Embarassingly basic question
Discussion
I have a Mk2 Focus, and I'm finally fitting winter tyres on steels today. I have a nice new trolley jack and axle stands, however on looking in the manual and under the car, I'm unsure if I've correctly identified the jacking points for the trolley jack. I've only ever used the small emergency jacks before (which slot in to obvious points), so it's all a bit new to me. The first pic is drivers side front, the second is driver's side rear.
In this pic I'm guessing the steel beam with the holes in is the correct point:
In the next pic I'm guessing in the centre left of the pic (avoiding the plastic trim on the far left) between the two small holes:
Apologies for being an over-cautious numpty
In this pic I'm guessing the steel beam with the holes in is the correct point:
In the next pic I'm guessing in the centre left of the pic (avoiding the plastic trim on the far left) between the two small holes:
Apologies for being an over-cautious numpty
I agree with Black Flash here - beams like that are sometimes surprisingly weak when you put lateral load on them. Nothing quite like getting the jack up to a strong-looking chassis member, giving it a big old pump, and discovering that while the jack and the beam go up, the car does not 
Going for points where substantial assemblies are attached to the chassis is usually your best bet, but if you see any steel lips or rails inboard of the front or rear wheels, these are likely to be your strong points for normal jacking.
Caution is definitely worthwhile here, so well done
Going for points where substantial assemblies are attached to the chassis is usually your best bet, but if you see any steel lips or rails inboard of the front or rear wheels, these are likely to be your strong points for normal jacking.
Caution is definitely worthwhile here, so well done
The Crack Fox said:
Stick something substantial under the car whilst it is jacked up (like the spare wheel) in case it falls off 
I went with putting an 8 inch length of wood beneath the head of the jack, then jacked up next to where the stand issue one slots in. Axle stand in place where the issued jack goes (still supported by length of wood) and all seems fine. The new wheel fits, so MyTyres haven't screwed up my order. Next issue is confirming the torque setting for tightening the bolts with my new torque wrench. Again, a new experience for me, as in my previous experience of having to change tyres, it was always 'do it up as tight as it will go...'
JulianHJ said:
I went with putting an 8 inch length of wood beneath the head of the jack, then jacked up next to where the stand issue one slots in. Axle stand in place where the issued jack goes (still supported by length of wood) and all seems fine.
I'm not familiar with Focus, but usually the standard jack locates around a seam - wood isn't ideal as a buffer here as it can split.If you're just changing the wheels, it's usual to just use a jack, but don't put any part of your body under the car. Especially don't put your hands under the lifted wheel. Alloys can corrode themselves into place so the axle stands will be useful in that case.
JulianHJ said:
The new wheel fits, so MyTyres haven't screwed up my order.
You may have gone past the point already but if you're using the existing wheel bolts make sure they don't stick through the back of the steel wheel any further than they do through the alloy. JulianHJ said:
Next issue is confirming the torque setting for tightening the bolts with my new torque wrench. Again, a new experience for me, as in my previous experience of having to change tyres, it was always 'do it up as tight as it will go...'
Should be in the handbook if you've got one. Might be different figures for alloy and steel. Be aware that if you're using a standard size torque wrench, the length of it means it's surprisingly easy to tighten the bolts to the required figure (so if you've been used to doing them as tight as possible, you may think they're not tight enough). Undo them half a turn after 25 miles and re-torque them.Deva Link, quality info, thanks.
In relation to bolts, I'm using the same ones, but the alloys sat flush with the washers/cups (not sure of the correct term) that are fixed to the bolts:
With the steels, I've tightened the bolts to 110NM (which did seem very easy), as that is what was written on an order sheet when I had my summer tyres replaced last week at Costco (alloys fitted at the time of course). A bit of Googling suggests this figure is correct, although 90NM is also mentioned. The steel wheel is very securely held in place.
I can't find torque settings anywhere in the manual, but I have just seen a diagram illustrating shorter bolts without the large tapered cup/washer. I think I might stick the alloy back on and head to the local dealer for some of the correct bolts!
