Well that was a "moment"
Discussion
Momentofmadness said:
Any metallurgists in the house to comment on the breakage?
Looks like there was a bit of corrosion in there already so maybe an old part that had crack developing that should have been picked up by the MOT?
Impossible for an MOT tester to see a crack developing at the point that this failed, it's completely hidden within the upright. Even if they had to removed the TRE the crack may not have been visible without proper crack testing kit. If it was caused by the TRE being loose in the upright that should have been spotted.Looks like there was a bit of corrosion in there already so maybe an old part that had crack developing that should have been picked up by the MOT?
Another possibility is that the taper on the balljoint doesn't match the taper in the upright, either due to being an incorrect part or badly manufactured. That would also apply bending stresses to the threaded part even with the nut done up tightly. That should be possible to check with the broken part and by inspecting the female taper in the upright for signs of fretting.
Edited by Mr2Mike on Thursday 27th April 08:19
MrJingles705 said:
Just saw this..... will give you a call.
Thanks for the text exchange MrJ. Chaps, to those of you who get frustrated with the car buying experience, this chap sold me the car 6 weeks ago. He's been so honest and humble as to offer to split the parts cost on the car with me (and pay for new pants!)
Of course, I've turned the offer down, this was a freak incident to my mind and caveat emptor applies and all that. And as I suspected, no cheapo parts used on the car, MrJingles only ever used the genuine Porsche ones or the OEM TRW.
Just thought anyone reading this should know, there are true gentleman out there selling cars privately, you just have to be lucky enough to find one.
eltax91 said:
Thanks for the text exchange MrJ.
Chaps, to those of you who get frustrated with the car buying experience, this chap sold me the car 6 weeks ago. He's been so honest and humble as to offer to split the parts cost on the car with me (and pay for new pants!)
Of course, I've turned the offer down, this was a freak incident to my mind and caveat emptor applies and all that. And as I suspected, no cheapo parts used on the car, MrJingles only ever used the genuine Porsche ones or the OEM TRW.
Just thought anyone reading this should know, there are true gentleman out there selling cars privately, you just have to be lucky enough to find one.
Good to hear, and nicely handled from both sides i'd sayChaps, to those of you who get frustrated with the car buying experience, this chap sold me the car 6 weeks ago. He's been so honest and humble as to offer to split the parts cost on the car with me (and pay for new pants!)
Of course, I've turned the offer down, this was a freak incident to my mind and caveat emptor applies and all that. And as I suspected, no cheapo parts used on the car, MrJingles only ever used the genuine Porsche ones or the OEM TRW.
Just thought anyone reading this should know, there are true gentleman out there selling cars privately, you just have to be lucky enough to find one.
Soooo, when are we hammering sausages into his lawn?
eltax91 said:
Thanks for the text exchange MrJ.
Chaps, to those of you who get frustrated with the car buying experience, this chap sold me the car 6 weeks ago. He's been so honest and humble as to offer to split the parts cost on the car with me (and pay for new pants!)
Of course, I've turned the offer down, this was a freak incident to my mind and caveat emptor applies and all that. And as I suspected, no cheapo parts used on the car, MrJingles only ever used the genuine Porsche ones or the OEM TRW.
Just thought anyone reading this should know, there are true gentleman out there selling cars privately, you just have to be lucky enough to find one.
Rubbish, sue him and bum his dog! Chaps, to those of you who get frustrated with the car buying experience, this chap sold me the car 6 weeks ago. He's been so honest and humble as to offer to split the parts cost on the car with me (and pay for new pants!)
Of course, I've turned the offer down, this was a freak incident to my mind and caveat emptor applies and all that. And as I suspected, no cheapo parts used on the car, MrJingles only ever used the genuine Porsche ones or the OEM TRW.
Just thought anyone reading this should know, there are true gentleman out there selling cars privately, you just have to be lucky enough to find one.
How refreshing to hear a decent, civilised and sensible poster rather than one trying to blame anyone and everybody for what is, as you say, just one of those things. I had an issue this week with a car I've bought recently; like yourself, put it down to bad luck and sorted it. Life is far easier when people are calm and collected about these things.
And I doff my hat to the chap who sold it to you for getting in touch.
Had the same thing happen as a result of a collision, land rover I was overtaking suddenly jumped out on to my left wing, I yanked the wheel left in order to stay on the road, there was a *crack*, I limped it up on to a bit of farm road ~20m up the road to see this:
. The right wheel was turned about ~5degrees left, the left aboout ~45degrees . Tie rod had sheared off in a similar manner to OP. Managed to limp it home about 4 miles away at ~20mph holding the steering wheel 90 degrees offcentre just dragging the left side wheel along.
. The right wheel was turned about ~5degrees left, the left aboout ~45degrees . Tie rod had sheared off in a similar manner to OP. Managed to limp it home about 4 miles away at ~20mph holding the steering wheel 90 degrees offcentre just dragging the left side wheel along. Edited by caelite on Saturday 29th April 00:06
Glad all's well that ends well, and this is one of those threads that shows why online communities are a good thing - nice work chaps 
PS - I bought my Panda 100hp privately from a thoroughly nice guy as well. Not on here, but a very good chap, genuine car and bike enthusiast, and a pleasure to deal with. They are out there.
PS - I bought my Panda 100hp privately from a thoroughly nice guy as well. Not on here, but a very good chap, genuine car and bike enthusiast, and a pleasure to deal with. They are out there.
