RE: Toyota GT86/Subaru BRZ: PH Buying Guide

[JB!]

A few points to clear up, I've had mine since October, and done 5k, of which 2,500 has been touring miles...

1. The 2nd gear issue. Its a bd when cold. Looks to be clutch disengagement issues, not the clutch itself, the throw arm on the box has adjustment and lo and behold! Needs a tweak. doing mine soon and will update my build thread accordingly. The clutch drags basically. See:

http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/2478-gearbox-i...

2. Rods. Not very common, I know of 1 instance, I know alot more owners. If you chuck 10psi+ through a 12.5:1 compression engine, you are asking for trouble. There are a few write-ups here:

http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/fa20-carnage...

https://www.revvolution.com/blog/2014/03/tearing-d...

http://dsportmag.com/the-tech/tomei-powered-dissec...

3. The standard tyres. Hilarious for about the first 5 mins. Swap out ASAP and enjoy a fun and predictable chassis, I currently run Rainsports, loads of good options out there.

4. Aftermarket parts. Most of the cars have them, don't be put off by DIY installations, as they are easy to work on, look for quality components, and worst case see if you can get the car in the air at an MOT station.

5. Rust. Not so much the bodies, but certainly things like droplinks and toe arms are pretty siezed on most older cars now, so if you are into DIY, make sure you have replacements if removing, or access to heat or both.

[doogle83]

Klippie said:

I'am seriously looking at getting a new BRZ, I had a look at one the other week which was lovely.

Any good deals going on them at the moment.

Carwow offered me 4.2% off, not massive but not to be sniffed at.

[300bhp/ton]

doogle83 said:

Carwow offered me 4.2% off, not massive but not to be sniffed at.

Slightly off topic. But how does Carwow work? Is it just looking at current U.K. Stock from various dealers. Or does it allow you to actually order a car and have free reign of the options list?

[Sa Calobra]

JB! said:

A few points to clear up, I've had mine since October, and done 5k, of which 2,500 has been touring miles...

1. The 2nd gear issue. Its a bd when cold. Looks to be clutch disengagement issues, not the clutch itself, the throw arm on the box has adjustment and lo and behold! Needs a tweak. doing mine soon and will update my build thread accordingly. The clutch drags basically. See:

http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/2478-gearbox-i...

2. Rods. Not very common, I know of 1 instance, I know alot more owners. If you chuck 10psi+ through a 12.5:1 compression engine, you are asking for trouble. There are a few write-ups here:

http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/fa20-carnage...

https://www.revvolution.com/blog/2014/03/tearing-d...

http://dsportmag.com/the-tech/tomei-powered-dissec...

3. The standard tyres. Hilarious for about the first 5 mins. Swap out ASAP and enjoy a fun and predictable chassis, I currently run Rainsports, loads of good options out there.

4. Aftermarket parts. Most of the cars have them, don't be put off by DIY installations, as they are easy to work on, look for quality components, and worst case see if you can get the car in the air at an MOT station.

5. Rust. Not so much the bodies, but certainly things like droplinks and toe arms are pretty siezed on most older cars now, so if you are into DIY, make sure you have replacements if removing, or access to heat or both.

Seriously rust? Older...5yrs isn't old.

[JB!]

Sa Calobra said:

JB! said:

A few points to clear up, I've had mine since October, and done 5k, of which 2,500 has been touring miles...

1. The 2nd gear issue. Its a bd when cold. Looks to be clutch disengagement issues, not the clutch itself, the throw arm on the box has adjustment and lo and behold! Needs a tweak. doing mine soon and will update my build thread accordingly. The clutch drags basically. See:

http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/2478-gearbox-i...

2. Rods. Not very common, I know of 1 instance, I know alot more owners. If you chuck 10psi+ through a 12.5:1 compression engine, you are asking for trouble. There are a few write-ups here:

http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/fa20-carnage...

https://www.revvolution.com/blog/2014/03/tearing-d...

http://dsportmag.com/the-tech/tomei-powered-dissec...

3. The standard tyres. Hilarious for about the first 5 mins. Swap out ASAP and enjoy a fun and predictable chassis, I currently run Rainsports, loads of good options out there.

