Discussion
Hi folks,
Got my car inspected by a local classic restorer, fortunately the chassis isn't much worse than expected in that there is one small hole in one outrigger tube, two body mounts that need replaced and 3 or 4 suspension mounts - the rest is OK.
The benefit of buying a car that's lived down south!
So I want to save the chassis, protect it for future use, hence I'm thinking of getting it galvanised (if that's good enough for north sea rigs it should be good enough for central scotland weather!
The galvaniser has asked how much the chassis weighs... hmm, anyone know how much the S chassis weighs?
Also, the restorer quoted a significantly large number of hours for removing the body and then replacing it when the chassis comes back, seems a bit on the heavy side though maybe not, I don't really know... anyone give me an idea of the number of hours labour to remove the body? Then how many putting back on (which I guess will be more to take time to align everything right)?
Thanks,
Gary
Got my car inspected by a local classic restorer, fortunately the chassis isn't much worse than expected in that there is one small hole in one outrigger tube, two body mounts that need replaced and 3 or 4 suspension mounts - the rest is OK.
The benefit of buying a car that's lived down south!So I want to save the chassis, protect it for future use, hence I'm thinking of getting it galvanised (if that's good enough for north sea rigs it should be good enough for central scotland weather!
The galvaniser has asked how much the chassis weighs... hmm, anyone know how much the S chassis weighs?
Also, the restorer quoted a significantly large number of hours for removing the body and then replacing it when the chassis comes back, seems a bit on the heavy side though maybe not, I don't really know... anyone give me an idea of the number of hours labour to remove the body? Then how many putting back on (which I guess will be more to take time to align everything right)?
Thanks,
Gary
garypTVRS3 said:
Hi folks,
Got my car inspected by a local classic restorer, fortunately the chassis isn't much worse than expected in that there is one small hole in one outrigger tube, two body mounts that need replaced and 3 or 4 suspension mounts - the rest is OK. The benefit of buying a car that's lived down south!
So I want to save the chassis, protect it for future use, hence I'm thinking of getting it galvanised (if that's good enough for north sea rigs it should be good enough for central scotland weather!
The galvaniser has asked how much the chassis weighs... hmm, anyone know how much the S chassis weighs?
Also, the restorer quoted a significantly large number of hours for removing the body and then replacing it when the chassis comes back, seems a bit on the heavy side though maybe not, I don't really know... anyone give me an idea of the number of hours labour to remove the body? Then how many putting back on (which I guess will be more to take time to align everything right)?
Thanks,
Gary
Not sure where you are based but it would be worth calling Richard at Southways. Even if you are in the North it would be worthwhile using him. Southways give an excellent service and Richard is a top guy. People have travelled from mainland Europe to have a chassis refurbed by him. He treats vehicles as he would his own.Got my car inspected by a local classic restorer, fortunately the chassis isn't much worse than expected in that there is one small hole in one outrigger tube, two body mounts that need replaced and 3 or 4 suspension mounts - the rest is OK.
The benefit of buying a car that's lived down south!So I want to save the chassis, protect it for future use, hence I'm thinking of getting it galvanised (if that's good enough for north sea rigs it should be good enough for central scotland weather!
The galvaniser has asked how much the chassis weighs... hmm, anyone know how much the S chassis weighs?
Also, the restorer quoted a significantly large number of hours for removing the body and then replacing it when the chassis comes back, seems a bit on the heavy side though maybe not, I don't really know... anyone give me an idea of the number of hours labour to remove the body? Then how many putting back on (which I guess will be more to take time to align everything right)?
Thanks,
Gary
^^^ agree with above
Although if the chassis is showing that much corrosion with the body on it might be significantly worse when you lift it.
70kg give or take.
The chassis refurb is not the major part of the labour but I would expect £1k+ to lift and the same to replace.
Can't see the point of rustproofing the chassis any higher spec than paint/powdercoat unless you're going to use it in the winter as a daily.
If it's a Sunday car the new paint will last a lifetime, even in Scotland.
Although if the chassis is showing that much corrosion with the body on it might be significantly worse when you lift it.
70kg give or take.
The chassis refurb is not the major part of the labour but I would expect £1k+ to lift and the same to replace.
Can't see the point of rustproofing the chassis any higher spec than paint/powdercoat unless you're going to use it in the winter as a daily.
If it's a Sunday car the new paint will last a lifetime, even in Scotland.
The chassis isn't bad just needs a few wee bits here and there. I intend to keep her a good while hence want to make sure the chassis is done right and lasts. Galvanising only costs about £300 including shot blasting, no more than paint or powder coat so why not? Then the job is done once, no worries. 
If the outriggers are rusted on an S then there is a strong possibility it is also rusted down inside the lower rear swing arm mounting points.
To help you find where to look the arrow is pointing at one of the 8 mounting brackets welded to the 3" diameter lower tube. The rust is through the tube down inside the brackets.
If you want to dip galvanize the chassis you will have to drill 2 holes in each and every tube on the chassis so that they can vent when they go into the very hot (400ish degrees C) molten zinc. You also run the risk that the temperature could distort the chassis.
When we do a chassis we have it 'Hot Zinc Sprayed' which is a sprayed molten zinc using either a gas flame or electric arc process. The advantage is the heat is localized so does not need venting. The finish can also be powder coated or painted.
Steve
ETA
Reference cost of removing the body you need to be aware the body does not just lift off.
