The Best ///M/Barge/General Rant/Look at this/O/T(Vol XVIII)
Discussion
ManOpener said:
I'm currently quite interested in E82 1-series coupés, particularly the 125i. Like this one.
Yes, I know the 135i is faster and not that much more, but ideally I'd want an N55 car with DCT and they're a) exceptionally rare and b) much more expensive. And I'd quite like to go back to an N/A motor after a few years of driving turbo fours.
Good? Bad? Anything to look out for? I know the 25i engine is simply a detuned versions of the N52B30 in everything else, so ~270bhp achievable with a map. What options or aftermarket goodies are worthwhile? CDV delete is an obvious one. Pre-facelift or post? Auto or manual? I quite like the idea of an auto but pretty sure that even the post-FL cars use the slightly ponderous ZF 6-speed torque converter box. Would an Alpina gearbox map fix this?
Personally I would spend £1500 more to get an warantied AUC 135i (albeit slightly older and convertible) with idrive etc etc. Not DCT unfortunately.Yes, I know the 135i is faster and not that much more, but ideally I'd want an N55 car with DCT and they're a) exceptionally rare and b) much more expensive. And I'd quite like to go back to an N/A motor after a few years of driving turbo fours.
Good? Bad? Anything to look out for? I know the 25i engine is simply a detuned versions of the N52B30 in everything else, so ~270bhp achievable with a map. What options or aftermarket goodies are worthwhile? CDV delete is an obvious one. Pre-facelift or post? Auto or manual? I quite like the idea of an auto but pretty sure that even the post-FL cars use the slightly ponderous ZF 6-speed torque converter box. Would an Alpina gearbox map fix this?
http://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/1-Series/3.0-135i-M-Spor...
They do have a 7-speed DCT 335i coupe too though which I would probably ulimately choose for not an unreasonable amount extra IMO;
http://usedcars.bmw.co.uk/3-Series/3.0-335i-M-Spor...
Edited by p1stonhead on Tuesday 18th July 14:02
ManOpener said:
I'm currently quite interested in E82 1-series coupés, particularly the 125i. Like this one.
Yes, I know the 135i is faster and not that much more, but ideally I'd want an N55 car with DCT and they're a) exceptionally rare and b) much more expensive. And I'd quite like to go back to an N/A motor after a few years of driving turbo fours.
Good? Bad? Anything to look out for? I know the 25i engine is simply a detuned versions of the N52B30 in everything else, so ~270bhp achievable with a map. What options or aftermarket goodies are worthwhile? CDV delete is an obvious one. Pre-facelift or post? Auto or manual? I quite like the idea of an auto but pretty sure that even the post-FL cars use the slightly ponderous ZF 6-speed torque converter box. Would an Alpina gearbox map fix this?
I've been lucky enough to run one of these as a daily for the last 3 years and 50k miles, and it has been a brilliant little car. Only issue I've had with it was the previous owner who thought it needed aftermarket headlights and an HID kit, but once we sorted out the dodgy wiring and cheap resistors he used, it's been 100% fault-free. Maintenance in that time has been 2 services, oil, filters, plugs, pads and disks all round and 2 sets of tyres. Oh, and it went back to BMW to have the rear lights replaced. Yes, I know the 135i is faster and not that much more, but ideally I'd want an N55 car with DCT and they're a) exceptionally rare and b) much more expensive. And I'd quite like to go back to an N/A motor after a few years of driving turbo fours.
Good? Bad? Anything to look out for? I know the 25i engine is simply a detuned versions of the N52B30 in everything else, so ~270bhp achievable with a map. What options or aftermarket goodies are worthwhile? CDV delete is an obvious one. Pre-facelift or post? Auto or manual? I quite like the idea of an auto but pretty sure that even the post-FL cars use the slightly ponderous ZF 6-speed torque converter box. Would an Alpina gearbox map fix this?
A few random thoughts:
Tyres - if you take the plunge, first thing you should do is get rid of the RFT's, the really do ruin the ride and handling. B-Roads are an exercise in holding on, motorway joins are painful, and don't even think about cobbled streets. However, take these off and the car is transformed, and drives like a small BMW should. I went for the normal PS4's, had to chance tyre size slightly (went from 215/245 to 225/255 - now have better traction and the speedo is more accurate) but it is now a different car, and most of the dashboard rattles have mysteriously disappeared as well.
Remap - The engine is identical to that of the 130i, and a few places will happily remap it up to that power - Evolve and P-Torque in Wolverhampton are two names I've heard recommemded. Don't think it needs anything else, just the map.
Auto/Manual - I went for the Spanish option, and haven't regretted it in the slightest. Clutch can get a bit juddery when it's cold and damp, a few extra revs normally makes it behave. 1st to 2nd is the usual BMW story, but otherwise it's a nice box, very direct. The Auto is the old ZF6 unit, must admit I didn't even consider an Auto due to the type of car it is. Usual ZF6 caveats apply, so factor in 20% higher MPG and a slightly ponderous change.
Other Mods - there are a few out there to look at (BabyBMW is a good place to start) but all sorts is possible, from fitting M3 Lower Control Arms for better turn in, removing the CDV, fitting the larger brakes from the 130i (just needs the larger calpier carriers, then fit 130 Disks etc), BMW Performance Exhaust and Intake (what. a. noise), then it can be taken to Birds for various suspension/differential work. It has the potential to be turned into a proper little weapon - kind of what a 1M would have been like if they'd given the N52 to the M Division rather than the N54.
Pre/Post Facelift - not a concern with the 1 Series Coupé, as it was released after the hatch was facelifted.