4. Aftermarket parts. Most of the cars have them, don't be put off by DIY installations, as they are easy to work on, look for quality components, and worst case see if you can get the car in the air at an MOT station.

5. Rust. Not so much the bodies, but certainly things like droplinks and toe arms are pretty siezed on most older cars now, so if you are into DIY, make sure you have replacements if removing, or access to heat or both.

Seriously rust? Older...5yrs isn't old.

On components, yep, like I said, not seen anyone with bodywork issues but the components on the underside can be an utter tt to get off.

I recently fitted coilovers and both the front drop links and rear toe arms were seized. They were soaked in penetrating fluid and wire brushed but nope. Ended up cutting them off and fitting new. Would imagine track rod arms would give you grief, rear drop links were surprisingly OK, but may be a bd to remove at the ball end...

20k on the car, 4 years old.

[Sa Calobra]

Wow.

[LordGrover]

Yet the garage who fitted my coilovers commented what a nice change it was to have everything come apart and no seizing, unlike the 10-20 year old japs they usually service/maintain/upgrade. Car was four years old and 40,000 miles-ish.

[JB!]

LordGrover said:

Yet the garage who fitted my coilovers commented what a nice change it was to have everything come apart and no seizing, unlike the 10-20 year old japs they usually service/maintain/upgrade. Car was four years old and 40,000 miles-ish.

You must be the odd one out! When i had a moan on the Driver club facebook most people had found the same issues when fitting coilovers!

[LordGrover]

Mine was exceptional in many ways.

[300bhp/ton]

JB! said:

On components, yep, like I said, not seen anyone with bodywork issues but the components on the underside can be an utter tt to get off.

I recently fitted coilovers and both the front drop links and rear toe arms were seized. They were soaked in penetrating fluid and wire brushed but nope. Ended up cutting them off and fitting new. Would imagine track rod arms would give you grief, rear drop links were surprisingly OK, but may be a bd to remove at the ball end...

20k on the car, 4 years old.

Do you live near the seaside or taken it on the beech or in the sea. I'd say that's pretty odd tbh, for any car of that age. Actually I'd not expect rusted and seized items like that on a 10 or even 15 year old car with over 100,000 miles on the clock.

4 years is new pretty much.

[JB!]

300bhp/ton said:

JB! said:

On components, yep, like I said, not seen anyone with bodywork issues but the components on the underside can be an utter tt to get off.

I recently fitted coilovers and both the front drop links and rear toe arms were seized. They were soaked in penetrating fluid and wire brushed but nope. Ended up cutting them off and fitting new. Would imagine track rod arms would give you grief, rear drop links were surprisingly OK, but may be a bd to remove at the ball end...

20k on the car, 4 years old.

Do you live near the seaside or taken it on the beech or in the sea. I'd say that's pretty odd tbh, for any car of that age. Actually I'd not expect rusted and seized items like that on a 10 or even 15 year old car with over 100,000 miles on the clock.

4 years is new pretty much.

Nope, but can't account for the previous owner.

Its purely a warning that if you buy one and intend on working on it yourself, spare bolts, spare consumable components may save the job.

[Sa Calobra]

300bhp/ton said:

Do you live near the seaside or taken it on the beech or in the sea. I'd say that's pretty odd tbh, for any car of that age. Actually I'd not expect rusted and seized items like that on a 10 or even 15 year old car with over 100,000 miles on the clock.

4 years is new pretty much.

Well he had to launch his boat off the slipway using his car everyweek...

[300bhp/ton]

Sa Calobra said:

Well he had to launch his boat off the slipway using his car everyweek...

You never know, hence why asking.

And there seems to be a few images via Google of these cars parked on beeches, so chances to come into contact with salt water could be high.



Or driving through salty seawater on a flooded coastal road.

[Flibble]

Mine had seized front drop link bolts also. It's partly due to the design which makes them ridiculously easy to round off if they are at all corroded.

[doogle83]

300bhp/ton said:

doogle83 said:

Carwow offered me 4.2% off, not massive but not to be sniffed at.

Slightly off topic. But how does Carwow work? Is it just looking at current U.K. Stock from various dealers. Or does it allow you to actually order a car and have free reign of the options list?