In relation to bolts, I'm using the same ones, but the alloys sat flush with the washers/cups (not sure of the correct term) that are fixed to the bolts:
With the steels, I've tightened the bolts to 110NM (which did seem very easy), as that is what was written on an order sheet when I had my summer tyres replaced last week at Costco (alloys fitted at the time of course). A bit of Googling suggests this figure is correct, although 90NM is also mentioned. The steel wheel is very securely held in place.
I can't find torque settings anywhere in the manual, but I have just seen a diagram illustrating shorter bolts without the large tapered cup/washer. I think I might stick the alloy back on and head to the local dealer for some of the correct bolts!
Edited by JulianHJ on Wednesday 23 November 12:32
I thought it was fine to use this type of nut on steel wheels but not the steel wheel specific nuts of alloys.
If you look at a space save spare it'll normally be a steel with the same set up as the steels you have on now. I'd get a second opinion from another dealer or Ford UK before splashing out on new nuts.
If you look at a space save spare it'll normally be a steel with the same set up as the steels you have on now. I'd get a second opinion from another dealer or Ford UK before splashing out on new nuts.
JulianHJ said:
Next issue is confirming the torque setting for tightening the bolts with my new torque wrench. Again, a new experience for me, as in my previous experience of having to change tyres, it was always 'do it up as tight as it will go...'
130Nm IIRC for a Mk 2 Focus. It should be in the manual.Bugeyeandy said:
I thought it was fine to use this type of nut on steel wheels but not the steel wheel specific nuts of alloys.
If you look at a space save spare it'll normally be a steel with the same set up as the steels you have on now. I'd get a second opinion from another dealer or Ford UK before splashing out on new nuts.
A poster on a different forum said that they'd had their MyTyres steels package fitted to their Focus by a MyTyres agent, who said alloy-spec nuts were fine for steels. The manual states steel-spec nuts can't be used with alloys, but no mention of issues the other way around, other than saying the space saver should only be used with alloy nuts for a maximum of two weeks.If you look at a space save spare it'll normally be a steel with the same set up as the steels you have on now. I'd get a second opinion from another dealer or Ford UK before splashing out on new nuts.
Just off to my local breakers, who say they've got them in stock (cheers for the suggestion!)
JulianHJ said:
Nice one, thank you. No mention of it in my manual - where did you get that figure from?
I'm surprised - I'm relatively certain it was in the manual, however it was over a year ago so I could be wrong. Unfortunately I cycled to work, otherwise I'd go and have another look. I should point out that figure is for steel wheels.130Nm is correct, including alloys. That's from the spannering bible of fuzzy BW photos, Haynes.
Also pretty sure the nuts are fine for steel wheels, I've not seen any advice against it and used them on the steel spare without trouble. Winters are on alloys though, so I've not run them longterm.
Also pretty sure the nuts are fine for steel wheels, I've not seen any advice against it and used them on the steel spare without trouble. Winters are on alloys though, so I've not run them longterm.
When I bought some 2nd hand alloys a while back I was quite surprised to find they had different style bolts.
Generally speaking – I think steels use a rounded bottom nut. (sometimes called acorn)
Some alloys use rounded bottom and some use flat with a washer.
Although, I'm sure there are exceptions.
There's a place in Birmingham called Wheelmania.
It's a bit bling – but that chap I spoke to there really knew his stuff.
I just mentioned the type of car I had and he knew immediately the two possible type of bolt it could be and sorted me out a full set for less than I could get them on ebay.
(24 nuts in total.)
I'd suggest you give them a call.
They might even do mail order on the nuts if you need new ones.
Generally speaking – I think steels use a rounded bottom nut. (sometimes called acorn)
Some alloys use rounded bottom and some use flat with a washer.
Although, I'm sure there are exceptions.
There's a place in Birmingham called Wheelmania.
It's a bit bling – but that chap I spoke to there really knew his stuff.
I just mentioned the type of car I had and he knew immediately the two possible type of bolt it could be and sorted me out a full set for less than I could get them on ebay.
(24 nuts in total.)
I'd suggest you give them a call.
They might even do mail order on the nuts if you need new ones.
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