The Best ///M/Barge/General Rant/Look at this/O/T(Vol XVIII)
Discussion
I've owned a 318i manual cab and a 320i saloon.
I'd agree 325i is the way to go. But below that I think a manual 318i feels more sprightly than an auto 320i. The smaller 6-pot sounds nicer, but the auto box really saps power.
Parts availability from BMW is pretty good, so don't discount a car because of unsightly bumper scuffs or whatever - most of the bits are readily available.
My 318i cab used to make a thumping / knocking sound under power, which I seem to remember was a rubber bush in the drive train - but this was 15 years ago, so recollections are hazy.
The seals around the boot and rear lights often fail leading to a soggy boot carpet and damp-smelling boot. Again, parts are available to replace.
And roof leaks are often down to the seal rather than the roof itself.
A late M-tec 325i with manual box and LSD would be a peach.
I'd agree 325i is the way to go. But below that I think a manual 318i feels more sprightly than an auto 320i. The smaller 6-pot sounds nicer, but the auto box really saps power.
Parts availability from BMW is pretty good, so don't discount a car because of unsightly bumper scuffs or whatever - most of the bits are readily available.
My 318i cab used to make a thumping / knocking sound under power, which I seem to remember was a rubber bush in the drive train - but this was 15 years ago, so recollections are hazy.
The seals around the boot and rear lights often fail leading to a soggy boot carpet and damp-smelling boot. Again, parts are available to replace.
And roof leaks are often down to the seal rather than the roof itself.
A late M-tec 325i with manual box and LSD would be a peach.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
A nice 318i might be just the job then. More car for your (her) money.What's the budget?
This looks very pretty: http://www.fast-classics.com/cars/bmw-318i-design-...
Gruber said:
A nice 318i might be just the job then. More car for your (her) money.
What's the budget?
This looks very pretty: http://www.fast-classics.com/cars/bmw-318i-design-...
Wow, looks like amazing condition and that is the quintessential looking E30 cab for me. I wouldn't place much value on an E30 cab being brisk so a 318 would be fine for me. As long as the driver is comfortable that winding it up to the redline won't do any harm, 0-60 in 10 or 11 secs is reasonable performance.What's the budget?
This looks very pretty: http://www.fast-classics.com/cars/bmw-318i-design-...
contango said:
Other than rust, I would think an important factor in looking for an E30 cab would be budget.
With cars of this age you could pay <£5k to >£15k, depending on condition & spec.
At some point E36 or E46 cabs start to look like good value, even the M3 variant?
Mr Moose - a very valid point -an E30 Cabrio will always have a very special place in my heart. A 1992 M-Tech 2 320i LHD Cabriolet was the first proper car that I bought with my first proper bonus back in 2001. I paid £4000 for it then. I seriously doubt that you would buy the same car for less than £6k. Possibly more - it was Diamant Schwartz with black heated leather, electric roof, factory M-Tech body kit, suspension and LSD, 16" BBS split rims and only one owner FBMWSH.With cars of this age you could pay <£5k to >£15k, depending on condition & spec.
At some point E36 or E46 cabs start to look like good value, even the M3 variant?
Now then, £7k buys a decent E46 M3 convert, which is streets ahead of the E30... Just saying...
Much much bigger car though. IME even a 190 feels like a barge to park for the fairer sex compared to the small hatchbacks they might be used to. The E30 is a nice small size in comparison and much more a nice retro thing compared to E36/46.
The E36 will have its day quite soon though. I adored them when they came out, it was such a radical change and so fresh when it came out. People have generally forgotten about that because of their ubiquity and that every mid-size exec car has followed its basic shape ever since.
The E36 will have its day quite soon though. I adored them when they came out, it was such a radical change and so fresh when it came out. People have generally forgotten about that because of their ubiquity and that every mid-size exec car has followed its basic shape ever since.
braddo said:
Much much bigger car though. IME even a 190 feels like a barge to park for the fairer sex compared to the small hatchbacks they might be used to. The E30 is a nice small size in comparison and much more a nice retro thing compared to E36/46.
