Pain in hood part of hands, pins & needles in hands
Discussion
Ok I know the answer will be bike fit session but I don't have £100 spare at the moment.
I've just started road biking again (I commute 3 miles to work also already).
I descended cragg Vale in Calderdale on Saturday and the hood part of my hands ached like crazy with the front of the bike skipping and hopping around like crazy really denting my confidence.
On the flats my hands were numb and I experienced pins and needles.
What can I do as a opener?
The bike is a cheap 58cm Genesis Equilibrium 10 with Ultegra running gear, I slammed the stem mid ride to try and help too.
I'm 6ft2 with a monkey build.
I've just started road biking again (I commute 3 miles to work also already).
I descended cragg Vale in Calderdale on Saturday and the hood part of my hands ached like crazy with the front of the bike skipping and hopping around like crazy really denting my confidence.
On the flats my hands were numb and I experienced pins and needles.
What can I do as a opener?
The bike is a cheap 58cm Genesis Equilibrium 10 with Ultegra running gear, I slammed the stem mid ride to try and help too.
I'm 6ft2 with a monkey build.
1. Make sure you aren't placing too much weight on your hands, is your saddle pointed down at front?
2. Buy some decent gloves with thick padding, some gloves have none, others lots
3. Look at fitting some bar tape that will damper vibrations and fit some gel pads underneath
4. Hand strengthening exercises might help, the strength gripper things help, Yoga helped my hand strength increase lots as I did positions to hold all my body weight on my hands
5. Accept that long descents are hard on your hands, I went to Wales yesterday and my shoulders and hands ache more than my legs today from the long downhills.
Hope that helps, when I swapped form MTB to Road bikes years ago, my back twinged like mad at first, it was just my body just getting used to it
2. Buy some decent gloves with thick padding, some gloves have none, others lots
3. Look at fitting some bar tape that will damper vibrations and fit some gel pads underneath
4. Hand strengthening exercises might help, the strength gripper things help, Yoga helped my hand strength increase lots as I did positions to hold all my body weight on my hands
5. Accept that long descents are hard on your hands, I went to Wales yesterday and my shoulders and hands ache more than my legs today from the long downhills.
Hope that helps, when I swapped form MTB to Road bikes years ago, my back twinged like mad at first, it was just my body just getting used to it
Also, if the front of the bike is skipping and hopping around check that the headset isn't loose. This can cause a lot of vibration which won't help at all. Also check the front wheel bearings for play - try to rock the wheel from side to side to see if there's any movement.
Edited by TwilightJohnny on Monday 26th June 20:48
Sa Calobra said:
I had all the spacers under the stem so I swapped the spacers to drop the stem flat/flush to the headset.
Put them all back in, make sure the hoods are in the correct location and move the saddle forward 5mm. If that doesn't help, you may as already suggested, require a shorter stem.https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/...
Matt_N said:
You shouldn't be moving the saddle fore or aft to take account of reach issues, it's to set up your knee over pedal position, if you are comfortable in regards to legs / knees then leave the saddle as is.
I've had the saddle height spot on to stop hip rotation etc but I noticed the nose of the saddle was tipping down slightly. I'm not entirely happy with the saddle. It's one I found in the shed that I'd binned off the mtb; A WTB Thinline Silverado. So that's one area to sort too. I've measured the stem, it's only a 100mm!I'll take a pic and post.
Before measuring the stem I assumed it'd probably be a 120.
Edited by Sa Calobra on Tuesday 27th June 14:42
Interesting:
If your rear wheel is carrying 44kg and your front 36kg (a 55:45 weight distribution) and you’re running 25mm tyres, then reading from the graph tells you that you want about 90psi in the rear tyre and 70psi in the front.
http://road.cc/content/feature/180830-how-choose-y...
If your rear wheel is carrying 44kg and your front 36kg (a 55:45 weight distribution) and you’re running 25mm tyres, then reading from the graph tells you that you want about 90psi in the rear tyre and 70psi in the front.
http://road.cc/content/feature/180830-how-choose-y...
Sa Calobra said:
Interesting:
If your rear wheel is carrying 44kg and your front 36kg (a 55:45 weight distribution) and you’re running 25mm tyres, then reading from the graph tells you that you want about 90psi in the rear tyre and 70psi in the front.
http://road.cc/content/feature/180830-how-choose-y...
Interesting link, thanks If your rear wheel is carrying 44kg and your front 36kg (a 55:45 weight distribution) and you’re running 25mm tyres, then reading from the graph tells you that you want about 90psi in the rear tyre and 70psi in the front.
http://road.cc/content/feature/180830-how-choose-y...
I also suffer from time-to-time from pins and needles in my hands and have my pressures up to 100psi on both front and back..........
I'm going to have a play and hope it helps!
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff