My battery keeps running out.
Discussion
After 2 or 3 days of not using the Allegro it always needs a jump start. This is infuriating as the weather is getting worse and I can't be bothered standing in the rain arsing about with jump leads and manoeuvring my other car into position.
This isn't a case of the battery just being crap as I have bought another battery and it is still doing it.
With cold weather effecting lead ion batteries like it does would detaching the battery (it has a quick cut-off switch) save the battery do you think?
The only reason why I am asking is that I am thinking of taking it to uni in a couple of days so I don't have enough time to experiment. I obviously don't want to to drive up to Leicester and then not be able to start my car.
Cheers,
Bob
This isn't a case of the battery just being crap as I have bought another battery and it is still doing it.
With cold weather effecting lead ion batteries like it does would detaching the battery (it has a quick cut-off switch) save the battery do you think?
The only reason why I am asking is that I am thinking of taking it to uni in a couple of days so I don't have enough time to experiment. I obviously don't want to to drive up to Leicester and then not be able to start my car.
Cheers,
Bob
You have something draining your battery.
You can remove the fuses one by one with a meter on the battery and see if the reading changes, or you could just remove the fuses one by one and disconnect and reconnect the earth lead, there will be a spark present while the circuit with the drin is still present, once this fuse gets removed the spark should stop. When you know the fuse you know which circuits to inspect for a short.
It's not a perfect method but it should work, it certainly made finding out why a Volve 740 was blowing the interior light fuse whenever you opened the door interesting. Turned out to be a bare wire hitting the metalwork for the interior handle and causing a dead short!
You can remove the fuses one by one with a meter on the battery and see if the reading changes, or you could just remove the fuses one by one and disconnect and reconnect the earth lead, there will be a spark present while the circuit with the drin is still present, once this fuse gets removed the spark should stop. When you know the fuse you know which circuits to inspect for a short.
It's not a perfect method but it should work, it certainly made finding out why a Volve 740 was blowing the interior light fuse whenever you opened the door interesting. Turned out to be a bare wire hitting the metalwork for the interior handle and causing a dead short!
As above, there is a power drain somewhere on the car...
Has the wiring been modified in anyway - dodgy aftermarket alarm or ICE install? These are usually the first places to look...
In the meantime, get yourself one of those booster battery packs - had mine for years and was invaluable for starting the Land Rover if it hadn't been used for a few weeks.
Has the wiring been modified in anyway - dodgy aftermarket alarm or ICE install? These are usually the first places to look...
In the meantime, get yourself one of those booster battery packs - had mine for years and was invaluable for starting the Land Rover if it hadn't been used for a few weeks.
You can buy something from maplin for about £10 which plugs into the slot for fuses, this might help you gauge what area is drawing the current.
If it doesn't work you can always take it back.
Batteries dont like being discharged fully, so if it has been discharged a few times it may have a lowered capacity to before.
If it doesn't work you can always take it back.
Batteries dont like being discharged fully, so if it has been discharged a few times it may have a lowered capacity to before.
Check the earth strap to the engine is intact too.
I assume the non-start is definitely battery and not coil or leads.
If this car has an electric fuel pump (as my older A40 did), it's also worth putting a good earth strap on that to replace the thin wire.
I assume the non-start is definitely battery and not coil or leads.
If this car has an electric fuel pump (as my older A40 did), it's also worth putting a good earth strap on that to replace the thin wire.
Edited by LuS1fer on Thursday 5th January 12:59
Don't discount that the new battery might be faulty.
Have you fully recharged the battery with a battery charger? Don't expect the alternator to recharge a flat battery, they're intended to power the vehicle electrics & keep the battery topped up. jump starting then a short drive isn't going to do much.
From another site:
"To be more specific.....First if you charge your battery and let it sit for 24 hrs then if you dont have 12.5v then the batterys is suspect.
Readings at idle and with lights etc on are meaningless ....go for a short drive and then without stopping the engine read the battery volts at about 2000 rpm ./ should settle to 14.4v . If below this then the voltage regulator is faulty."
You may have a drain on the battery. Disconnect the battery earth lead then connect a voltmeter set to amps between the lead & the battery terminal. The reading should be negligible.
This link - on a P38 Range Rover which have a known alarm issue causing battery drain - shows how to do it:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrica...
Have you fully recharged the battery with a battery charger? Don't expect the alternator to recharge a flat battery, they're intended to power the vehicle electrics & keep the battery topped up. jump starting then a short drive isn't going to do much.
