Brake vibration after fitting new discs- am I being blagged?
Discussion
I bought some new 'performance' brake discs from a company that shares their initials with, ooh let's say, 'Eastleigh Borough Council.'
After working well for a couple of months, gradually along has come more and more brake judder, to the extent that now coming off motorway slip roads braking causes the steering wheel to judder very badly indeed. Highly unpleasant.
I sent an email to the supplier - a third party UK based reseller who specialise in motorsport parts.
Here is the reply. Am I being blagged???
I would value your comments please as I fear this may 'go big'.
After working well for a couple of months, gradually along has come more and more brake judder, to the extent that now coming off motorway slip roads braking causes the steering wheel to judder very badly indeed. Highly unpleasant.
I sent an email to the supplier - a third party UK based reseller who specialise in motorsport parts.
Here is the reply. Am I being blagged???
The Motorsport seller said:
Hi,
I have just spoken with Eastleigh Borough Council and they advise they do not cover “Warped” discs under their warranty. They have asked me to point you to 2 links on their website for more information regarding brake judder and how to combat this:
Linky 1
Linky 2
They also advise that another common cause of brake judder (more so if it builds up over time) is caused by a build up of brake material on the face of the disc. This will also be cured by having the disc skimmed by a pro lathe.
The Technical team are happy for you to call them and discuss this, and they can explain it better for you. Ask for either Bart or Bob. Eastleigh Borough Council Technical Dept = 016904 583344
So basically it's my fault and I have to pay to get them fixed...I have just spoken with Eastleigh Borough Council and they advise they do not cover “Warped” discs under their warranty. They have asked me to point you to 2 links on their website for more information regarding brake judder and how to combat this:
Linky 1
Linky 2
They also advise that another common cause of brake judder (more so if it builds up over time) is caused by a build up of brake material on the face of the disc. This will also be cured by having the disc skimmed by a pro lathe.
The Technical team are happy for you to call them and discuss this, and they can explain it better for you. Ask for either Bart or Bob. Eastleigh Borough Council Technical Dept = 016904 583344
I would value your comments please as I fear this may 'go big'.
Done fewer than 3,000 miles since fitting, I don't drive it much as I work so close to home.
Fitting was done at a VAG specialist, who is also a friend, called IGS - funnily enough in Eastleigh...
And at the same time they fitted a new front ARB and bushes, new genuine part shocks and springs all round bought from Skoda.
Oh and new pads and brakelines all round too.
And they cleaned the hub with a wire brush drill attachment and put copaslip on the hub.
There's definitely been to kerb / pothole interfaces since.
Hence my slight annoyance at the immediate accusation about the problem being me or the car.
What should I do next do you reckon?
Fitting was done at a VAG specialist, who is also a friend, called IGS - funnily enough in Eastleigh...
And at the same time they fitted a new front ARB and bushes, new genuine part shocks and springs all round bought from Skoda.
Oh and new pads and brakelines all round too.
And they cleaned the hub with a wire brush drill attachment and put copaslip on the hub.
There's definitely been to kerb / pothole interfaces since.
Hence my slight annoyance at the immediate accusation about the problem being me or the car.
What should I do next do you reckon?
Ray Luxury-Yacht said:
And they cleaned the hub with a wire brush drill attachment and put copaslip on the hub.
Could be wrong, but I think that's your problem. The smallest inconstistancy from true will cause the disc to warp and I don't see how, once you've cleaned back to the properly-flat-and-true hub face, you can hope to retain that flatness/trueness with a layer of grease added.Or you've been standing on them like a Driving God
I ended up with Zimmermans on my E36, but I was killing everything else with trackdays I learnt about the TOTAL cleaning of the mounting face when the first set of discs I fitted did exactly what you say...
Heavy braking to a stop and then leaving the brakes applied can and do warp dics due to the clamping effect of the pads and the way the discs cool unevenly. Depending on the quality of the materials some warp easier than others.Where possible i always release the brake pedal to dissapate the heat then re-apply.
defblade said:
Could be wrong, but I think that's your problem. The smallest inconstistancy from true will cause the disc to warp and I don't see how, once you've cleaned back to the properly-flat-and-true hub face, you can hope to retain that flatness/trueness with a layer of grease added.
Or you've been standing on them like a Driving God
I ended up with Zimmermans on my E36, but I was killing everything else with trackdays I learnt about the TOTAL cleaning of the mounting face when the first set of discs I fitted did exactly what you say...
I thought the same thing, personally i wouldnt grease the hub/disc interface.Or you've been standing on them like a Driving God
I ended up with Zimmermans on my E36, but I was killing everything else with trackdays I learnt about the TOTAL cleaning of the mounting face when the first set of discs I fitted did exactly what you say...
Op i dont suppose you have new tyres fitted lately?, i had a car where over tightened wheel nuts warped the discs.
I'd also agree that copper grease is not good for using between the disc and hub. Personally, I just wipe engine oil over the mating faces before fitting new discs. The copper particles will break down pretty quickly, changing the way the disc and hub sit.
One of the first things I was taught as a spotty teanager repairing cars, was never use copper slip on anything thats torqued up.
One of the first things I was taught as a spotty teanager repairing cars, was never use copper slip on anything thats torqued up.
May not be your problem!!!
But I've had similar which was caused by the master cylinder seals letting in air.
New disks and then skimming and then new disks again before a mechanic sussed it!
Also had same on a different car that was cured by a complete brake bleed with new fluid.
So basically I suspect air in the system or old fluid caused a pulsing of the hydraulic pressure in the dual circuit(?), this set up some form of oscillation the fekked the discs.
But to be honest I'm not at all sure what what causing it, just that it was not the disk themselves causing it but suffering for it.
But I've had similar which was caused by the master cylinder seals letting in air.
New disks and then skimming and then new disks again before a mechanic sussed it!
Also had same on a different car that was cured by a complete brake bleed with new fluid.
So basically I suspect air in the system or old fluid caused a pulsing of the hydraulic pressure in the dual circuit(?), this set up some form of oscillation the fekked the discs.
But to be honest I'm not at all sure what what causing it, just that it was not the disk themselves causing it but suffering for it.
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