The E36 will have its day quite soon though. I adored them when they came out, it was such a radical change and so fresh when it came out. People have generally forgotten about that because of their ubiquity and that every mid-size exec car has followed its basic shape ever since.
If size is an important consideration, quite a few E88s with 4-pot or 6-pot well under 10k - same dimensions as an E30. Nice and tight to steer, albeit not as retro as an E30The E36 will have its day quite soon though. I adored them when they came out, it was such a radical change and so fresh when it came out. People have generally forgotten about that because of their ubiquity and that every mid-size exec car has followed its basic shape ever since.
OR
this for 6.5k
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C778002
Edited by s m on Saturday 15th July 21:34
anonymous said:
[redacted]
I've bought and sold enough cars through them over the years to have no problem recommending them. Lucas owns the show and is a very good guy. Proper car enthusiasts. And it's worth a visit just to have a nosy around the showroom. Across their four brands (Octane, Millennium, etc) there's always plenty of tasty stuff to drool over. Oh bugger
All this e30 chat has driven me to the classifieds and I've found this for sale just down the road. Ooooooh...
https://www.autoscout24.ch/de/d/bmw-318-limousine-...
All this e30 chat has driven me to the classifieds and I've found this for sale just down the road. Ooooooh...
https://www.autoscout24.ch/de/d/bmw-318-limousine-...
Gruber said:
Oh bugger
All this e30 chat has driven me to the classifieds and I've found this for sale just down the road. Ooooooh...
https://www.autoscout24.ch/de/d/bmw-318-limousine-...
No sheet. Now I want that blue 318 convertible.All this e30 chat has driven me to the classifieds and I've found this for sale just down the road. Ooooooh...
https://www.autoscout24.ch/de/d/bmw-318-limousine-...
Interested in a £9k car near Glasgow (I'm in Coventry). Given it's a 10-hour round trip, and I am no mechanical genius, the £73 https://www.clickmechanic.com/ quote for a pre-purchase inspection seems a no-brainer. But I've never used them, and I guess it's only as good as the guy they sub the work out to?
I don't suppose anyone has used them before?
They say they cover 118 areas:
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist *
Front suspension and steering
1 Engine underside leakage
2 Steering joints/ball joints
3 Steering rack
4 Chassis members
5 Power steering
6 Wheels hubs/bearings
7 Road springs
8 Pipes/hoses
9 Shock absorbers (conditions/leaks)
10 Gaiters/boots
11 Sub frames/mountings
12 Suspension arms/mountings
13 Tie bars/anti roll bars
14 Corrosion - floor/chassis
Wheels and tyres
15 Front right tyre
16 Front left tyre
17 Rear right tyre
18 Rear left tyre
19 Spare wheel condition
20 Alloy wheel condition (if applicable)
Electrical/controls
21 Rear lights/number plate lights
22 Stop lights
23 Starting system/ignition lock
24 Battery voltage
25 Battery charging system
26 Headlights
27 Side light/running lights
28 Indicators/hazard lights
29 Reverse/fog lights
30 Auxiliary lights
31 Panel lights
32 Switches/controls
33 Instrument/controls function
34 Horn
35 Door locking
36 Window/sunroof operation
37 Wipers/washers
38 Headlamp washer/headlamp wiper
Body exterior
39 Glass
40 Door locks/operation
41 Fuel filler cover/petrol cap
42 Body damage
43 Past repair evident
44 Corrosion
Clutch/transmission - manual
45 Fluid/oil leaks
46 Hydraulic system
47 Linkage (wear)
48 Casings
49 Mountings
50 Drive shaft assemblies
51 Universal/sliding joints (if visible)
52 Slave cylinder gaiter/boot
53 Propshaft(s)