From another site:
"To be more specific.....First if you charge your battery and let it sit for 24 hrs then if you dont have 12.5v then the batterys is suspect.
Readings at idle and with lights etc on are meaningless ....go for a short drive and then without stopping the engine read the battery volts at about 2000 rpm ./ should settle to 14.4v . If below this then the voltage regulator is faulty."
You may have a drain on the battery. Disconnect the battery earth lead then connect a voltmeter set to amps between the lead & the battery terminal. The reading should be negligible.
This link - on a P38 Range Rover which have a known alarm issue causing battery drain - shows how to do it:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrica...
lankybob said:
Thanks for your replies chaps. I will borrow a voltmeter from somebody and have a look.
Liquid Knight, that is almost certainly what's happening!
You need an ammeter for current drains. Not a voltmeter. (though handily most multimeters have both Liquid Knight, that is almost certainly what's happening!
)Honestly, some of the "advice" above is terrible...
Testing Battery and charge rate
Set to Voltmeter
Red on +ve terminal of battery
Black on -Ve of battery
SHOULD be 12V ish 11.5 at lowest
Start car. Same as above.
SHOULD be 14.4 but as it's an allegro expect nearer 13V Basically has to be above what it is when not running.
If you get those results move on to AMMETER (you may need to move the probes on the front of the meter) Set to 10A
Take off -Ve battery lead.
Put black lead from meter on battery -Ve TERMINAL
Put red lead on the LOOSE battery LEAD
Shut all doors
See what the reading is.
Should be 0.05A or thereabouts. Maybe 0.10 at absolute max.
If it is, it's all good.
If it isn't the 1 by 1 pull the fuses out (depending on where the fuse board is you may need to open the door. Make sure you press/close the pin swich for the interior light)
When you pull a fuse and it drops to the low level. That's your problem. Find out what it is. Then remove what ever it controls. If it's a light or somesuch. Trace the wiring accordingly to the item.
Edited by Rich_W on Thursday 5th January 17:03
Rich_W said:
You need an ammeter for current drains. Not a voltmeter. (though handily most multimeters have both )
Honestly, some of the "advice" above is terrible...
Testing Battery and charge rate
Set to Voltmeter
Red on +ve terminal of battery
Black on -Ve of battery
SHOULD be 12V ish 11.5 at lowest
Start car. Same as above.
SHOULD be 14.4 but as it's an allegro expect nearer 13V Basically has to be above what it is when not running.
If you get those results move on to AMMETER (you may need to move the probes on the front of the meter) Set to 10A
Take off -Ve battery lead.
Put black lead from meter on battery -Ve TERMINAL
Put red lead on the LOOSE battery LEAD
Shut all doors
See what the reading is.
Should be 0.05A or thereabouts. Maybe 0.10 at absolute max.
If it is, it's all good.
If it isn't the 1 by 1 pull the fuses out (depending on where the fuse board is you may need to open the door. Make sure you press/close the pin swich for the interior light)
When you pull a fuse and it drops to the low level. That's your problem. Find out what it is. Then remove what ever it controls. If it's a light or somesuch. Trace the wiring accordingly to the item.
Thank you. I shall do this when I can get hold of a multimeter. )Honestly, some of the "advice" above is terrible...
Testing Battery and charge rate
Set to Voltmeter
Red on +ve terminal of battery
Black on -Ve of battery
SHOULD be 12V ish 11.5 at lowest
Start car. Same as above.
SHOULD be 14.4 but as it's an allegro expect nearer 13V Basically has to be above what it is when not running.
If you get those results move on to AMMETER (you may need to move the probes on the front of the meter) Set to 10A
Take off -Ve battery lead.
Put black lead from meter on battery -Ve TERMINAL
Put red lead on the LOOSE battery LEAD
Shut all doors
See what the reading is.
Should be 0.05A or thereabouts. Maybe 0.10 at absolute max.
If it is, it's all good.
If it isn't the 1 by 1 pull the fuses out (depending on where the fuse board is you may need to open the door. Make sure you press/close the pin swich for the interior light)
When you pull a fuse and it drops to the low level. That's your problem. Find out what it is. Then remove what ever it controls. If it's a light or somesuch. Trace the wiring accordingly to the item.
Edited by Rich_W on Thursday 5th January 17:03
Rich_W said:
You need an ammeter for current drains. Not a voltmeter. (though handily most multimeters have both )
Thats what I meant! )
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