Either (unknowingly fake) cheap metal or the joint's nut was over torqued during some previous owner work. A lot of German hardware is the 'stretch' use once affairs, and a lot of independents reuse old nuts/bolts. Engines have been dropping out of Golfs from dealers/indies reusing engine mount bolts after cambelt changes. It's a ticking time bomb.
Bit of an update here. I have a mate who works in aerospace engineering, who i gave the broken part to (along with the one from the other side for comparison). Now, I'm not mechanical genius, but he tells me he can "x-ray" the parts at work and try to ascertain what might have happened.
I saw him on the school run this morning and he has had a good luck at them. Now he stressed this was a best guess of the most likely scenario, and for those mechanical experts out there i apologise for my translations and layman's terms, if i get something wrong then it's likely chinese whispers.
There is evidence of damage/ rust on the taper part of the TRE, this should be totally clean (and indeed the other side is). He believes it's likely some dirt or debris got into the taper and the hole in the hub upon fitted, and cause it to not seat properly. This led to some slack in the joint, which meant that as the steering moved, the stress is transferred to the top of the taper where the threaded part starts.
On the break itself, there are striations each side of the eventual break, right across the circumference of the metal. This is where the movement has been, this theory is backed up by the fact the striations run "front to back" as the part would be positioned on the car, which is consistent with the "side to side" motion of the steering. The part has slowly but surely broken from both sides towards the middle, a hairline at a time and then eventually snapped as i used the breaks and transferred the weight forward.
So, there you go, not a great description by me, but i'm a mere normo and don't speak his industry language.
I saw him on the school run this morning and he has had a good luck at them. Now he stressed this was a best guess of the most likely scenario, and for those mechanical experts out there i apologise for my translations and layman's terms, if i get something wrong then it's likely chinese whispers.
There is evidence of damage/ rust on the taper part of the TRE, this should be totally clean (and indeed the other side is). He believes it's likely some dirt or debris got into the taper and the hole in the hub upon fitted, and cause it to not seat properly. This led to some slack in the joint, which meant that as the steering moved, the stress is transferred to the top of the taper where the threaded part starts.
On the break itself, there are striations each side of the eventual break, right across the circumference of the metal. This is where the movement has been, this theory is backed up by the fact the striations run "front to back" as the part would be positioned on the car, which is consistent with the "side to side" motion of the steering. The part has slowly but surely broken from both sides towards the middle, a hairline at a time and then eventually snapped as i used the breaks and transferred the weight forward.
So, there you go, not a great description by me, but i'm a mere normo and don't speak his industry language.
eltax91 said:
Bit of an update here. I have a mate who works in aerospace engineering, who i gave the broken part to (along with the one from the other side for comparison). Now, I'm not mechanical genius, but he tells me he can "x-ray" the parts at work and try to ascertain what might have happened.
I saw him on the school run this morning and he has had a good luck at them. Now he stressed this was a best guess of the most likely scenario, and for those mechanical experts out there i apologise for my translations and layman's terms, if i get something wrong then it's likely chinese whispers.
There is evidence of damage/ rust on the taper part of the TRE, this should be totally clean (and indeed the other side is). He believes it's likely some dirt or debris got into the taper and the hole in the hub upon fitted, and cause it to not seat properly. This led to some slack in the joint, which meant that as the steering moved, the stress is transferred to the top of the taper where the threaded part starts.
On the break itself, there are striations each side of the eventual break, right across the circumference of the metal. This is where the movement has been, this theory is backed up by the fact the striations run "front to back" as the part would be positioned on the car, which is consistent with the "side to side" motion of the steering. The part has slowly but surely broken from both sides towards the middle, a hairline at a time and then eventually snapped as i used the breaks and transferred the weight forward.
So, there you go, not a great description by me, but i'm a mere normo and don't speak his industry language.
I can follow that logic..... did you go back to the previous (to me) receipts? Not for sausage-in-lawn/dog-violating reasons, but more out of curiousity to see if my hunch was right.I saw him on the school run this morning and he has had a good luck at them. Now he stressed this was a best guess of the most likely scenario, and for those mechanical experts out there i apologise for my translations and layman's terms, if i get something wrong then it's likely chinese whispers.
There is evidence of damage/ rust on the taper part of the TRE, this should be totally clean (and indeed the other side is). He believes it's likely some dirt or debris got into the taper and the hole in the hub upon fitted, and cause it to not seat properly. This led to some slack in the joint, which meant that as the steering moved, the stress is transferred to the top of the taper where the threaded part starts.
On the break itself, there are striations each side of the eventual break, right across the circumference of the metal. This is where the movement has been, this theory is backed up by the fact the striations run "front to back" as the part would be positioned on the car, which is consistent with the "side to side" motion of the steering. The part has slowly but surely broken from both sides towards the middle, a hairline at a time and then eventually snapped as i used the breaks and transferred the weight forward.
So, there you go, not a great description by me, but i'm a mere normo and don't speak his industry language.
interesting topic.
I'd just like to say, both OP and Mr Jingles (including his now presumably starving dogs) are the very essence of what being a gentleman is all about.
Understanding that life happens, its not someones fault, there's no one to sue, and life moves on.
I doff my virtual hat to you both.
I'd just like to say, both OP and Mr Jingles (including his now presumably starving dogs) are the very essence of what being a gentleman is all about.
Understanding that life happens, its not someones fault, there's no one to sue, and life moves on.
I doff my virtual hat to you both.
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