdo4 will go for more power, boost, bigger injectors etc and that's on the road to an engine rebuild, a more costly route.

Good luck with your studies. I completed a BSc (HONS) in Automotive design a good few years ago. Wish I had gone the engineering route although not sure my maths is up to it!

OP - Someone else pointed out the www.toyotagtturbo.com website - I would recommend you join this. There are lots of meets around the country and they have buying advice checklists on there.

Ah, you've got me in a paradox now where if I agree with you, then I'd be wrong, and if I say no I'll be wrong. So I won't say anything on that and you'll be wrong... anyway.

I'll sort of agree with that, the smaller turbo will generally have better spool up, although I think the basic design of the CT9 is pretty bad and the spool up isn't great anyway. Anyway here's a plot of my dyno, obviously it doesn't show spool up time or response that can only be felt by the driver.



As can be seen pretty linear more reminiscent of a lazy N/A car than a turbo car, very gradual in it's power delivery.

And thank you, yes there is a lot of maths! In fact it almost feels like I'm studying for an applied maths degree than an engineering degree sometimes, but I think it'll be worth it in the end.

Edited by intrepid44 on Wednesday 23 November 19:02

[anonymous-user]

M1LL3R88 said:

emmm suppose a bit eh both lol if am racing will be on a 1/4 mile track

Of course it will

If paying the insurance will be an issue (as you have indicated) then presuambly the funds required for preventetive maintenance and general upkeep will also be an issue. So it will go bang.

[intrepid44]

rhinochopig said:

On the topic of FMICs, unless going for big power they are a waste of money as you are introducing a much longer pipe run, which affects spool up, due to the compressibility of air. Whilst a TMIC does suffer more with heat soak, they offer much better throttle response. A lad I know has a group-a Impreza (The dev car for McRaes WRC car) and I was surprised to see that even with the power they were running, they kept the TMIC.

In some cases it's probably more beneficial to run a top mount, but with the kind of setup that the Starlet runs it isn't a massive amount more pipe work, I would get a picture up but I don't think I have any clear shots my engine bay at the moment. And on that basis I think it's more beneficial for the extra cooling provided at the detriment of response.

[muthaducka]

intrepid44 said:

In some cases it's probably more beneficial to run a top mount, but with the kind of setup that the Starlet runs it isn't a massive amount more pipe work, I would get a picture up but I don't think I have any clear shots my engine bay at the moment. And on that basis I think it's more beneficial for the extra cooling provided at the detriment of response.

Many of the jap boys replace the standard top mount with a deeper top mount from an RX7 - common mod.

IInterpid, I can't see the figures on your graph but agree that they can be setup for a nice linear response. Mine had 238bhp and drove a bit like an NA, that's the way I like it.

[F1GTRUeno]

I'd love an absolutely standard one. Wouldn't be very quick but would be rare as anything.

One of the Gran Turismo generation and all the better for it.

Love 90's Jap cars.

[D_G]

muthaducka said:

IInterpid, I can't see the figures on your graph but agree that they can be setup for a nice linear response. Mine had 238bhp and drove a bit like an NA, that's the way I like it.

That's not bad, tuned one up many moons ago to 235bhp on a standard turbo albeit with a shot of NOS! Then fitted an LSD to try to make it driveable......

[Mr Sparkle]

intrepid44 said:

Aren't those line supposed to cross?

[intrepid44]

Mr Sparkle said:

intrepid44 said:

Aren't those line supposed to cross?

They do cross at 7XXX RPM, I'm guesing you're under the impression that they should cros at 5252, that's only the case if the BHP and the LbFt measurements are running to the same scale. Otherwise it would do. You have to remember that Power is Torque * Angular Velocity, and that's where that constant comes from.

[intrepid44]

muthaducka said:

Many of the jap boys replace the standard top mount with a deeper top mount from an RX7 - common mod.

IInterpid, I can't see the figures on your graph but agree that they can be setup for a nice linear response. Mine had 238bhp and drove a bit like an NA, that's the way I like it.

Ah, yes. I've seen that quite a bit. I still don't like the idea of top mounts personally, too much heat soak, not enough space for the air to move freely.

But maybe that's just me, very difficult to know for sure though, unless somebody's tried both on the same setup for some reason or another.

With my dyno plot, I was intending to only use 0.5ish bar, but the wastegate at about 6000 RPM became saturated and basically gradually rose to about 1 bar, and so it produced an unbelieveably linear power curve, with the AFR remaining pretty much perfect. Very, very suprised by it to be honest, but it works fine for me, obviously it could make more power quite easily, but in it's current format it's very driveable, and very controlable. So for now I'm happy with it, although I do have more parts to go on, just don't have the time.

[Mr Sparkle]

I see

[GlenMH]

Duplicate thread here: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...