54 Bearings/supports
Engine compartment
55 Coolant/antifreeze level
56 Coolant leak
57 Radiator/cap
58 Hoses/pipes
59 Drive belts (visible damage)
60 Power steering fluid level
61 Clutch fluid level
62 Brake fluid level
63 Engine oil level
64 External leaks (engine)
65 Engine mountings
66 Cold starting
67 Fast idle (cold)
68 Noise level (cold)
69 Excess fumes/smoke
Rear suspension and underframe
70 Road springs
71 Anti-roll bar
72 Shock absorbers
73 Suspension arms/fixings
74 Location rod/fixings
75 Bumpers stops/gaiters
76 Wheel hubs/bearings
77 Pipes/hoses
78 Sub frames/mountings
79 Chassis members
80 Corrosion - floor/chassis
Interior luggage compartment
81 Seat belts
82 Seat mechanism (driver's seat)
83 Mirror condition - internal
84 Boot/tailgate lock
Fuel system
85 Tank fixings
86 Fuel lines
87 Breather pipes
88 Evidence of leaks
Exhaust system
89 Operation
90 System condition
Brakes
91 Master cylinder security (if accessible)
92 Fluid leaks
93 Servo/power system
94 Flexible hoses
95 Pipes/connections
96 Discs/pads (visual check)
97 Hand/parking brake operation/adjustments
98 Hand/parking brake linkage
Road test
99 Overheating evidence
100 Gearbox operation/noise level
101 Accelerator pedal/cable adjustment (unless digital)
102 Brake servo/power system
103 Brake pedal/linkage
104 Final drive operation/noise level
105 Engine - performance
106 Engine - noise
107 Excess smoke
108 Clutch pedal/cable adjustment
109 Clutch operation
110 Instrument/controls function
111 General steering/handling
112 Footbrake operation
113 Hand/parking brake operation
114 Suspension noise
115 Turbo/super charger operation
116 Road holding/stability
117 Warning lights
118 Cruise control
I don't suppose anyone has used them before?
They say they cover 118 areas:
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist *
Front suspension and steering
1 Engine underside leakage
2 Steering joints/ball joints
3 Steering rack
4 Chassis members
5 Power steering
6 Wheels hubs/bearings
7 Road springs
8 Pipes/hoses
9 Shock absorbers (conditions/leaks)
10 Gaiters/boots
11 Sub frames/mountings
12 Suspension arms/mountings
13 Tie bars/anti roll bars
14 Corrosion - floor/chassis
Wheels and tyres
15 Front right tyre
16 Front left tyre
17 Rear right tyre
18 Rear left tyre
19 Spare wheel condition
20 Alloy wheel condition (if applicable)
Electrical/controls
21 Rear lights/number plate lights
22 Stop lights
23 Starting system/ignition lock
24 Battery voltage
25 Battery charging system
26 Headlights
27 Side light/running lights
28 Indicators/hazard lights
29 Reverse/fog lights
30 Auxiliary lights
31 Panel lights
32 Switches/controls
33 Instrument/controls function
34 Horn
35 Door locking
36 Window/sunroof operation
37 Wipers/washers
38 Headlamp washer/headlamp wiper
Body exterior
39 Glass
40 Door locks/operation
41 Fuel filler cover/petrol cap
42 Body damage
43 Past repair evident
44 Corrosion
Clutch/transmission - manual
45 Fluid/oil leaks
46 Hydraulic system
47 Linkage (wear)
48 Casings
49 Mountings
50 Drive shaft assemblies
51 Universal/sliding joints (if visible)
52 Slave cylinder gaiter/boot
53 Propshaft(s)
54 Bearings/supports
Engine compartment
55 Coolant/antifreeze level
56 Coolant leak
57 Radiator/cap
58 Hoses/pipes
59 Drive belts (visible damage)
60 Power steering fluid level
61 Clutch fluid level
62 Brake fluid level
63 Engine oil level
64 External leaks (engine)
65 Engine mountings
66 Cold starting
67 Fast idle (cold)
68 Noise level (cold)
69 Excess fumes/smoke
Rear suspension and underframe
70 Road springs
71 Anti-roll bar
72 Shock absorbers
73 Suspension arms/fixings
74 Location rod/fixings
75 Bumpers stops/gaiters
76 Wheel hubs/bearings
77 Pipes/hoses
78 Sub frames/mountings
79 Chassis members
80 Corrosion - floor/chassis
Interior luggage compartment
81 Seat belts
82 Seat mechanism (driver's seat)
83 Mirror condition - internal
84 Boot/tailgate lock
Fuel system
85 Tank fixings
86 Fuel lines
87 Breather pipes
88 Evidence of leaks
Exhaust system
89 Operation
90 System condition
Brakes
91 Master cylinder security (if accessible)
92 Fluid leaks
93 Servo/power system
94 Flexible hoses
95 Pipes/connections
96 Discs/pads (visual check)
97 Hand/parking brake operation/adjustments
98 Hand/parking brake linkage
Road test
99 Overheating evidence
100 Gearbox operation/noise level
101 Accelerator pedal/cable adjustment (unless digital)
102 Brake servo/power system
103 Brake pedal/linkage
104 Final drive operation/noise level
105 Engine - performance
106 Engine - noise
107 Excess smoke
108 Clutch pedal/cable adjustment
109 Clutch operation
110 Instrument/controls function
111 General steering/handling
112 Footbrake operation
113 Hand/parking brake operation
114 Suspension noise
115 Turbo/super charger operation
116 Road holding/stability
117 Warning lights
118 Cruise control
bungle said:
Coupe.
The 08 black / red one you linked a few days back? Looks very smart.Personally, I think I'd go for that £73 inspection.
A couple of things to check, from memory - the rear springs have the same weakness as e46 M3s; the leather isn't the best quality, so it'd be good to check the seats haven't been too badly beaten over the years; and the nose is susceptible to parking knocks (it's not easy to judge where the front end is for close parking) and so worth checking the front bumper is properly aligned - although looks good from the photos.
If you can find a marque specialist nearby then great. But I don't think these are so complex a car that you'd really need more than a generalist assessment.
Thanks Gruber / Ferris. Good points made by both (especially the Z4 specific weak points). I haven't posted on z4-forum (though I've been reading it), so I will. You're right, it could have been a member's car. Yes, it's the 08 black/red one. Speaking to the dealer later, so will decide next steps from there.
I'm currently quite interested in E82 1-series coupés, particularly the 125i. Like this one.
Yes, I know the 135i is faster and not that much more, but ideally I'd want an N55 car with DCT and they're a) exceptionally rare and b) much more expensive. And I'd quite like to go back to an N/A motor after a few years of driving turbo fours.
Good? Bad? Anything to look out for? I know the 25i engine is simply a detuned versions of the N52B30 in everything else, so ~270bhp achievable with a map. What options or aftermarket goodies are worthwhile? CDV delete is an obvious one. Pre-facelift or post? Auto or manual? I quite like the idea of an auto but pretty sure that even the post-FL cars use the slightly ponderous ZF 6-speed torque converter box. Would an Alpina gearbox map fix this?
Yes, I know the 135i is faster and not that much more, but ideally I'd want an N55 car with DCT and they're a) exceptionally rare and b) much more expensive. And I'd quite like to go back to an N/A motor after a few years of driving turbo fours.
Good? Bad? Anything to look out for? I know the 25i engine is simply a detuned versions of the N52B30 in everything else, so ~270bhp achievable with a map. What options or aftermarket goodies are worthwhile? CDV delete is an obvious one. Pre-facelift or post? Auto or manual? I quite like the idea of an auto but pretty sure that even the post-FL cars use the slightly ponderous ZF 6-speed torque converter box. Would an Alpina gearbox map fix this?
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