Stud walls, CLS, 50x75 or 50x100? & distance between studs?

Stud walls, CLS, 50x75 or 50x100? & distance between studs?

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Discussion

bristolbaron

Original Poster:

4,820 posts

212 months

Tuesday 13th June 2017
quotequote all
I really must get around to starting a build thread for the new place, but in the mean time have a couple of questions..

The top floor is currently made up of 50x75mm stud walls at seemingly random intervals. As they were covered in lath & plaster there were no worries over plasterboard sizes!

Pretty much every wall is being moved, so a fresh start.

CLS seems to be the standard now for studwork. Do I replace everything in 38x89mm, or go with more 50x75 so I can reuse a load of what I have? I'm not against going for 50x100 either, for the price difference I like the idea of walls being as solid as possible!

I'm also trying to get my head around door frames.. Widths and depths. Do I stick at 400 centres and a frame will slot straight in between two or do i need to fit the studs around the frame?

Hopefully this all doesn't make me look completely inept! If the responce is a resounding 'get a bloke in' I'll consider it though!

Cheers

Baz

jules_s

4,287 posts

233 months

Tuesday 13th June 2017
quotequote all
Wood studs are yesteryear

All metal these days

bristolbaron

Original Poster:

4,820 posts

212 months

Tuesday 13th June 2017
quotequote all
Oh really? I hadn't even looked into metal, easier/harder to deal with? I'd imagine gettign a fram together could be easier, how about fixing plasterboard? Don't tell me that's old hat too?! biglaugh

V8RX7

26,868 posts

263 months

Tuesday 13th June 2017
quotequote all
I still use CLS.

I use the larger 3x2 (different co. sell different sizes) I haven't found a noticeable difference using 4x2 CLS (which I use if I'm extending a brick wall)

I use 400 centres (some use 600)

I like wide door openings so use 838 doors, 3mm all round plus 32mm frame = 908mm gap

jules_s

4,287 posts

233 months

Tuesday 13th June 2017
quotequote all
Yep

Easier, lighter, the Polish put them up quicker/cheaper etc etc wink

TBH I haven't seen a wood stud put up in 10+ years but I don't design domestic builds

Mojooo

12,720 posts

180 months

Tuesday 13th June 2017
quotequote all
I had both wood and CLS put into my house.

The more important factor is how thick you want the wall - mine are 75mm with insulation. I think 38mm would be a tad thin with insulation.

dmsims

6,523 posts

267 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
Nail it or screw ?

Alucidnation

16,810 posts

170 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
50x100 is a much better job and will provide good a good solid wall once the plasterboard is attached.

Saleen836

11,113 posts

209 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
dmsims said:
Nail it or screw ?
Screw!!
Unless you want nails popping once evertyhing is settled wink

21TonyK

11,530 posts

209 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
And make sure you stagger the board joints on the opposing sides of the wall.

dmsims

6,523 posts

267 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
Saleen836 said:
dmsims said:
Nail it or screw ?
Screw!!
Unless you want nails popping once evertyhing is settled wink
Thanks, every stud wall I've taken down has been nailed frown

Rosscow

8,768 posts

163 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
jules_s said:
Wood studs are yesteryear

All metal these days
Timber over metal for me!

And OP, thicker stud means you can put in thicker insulation which means warmer and quieter. Go with the 4" x 2".

Always nice when you can pick up a decent stud for fixing things to as well (pictures, shelves, etc.)

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

199 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
Metal is for speed and low cost, hence why so many new build use.

4x2 will give a more solid feel, and screwed rather than nailed.




bristolbaron

Original Poster:

4,820 posts

212 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
Thanks all.

I looked into metal last night and it does look great in terms of ease. As above though, not certain it would end up giving the same solid feel in a 30's residential property.

Will look at pricing up 50x100 and go from there.

olimain

949 posts

135 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
50x100 spaced at either 400 or 450 centres (depending on whether you're using 2400x1200 or 1800x900 plasterboard).

Eddieslofart

1,328 posts

83 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
bristolbaron said:
Thanks all.

I looked into metal last night and it does look great in terms of ease. As above though, not certain it would end up giving the same solid feel in a 30's residential property.

Will look at pricing up 50x100 and go from there.
Don't forget insulation.

dmsims

6,523 posts

267 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
Assuming 50x100 what size screws?

GrumpyTwig

3,354 posts

157 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
Having recently built some new internal stud walls I suppose one advantage of the metal stuff is it'll be arrow straight, wood tends to vary slightly as a natural material.

Not sure I'd want to use metal though.


Someone mentioned insulation, is celotex basically the best option?

V8RX7

26,868 posts

263 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
People put rockwool in there for "noise insulation" but if there is a door in the wall it's a complete waste of time.

I defy anyone to tell whether a studwork as been screwed or nailed together.

I haven't seen anyone nail boards on for over 10 yrs

plfrench

2,371 posts

268 months

Wednesday 14th June 2017
quotequote all
GrumpyTwig said:
Someone mentioned insulation, is celotex basically the best option?
No, whilst Celotex is great for thermal insulation, this isn't what you need for internal walls within a dwelling. Mineral wool insulation such as Isover APR1200 is the sort of material you need for acoustic performance.

With like for like stud and insulation spec, metal studs will give a better acoustic performance due to the smaller percentage of bridge. AcouStuds are even better as they break the straight line for acoustic transmission between one side of a partition and another. Better still use Resilient Bar to one or both sides of the partition.