It's for brand new cars. You select the exact spec you want and then dealers get to put offers on the table that they'd be willing to sell at. You're then in direct contact with whichever dealer you prefer from the word go and can ask any questions about lead times etc.

[JB!]

Flibble said:

Mine had seized front drop link bolts also. It's partly due to the design which makes them ridiculously easy to round off if they are at all corroded.

the biggest rage inducer was the lack of spanner flats on the back side of the droplink.

Thankfully Corsa C ones are the same style and length and have flats on to make installation and removal easier.

Like I said, just a warning to folks to buy spares before attempting to take apart.

[daemon]

300bhp/ton said:

And there seems to be a few images via Google of these cars parked on beeches, so chances to come into contact with salt water could be high.

Or driving through salty seawater on a flooded coastal road.

Thats an astra convertible.

[venquessa]

Composite Guru said:

I'm swaying towards getting one of these but was a bit put off by the future value set by Toyota on the finance agreement.

I just visited a few dealers at the end of my 3 year lease on PCP. The GFV on my agreement was £10.5k. I was offered 13.5k straight away for it. Retail is around 15k for sub 30k miles 3 years. They are currently holding their trade in value because the second hand market for them is ripe with people tripping over themselves to own one but not willing to go PCP at 25-28k.

I'm still interested in a 2017 for various reasons, the Track mode on the VSC being one. But... the 2017 price for the "Pro" model is 28.5k so I'm refinancing the 10.5k for now as the finance is dropping considerably faster than the car value. Subaru's 2017 is 2 grand cheaper and the same spec as the Pro, granted Subaru's finance deals are rubbish in comparison with dealers using Black Horse of all people and something like 6.8% apr. However I'm hoping Toyota wise up on the price and drop a grand or two off it.

[venquessa]

JB! said:

1. The 2nd gear issue. Its a bd when cold. Looks to be clutch disengagement issues, not the clutch itself, the throw arm on the box has adjustment and lo and behold! Needs a tweak. doing mine soon and will update my build thread accordingly. The clutch drags basically. See:
http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/2478-gearbox-i...

I had a buzzing gear stick at high rpm, replaced under warranty without quibble. Then it started again. This time they uprated the mounting bushes and my 2nd gear issue has gone away. It's never shifted better, is now the advertised flick of the wrist change.

JB! said:

3. The standard tyres. Hilarious for about the first 5 mins. Swap out ASAP and enjoy a fun and predictable chassis, I currently run Rainsports, loads of good options out there.

I find the Primacies absolutely fine. Makes the car very frisky and lively. Tail flicks and rear wheel steering are available in 1st and 2nd anywhere you want. The only negative I would give them is in their total lack of progression in the wet. They go instantly from 100% grip to 0% grip without any communication or warning. This leads to some amusing ballet in the wet, even at 10mph in rush hour. Still the car laps it up as long as you are quick on the steering to straighten or oppo it.

They track fine once warmed up, very predictable and progressive in the dry.

There are many stories of people who fit stickier rubber and feel they destroyed the car's playfulness. PS3s for example will totally destroy the dry weather playfullness.

Oh and they have a 30k mile guarantee (in some locales anyway). Mine have been off the car over winter but have lasted 3 years (8 months of each year) and a track day.. they still have 4mm left on them.

Each to their own of course, but I think grippy rubber misses some of the point of the 86.

JB! said:

5. Rust. Not so much the bodies, but certainly things like droplinks and toe arms are pretty siezed on most older cars now, so if you are into DIY, make sure you have replacements if removing, or access to heat or both.

Quarter light window pillars rust apparently (where they touch the door). Still replaceable under warranty to 5 years I believe. Body rust is covered for 7 years. I have only seen one report of body rust. Some fixings and fastenings under the bonnet look a little orange now at 3 years, so I'd recommend 1. Not removing the green goo. 2. Spraying some ACF-50 in there once a year.

Edited by venquessa on Thursday 1st June 18:42

[venquessa]

A tip BTW. If you don't like the engine sound in the cabin (it's a taste thing). You can always plug the sound tube hole behind the clutch pedal under the carpet. A plastic wine bottle cork works well or you can by different ones from TRD for £35 to change the sound or mute it. Some prefer it sealed. I have not done mine yet, I don't mind the induction noise, though it can get old.