If you study the engine bay you will see that the body at floor level is narrower than the top rails of the chassis forming a 'dovetail'. This means the body cannot be simply lifted vertically it has to move backwards. It can't go backwards because of the near vertical mounts for the top of the coilovers. So, lift the back a little, move the body back a little, lift......repeat until the body has cleared the engine bay.
You will appreciate this can only be done with 6+ people to lift the body or some quite extensive tooling/lifting tackle.
If you are doing the job yourself then the body lift will only cost you burgers and beers but for a company to do it takes some hours and equipment.
If the company you have spoken to has not done the job before then I fear they may have underestimated the job.
To help you find where to look the arrow is pointing at one of the 8 mounting brackets welded to the 3" diameter lower tube. The rust is through the tube down inside the brackets.
If you want to dip galvanize the chassis you will have to drill 2 holes in each and every tube on the chassis so that they can vent when they go into the very hot (400ish degrees C) molten zinc. You also run the risk that the temperature could distort the chassis.
When we do a chassis we have it 'Hot Zinc Sprayed' which is a sprayed molten zinc using either a gas flame or electric arc process. The advantage is the heat is localized so does not need venting. The finish can also be powder coated or painted.
Steve
ETA
Reference cost of removing the body you need to be aware the body does not just lift off.
If you study the engine bay you will see that the body at floor level is narrower than the top rails of the chassis forming a 'dovetail'. This means the body cannot be simply lifted vertically it has to move backwards. It can't go backwards because of the near vertical mounts for the top of the coilovers. So, lift the back a little, move the body back a little, lift......repeat until the body has cleared the engine bay.
You will appreciate this can only be done with 6+ people to lift the body or some quite extensive tooling/lifting tackle.
If you are doing the job yourself then the body lift will only cost you burgers and beers but for a company to do it takes some hours and equipment.
If the company you have spoken to has not done the job before then I fear they may have underestimated the job.
Edited by Steve_D on Sunday 24th September 19:07
Disconnecting everything and lifting the GRP body off the chassis is not such a bad job and can be done in a day, or maximum in a weekend, if you take your time , like me.
Before the Zn dip, the major work will be to take off all of the suspension components and everything else which is fixed to the chassis - engine - transmission - ARB - cooling system - fuel supply/petrol tank - etc.*
Make sure the chassis is steel shot blasted, before any new coating is considered. After the shot blasting, you will see the real condition of the chassis.
Also, all of the removed suspension components will need the same treatment as the chassis, before you re-fit them to the car.
I used a 2 component, marine grade, epoxy coating on my chassis and I can agree that approx. 70 kg, is the total weight of the steel, without the added bits*, as described above.
Before the Zn dip, the major work will be to take off all of the suspension components and everything else which is fixed to the chassis - engine - transmission - ARB - cooling system - fuel supply/petrol tank - etc.*
Make sure the chassis is steel shot blasted, before any new coating is considered. After the shot blasting, you will see the real condition of the chassis.
Also, all of the removed suspension components will need the same treatment as the chassis, before you re-fit them to the car.
I used a 2 component, marine grade, epoxy coating on my chassis and I can agree that approx. 70 kg, is the total weight of the steel, without the added bits*, as described above.
Steve_D said:
If the company you have spoken to has not done the job before then I fear they may have underestimated the job.
Based on what they quoted they haven't underestimated! Could build a car from scratch in the hours they quoted! Edited by Steve_D on Sunday 24th September 19:07
The rust is on and around the front body supports, behind the front wheels, look like water traps...
Oldred_V8S said:
Not sure where you are based but it would be worth calling Richard at Southways. Even if you are in the North it would be worthwhile using him. Southways give an excellent service and Richard is a top guy. People have travelled from mainland Europe to have a chassis refurbed by him. He treats vehicles as he would his own.
Possibly Central Scotland? 
... How about a partial lift .... just to see what it looks like under there ?
http://andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/bodylift.html
http://andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/bodylift.html
TVRees said:
How about a partial lift .... just to see what it looks like under there ?
http://andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/bodylift.html
If you can see the outriggers need attention without the body lift, and given the mention of suspension points needing work, I think it is safe to assume that the chassis will need major work. If the repair is going to be done by a professional I think it is important to get it done by somebody has is familiar with TVR chassis repairs. I expect a local car restorer not familiar with TVR chassis repairs would need more time and money to do an equivalent job. The cost and hassle of transporting it to the TVR specialist is negligible compared to the scope of the work. The point of mentioning this is that it is wasted money to have a local specialist lift the body for inspection if they are not the people you will have doing the repairs.http://andrewc.org.uk/tvrgit/bodylift.html
If you lack the skills / facilities/ equipment & tools / spare time to do the job yourself, recommended TVR S chassis restoration specialists include: ( in no particular order )
Southways ( Kitchski & Stevie D )
Mat Smith Sportscars ( Mat Smith, obviously )
RT Racing ( Richard Thorpe )
David Gerald Sportscars ( Mike Luck )
Track V Road
Sportmotive ( Ian ??? )
Str8 Six ( Jason )
There are others....
Cheapest may not be the best value, but the most expensive may not do the best job either.
You pays yer money and take yer choice!
Southways ( Kitchski & Stevie D )
Mat Smith Sportscars ( Mat Smith, obviously
)RT Racing ( Richard Thorpe )
David Gerald Sportscars ( Mike Luck )
Track V Road
Sportmotive ( Ian ??? )
Str8 Six ( Jason )
There are others....
Cheapest may not be the best value, but the most expensive may not do the best job either.
You pays yer money and take yer choice!
Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 26th September 20:46
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