Depreciation - Minimal. My 2008 example was 10.5K 3 years ago, and to replace it, it looks like I'd have to spend 9k. I'm hoping the fact that they are rare and their enthusiast following means this will continue, not that I want to sell.
MPG - Budget for 25MPG around town, up to 35-40 on a run depending how restrained you are, but fuel consumption drops off quite quickly above the French Motorway Speed Limit. However I do around 20K a year in mine, and fuel costs aren't too different to my old 330d (about 20 quid a week).
Reliability - mine has been no trouble at all, and this seems to be mirrored by other people who run them (pretty sure a 130i hatch was the most reliable long-term test car Auto Bild ever ran). Only real part to watch for is the Electric Water Pump which has a habit of letting go, and the VANOS Solenoids often get gummed up meaning it doesn't activate properly - symptoms will be a lack of smoothness below 3k revs and a bit more fuel use.
I considered the 135i, but wanted one of the last N/A Sixes before they all vanished, and was put off by tales of engine woe, so someone else may have to advise on the differences between 125i/135i. However I've only missed the extra grunt once, when I was trying to keep up with a freind's 430d GC.
Any other questions just yell.
barchetta_boy said:
Hang on, are you saying that a 125i and a 130i are both n/a, but have different power outputs due to a remap?
I thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Yes same engine I believe. 3 litre NAI thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
p1stonhead said:
barchetta_boy said:
Hang on, are you saying that a 125i and a 130i are both n/a, but have different power outputs due to a remap?
I thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Yes same engine I believe. 3 litre NAI thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Gruber said:
p1stonhead said:
barchetta_boy said:
Hang on, are you saying that a 125i and a 130i are both n/a, but have different power outputs due to a remap?
I thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Yes same engine I believe. 3 litre NAI thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Perhaps same reason they never did a 330ti - only a 325ti - wouldn't do to have your buy-in model faster than the non-M flagship
p1stonhead said:
barchetta_boy said:
Hang on, are you saying that a 125i and a 130i are both n/a, but have different power outputs due to a remap?
I thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Yes same engine I believe. 3 litre NAI thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Watch out for the DISA valves - I found my butterfly vane split in half and sitting in the inlet ports!
zippyonline said:
p1stonhead said:
barchetta_boy said:
Hang on, are you saying that a 125i and a 130i are both n/a, but have different power outputs due to a remap?
I thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Yes same engine I believe. 3 litre NAI thought the 130i was a 3 litre six or did that glorious convention due earlier than I thought?
Always had a soft spot for the 130i
Watch out for the DISA valves - I found my butterfly vane split in half and sitting in the inlet ports!
Which isn't confusing in the slightest.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
You're absolutely right that the older stuff needs a significant amount more commitment and forbearance if you're putting it into daily use. There will be niggles and you need a regular budget for ongoing maintenance. But I guess you trade that off against negligible depreciation. Pretty much every time I've owned something "old" as a daily, I've put up with it for a year and then thought "stuff it, I'm getting something new and reliable".
For what it's worth, I seem to remember the electric roof on these was regarded as a bugger even 15 years ago when I had mine. I found one with a manual roof, which though slightly less convenient was still pretty easy to operate and avoided the seemingly inevitable ball ache of niggles down the line.
As for the rear axle on the blue one, I wouldn't be surprised if they could get that sorted for you - either fully or partially at the seller's cost (assuming it is SOR).
It is very pretty.
p1stonhead said:
ATM said:
Thread Purchase
Shook hands on this but not picked it up yet
BMW 335i M Sport E91
2009
78,750 miles
£9,000
Bargain 335i tourings are rare! Especially with all the toys on them.Shook hands on this but not picked it up yet
BMW 335i M Sport E91
2009
78,750 miles
£9,000
ATM said:
p1stonhead said:
ATM said:
Thread Purchase
Shook hands on this but not picked it up yet
BMW 335i M Sport E91
2009
78,750 miles
£9,000
Bargain 335i tourings are rare! Especially with all the toys on them.Shook hands on this but not picked it up yet
BMW 335i M Sport E91
2009
78,750 miles
£9,000
Like it a lot, very discrete practical quick car, would suit me fine too.
graham22 said:
ATM said:
p1stonhead said:
ATM said:
Thread Purchase
Shook hands on this but not picked it up yet
BMW 335i M Sport E91
2009
78,750 miles
£9,000
Bargain 335i tourings are rare! Especially with all the toys on them.Shook hands on this but not picked it up yet
BMW 335i M Sport E91
2009
78,750 miles
£9,000
Like it a lot, very discrete practical quick car, would suit me fine too.
I like a good reminder as to why I don't tend to DIY.
Trying to get the top nuts off the Clio shock absorbers after getting the thing up on axle stands and the bloody allen key is bending and rounding the hex in the shock absorber rod before the nut is slackening.
All it takes is one tool (in this case an impact gun) and you're f
ked.
Trying to get the top nuts off the Clio shock absorbers after getting the thing up on axle stands and the bloody allen key is bending and rounding the hex in the shock absorber rod before the nut is slackening.
All it takes is one tool (in this case an impact gun) and you're f
ked.anonymous said:
[redacted]
A sensible conclusion I feel, though I'd have stuck with a 3'er. Running old cars as a daily, or a regular, requires commitment, per Grubes. I've bought cars which have been lightly used in the past. All that happens is that you get presented with all the age related work required plus things that are in need of doing through lack of use. In the case of the latter I'm ashamed to admit that cars I own have had issues due to lack of use as life got in the way of regular use.The bonus of older cars is the simplicity and spannerability on many jobs which is easy on the wallet and brings enjoyment and satisfaction, as long as it goes OK. Older cars are obviously better to drive. The 10-15 year old range seems to be a decent compromise.
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